RainGoat

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Yeah, I expect we all have overloaded them as that’s a ridiculously light load. I pulled all my upper plastic hooks & tapped 1/4-20 into the sheet metal underneath. I basically only use bungees there to keep the load organized. Even with drawers, a platform or your excellent cargo frame, I expect we could use better anchors. It’s also why I’m an advocate of cam straps over ratchet straps. Both straps should have a slight check/retightening after the first 10-15” or if they get wet but ratchet straps allow you to apply far too much force - we’re not flatbeds, nothing on our trucks is probably rated for it. The barrier your internal cargo rack makes between the cargo area & your rear seats is probably the best safety measure one could have. I used to net the cargo area down on the tough roads if AZ, CO & UT but that wasn’t really weight bearing. (Of course I carried only lightweight backpacking type gear and didn’t have rear passengers back then)

I have Coastal Offroad’s bumper and I think it might be the best product currently produced; however, I intend to sell it & upgrade to a Pines to Spines Offroad version when that comes out. I’ve seen[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention]’s bracket’s & I originally met[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention], 2 years ago, specifically to talk about his thoughts on bumper design. As a combination product, it will be unbeatable. Several concerns they expressed years ago are not addressed in the Coastal version. I’m looking for a bombproof design where a lot of thought has gone into attachment, the forces at work on a bumper during different recovery situations, and the unique nature of the R50s unibody design. I think the process they’ve followed with the Swingates & the SFDs illustrates well that @PinestoSpines goal is a top notch product. They are taking their time, testing prototypes, and willing to delay production to adjust & tweak their design when something doesn’t measure up to their expectations.

The ceramic is supposed to have pretty good heat rejection. Most of the good manufacturers have data regarding that spec on their different product lines. As for heat, AC & AZ. When I lived in PHX ~2003-4, I never had any real issues with the AC. I can remember being in stop & go traffic around Anthem at 116*F & no discomfort. The truck was pretty new then so likely the AC was working at max efficiency. I don’t really remember being uncomfortable except if I was running short errands (opening the doors repeatedly) or occasionally in the Monsoon season (heat down ~100* but humidity up). It also helped that the truck sat under cover at home - in a parking garage, so at ambient temp but none of that direct radiant heat while stopped. AZ DOT says it’s as high as 140* within a foot of the tarmac & your body can lose a gallon of water in 30”.

Has anyone popped those tabs that hold the carpet in back in the cargo area. I’m really itching to redo my cargo area & feel like my last several trips I’ve dirtied it up more than I ever have before. I’d like to pull the carpet & use our little carpet cleaner on it & take the opportunity to explore all my anchoring points. For instance, I have those LATCH anchors back there - they’ve got to be decently anchored. Maybe I’ll put some D-Rings back there. Also, has anyone read anywhere if there’s an actual load rating on the cargo tie downs.

You non-U.S. guys & your diesels! You make us sick!!! (with envy that is)

FYI@ferrariowner123

To be fair, I knew it would be a great shot because I saw@zakzackzachary photo of the same spot.

Well,[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] had me take it just for you! BTW, I did run into one aftermarket which did have the spacer grafted on but I can’t remember which.

Just a couple points to consider. @ferrariowner installed my steering wheel controls with minimal difficulty using a ~$45 interface(Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface). I almost never used my steering wheel controls with the OEM radio. My “new” Pioneer AVH-X391BHS has the controls down the left/driver side, which is invaluable, nevertheless, these new radios have wimpy/mushy buttons & touchscreen “soft” buttons - all very difficult to use while driving. I found I immediately started using my steering controls all the time. We almost didn’t install mine & that would have been a total mistake.

Just note that@colinnwn &@TowndawgR50 both have ‘01s with 3.5 VQ Engines - a very different experience from the 3.3.

OEM struts have the spacer as part of the top hat. Most aftermarket strut sets have it as a separate spacer.

@ferrariowner123

We got a little dusty!

More electrical hijinks as I played with the idea of getting these awesome T4R cabin lights to work in our dome lights (with expert consultation with[mention=32880]ferrariowner123[/mention]). Not sure it’s going to work. I’ve used incandescent red, LED red & even IR controlled RGB LEDs but nothing comes close to these lights - a nice bright white & manually switchable to a red that is also bright. Part of my never-ending quest to repurpose Toyota & Jeep aftermarket parts. (BTW, I used the “small” pic posting - I don’t know why they’re so huge).

Interesting to know - I have been a little surprised I haven’t seen it. I personally saw it on a few Jeeps back in the early 2000s.

It worked okay in the early 2000s so I can’t imagine it isn’t better now. I would like “universal” wiring as I expect it might occasionally get taken out - though not particularly likely given my deliberate driving (especially as I’m usually solo).

By underneath, I mean back by the rear diff or even hitch, actually underneath the truck.

Toyota has cameras that mount within the front emblem.

I may do an undercarriage camera that points forward underneath. I’ve seen it done over a decade ago. It can help you with tricky tire placement or obstacle avoidance. A trick for those who go out remote & solo. You can even use it at night with proper rock light placement. I haven’t seen it recently, which seems kind of weird given the proliferation of cheap lights & cameras, but it was a thing back in the day.

Yeah, I still have to select my cameras. Wasn’t sure about the rear since I don’t have my swingate in yet. I sure would have liked it while up in the Cascades last week though. Also the undercarriage since my spotter is often 7 years old. I don’t think the side curtain airbags came until ‘03. You can see in my A-pillar shot that there’s nothing there but the tweeter. We put the dash cam wiring in but I had grabbed the wiring harness for my other dash cam I haven’t installed & it was a mini USB plug whereas the Pathy’s Cam needs a micro - Argh! Also, my roof console now rattles at 55-70mph so I’ll need to look at tightening it all up again & see if I can make it go away.

The beginnings of an extensive electrical project under the tutelage of Mr. Electric (@ferrariowner123). First step, “new” Pioneer AVH-X391BHS radio with USB port, line in, microphone, BlueTooth, and 2 camera ports (ultimately reverse & undercarriage cameras). We also addressed dash cam wiring, LED turn signal relay & removal of my old CB, it’s cable, and my old front auxiliary light wiring, as well as making room for a rear power panel. Special thanks to@ferrariowner123 without whom this would have been infinitely more difficult & who went the extra step of taking the new radio wiring & crafting a custom harness! Also, to my annoyance - as of March 2019, WAZE withdrew App support from Pioneer - REALLY annoying.

It’s a minor but nice touch - where did you find those? On another R50?

I don’t think the time of year is conducive to the NW & especially not ID or MT as that’s even more true there. Our mountains will still be snow bound. CO the same. UT can still be wet & cold that time of year - though not a dealbreaker (@02_Pathy was there about that time of year this year). Frankly, AZ is perfect that time of year as it’s when the Sonoran desert blooms. CA/TX would also be good but Big Bend is far away even if you live in TX.