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Time to give this subforum some love... In a couple weeks, I will have owned my Pathfinder for 10 years. I bought it as a birthday present to myself, having traded in a 2008 Wrangler 2-door several months prior for an SUV that could actually fit two baby seats (unlike a 2-door Wrangler). My kids just turned 10 and 11 the other day, so I'd say we're way past that point. Time flies. I purchased the truck with just under 166K miles, and in another 400 miles it'll reach 200K. It just turn 20 yrs old. Some milestones here. You could say I've done a few things to the truck over the years. As it sits today, it's got front and rear air lockers plus 3.97:1 crawler gears, among other things. I've finally sorted a few gremlins that have plagued me for the last year-plus. Sold the bumpers a few months ago; need to build new ones. But right now, I've been hankering for something significant, and if I don't spill it here, it may never happen. So, here goes! I think it's time to SAS my truck. I've been stewing on this for a long while. In August 2021, I bought an incomplete SAS project from a guy that included a Dana 44 axle, a bunch of new parts including matching gears for both the D44 and H233B diffs, an Xterra TX10, and even the 2000 Frontier everything was destined for. I mainly bought the SAS parts for $1000, but the truck with a blown headgasket was only another $700 so I bought everything. The axle was rebuilt (sorta). The truck overall was disgusting, but at some point I at least considering repairing the truck and possibly completing the SAS on it. I literally gutted the interior to clean out layers of filth in the form of dog hair and caked-in dirt to clean everything, but in the end, I didn't need a 3rd truck and sold it to a buddy. But, here I am with all the SAS parts still...and then some. Since then, I have properly rebuilt the Dana and bought and sold a few other parts towards the project. I've not officially started it yet, but I plan to soon especially since a few suspension and steering parts are already due for repair and replacements. At a very high-level, these are my project goals/objectives: Keep costs low. To date, I'm already in $2500 in parts (factors parts bought and sold), and another $500 in tools/consumables. I expect to spend another $1000-$1500 in parts and tools, but also probably recoup another $1200 in parts. $5K seems like a reasonable cap. I am tracking all my transactions. I've also bought several parts either on clearance, or from others who've abandoned their SAS projects. Restore gearing. I swapped in 4.63s long ago, but as we know, this is the end of the line for R50 owners. SAS opens up gearing options, and this might be the number one reason for me. Keep the ride reasonable. I am not doing this to go overboard on lift or tire sizes. In fact, I expect and want to end up a little higher than where I am (currently about 5" of lift between OME HD and 3" SFD up front, and 9448s and 2" spacers in rear for 6" lift). I do not ever expect, nor want, to run more than 35" tires, and I have plenty of life left on my 33" tires. Build confidence in parts. I've never had trail failure with CVs, TREs, shocks, springs, bearings, hubs, etc., which is great. But...I'm also at my max comfort limit. Without any beefier steering and suspension part options available, it may just be a matter of time. The axle, suspension, and steering options I have in mind will give me a ton more confidence. Not regress on things. I expect everything I install will be better than what it's replacing, though probably the most debatable part might be my choice of leaf springs vs. IFS in terms of ride comfort. But going to a straight axle will inherently change the ride comfort, regardless of the suspension type chosen. Breakdown of components: Axle: The D44 I have is from a 1981 Jeep Wagoneer SJ. It's the "narrow-track" version with a WMS-WMS width of 60.75". According to my notes, I measured 62.25" WMS-WMS on my current stance, but can't recall if that includes the 3" worth of wheels spacers I use (I don't think it does). So, this should be pretty close, and if I have to run spacers again, no sweat. It's also a low-pinion axle; the high-pinion R200A is preferable here, but the slightly larger D44 gears might make it an even trade-off. Suspension: The axle is set up for spring-under-axle (SUA) using leaf springs, and that is the approach I plan to take. I mulled over all the other suspension types, and while something like a linked or radius arm setup seems great, it's simply out of budget. I've read no shortage of past and current comments about how dumb leaf springs are, how dumb they are on a truck/unibody with 4-link rear, how old-tech they are...blah blah blah. I'm not trying to ignore such advice and comments, but realistically, it's how I want to allocate my money and effort, and it aligns wonderfully with what I want out of a finished truck. That said, the SUA approach greatly simplifies a lot of things for me and that's why I like it. I plan to use OE leaf springs for the Wagoneer (I have new Dorman units). With an offset center pin, they should allow me to move the axle about 3" forward from the current driveline. Instead of shackles, I will use leaf spring sliders. Mounting everything will be a challenge. I intend to make a subframe that uses the existing subframe mount points and has the provisions for the front leaf eyelets. The rear sliders may be incorporated into a new or modified transmission crossmember. Plan to make everything from scratch to keep costs down...plus I have a CNC plasma table and small press brake, so there's that. I will also not do a traditional u-bolt setup to attach the axle to the leaves. Instead, planning to make a u-bolt eliminator kit to minimize parts hang-down under the perches. I'd love to do a RA or linked setup, but the decision alone instantly adds $1K-1.5K to the budget between joints, coils/coilovers, and material. There are savings here and there, but it's not significant. I've also considered going to a spring-over-axle (SOA) setup, but this will also greatly introduce costs, namely needing to buy a high-steer knuckle, potentially needing to "cut-and-turn the C's" to correct pinion and caster angles, and also adding about 5" more lift than what I want. Gearing: I will be going to 5.13 gears. On 33's, it'll be about -3% over-geared, but on 35's, it'll be about +1%. The axle originally came with 5.89's installed and in-box for the H233B, but I sold those. Too much for my needs. Differential: I already run an ARB in the R200A, so of course I'm locking this one. Axle came with a Spartan lunchbox locker, but I sold it and bought an ARB instead. In between, I bought an Auburn eLocker/LSD combo (LSD when it's not locked), but it arrived with all sorts of damage so I returned it. Hubs: Axle came with old Warn Premium hubs, but bought some new Mile Markers on the cheap from Amazon Warehouse. Warns will serve as backups. Brakes: The axle came with all new/rebuilt brake parts, which is great. They're beefy. However, this setup means defeating ABS braking since this is axle is 40+ years old. Many people won't care and just plan to delete or omit ABS, but I don't like defeating or ignoring systems, especially not considering how pleased I am with the braking performance on my truck with the rear discs. Plus, I think the speedometer factors vehicle speed by the wheel sensors, since there isn't a speedometer pinion on the t-case. To get around this, I'm going to mimic a setup a guy uses where he machines down the Dana hub to accept a tone ring and use Hummer H3 rotors and calipers on it. A new caliper bracket adds the provision for the wheel sensor, and it's a perfect a solution. In my case, I would do pretty much the same, except I will keep the R50 calipers. Comes to find out, an H3 rotor is the same thickness as the R50 front rotor, and the diameters are very similar (H3 315mm vs R50 300mm) to the point I can just move the caliper out a little. Also worth noting is that on the Dana hub setup, the rotor is mounted behind the hub, kind of like our R50 setup. In taking this approach, the rotor will install over the hub, which will increase the WMS a small amount (about 1/2") and make rotor changes easier. Steering: The axle came with a 3/4" Heim steering kit, which is pretty beefy. But, I didn't like that it was essentially going to be a straight bolt in a tapered hole on the knuckle. No way that won't wallow out in time, and it seems most people suggested modifying the knuckle to make it double-sheer. Instead, I'm going with a GM 1-ton tie rods. These are beefy, too, and I have less worries about shearing. I will have to ream out the knuckles and pitman to get things to work, but I have the reamer. The kit also included 1.5" OD x .25" wall DOM tubing, and although the previous owner already got the tie-rod to the perfect length for the setup, I'll need to cut off the ends to weld on new bungs for the GM setup. For the steering box, I'm planning to use a one from a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (WJ) 2wd. This will sit inside the chassis rail. Would've been nice to stick with Nissan and use a Frontier or Xterra gearbox, but those sit outside the their frames and I didn't feel like cutting through the wheel well. Fortunately, these WJs use metric fittings, so hopefully adapting the lines won't be difficult. Shocks: TBD. I have three pairs of shocks once fitted to R50s, including the last two longer sets from my own truck while lifted. I plan to use them if possible to keep costs down. Mounting them will be a challenge. Easiest approach would be making new plates that mount where the strut does, but I think it'll be too high up from the axle. I don't want to make the mounting tabs from it extend too low, but I have other ideas in mind. Subframe/Motor Mounts: This will be the most complicated part. Won't know my exact approach until the OE subframe and everything else is out. I also plan to make some new motor mounts using poly bushings I have around. ... Right now, I'm waiting for an engine support bar to get delivered sometime next week. I may start pulling things off the truck and get this going very soon.

A link to the video showing the problem Good morning everyone, I have this issue with my car where it will crank but it won’t start, the crank gets weaker on each try until it doesn’t crank at all. The battery is 2 years old and 1 month ago it has been sitting for 2 weeks straight with the radio turned on by mistake while I was somewhere else, until the car ran out of battery and I had to jump start it, it worked fine like that but today I have woken up to this issue, I just wanted to know if it seems like just a dead battery or something else could be the issue. I manually bleed the fuel using the fuel filter primer and there’s no air bubbles in the fuel, the spark plugs seem fine, the car always has a rough idle but I guess that’s because the IACV must be dirty and I’ll have to clean it, it usually starts on the second try.

2003 Pathfinder SE 4x4 3.5L AT w/ 227,000 mi. I bought this put about 150-200 miles on it the first two days I had it and otw home that second day owning it, it overheated, and poured coolant everywhere. This happened about a 1/4 from my driveway. Let engine cool and got a pull from a buddy to my driveway. I located hole, replaced radiator, checked thermostat in boiling water and it opened (have a new one otw), put everything back in except the plastic molding around fan, have no leaks, burped the system, and checked air filter. Filter clean, replaced, checked oil and was fine, started it. Was rough to start, but after a couple revs it idled out and did so perfectly for about 10 min. About that time I was finished cleaning some stuff up and was going to do a short drive through the neighborhood. Dang if it didn’t sputter a few times, rpms drop, and stalled. Was able to turn over and get started again but stalled again after running rough for maybe a couple minutes. Since it may start and run for less than a minute then sputters and stalls. Almost seems like it builds up pressure and locks up, stops getting fuel, but I don’t know. it sounds like the fuel pump is priming when I power the car on. Not overheating, oil checks out, not showing check engine light. Checked for intake leaks and everything looks great. New plugs and coils were replaced very recently. MAF? O2 sensor? Im in a bind and have not been mobile in two weeks therefore not working. Please help and provide me any ideas you have.

TL;DR at bottom before pic. Hey all, Been lurking here for a couple months reading up on guides and how-to's and looking at mods other people have done. Now it's my turn to post. My buddy's dad bought this 02 back in 2004 and drove the hell out of it. Mid-2018 he started having transmission problems. With 287k on it, he opted to just park it and he bought a new 4Runner. Well finally talked with him about it and I told him I'd buy it off of him. And that was that. Wouldn't stay running due to the idle air control valve, so replaced that and then test drove it hard and had no issues with the transmission. I didn't want to throw a transmission at it without confirming that's what it was. So I started doing other things to it. I bought some old 4Runner wheels with tires off craigslist for a few hundred dollars, great deal especially since the guy said the PO had just installed them before selling the 4Runner, and then the current owner put some aftermarket wheels and mud tires on, so I came out with tires with only 700 miles on them and date code is end of 2018. I installed some Warn hubs, a new alternator (bearing had started making a ton of noise and I screwed up reassembling the old alternator with the new bearings), new idler pulley, replaced the oil cooler o-ring and the rack boot on that side that the oil had deteriorated. Got some AC lift springs with Bilstein 33-185552 rear shocks and KYB 335032/335033 front struts and new strut bushings, also replaced the rear upper trailing arm bushings, they were absolutely wrecked haha. Also replaced all fluids in the truck except brake fluid (will probably do that next oil change). So after all of that and the looming question of "when the hell is this transmission going to fail" and driving 200 miles with no issues it finally bit the dust on me at 70 MPH cruising on the freeway heading home from my parents place after watching the Seahawks lose the divisional game. Felt like it dropped 4th gear and went into 3rd, was at 3500-4000 RPM. I needed gas anyway so I filled her up, started driving again and couldn't do much but crawl. Then it clunked and shifted fine a couple times. Luckily I was a couple miles from my work (I work at a car dealership as a technician). Unfortunately I didn't make it, after getting stopped at a light, it wouldn't shift out of first anymore and the metal on metal grinding noise coming from underneath me was enough to convince me to call for a tow. AAA got there and towed it to my work. I ordered up a transmission from a wrecking yard with 87k on it and bought the 1 year warranty on it. Now I'm just waiting for it to get here. TL;DR->> So here are my questions, I am already planning on replacing the internal filter on the 'new' transmission (I know its just a metal screen and doesn't do much but I'm planning on looking in the pan anyway), I am also planning on installing an aftermarket tranny cooler to bypass the factory one in the radiator (Hayden 678 if anyone is wondering). I was thinking if I should do the rear main seal as well, even though it looks like you are supposed to remove the oil pan, are you able to just add liquid gasket to the bottom of the seal retainer and call it good, or is it an actual fitment issue that is blocking you from replacing the RMS without dropping the pan? Also when I did my ATF change I used Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. Do you guys recommend that or should I do a different fluid with the new transmission? Anything else you guys recommend I rock out when doing the transmission? Thanks! Jack

First time posting here. As the title implies, I have a stock ‘03 pathfinder and I’m looking to give it a slight lift and bigger tires. I’m thinking of getting the Rocky-Road OME ‘96-‘04 heavy duty lift kit with struts (One question about this kit, are the rear springs heavy duty as well? Doesn’t specify in the description). https://rocky-road.com/shop/nissan-pathfinder-lift-kit-1996-2004/ What size tires would fit with this kit that wouldn’t rub? I was leaning toward Goodyear Wrangler Ultraterrain 265/70 R16 https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/goodyear-wrangler-ultraterrain-at/p/44194#treadwell-data Im also looking at picking up Warn manual hubs https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-manual-hubs-by-warn-1996-04-28-spline6-cyl-p-60143.html Thinking of making my own missing link with square steel tubing and of course, a NPORA sticker https://www.pathmakerproductions.com/shop/npora-club-r50f-decal/ am I missing anything? Any help would be appreciated.

Hey everyone, Hoping to hit the right perspective with this post, admins please pin it/contact me if any questions arise. I've been posting my R50 products on FB groups, and many have recommended that I post on R50 FORUM groups as well. Hoping to bring some new products, as our R50 has been well overlooked by the aftermarket manufacturer's community. I build various custom products for overland/off-road market, many of my projects can be found on my Youtube channel (BudNixon) For now, these are the products that I've got that many have found to be very useful. Many are produced by me directly, some are outsourced to a local laser shop for batch production if needed. DM me on any social media for questions - either by Instagram/Youtube/Facebook Thanks to all in advance for your support *Admin please pin post if possible R50 Accessory Molle Panels Rear Quarter Interior Panel (5 mounting tabs included) $85/ea or $150/pair USD plus S&H Rear Glass Hatch Panel mounts directly with your factory hardware $300 plus S&H Rear Quarter Exterior Panel (2 upper mounting brackets included) $150/ea or $250/pair USD plus S&H Recommended hardware kits are $50/each side *Kit includes necessary hardware to attach the panels to glass and roof rack DM me for any questions, I do my best to reply as soon as possible. Payment via CashApp/Venmo or PayPal (transfer fees apply unless sent via gift option) install videos on my Youtube - user - BudNixon (don’t forget to subscribe for updates) PS. Everyone's support is much appreciated, as this provides for my family as well as funds too bring other possibilities of product into R50 community.

I apologize up front because I don’t know anything. I had my 2001 R50 SE 4WD lifted 2.5” with spacers at a tire shop. Now they’re telling me they can’t find rear shocks for it. That can’t be right? I’ve looked through the forums and I don’t know enough to know what I’m reading. The truck belonged to my brother in law and he was going to trick it out before he died last year. He was a car guy. I’m not. Wife and I are fixing it up to honor his memory. Any help is really appreciated!

I've been researching what shocks to get for my 4" lifted QX4 and I've settled on the 5165 but I'm not sure what bushings i need to fit into it. I read in some posts that it is a necessary step. And its understandable of course since the bushings are unsupported sizes for the r50. Is there a part number anyone could provide me for 5/8 bushings that fit the 5165 25-261400's? I saw that Jax99 ran that model. Also are there any inconveniences or tradeoffs anyone experiences from running the 5165s with the external reservoir? Things like whether or not the tube rubs the tire. My front end is spacer lifted 2.5" and my rear has LR 9448/9449 coils providing 4" of lift. I had looked at the 5165 25-187748 because it has a 17.93" compressed length which is very close to some 5125's (33-185569) I've seen some people running that have a 17.91" compressed length (with 11.8" travel). However the 25-187748 5165 has 17.93" compressed length AND 13.1" of travel. Which is quite an upgrade. Not to mention both of these shocks use 5/8 bushings for both top and bottom. Is there something I'm missing on why people aren't using the 25-187748 5165's? I saw one or two posts about people using the 25-261400's. Those come stock with 12mm eyes. To me at least it doesn't quite add up on why people would buy shocks that have incorrectly sized bushings that they have to switch, over just getting a model that has 5/8 eyes to start that, (to my knowledge) work on the r50 out of the box. But there may be something I'm not aware of. The way I see it, the 33-185569's seem objectively better due to the higher travel. And the fact that it has the same mounting length as other shocks I've seen r50 owners run means i know that the length is supported. And the 5/8 fitting seems perfect as I wouldn't have to switch the eye out. This is the parts+size chart I used - https://www.shockwarehouse.com/pages/bilstein-b8-series-measurements Sorry if this is a big information dump and a lot to ask but any info helps. I appreciate anything. Thanks in advance

Hey team, I have a 99 Infiniti QX4, 4x4 w/ electronic transfer case. So for about two months I've had an intermittent "hissing" sound come from the under the dash, near the brake pedal during cold starts and occasionally while driving. The sound goes away as soon as the brake pedal is pressed lightly. The sound sometimes is heard while driving (but much less often than on the cold start), and will also go away when the brake pedal is pressed lightly. After reading a few forum threads, it sounds like there is a potential vacuum leak in the Brake Booster and/or valve nearby the brake booster, or that the booster is starting to fail. All the forums I came across did not have conclusive threads as to what fixed the issue so here I am asking you all what I should check first and if you all have any recommendations. Brake function has not changed since I began hearing this sound, the brake pedal seems to work the same as it did before with no loss of braking power or pedal play changes. Please let me know what you think! All information is appreciated and accepted. Thanks team!

A bit of a long shot here BUT anyone happen to have extra r50's/ parts laying around? looking for trunk hinges for my 2004 Pathfinder. I have tried looking online and calling several body shops but they seem to be impossible to find. Any help/ recommendations would be greatly appreciated!! thanks

So, I'm finally getting around to start planning the build more and pricing materials out. A few nights ago I was out offroad and I ripped my front bumper off (whoops) so now its kick started my project of fabing an offroad worthy bumper. Its also lead me to wonder what I'll need to do the SFD (sub-frame drop) so I was hoping someone would be able to give me a bit of instruction? Maybe tell me where to find the mounts lol and better yet, show me their builds and SFD. Thanks in advance friends, can't wait to get my girl looking like the beast she is. (I tried to attach an image of what she's looking like right now but it says the file is too big?)

Thought I'd put up a build thread for my 2003 Chilkoot Edition Pathfinder. I'll be posting info and photos of my build as well as questions I have regarding R50 builds etc. Just to give a little back story, my Pathfinder was purchased from a second owner. The guy said he was planning to turn it into an off-road capable rig but with Covid-19 decided against it. When I picked it up, it had around 220,000 kms on it (located in Vancouver, CA). I took it to a local Nissan dealer, North Vancouver Nissan, to get it looked at and everything seemed to be running great. They put some new CV boots on it and changed the fluids and I was good to go... Until about a month in when the engine started to run super erratically and would start rough. Took it back to the dealer after taking out and cleaning the throttle body (which didn't help). Dealer thought it needed a new throttle body, then a new MAF and then a new ECU. All of which didn't help. Finally, they recommend I replace the engine. I begrudgingly said yes as I love the truck and wanted it running so I did the engine swap. Now she runs great, "New" engine has 130,000 kms on it and I'm starting to put some mods into it. The engine swap ran me about $6k so needless to say this may be becoming the most expensive R50 build in history. Tomorrow I'll be putting the SF Creation 2" spacer lift on it and upgrading the tires to Falken Wildpeak 265/70r16. Keeping the stock suspension and wheels for now, will probably upgrade in the summer to aftermarket wheels with the correct offset for 3.75" backspacing but this will do for the time being! Excited to share the lift and the build as I go. Here's a pic of everything stock. Will post the lift tomorrow. Cheers

Cb radio, stock except for wheels are from the 1999-2001 model.

Hey all, I've got a 2001 Pathy SE (RWD). I will do a 2in lift. The one plus to rwd is that i dont have to mess with cv joints. I have been talking with pathydude17 about my build list below. KYB STRUTS - https://www.shocksurplus.com/products/kyb-excel-g-oem-strut-front-pair-fits-2001-nissan-pathfinder Front Coils- https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981165-pathfinder-front-lift-coils.html Rear Coils- NRC9447 LR coils https://www.lrdirect.com/product.php?productid=28608&cat=413172&page=1 Shocks (bilstein 5100 [33-185552]) https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/bilstein-5100-series-shock-absorber-33-185552/_/R-BBGL-33-185552 or https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/bilstein-5100-series-shock-absorber-33-186009/_/R-BBGL-33-186009 (this one has a 12mm mount same as stock r50 mounts) (Camber kit) - rockauto pt#89056267 0r https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CB2GOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502505&cc=1432945&jsn=898 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4490748&cc=1432945&jsn=894 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1028512&cc=1432945&jsn=902 The shocks have 26'' of extended travel, doing this so I dont have to extend my brake lines. If you want a longer shock (29) here are the links: (BRAKE LINE) https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-18J1473-Professional-Hydraulic-Assembly/dp/B000C9G0O4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=2000+frontier+rear+brake+line&qid=1577944626&replacementKeywords=rear+brake+line&sr=8-1&vehicle=2000-67-883------------&vehicleName=2000+Nissan+Frontier&linkCode=sl1&tag=tylersmith0a-20&linkId=9c53e63130f80bea521fddc0a2666067&language=en_US (LONGER 5100 shock) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FU6I6G?pf_rd_r=ZDSDNW52N6KC2VBQZWJV&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee GOOGLE DOCS with the links: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1EW3HZ7SSGSIaT4RBRRrkRrceZTYH2maWGEopqBGLRN0/edit?usp=sharing My current issue is that I do not know what the exact bolts& parts are needed for the rear shocks. If anyone has the exact mounting part specs, that would be a great help. Besides these, I am not sure what else I need for the lift, please let me know what else is needed. I plan to slowly start doing the upgrades over the end of the year to next year. Im first gonna change the brakes & radiator hoses. FYI the pathy has been in my family since new. Rust free and it just hit a trail for the first time over the weekend. It has 137,xxx miles and it runs smooth except it tends to get hot with elevation. Check out my ig: @irvine.r50 for build updates & trail stuff

Hi to all the NPORA members, this is my first post. I have a new dashboard light that seems to be the tire carrier warning light (next to door ajar). To clarify, I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder LE, that does not have a tire carrier fitted. I tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it immediately to no avail. I also tried disconnecting it for 5-10 minutes and starting the engine, to no avail. I’m located in Houston and it has been raining very heavily recently and my car was in the driveway. The light was on yesterday night, very dimly, but it turned off and I didn’t see it again until today when I had already been driving around town. It came on after a bit of a burnout in the slick road. I was in 2wd mode and had just switched from the AUTO mode, but like I said I had been driving it last night and didn’t slip the wheels or anything and the light was on. I was driving in the AUTO mode last night, but the light was on dimly. Today when it came on it was on dimly but then became fully lit when I got to my destination and is now fully lit and won’t turn off.

On 4wd systems there are two bull bars that are fitted on a Mazda and a Holden but the website says that they are compatiable if you type in r50 pathfinder. Can somebody tell me what models they are if so if they fit on a r50 pathfinder ? https://www.4wdsystems.com.au/index.php?id=125&cat=109

I’ve lurked enough on this forum, so this is my little contribution. Hopefully helpful for people wanting more storage in their center compartment. I got this idea from a picture of a Land Cruiser using Wits End APU-1 for EDC organizing mounted under the console lid. Did a little measuring and found a decent fit for pretty cheap. This fits perfectly in my ‘01 QX4 center console, not sure if Pathfinders have identical center armrest? The QX4 has a top compartment and a bottom, larger compartment, each with its own flip top lid. I found these $10 elastic organizer panels from Propper. One is 10”x5” which fits under the top lid. The other is 7”x5” which fits under the bottom lid. https://www.amazon.com/Propper-10-Elastic-Organizer-Panel/dp/B011TWWYIS https://www.amazon.com/Propper-Elastic-Organizer-Panel-Black/dp/B00V7F6NAS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=propper+7x5&qid=1591340857&sr=8-2 For the top lid using the 10”x5” panel, I used some heavy duty double-sided 1”x1” sticky pads and 1” Velcro loop strips cut to the same square sizes. Stuck the Velcro on the pad and the pad under the lid, total of 6 and lined up with the hooks on the back of the panel. (See progress pictures). For the bottom lid, I used the 7”x5” organizar panel. There is a removable plastic plate that divides the top console from the bottom, so I did the same process under this plastic plate using the 1”x1” double sided squats and Velcro loop strips cut to size. I have to cut some squares a bit smaller to fit the geometry molded under the plate (See picture). I also double stacked the double-sided 1”x1” squares to protrude past the plastic molding. Once I stuck the Panel into the Velcro squares, this things holds sturdy, hasn’t gotten loose even in the hot sun. Adds much more storage pens, knives, flashlights, really any EDC items. (See picture of final install). hope this helps someone. Ask me any questions. I’ll try to add better pictures. thanks!

So I have really done it this time.. pulled the engine off of a 2001 pathfinder with a 5 speed and I broke the front cover. Just was wondering if anyone out there had any good suggestions for a place to get the parts. The piece that I broke is the front cover and I've searched high and low. cross referenced the transmission model and found a front cover but unfortunately while bolting up I discovered that it will not work. I am up in Canada and our selection is limited. Thanks to all in advance.

So I’m new to the forums as a member but would browse through for useful information, well anyway I was on market place just browsing and I see a nice Qx4, has some rust on the doors but it could be fixed. Well that got me thinking, I’m not too sure but isn’t the body, chassis the same for the Qx4 and pathfinder, so would you be able to in theory swap the fenders hood, front bumper, etc or is the Qx4 wider or something else that would stop it from fitting right? I’m not really sure what category to put this in, but I just wonder, could be cool if you could not sure though, if anyone could explain why or why not I’d appreciate it.

Haven't posted anything information wise or pictures of my pathfinder" Abeona" as she has become known to us haha but now that's it closer to being "done" I feel as though I should start taking progress pictures and documenting so here we go I bought a 2001 le pathfinder that seemed to be rust free, to start building into a light offroad vehicle for back road camping and adventures so far I have installed ome heavy duty Rear springs, medium duty front springs, with ome shocks, after that was done I progressed to remove the flares and discovered the common rusting out issues, so I completely cut out and re welded in patch panels and then decided to paint Raptor liner along and the bottom of the rockers and behind all bumper as well coat the bumpers as well, bought new rain guards as the factory ones were all cracked and broken, installed front led lights for better offroad wide visibility, and have installed led rear back up lights,. Installed a surco roof basket and Yakima cross rails to carry more weight, as well as made and installed a " missing link" to help with body roll, removed the side steps and flares, and have unfortunately had the ECM fry due to iacv failure so I have fixed all that and tore down the top end and replaced everything I could, knock sensor vacum lines, manifold gaskets, serviced and new o ring gaskets on injectors, plugs and coilpacks, new iacv new throttle body gasket,new fuel pump/ filter the works as I want her to be reliable down backroads, have installed 15" wheels with 265 75 r15 tires, tried to install a strut spacer lift but found the CV axle angle was to great and created binding issues so removed and had to trim bumpers and heat gun some fender lining to prevent rubbing. So after all the work so far she has been great and we have and will continue to take her out and explore/ mod post pictures as we go

Hey all, I know there are a few topics on this, but I'm feeling a little lost. I know very little about lifts and suspension work and I'm taking this opportunity to get some education. I want to lift my R50 at least 3", however, I kind of want to lift it the highest possible without breaching a crazy cost/labour threshold. what parts would you recommend? is there a relatively complete package I can use/tweak? at what height do I need to start worrying about joint angles etc.? Should these be replaced, and is it relatively easy? what is the process for installing manual hubs? Recommendations on parts? Thanks a bunch! Joe

Anyone replaced the headlight bulbs with LEDs? I'm looking to do so and hoping to only spend around $40 cdn. Any help/ info would be awesome. Thanks everyone!

Hey all! Anyone have experience getting a couple more inches leg room in a manual R50? I'm looking at new brackets, remounting the current ones, or maybe playing with the pedal positions? Any help would be great. Cheers,

Hey all, I've got a 1998 nissan pathfinder that recently had the instrument cluster die on me so I sent it off for repair. Only problem is I need to drive the pathy to and from work and it only makes it about a day before the battery dies due to the alternator being triggered by the cluster. Does anyone here have any experience bypassing the cluster to make the alternator charge the vehicle when its on? I did a test with a multimeter and as soon as I unplug one of the big plugs on the cluster while it runs it goes from 14+ volts immediately to 12-12.7v. Any way I can jump a wire anywhere to bypass it for the next couple weeks? Thanks

Good day everyone 2 summers ago we lifted our pathy with all the goodies . Bought the expensive steering shaft and u joints from woodward . 2 weeks ago driving home we lost all steering and found out the u joint to the rack busted out and blew through the u joint housing. I was reading a few posts ago and and noticed someone mentioned using a shaft out of a honda .Any help would he great as it's the wifes daily and being in Canada it's a bit costly to get the parts shipped up .