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BamaQX402 last won the day on September 13 2020

BamaQX402 had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Infiniti QX4
  • Place of Residence
    Extreme rural Alabama
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Location
    LA (Lower Alabama)
  • Country
    United States

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  1. Yeah if you get to where a part of a system fails, that becomes your weak link (no pun intended) replacing only that part just exposes the next chink. Mine had death wobble when I bought it (I'm sure that's why it had been traded in) I started with rear links, just so I could drive, but then started gathering everything I needed for a complete front to rear suspension/steering rebuild. So then I decided whilst I'd have it all apart, just go ahead and lift it at the same time!
  2. Well dang it, with this last cold burst I've noticed the last few cold starts I'm getting that delayed 1-2 shift, not quite slipping, but something is up. It hasn't been giving any trouble, I did a drain and fill back in the summer. Just over 200,000 miles. Does my 02 3.5 have a similar trans as a 99 with the 3.3? There's one local. Or can my transfer case be added to a 2wd transmission? There's one of them local as well
  3. I guess I've narrowed it down to 2 choices, within $16 of each other; AVN 461 for $132 or Mile Marker 435 Supreme for $116 (I found a set of 435s listed for a Sentra for $108, but no info as to spline count) Anyone care to opine on the best choice?
  4. I guess I've narrowed it down to 2 choices, within $16 of each other; AVN 461 for $132 or Mile Marker 435 Supreme for $116 (I found a set of 435s listed for a Sentra for $108, but no info as to spline count) Anyone care to opine on the best choice?
  5. I don't use any special tools to install new races, I use the old race and a piece of pipe. Something I found out the hard way, there's a 3rd axle needle bearing in the back of the knuckle. Only available from the dealership for $60 pair. I changed mine without removing the seals, those are $120 a set.
  6. I just did mine, I was back and forth on which one to use. Ended up buying one from eBay for $17 and the gasket for $11. It was just as heavy as the OEM, very solid, no issues.
  7. I'm going on the assumption they're roached based on the amount of brass shavings found inside. I'll pony up for better ones at this point. I'm frugal (in that I'll buy a gallon for twice the price of a quart), I'm not scared to spend money on a better part. I had heard of folks having good luck with these, but it ain't me. We have very little in my area for junkyards. Because we have one that has 5-6 portable crushers that they take to all the others and crush everything, very sad. I work 12hr night shifts and just don't have "picking time" to search...
  8. Looking to buy a set of manual hubs for my 02 Qx4. I've wasted my money/time on the cheap ebay offerings that look like the Rugged Ridge, they only last a couple of months before they start grinding in free mode. Would like a decent used set of; OEM factory, Mile marker, Rugged Ridge, or Aisin. If anyone has an extra Set of 28 spline laying around... I have some trade fodder; extra set of new Nolothane panhard bushings, and a panhard drop bracket?? Thanks, Bama
  9. To revisit this & update; I've been running these locked. A couple of weeks ago I finally had the chance to rebuild my front end, everything new from the axles out + steering. Well I still have the noise. It had been so long that I didn't think to swap sides, so I did Monday and the noise followed to the drivers side, and that hub had a considerable amount of brass flakes in it. So I'll be shopping for some better manual locking hubs. Just wanted to warn folks about the $50 generic hubs from eBay. ** Anyone have an extra set they want to sell or trade?**
  10. So I bought the cheap one and installed it Monday. Seems well made, just as heavy as OE, and fit perfectly.
  11. Yeah I've got a pretty extensive stock pile, even 2 or 3 different thickness SS. For bends I'm religated to score with a cut off disc, bend, weld, grind. Weight has become a concern, my OME HD springs & SF 1" spacers didn't quite give me the lift I wanted. It's only 2 weeks old and I'm already thinking sub frame drop!
  12. Since I finished my lift 2 week ago "somebody" crunched the oil pan. So I'll be more focused on down & back before forward & up. Not exactly sure where I'll end up, no map or plan, just started by removing the tie down loops and transferring the mounting holes to pieces of steel I salvaged from a pallet jack. They hang down 2" and extend forward of the bumper cover 2". Today I cut a 1.5" angle to span and bolt to the cross member, 6 bolts; 2 from rack guard, and 4 more larger holes that weren't being used, still need to pick up those bolts. As soon as I have all 6 bolted I'll tack the angle to the brackets. This will be the rear attaching point of the receiver tube, also the start the skid plate off the back vertical part of the angle. No capability/ability/resources to weld aluminum, so everything will be steel from my "resource" pile. >So question time; for skids, does anyone make "wings" to connect the sides to the frame like the factory plastic splash guard? What thickness is recommended? I'm thinking 3/16" for the front, then thicker on the bottom. I think I'd like to reinforce the subframe cross member with a piece of 3x1/4" that can be drilled/tapped. Where is a good source for disirable SS low profile fasteners? I made my missing link from some 1" solid stock with 1/4" tabs, plan is to drill and tap it for the mid/rear section. Since I'll no longer have tie downs, will a shackle in the receiver suffice? Any advice or constructive criticism is greatly appreciated!
  13. $20 $50 $140??? I know you get what you pay for, but is it really that big a deal to need an oem pan, are they not all just a piece of stamped steel? Mine is crushed, all of a sudden since I lifted it 2 weeks ago, "no ones" driven it off road... I'm building something; bull/brushguard/receiver/skid plate type of system. Probably need to focus down and back before forward and up.
  14. I'm using 2 sets of bolt as well, but I'm confused, I think I got them maxed out in the wrong direction, as my angle is still pretty extreme. Got to replace an ABS sensor this week & I'll switch mine around. I made a panhard drop bracket, but didn't even think about end links, this is the 1st time I've heard it mentioned, do tell...

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