RainGoat

You need this kit to self-winch with a HiLift (I carried one for decades for the exact reason given). https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-ORK-Off-Road-Kit/dp/B00042KQ58 These are also handy https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-LM100-Jack-LM-100-Lift-Mate/dp/B00042KGWG There are off-brand ones that are probably fine too. You don’t need ARB strap, just a decent one. I’d probably go 30’ if you have the $ & space. You definitely need a full size spare. The roof’s a bitch. While they’re nice on back, you’re probably fine with it in it’s OEM location - I’ve done that for 18yrs. I tried the roof a bit but it was just too much of a PITA. I have a swingate but haven’t bothered to mount it yet - I really want it most for the Trasheroo.

Get yourself some inexpensive recovery boards like the X-Bulks (~$50), a decent recovery strap & a shackle receiver for your hitch. Those basics are a good place to start.

In the handful of us in the PNW, I think we’re up to 3 VQ3.5s with a rear main seal oil leak. Super PITA to fix & costly to have someone else do it.

Unfortunately, the 9004 dual filament bulb doesn’t lend itself to LEDs well. Most are blinding to oncoming drivers. For nearly 2 decades I’ve used PIAA H4/9004 Xtreme White (4150K) Headlights High/Low 60/55w. They’re their XTRA double wound high performance filaments, that’s why they say they’re equivalent to 135/125w. Since they’re Halogen they work perfectly in the OEM projectors. There are higher temp versions, 5,000K, 6,000K - I went 4,150K which is close to natural sunlight back in the day but I’d probably do 5,000K today. They are pricey but the quality is superb & mine lasted 50-75K despite the truck’s almost exclusive use on offroad trips & many of those years in ultra-harsh AZ. I tried some competitors in my sedan, including Philips & Sylvannia & they burned out in 1-2 years - the PIAA were much more cost effective in the long run.

@towndawgr50 & I harvested another R50 on its way to that junkyard in the sky. My 2nd this year. It’s sad how disposable these trucks are becoming but we really appreciate those of you offering to let us scavenge parts before they’re hauled away. (Photo by@TownDawgR50)

The “cabinetry” turned out super nice. I like the bottle opener mod. I also appreciate that you left a central sight line through the back. I don’t need much but it bugs the hell out of me when I have none. [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] do think that bracket will work in mine? It looks like my cables will be in the way BTW, I was just telling[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] how jealous I am of your sliders. I think that turned out great. I’d love to preserve the utility of my running boards but they’d be even better if they stuck out another inch. You’re truck is REALLY turning out nice. (And yes, I can see they did screw you with a blue LED)

Once you have some experience under your belt, there’s Anza Borrego & the Mojave Road

I’d look at cleaning & lubricating the hatch mechanism. It’s pretty easy to pull the rear hatch trim. Also, inspect the metal latch catch for damage - some get slowly worn away with vibration over time.

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That bumper turned out pretty nice. I really like the mesh grill. I have something similar planned for mine. I like the blue lights but you may want to check your state laws. In some states, blue lights are legally preserved for police only. And if that’s true in your state, the police are likely to know & enforce. I considered blue “day lights” on my G but decided not to as this was vaguely a problem here in WA.

I concur with [mention=1343]XPLORx4[/mention]. I’ve put >19g in my tank more times than I can count over the past 18 years. I believe I’ve even hit >20 a few times. That said, it’s probably not best practice for all the reasons mentioned by [mention=39745]stpickens[/mention]

I can confirm that a Wilco will NOT work with an OEM hitch because of the boxed end. You need a lengthy clearance. Otherwise it works great. I had one for

Yep, despite the otherwise pristine nature of the engine in a truck I bought new, it was screw#5 that cost me that engine.

That list looks right so far. Ditto on the OEM strut mount. Bilstein good choice. My list: OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 If you’re not a manual, you should get the power valves done as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

I believe[mention=37543]towndawgr50[/mention] may be fashioning another pair for me (or was I getting a used set of something from you[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention]?). I’ll need to look. I’ve got the LR 9448 but I haven’t noticed that I’ve got a problem yet.

I just did it with this one from Amazon Denso 234-4713 O2 Sensor(Downstream Right) $55.86($50.78+$5.08) Remember to use anti-seize You’ll have to pull the plastic engine cover to get to the green plug in on the rear passenger side of the engine - well, maybe not, but it’s alot easier.

I have & use the Rola Rack on my Pathy. I think it looks great & it’s very economical. It’s steel requires upkeep in a way that aluminum would not & its surprisingly tricky to use with tie downs - primarily because of it’s 1.5” thick perimeter bar which fits nothing. I’ve come to use soft loops on the bars themselves to make it work.

Coming from the part-time 4Runner world, flat racks can be surprisingly expensive. Prinsu & Frontrunner (less so Easy Awn) are the primary vendors of lateral running aluminum bars or slats. Rhino makes a longitudinal slat version that has nice wide slats & it reportedly quieter due to being longitudinal. T-nuts, including some that drop in & twist to lock let you put all kinds of stuff on these flat racks. Just check out Amazon & apply to standard mounts & you’ll avoid the outrageous fees for the proprietal mounts. Also, there is rubber strip you can pop into the slots if you want that for protection or friction. There are different series with different sizes for different applications so it’s useful to know which series you need. I couldn’t find a great description of it but Wikipedia touches on it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-slot_structural_framing

I think there are actually 3 versions of Load Bars plus the luggage bars that @hawarish mentioned. The 2002-4 are the strongest & most robust. For some reason, the 2001 & I presume other mid years have a system very similar to the 2002+ but just not quite as hefty. The earlier “low profile” load bars are notably weaker. There have been members who have had those fail on them. I looked at them in detail but was disappointed in their quality compared to my ‘02 LE. If you go that route, I’d consider using 3. The luggage bars test on the roof & are really more of a protection against bags or suit cases than a true load bearing bar.

Did you paint the LR springs white?

I’m upon Seattle’s Eastside - there are a number of us up here & a few more up in BC. When I went back & looked at your link it looked like it was advertising a 200# spring rate.

You have the backspacing right but I’m surprised there aren’t 16” options. The Dobinsons sound interesting & a new alternative to AC would be great for all the reasons you stated. I see they’re 200# spring rate. Where in OR are you? Great state to explore & some excellent Overlanding groups. You should follow@stpickens

Ha ha [mention=39321]mjotrainbrain[/mention] - that’s what [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] said - too urban. Those were just 2 spares from a set of 5th Gen TRD Off-Road Premium TakeOffs I picked up to split among my Mom & some T4R friends (Toyota is too cheap to include a 5th Alloy - it’s a steelie). The 8 Holes are from one such friend’s son’s ‘12 FJ. They were a kindly gift to me. By the end of next year I’ll probably be running both the 8Holes & the OEM 6 spokes with a set of new “Off-Road” tires on one & a set of street tire for Oct/Nov - April/May on the other. I just need to decide which is which - might do the 8Holes for on-season just to mix it up a bit. BTW both are 17” wheels & fit 265/70R17s up front- though the strut clearance was less than a finger. Of some amusement, each wheel represents another decade.

You know the Nissan Pathfinder R50 But have you seen the Nisyota FJ Finder Or the Toysan PathRunner I think my Nissan & Toyota DNA are starting to mix!?! Or at least my girl stepped in something!

Ugh! That’s terrible news. You can if course get one for cheaper at a JY - though it too will be older. Funny, I just stripped down an R50 and abandoned getting the door seals & didn’t think of the lock actuator - damn!