RainGoat

It looks much nicer with the rear bumper cover on - I really like the metallic charcoal & red recovery hooks. The trim matches up nicely with the fenders & running boards. Personally, I’d leave those low profile running boards on as well - taking them off pushes it back towards that unfinished look. In a lifetime with the truck, mostly at stock height & in CO, AZ & UT, I never found them problematic. Curious why you’d run your ATX14a with the hubs front hubs unlocked except maybe for a long highway trip. I know people quote mileage but the effect is minimal. Being able to run in AWD is one of the distinct advantages of that TF case. If you are unlikely to get stuck, having the open center also eliminates the front end plowing & makes the truck much more sure footed in wet, sand & snow. I’m putting manual hubs on just to make an in field CV change easier but I expect I’ll keep them locked most of the time - admittedly I live where it’s slippery, even on roads, most if the time. BTW, I see you’ve got the CO bumper. I’d recommend drilling 1/4” holes in the front lateral winch mount plate- you can get to it from below. If you don’t, it tends to pool water there all the time. I’ve chatted with Brandon about it & there may be a design change there in future versions. Curious to see how you hood mounted your HiLift. I think you’re the only one to ever do that on a R50.

The ARB OME HD are engineered springs from an excellent offroad manufacturer. I would argue that they are the top of the line spring for the truck. You will definitely have a more palatable ride. I would look at @02_Pathy / theblackpathfinder [iG] prior to his PTSO SFD for an optimal 2” lift build. That truck was just about perfect - his SFD is fun but was not necessary. Personally, I would try it without the spacer first. You might find you like a little rake - especially if it levels out when loaded. [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] bypassed his OEM cooler but we live in a temperate climate. He notes it can take a but to warm up when it’s cold out.

A good quality 1.5-2” Spring Lift is really all you need. I’ve driven my truck almost 18 years & 100K mikes. I have done most of the CO passes except Black Bear and I’ve been all over UT, AZ & CO. All of that in a largely stock truck. Skilled driving & line selection will get you very far. The last of the trial SFDs from Pines to Spines Offroad is sitting in my garage awaiting install; however, you honestly don’t NEED them, for me it’s an entertaining opportunity. I would look at @02_Pathy / theblackpathfinder [iG] prior to his PTSO SFD for an optimal 2” lift build. I would drive it like that for a year or two & then reassess. If you want it then, I expect it will likely be readily available, though it will probably cost more than the rest of a spring lift combined and is much more work to install. Put a good 2” lift together & hone your driving skills. You’ll have a great time, will be stopped by very little, and can then more adequately evaluate your need or desire for a SFD.

Ditto

Yeah, overall I think you’d be hard pressed to find many who “like” AC. The practices you mention & the shipping leave a bad taste. I tried to limit myself to one painful purchase as I couldn’t find some of the poly bushings elsewhere. I love that they are delivered in a package with the real cost of shipping on the outside so that you can know just how much they overcharged you. No reason to buy ARB OME from them at all. Personally, I’d buy from Desert Rat out of AZ. My local 4WheelParts manager matched them by discounting to essentially a “no tax” purchase.

Weekend Drive

Went out exploring last weekend!

That was my approach

Curious what you paid. As@Mr_Reverse said the seats have door side airbags, bottom heaters, and 6-way power adjustment with 2 driver memory.

I replaced the bellows because I’d bought them. Otherwise I really didn’t need anything more - probably didn’t need the strut bearing but I only want to do this once. The one thing I wish I’d had was the rubber isolators for the spring ends. @hawairsh has simply used cut hose for this purpose.

OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 $173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com

It’ll be a fun game to see if I spot it as R50s always catch my eye & yours is truly unique. I might just look into the vinyl - happy to take any pointers on YouTubes, articles you found useful & where you bought it (you should have my contact info in your PM). I’d like to do my central hood. If that goes well I might do my G’s diffuser & even roof. I also have thought about the fenders in a charcoal. Part of my worry was the creases so I’m glad to hear that’s fixable. Your Raptor application plan sounds good & should avoid the pitfalls I encountered. I like the 2K in theory & wanted it on the sliders. I’m planning on trying a different brand of 2K primer & paint I’m going to try on my SFD parts. I tried the spray paint U-Pol as I thought it would be easier - but it wasn’t. I have an hvlp gun but my only experience with it has been cleaning up the disaster my wife made with it while painting some shelving units. The 4Runner in my IG feed is a friend on Redmond Ridge. I helped him out his sliders on & was really impressed with how his Rustoleum textured turned out - and I spent over an hour with my face only inches from it. He’s since banged it up & spot repaired it - those touch ups are essentially impossible to identify. I changed over & used it on the T4R sliders & a temporary winter coat to protect my bumper. It’s also nice that you can get it at Home Depot for $6 instead of the ~$25 I think I paid for the Raptor. I still have 3 cans staring at me which makes me a little angry at the wasted $ until I figure a project for it. My main unhappiness was that it was laying down the texture but not filling the spaces between. I had started with just the steps & realized the fan applicator was going to be even worse on tubes & was going to require more than the 4 cans I allotted for the project which meant more time & money. To their credit, I contacted U-Pol & they confirmed the Rustoleum would apply fine over the 2K - obviously, just not as hard. You can see the texture differences in these photos - unfortunately I don’t have one of just the U-Pol on the detached steps with the grey primer underneath (I was too angry to document).

Yeah, I’m just a couple miles South of you. I’m not in a hurry so I’ll wait it out a bit. Would you mind posting or PMing me the contact info & what you paid?

I’ll be interested to see how your windshield holds up. Mine is intact but notably pitted - undoubtedly from all it’s days in the SW. I’d like to replace it but I’ve always figured a replacement could only be less water-tight and this truck has a decade or more of sitting outside in the PNW rain ahead of it. Did you get one with a diversity antenna like the OEM? Keep me in mind because if yours is doing well a year from now, I’ll likely use the same people you did. Thanks!

The handful of Pathy owners I know up here in the PNW were all deemed essential so we’ve not only been working but have all the kiddos at home plus the wife making ToDo lists as she’s stuck at home.

Wow, is that a green wrap? You will definitely stick out if I see you around town - I’m part of the infinite silver Pathfinder brigade. I’ve just wanted to wrap the center of my hood - but look at you! Impressive. Nice job on the spare tire carrier too! If you haven’t used the U-Pol 2K Raptor liner before, definitely start on the area you care about the least, it has a learning curve. Note that it sends out a vertical fan. I found it difficult to get complete coverage & maintain regularity in its texture. I started with it on my 4Runner sliders but ended up stopping after the steps & then coating it all with a textured Rustoleum.

Wow, that was quite the undertaking

[mention=41900]PathyDude17[/mention] videos are an invaluable addition to the R50 community. Solid info there. Read the LR Springs string as the general consensus is that they’re the way to go for the rear. Britpart ships those from England to the West Coast US over a weekend for ~$80 US for everything. 4x4 Parts / AC is expensive shipping for everybody. As noted, be sure you align the struts properly & make sure you either reuse the OEM top hat or use the proper top hat spacer on an aftermarket. If you’re doing the springs yourself, use one of the new compressors systems, they are much safer & can handle the heavy duty springs safely & with ease. As you’re in Australia, I’d put that extra cost towards the OMEs in front - they are the undisputed quality leader for the front (though you may need a spacer if you want a full 2”). KYB makes a well respected strut that is half the price of the OEM struts (though maybe not for you). You should also follow PCoA an Australian forum with a fair amount of R50 info, particularly on products you can get that we can’t - plus it will address some of your legal restrictions that we don’t have over here.

I thought it might be worthwhile to add something here. Personally, I find all the chaff on FB to be silly and I don’t really even follow there anymore. I have repeatedly advised them to ignore it. I have owned my truck since new and have used it primarily for offroad exploration for the majority of its lifetime – here in the PNW, but mostly in the SW (AZ, UT, CO). I intend to drive my truck for another decade at least. I actually have a 2018 Toyota 4Runner I own with my Mom but I prefer my Pathfinder for narrow PNW trails, its uniqueness and nostalgia. My truck has driven almost all the CO Passes (except Black Bear) and I’ve done several multi-day off road trips in places as diverse as Big Bend, the White Rim Trail and down the West Coast of Vancouver Island. All of that was done as a basically stock ’02 LE with Air Lifts and AT Tires. Pines to Spines (@TowndawgR50 &[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention]) has played a big part in my decision to keep my truck. I am a long term owner and look at modifications with an eye to well thought out design, safety, and long term durability. Also, while I have the capital to invest where I’d like, I’m frugal and generally commit to modifications only after long consideration and with an eye to value. It was these principles which led me to[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] and[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] in the first place. Anyone who reads the NPORA forum routinely will soon identify them as two individuals who give thoughtful consideration to their projects and are meticulous in their implementation. It was for these reasons that I eventually met the two of them and, ultimately, developed friendships based on shared values and respect. I think the most important attribute they bring to the table is their ability to look at their own work critically, decide it doesn’t meet their own standards, and go about rectifying their critiques in a thoughtful manner. It’s also worth noting that we kid around with[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] in the PNW group by calling him “Captain Safety”. I am continually impressed with the work Pines to Spines has done and their in depth consideration of usability, practicality, durability, and safety. I am now privileged to be in their inner circle so I’m likely to be a lucky recipient of their ingenuity and labors in any case; however, I think all those who truly want quality products for their R50 would be wise to look to them. The SFD project has proven their commitment. It is their willingness to be patient which has led to progressive improvements. [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] mentions a redesign but, in fact, I have overheard many little tweaks as they work their way to make the product better. For the two of them, it is in their character and a matter of personal pride rather than as means of income which they rush to market. I have several projects in the pipeline with them but I have patience as I know the length of time to fruition of those projects just results in a better product. I have already seen this several times in discussions regarding things like snorkels, bumpers, differentials, etc. Ultimately, we all gain by their passion. If you’re in a hurry, Pines to Spines may not be for you. If you want something safe, practical, well designed and durable, it’s worth the wait.

Tapatalk was cheap & easy to use. Plus it pulls all my different forums together in one place.

Honestly, the quality of the information is self-evident. Anybody who shuns the forum over FB clearly has chronic judgement issues. I’m not particularly mechanical but I can recognize a careful & thorough thought process. It’s a shame NPORA allows the FB to have the same name - it would be fine if it were different.

The sad fact is that adding a camera will just add something else they steal. In Seattle, when they stole my Maxima & broke into my Pathfinder in a locked garage, the police didn’t even want to see the video of the Ford Ranger they brought in with their tools.

Yeah, I can’t complain- mine are leftovers [mention=39745]stpickens[/mention] graciously gave me. I missed the one by the odometer and, a year later, I’ve been too lazy to go back & fix it - actually I really hate the process of pulling that speedometer surround out. It feels like you’re going to snap it. Quite honestly,@stpickens did that for me too.

She may be my Offroad Toy - but she’s still a work horse too. Quarantine Project time - she just swallows that stuff up. That weight doesn’t even begin to touch the LR 9448s

I did blue too but now I’m wonder if that was a great choice with all the recommendations against blue light at night. I’m not sure red would look as good & I can’t say I care for the green at all.