RainGoat

They make USB outlets with voltage readers that simply plug into your U-Plug. Just one of dozens of examples; https://www.amazon.com/Palumma-Charger-Adapter-Display-Battery/dp/B0773BYS6P

Correct - I looked but couldn’t find your transmission

I wonder if the ticking might have been a loose power valve. They diagnosed that as lifters in mine.

Unknown. The bumper went on before the front suspension was lifted - not my plan but the PNW R50 group couldn’t resist mounting it when the bumper arrived & my sad front end was there looking at it. It actually needs to come off for significant touch up welding, grinding & painting as well as mounting the winch & lights. Even without the bumper, the front would still have been lower than the rear since we put the LR9448s on the rear in anticipation of the SFD. And by we, I mean it wouldn’t have been accomplished without the expertise of [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] for which I am immensely grateful! Suspension Both with Toyo Open Country A/TII 245/65R17 Lift s SFD Midfender F: D 33" P 33.5" R: D 37" P 38" PreLift (Original Stock OEM@106K miles & 17yrs) MidFender/HubCtr F: D 31.75"/14" P 31.75"/14" R: D 30.75"/14" P 30 7/8"/14"

The directions are for you to remove your bump stops - that said, I did not as I wanted them to still be there in the case of failure.

Heights on Stock Wheels (29.5”) No spacer though I believe @02_Pathy has a 1” spacer on the same setup without the heavy steel front bumper Post Lift with 97# bumper Midfender F: D 33" P 33.5" PreLift MidFender/HubCtr F: D 31.75"/14" P 31.75"/14"

This is what I put on; however, you can save quite a bit with KYB struts & they are generally very well regarded. You should get the OEM Strut Bearing - you do not need to get the spring seat or bellows & bump stop - most people reuse their own but I wanted to do this once & these seemed like parts worth replacing to me - though their OEM nature really bumps up the cost. ARB Old Man Emu Struts N145S(L) & N146[emoji2400] $210/@4WP/Desert Rat ARB Brake Line Clips OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 infinitipartsdeal.com ARB OME Heavy Load Spring (110-220#) [2928] 0.5" Lift $167@Desert Rat/4WP

Great write up! Pretty much my process but I have a question regarding the metal on metal contact. I’ve typically used the silicone brake grease that I use on my pins for this - mainly because it’s convenient since I already have it out. Doing my wife’s MDX recently, I noticed the Power Stop brake pads came with a silicone grease - though it was much more viscous & tacky than my silicone grease. I’ve also heard of using Anti-Seize on these metal-metal contacts though I’ve worried about the temps. I have molybdenum grease that I use on my trailer ball hitch (but it is a synthetic designed for calipers, CV joints, etc). I would be interested in your input on these 3 different lubrications as you clearly have alot of experience & have dedicated a fair amount of thought to the process.

This is basically a ditto of my response to another new member: You should search & review the lift threads. I think virtually everyone would agree on Landrover Springs for the rear (2 heights & 2 spring rates). Most people use Bilstein shocks for the rear, either 5100s or 5160/65s. The front has essentially 2 options: AC or ARB OME. The AC give you a full 2” lift but at the cost of a harsh ride. The OME are a superb ride but don’t lift as much (you’ll likely want a 1” spacer) & cost more. For struts the leaders are KYB & OME. Unfortunately, the OME cost 3x the KYB so it’s very reasonable to go with the KYB - no real complaints. For the strut bearing, use Nissan OME - too many problems with other brands. Make sure you read about & understand the top hat issues. I’d just reuse the OEM but if you go aftermarket, be sure you have the top hat spacer properly placed - history of many errors & failures there. Specific to you - the 225# spring rate LR springs will hold your cargo weight with no problem & still give a good road feel. Given that you’re a carpenter, maybe consider a cargo drawer system for your tools.

I can’t speak to deer impacts - other than a steel bumper is likely better than an OEM bumper. I would also consider the full grill protection option on that bumper if I was thinking deer. The real Achille’s heel is side pull snatches - best avoided.

Oops, I have no doubt you are correct. I was thinking VQ. Ignore my advice. I most definitely defer to@XPLORx4.

I would echo[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] completely. Good tires are #1 but decide if you’re going to lift first as you may want a bigger size. Personally I think sliders are the most important body protection as damage in your rocker panel is tough & expensive to repair. The OEM low profile running boards are pretty hardy though and offer some protection. You’ll find all the young guys take them off, while we older/family guys keep them for roof access - I don’t know of anybody with body damage who had them on, but I can think of 3-4 current members with damage that occurs while having them off). Finally, I agree that you will likely find auxiliary lighting to be a useful mod. Luckily, there are countless ways to do that & most are easy & inexpensive.

You’ve got to be careful following@TowndawgR50 Especially when he lets the dogs drive!

You should search & review the lift threads. I think virtually everyone would agree on Landrover Springs for the rear (2 heights & 2 spring rates). Most people use Bilstein shocks for the rear, either 5100s or 5160/65s. The front has essentially 2 options: AC or ARB OME. The AC give you a full 2” lift but at the cost of a harsh ride. The OME are a superb ride but don’t lift as much (you’ll likely want a 1” spacer) & cost more. For struts, the leaders are KYB & OME. Unfortunately, the OME cost 3x the KYB so it’s very reasonable to go with the KYB - no real complaints. For the strut bearing, use Nissan OME - too many problems with other brands. Make sure you read about & understand the top hat issues. I’d just reuse the OEM but if you go aftermarket, be sure you have the top hat spacer properly placed - history of many errors & failures there.

Definitely get the rear bypass while you’re at it - far too many people have had to deal with leaks there & it’s nearly impossible to do (only @02_Pathy has been able to do it in place)

I have the Coastal Offroad bumper. I would agree you have identified its weak point. Frankly, it’s the weak point of all aftermarket bumpers on the R50.[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] has been working on some brackets to bolster this attachment & ultimately I will switch to a bumper based on his &[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] bumper design for exactly these reasons. Personally, I also think the Coastal Offroad design is a little too focused on “high clearance “. Another 2cm of lip would have been useful for mounting forward lights on top. Also, it should have had Hi-Lift jack points cut into the design. All that said, I think it’s probably the best currently available bumper. If you get one, keep in touch as we can discuss mods to the design & how to work around some of its limitations. Also, as an FYI, you may decide you’ll want to rework your windshield washer fluid reservoir & air intake resonators as they show (common with most aftermarket bumpers). Look at my IG account & you’ll see. I plan to paint mine black for the interim but will ultimately rework.

Love your handle! [emoji3073]

Ha, that’s my feeling - though only 17 years. I only put the Coastal on because I ran across it second hand & my front end had been messed up from a collision for 2 1/2 years.

Hanging with@TowndawgR50

People seemed to like this one so I’ll put it in

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Yeah, I expect we all have overloaded them as that’s a ridiculously light load. I pulled all my upper plastic hooks & tapped 1/4-20 into the sheet metal underneath. I basically only use bungees there to keep the load organized. Even with drawers, a platform or your excellent cargo frame, I expect we could use better anchors. It’s also why I’m an advocate of cam straps over ratchet straps. Both straps should have a slight check/retightening after the first 10-15” or if they get wet but ratchet straps allow you to apply far too much force - we’re not flatbeds, nothing on our trucks is probably rated for it. The barrier your internal cargo rack makes between the cargo area & your rear seats is probably the best safety measure one could have. I used to net the cargo area down on the tough roads if AZ, CO & UT but that wasn’t really weight bearing. (Of course I carried only lightweight backpacking type gear and didn’t have rear passengers back then)

I have Coastal Offroad’s bumper and I think it might be the best product currently produced; however, I intend to sell it & upgrade to a Pines to Spines Offroad version when that comes out. I’ve seen[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention]’s bracket’s & I originally met[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention], 2 years ago, specifically to talk about his thoughts on bumper design. As a combination product, it will be unbeatable. Several concerns they expressed years ago are not addressed in the Coastal version. I’m looking for a bombproof design where a lot of thought has gone into attachment, the forces at work on a bumper during different recovery situations, and the unique nature of the R50s unibody design. I think the process they’ve followed with the Swingates & the SFDs illustrates well that @PinestoSpines goal is a top notch product. They are taking their time, testing prototypes, and willing to delay production to adjust & tweak their design when something doesn’t measure up to their expectations.

The ceramic is supposed to have pretty good heat rejection. Most of the good manufacturers have data regarding that spec on their different product lines. As for heat, AC & AZ. When I lived in PHX ~2003-4, I never had any real issues with the AC. I can remember being in stop & go traffic around Anthem at 116*F & no discomfort. The truck was pretty new then so likely the AC was working at max efficiency. I don’t really remember being uncomfortable except if I was running short errands (opening the doors repeatedly) or occasionally in the Monsoon season (heat down ~100* but humidity up). It also helped that the truck sat under cover at home - in a parking garage, so at ambient temp but none of that direct radiant heat while stopped. AZ DOT says it’s as high as 140* within a foot of the tarmac & your body can lose a gallon of water in 30”.

Has anyone popped those tabs that hold the carpet in back in the cargo area. I’m really itching to redo my cargo area & feel like my last several trips I’ve dirtied it up more than I ever have before. I’d like to pull the carpet & use our little carpet cleaner on it & take the opportunity to explore all my anchoring points. For instance, I have those LATCH anchors back there - they’ve got to be decently anchored. Maybe I’ll put some D-Rings back there. Also, has anyone read anywhere if there’s an actual load rating on the cargo tie downs.