RainGoat

WOW!! You do have ALOT of switches!

The O2 sensors are probably the most common failure on these trucks. Luckily, it’s a 15-30” fix. Unplug the old one up top, zip tie the new one to the old one’s line, drop the sensor from above, & once you’ve attached the new one below, clip off the ends of the old one. I’ve done it a handful of times. BTW, don’t forget Bank 1 is the passenger side on these trucks.

You are correct, I thought he recognized it or deduced it - Sherlock like!

I don’t know how he got that? I’m a native Kansas Citian & also grew up in Dallas. I’ve filled with gas many times there and even looked at doing some of my training there.

Ohh, I LOVE the LEGO wheels - truly a unique wheel & tough looking too!

Craigslist is usually pretty good for that

Now how did you figure that out? I’m even one of the people who kind of know Oke City. (You can put it in the PNW or our chat if you want)

Ditto on all of the above.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] gave me mechanical & psychologic counseling to get me through my Power Valve catastrophe. Given the CA Class action lawsuit (now expired & CA only anyway) plus the Altima TSB (& possibly Sentra TSBs), but no R50 TSB, I feel it’s safe to say that Nissan is not a reliable or trustworthy partner on this topic. I would probably use someone you trust or do it yourself. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

Welcome! Are from WA? If so, drop a line when you get back, we’ve got a great little PNW community up here. Those O2 sensors are probably the most common issue on that era R50 - luckily it doesn’t disable the vehicle. I’ve even cleared them & gone thousands of miles before it came on again. Just remember Bank 1 is Passenger side NOT Driver side like you’d think. You’ll find a great community here with expertise and a willingness to help. (Disclaimer, the NPORA FaceBook Group is not really affiliated & is a Wild West - lots of unreliable, crazy stuff goes on in that venue).

Welcome! Entertaining write up. What city are you in?

Where are located geographically?

Canadian R50s have their own variations, often different than the U.S. versions.

Ditto! I have lifted my whole rear end with a Hi-Lift in my hitch shackle. I have the OEM hitch which is significantly more robust than the aftermarket ones as it has extensions that extend up the unibody underneath. It was emergent/urgent & it was sketchy but I’ve done some of that kind of thing in non-automotive settings. I would NOT use the running boards as a jack point. I will consider my sliders once they are welded on but that would still be a last resort as there is significant risk of damage to the vehicle - either from the lift or from the Jack misbehaving & hitting the doors. I now have a steel front bumper & would consider lifting off that; however, I have reservations there as well - both stability if the jack & some lack of faith in how the bumper mounts to the unibody. You can use a Lift-mate to lift a wheel and help with building up or shoveling our with obstructions. With a wheel change you would then need to put something under the body & lower & remove the wheel - obviously not ideal. Another advantage of a Hi-Lift is acting as a come-along (basically a manual winch) for recovery or for moving obstacles. I carry my OEM scissor jack & a 5T bottle jack all the time. I’m looking at the Safe-Jack accessories for my bottle jack & I have a 1cm thick poly foot for the jacks by Reese. I also have had an ARB Bushranger exhaust jack for >15 years. It’s a pain to pack. I’ve never used it & I stopped bringing it. It’s been hanging in my garage 11 years. My Mom does usually pack hers but I don’t think she’s needed it. In 17 years, I think I’ve only lifted the truck 2-3 times at most - my primary reason for carrying the Hi-Lift was emergency extraction as I was typically remote & solo. Hi-Lifts are a pain to mount & sketchy to put up & down on your roof (I always fear losing control & smashing up my metal or popping a window) I generally consider jacks as insurance for emergencies & bad luck. With reliable tires and judicious driving you should hopefully never need one.

My info is just data aggregation mostly. I’ll defer to @02_Pathy &@R50JR as they’ve done it themselves. I saw it on the shop floor during the traumatic events of having to remove my otherwise pristine engine & put in a new one.

Ah, a silver Pathfinder in the NW, we’re all going to have a hard time making sure we get into the right trucks! But seriously, Welcome!

Ha ha ha ha ha ha !!

One smart trick was a guy who pushed each bolt into a cardboard template to keep track of what went where

Looks Great - the black wheels looks good to me. That OEM 6 spoke turns out nice in black Definitely think hard about the running boards. The kind you have are low profile & accent the truck nicely in my opinion. They are very stout & will actually protect your rocker panel to a significant degree. I know of several people who took theirs off only to suffer rocker &/or door damage as a result. They are also invaluable if you use your roof at all or take women or kids along as passengers. I actually own the RRO sliders but haven’t been in a rush to mount them as I find them usefull on a daily use basis.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1 Power Valve (Butterfly Valve) Screws on Intake Plenum They are power/swirl valves...the swirl valve actuator is what opens and closes them 6 butterfly valves in the upper manifold held in with 2 screws each tiny phillips screws, size and thread pattern is m3x.50 10mm length Remove each screw & Loctite red threadlocker=permanent 2-3hrs, just a lot of bits and pieces to take off/put back on page EM-10 for torque specs for all of the removed hardware, and EM-12 for the upper intake manifold bolts. Intake Manifold torque-all 12mm bolts and nuts at 20lbs. Gaskets (4) ordered from dealer 16175-4w000 (throttle body) 14033-4w000 (right side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010A*) 14033-4w010 (left side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010AA*) 14033-4w00A replaces 14032-4 (between lower intake plenum and intake manifold also called 14040E*) * (part numbers as shown on exploded view in the print-out given to me by dealership, dunno why they don't match the p/n on the packages... all gaskets fit perfect.) Altimas and Sentras TSB NTB05-058. Power Valve Butterfly Valve Screws 8 in Number Altima Part#14511-8J00B come with washers on them which are kind of a pain to remove but need to come off. Three Bond 1375B, Nissan Part#14511-8J01B.

Perfect - I was going to say, I only see One To Do on that list. People generally say it’s 2-3 hours labor. I also think it’s generic enough anybody could do it. Nissan May disassemble it & then refuse to put it back together without a costly part. A shop can replace the screws. I would consider getting the Altima screws & remove the washers & have them ready or grab some plus a butterfly plate or two from the JY. Power Valve Butterfly Valve Screws 8 in Number Altima Part#14511-8J00B they come with washers on them which are kind of a pain to remove but need to come off. Three Bond 1375B, Nissan Part#14511-8J01B.

That makes sense

The back of the diff has a mounting plate for I don’t know what that I’ve thought about sending a rigid arm off of to allow visualization of the rear diff as well or at least to have a good idea of what it would align with. You do realize, this means rock/undercarriage lights are next?

Home Depot has some decent 6’ cam straps $9 for 4. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6-ft-x-1-in-Locking-Tie-Down-4-Pack-FH0898/206802389 I put a 2” wide industrial velcro strip down my fire extinguisher & then have it vertically in the angle between the rear seat back & the driver’s side rear wheel well with something against it to prevent ejection upwards/backwards - though I’m not thrilled with it. I’ve looked at some hard mounts but at $40-60 I’m disinclined. There’s a less expensive way to hard mount it to the front seat bolts (by bracketeer) but I haven’t gotten around to it yet. Here’s the area behind that plastic. [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] & I were contemplating MOLLE rack mounting points but never really moved forward on that project yet. That mounting location below the center of the window looks most promising. I also highly recommend tapping the metric upper cargo retainers with 1/4-20 & putting in metal anchors.

Looks good. That undercarriage view looks pretty good. Do you know it angle of view? Also, can you take a pic of how & where you mounted it. Consider securing that load with Cam straps. Those bungees won’t prevent those tool boxes from becoming lethal projectiles. Also something more secure for that fire extinguisher.

We ended up not using the camber bolts on mine