RainGoat

They make “front facing” cameras that avoid that problem- also avoid getting “lines” if you can. Post a pic of the mounted location & its view once you get the new wheels on. It also wouldn’t hurt to know what your mid fender & hub height are.

Hey, I’m still rockin’ stock tire size (& I’ve got the rear on 9448s awaiting the SFD up front). Actually, all of my IG photos this summer are with 29.5” tires. I’m not changing until spring of next year when my lift is complete (plus, I keep wondering if a KO3 might come out). Great work - I know how nice it feels to have that old worn out stock suspension replaced. @hawairish &@towndawgr50 are my mechanical gurus so I’d 2nd listening to any advice they send your way. Congratulations!!

If you are using a Nissan Top Hat then the spacer is already a part of it. If aftermarket make sure the spacer gets put in. Here is the compressor everybody is talking about. We used it with my ARB OME HD front springs & rear LR9228 springs. No problem - very stable & safe feeling. Strut Alignment The notches on the bottom spring seat and the top spring seat must be aligned as shown. Note that the side of the strut shown in the photo is the inboard (engine-facing) side. When reinstalling the struts, orient the "L" or "R" on the strut insulator (aka "top hat") so that the "L" lines up with the notches for the left strut, and the "R" lines up with the notches for the right strut -can’t get the photo to stick

That was my understanding as well

In the PNW it’s wet & slippery most of the time so I use the AWD almost as a default & 2WD on the rare dry days. Consequently, it didn’t seem like I was gaining much. Did you ever happen to put it in AWD while the front was unlocked - there’s a diversity of opinions on the result, from error light to catastrophe?

That’s very interesting to know. I thought it needed closer proximity. As an FYI, I once kept just my fob in my ‘93 Maxima SE so that I could grab stuff out of one vehicle & transfer it to another without going back up to the apartment for the other key. When my Maxima was stolen they unlocked & cleaned out the Path but I’m pretty sure it was the lack of chip that prevented them stealing it. Now I just keep a non-chipped key. It doesn’t take up much space & allows that convenience.

Look good! Also, consider if manual hubs will fit through the center bore. I think the Mile Marker are the narrowest. I don’t run manual hubs because I like the versatility of my All-Mode atx14a but it’s just something to be aware of before you buy.

Mine was actually getting a paint job on the bumper & front wheel wells which just happened to coincide with Halloween. It’s a shame you didn’t get pics because your truck’s costume sounds pretty cool.

As a former Kansan, I would consider Michigan a solid Midwestern State. What do you think@mjotrainbrain ?

Micah’s folks live up the street from me

When he’s in town@micahfelker lives right near me & we’re both on Seattle’s Eastside with@TowndawgR50

I didn’t know about it at the time, however, I would have felt the same way until 11/26/17. Mine had lost 5, it was #5 that did the trick. Several others have had similar results. I think we lost about 4 engines on NPORA alone 2018ish. Just doing my civic duty.

Did anyone else’s truck dress up for Halloween?

If we know ahead of time, I imagine as many as possible would be happy to meet up but there are a couple logistical things to consider. Most work mid week, @02_Pathy &@stpickens are in PDX & @grizzlypath is on the Peninsula plus March is definitely snow season in Washington & trail options would be limited. Just as an FYI, June - September (in reverse order) are usually the best months to visit the PNW.

Not just the notches - be very sure about the strut spacer placement on the top hat if you are not using OEM. That compressor recommended above has been used by several of us, is cheaper than having it done and is VERY stable & safe.@hawairish ,@R50JR & the entire PNW crew wholeheartedly recommend it.

I look forward to eventually seeing how those projects turn out. I intend to do the former as well & like the concept of the latter. You’re a little short on time to get it delivered at this point but the I would strongly recommend the new style spring compressors- they can be as little as $65 & have consensus support from all that have used them as both effective & safe. I would STRONGLY advocate doing your power valves ASAP. It is only a 2-3 hour job and doesn’t need a rented bay. Pay a shop if necessary. It can DESTROY your engine and make everything else you’ve done pointless & a waste of time & money. I would be prepared to find some screws already missing & needing to be replaced.

Yeah, Stioc’s truck for sale is kind of sad. [mention=1343]XPLORx4[/mention]’s Rubicon in an R50 is probably tough to beat.

I expect only[mention=1343]XPLORx4[/mention] & maybe Stioc have done anything like what you do with an R50. (Oh &@TheExBrit)

I’d be interested in how that works out long term. I used Raptor liner on our T4R sliders & have mixed feelings. I ultimately covered it with Rustoleum Texture in black. I corresponded with U-Pol prior to make sure that combo would work. The Raptor liner gives a nice course finish but it has a fan spray which is good for flat surfaces - not so good for sliders, racks, etc. The Rustoleum Texture has a nice fine grain, satin finish, hides blemishes & touches up both with ease & inexpensively ($5/can v $25 for the Raptor). When I recondition my Coastal offroad bumper, or perhaps for the tops of my own sliders, I’ll consider the Raptor again but I’ll likely still finish it off with the Rustoleum Textured.

Beautiful work, as always!

Alright, just watched that vid. First off, great to see you & the Pathy in action. I can see your frustration in that first section. I didn’t think the 2nd looked bad and you absolutely cake walked that descent at the end! Need a new truck - give me a break...[emoji3]

Does their “key in a box” mean that the immobilizer is essentially neutralized & functionally deactivated at all times? If so, you can have as many keys as needed. It’s easy to test. Cut a key for a couple bucks at Home Depot & try it. I have ones for just getting into the truck & occasionally the ignition has been turned on without the chip - it just coughs & dies. You put a key with a chip in & it starts by the 2nd try.

Blasphemy! A BIG NO on that!

Yeah, when you say “sacrifice”’ do you mean they took the chip out. The “key” is 3 parts: key, chip & fob. Key can be cut easily. Amazon fobs are easy to get & program. The chip is the rate limiter as described above. Make sure they didn’t just pitch your chip.