RainGoat

My understanding is that Discord grew out of gaming. Primarily for speed but also to create private gaming chat groups outside the purview of the game itself. Like all things, it has also been turned to for illicit activities. Fortunately, it is at least US based & is at least supposed to conform to US privacy laws (see Telegram for a counter example). Personally, I’d argue that like the train wreck that is NPORA FaceBook, if they aren’t serious & well behaved enough to use the forum, I’d question if your time is well spent there.

Yeah, that’s the beauty of the ATX14A - I use AWD almost all the time here in the PNW because it’s always slick with rain. In snow, sand, dirt & gravel it eliminates the understeer induced by locking the center diff in 4Hi & results in less “plowing” with the front end. It also eliminates the fishtailing I get with hard acceleration on slick turns in 2WD.

What year? My “lifter rattle” turned out to be the 5th power valve screw going & one of the butterfly valves coming loose. I’d start there - especially if you haven’t secured the power valves & it’s not a manual. If you do get down to lifters, it’s an incredibly complex & expensive repair. Also, I believe the part number changed late 2001 - this was confusing & hard to ferret out if it was truly a different part or not (alot of changes between 2000 & 2002 (essentially 3 slightly different engines exist in that time gap). http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

Interesting, I did not realize they had started making the equivalent of dual filament LEDs. I have DDM Tuning 50w Sabre 9005 in my 4Runner highs & they’re incredible. I might give this a shot though I think I’ll try & find something 5-600K, 6500K is just a tad too blue for me - though I note most of their competitors are 6500K as well.

Interesting, I did not realize they had started making the equivalent of dual filament LEDs. I have DDM Tuning 50w Sabre 9005 in my 4Runner highs & they’re incredible. I might give this a shot though I think I’ll try & find something 5-600K, 6500K is just a tad too blue for me - though I note most of their competitors are 6500K as well.

Is that some kind if dual LED to effect a High & a Low beam?

Is that some kind if dual LED to effect a High & a Low beam?

There are better resources than me on that kind of info.

It’s been a consensus on NPORA for some time now that you should probably get the OEM strut mount. There have been some failures of other brands & the importance of the part & difficulty switching it out warrant spending just a but extra for OEM on that part. My OEM parts list: Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2 infinitipartsdeal.com

They come up very infrequently. I’ve been trolling for a couple years since I let that one go & most have just been too far away. I also just missed the demo one at ExpoWest in 2018. Yeah, the RIGd is definitely better but the price is obscene. Bumpers for 4Runners/GXs go for $2,500 - $4,500 so they figure that’s what they’re competing against. One bonus is that you can move it to another vehicle in the future & you can unload it at 80%+ with ease. Personally, I’d get the HiLift & Rotopax mount - though those prices piss me off too. You can get much cheaper plate relocators & lighting.

You definitely need a full size spare. The roof’s a bitch. While they’re nice on back, you’re probably fine with it in it’s OEM location - I’ve done that for 18yrs. I tried the roof a bit but it was just too much of a PITA. I have a swingate but haven’t bothered to mount it yet - I really want it most for the Trasheroo. Honestly, while I find the price offensive, the Wilco Hitchgate (or more atrociously priced RIGd) work very well if they fit. The best part is that you can take it off when you’re not wheeling making hatch access easier for regular use & it’s way lighter than a bumper. If buying new, I’d get the high clearance but if used, the normal clearance would be fine. I had one with the HiLift & Rotopax mount plus a new HiLift Jack for $500 but was stupid enough to let it go since it didn’t fit in my Pathy OEM receiver (boxed end too short). I will buy that or a RIGd used for my 2018 4Runner. (BTW, there’s also the DeTours (https://detoursofmaine.com/ https://trail4runner.com/2019/05/04/detours-knucklebone-tire-carrier-review/ ) & non-mobile Curtis 31006 $70 You will have to relocate & light the plate with any of these options. Here’s way too much info: RIGd https://www.rigdsupply.com/products/ultraswing-hitch-carrier https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/267339-rigd-supply-ultraswing-tire-carrier.html https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/273089-rigid-ultraswing-5th-gen-4runner-anyone-using.html Wilco https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/263097-wilco-tire-hitch-mount.html https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/259162-wilco-hitchgate.html https://trail4runner.com/2020/07/14/wilco-hitchgate-solo-hi-clearance-5th-gen-4runner/

You need this kit to self-winch with a HiLift (I carried one for decades for the exact reason given). https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-ORK-Off-Road-Kit/dp/B00042KQ58 These are also handy https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-LM100-Jack-LM-100-Lift-Mate/dp/B00042KGWG There are off-brand ones that are probably fine too. You don’t need ARB strap, just a decent one. I’d probably go 30’ if you have the $ & space. You definitely need a full size spare. The roof’s a bitch. While they’re nice on back, you’re probably fine with it in it’s OEM location - I’ve done that for 18yrs. I tried the roof a bit but it was just too much of a PITA. I have a swingate but haven’t bothered to mount it yet - I really want it most for the Trasheroo.

Get yourself some inexpensive recovery boards like the X-Bulks (~$50), a decent recovery strap & a shackle receiver for your hitch. Those basics are a good place to start.

In the handful of us in the PNW, I think we’re up to 3 VQ3.5s with a rear main seal oil leak. Super PITA to fix & costly to have someone else do it.

Unfortunately, the 9004 dual filament bulb doesn’t lend itself to LEDs well. Most are blinding to oncoming drivers. For nearly 2 decades I’ve used PIAA H4/9004 Xtreme White (4150K) Headlights High/Low 60/55w. They’re their XTRA double wound high performance filaments, that’s why they say they’re equivalent to 135/125w. Since they’re Halogen they work perfectly in the OEM projectors. There are higher temp versions, 5,000K, 6,000K - I went 4,150K which is close to natural sunlight back in the day but I’d probably do 5,000K today. They are pricey but the quality is superb & mine lasted 50-75K despite the truck’s almost exclusive use on offroad trips & many of those years in ultra-harsh AZ. I tried some competitors in my sedan, including Philips & Sylvannia & they burned out in 1-2 years - the PIAA were much more cost effective in the long run.

@towndawgr50 & I harvested another R50 on its way to that junkyard in the sky. My 2nd this year. It’s sad how disposable these trucks are becoming but we really appreciate those of you offering to let us scavenge parts before they’re hauled away. (Photo by@TownDawgR50)

The “cabinetry” turned out super nice. I like the bottle opener mod. I also appreciate that you left a central sight line through the back. I don’t need much but it bugs the hell out of me when I have none. [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] do think that bracket will work in mine? It looks like my cables will be in the way BTW, I was just telling[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] how jealous I am of your sliders. I think that turned out great. I’d love to preserve the utility of my running boards but they’d be even better if they stuck out another inch. You’re truck is REALLY turning out nice. (And yes, I can see they did screw you with a blue LED)

Once you have some experience under your belt, there’s Anza Borrego & the Mojave Road

I’d look at cleaning & lubricating the hatch mechanism. It’s pretty easy to pull the rear hatch trim. Also, inspect the metal latch catch for damage - some get slowly worn away with vibration over time.

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That bumper turned out pretty nice. I really like the mesh grill. I have something similar planned for mine. I like the blue lights but you may want to check your state laws. In some states, blue lights are legally preserved for police only. And if that’s true in your state, the police are likely to know & enforce. I considered blue “day lights” on my G but decided not to as this was vaguely a problem here in WA.

I concur with [mention=1343]XPLORx4[/mention]. I’ve put >19g in my tank more times than I can count over the past 18 years. I believe I’ve even hit >20 a few times. That said, it’s probably not best practice for all the reasons mentioned by [mention=39745]stpickens[/mention]

I can confirm that a Wilco will NOT work with an OEM hitch because of the boxed end. You need a lengthy clearance. Otherwise it works great. I had one for

Yep, despite the otherwise pristine nature of the engine in a truck I bought new, it was screw#5 that cost me that engine.

That list looks right so far. Ditto on the OEM strut mount. Bilstein good choice. My list: OEM Replacement Parts Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2 If you’re not a manual, you should get the power valves done as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1