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I apologize up front because I don’t know anything. I had my 2001 R50 SE 4WD lifted 2.5” with spacers at a tire shop. Now they’re telling me they can’t find rear shocks for it. That can’t be right? I’ve looked through the forums and I don’t know enough to know what I’m reading. The truck belonged to my brother in law and he was going to trick it out before he died last year. He was a car guy. I’m not. Wife and I are fixing it up to honor his memory. Any help is really appreciated!

I've been researching what shocks to get for my 4" lifted QX4 and I've settled on the 5165 but I'm not sure what bushings i need to fit into it. I read in some posts that it is a necessary step. And its understandable of course since the bushings are unsupported sizes for the r50. Is there a part number anyone could provide me for 5/8 bushings that fit the 5165 25-261400's? I saw that Jax99 ran that model. Also are there any inconveniences or tradeoffs anyone experiences from running the 5165s with the external reservoir? Things like whether or not the tube rubs the tire. My front end is spacer lifted 2.5" and my rear has LR 9448/9449 coils providing 4" of lift. I had looked at the 5165 25-187748 because it has a 17.93" compressed length which is very close to some 5125's (33-185569) I've seen some people running that have a 17.91" compressed length (with 11.8" travel). However the 25-187748 5165 has 17.93" compressed length AND 13.1" of travel. Which is quite an upgrade. Not to mention both of these shocks use 5/8 bushings for both top and bottom. Is there something I'm missing on why people aren't using the 25-187748 5165's? I saw one or two posts about people using the 25-261400's. Those come stock with 12mm eyes. To me at least it doesn't quite add up on why people would buy shocks that have incorrectly sized bushings that they have to switch, over just getting a model that has 5/8 eyes to start that, (to my knowledge) work on the r50 out of the box. But there may be something I'm not aware of. The way I see it, the 33-185569's seem objectively better due to the higher travel. And the fact that it has the same mounting length as other shocks I've seen r50 owners run means i know that the length is supported. And the 5/8 fitting seems perfect as I wouldn't have to switch the eye out. This is the parts+size chart I used - https://www.shockwarehouse.com/pages/bilstein-b8-series-measurements Sorry if this is a big information dump and a lot to ask but any info helps. I appreciate anything. Thanks in advance

Hey team, I have a 99 Infiniti QX4, 4x4 w/ electronic transfer case. So for about two months I've had an intermittent "hissing" sound come from the under the dash, near the brake pedal during cold starts and occasionally while driving. The sound goes away as soon as the brake pedal is pressed lightly. The sound sometimes is heard while driving (but much less often than on the cold start), and will also go away when the brake pedal is pressed lightly. After reading a few forum threads, it sounds like there is a potential vacuum leak in the Brake Booster and/or valve nearby the brake booster, or that the booster is starting to fail. All the forums I came across did not have conclusive threads as to what fixed the issue so here I am asking you all what I should check first and if you all have any recommendations. Brake function has not changed since I began hearing this sound, the brake pedal seems to work the same as it did before with no loss of braking power or pedal play changes. Please let me know what you think! All information is appreciated and accepted. Thanks team!

A bit of a long shot here BUT anyone happen to have extra r50's/ parts laying around? looking for trunk hinges for my 2004 Pathfinder. I have tried looking online and calling several body shops but they seem to be impossible to find. Any help/ recommendations would be greatly appreciated!! thanks

So, I'm finally getting around to start planning the build more and pricing materials out. A few nights ago I was out offroad and I ripped my front bumper off (whoops) so now its kick started my project of fabing an offroad worthy bumper. Its also lead me to wonder what I'll need to do the SFD (sub-frame drop) so I was hoping someone would be able to give me a bit of instruction? Maybe tell me where to find the mounts lol and better yet, show me their builds and SFD. Thanks in advance friends, can't wait to get my girl looking like the beast she is. (I tried to attach an image of what she's looking like right now but it says the file is too big?)

Thought I'd put up a build thread for my 2003 Chilkoot Edition Pathfinder. I'll be posting info and photos of my build as well as questions I have regarding R50 builds etc. Just to give a little back story, my Pathfinder was purchased from a second owner. The guy said he was planning to turn it into an off-road capable rig but with Covid-19 decided against it. When I picked it up, it had around 220,000 kms on it (located in Vancouver, CA). I took it to a local Nissan dealer, North Vancouver Nissan, to get it looked at and everything seemed to be running great. They put some new CV boots on it and changed the fluids and I was good to go... Until about a month in when the engine started to run super erratically and would start rough. Took it back to the dealer after taking out and cleaning the throttle body (which didn't help). Dealer thought it needed a new throttle body, then a new MAF and then a new ECU. All of which didn't help. Finally, they recommend I replace the engine. I begrudgingly said yes as I love the truck and wanted it running so I did the engine swap. Now she runs great, "New" engine has 130,000 kms on it and I'm starting to put some mods into it. The engine swap ran me about $6k so needless to say this may be becoming the most expensive R50 build in history. Tomorrow I'll be putting the SF Creation 2" spacer lift on it and upgrading the tires to Falken Wildpeak 265/70r16. Keeping the stock suspension and wheels for now, will probably upgrade in the summer to aftermarket wheels with the correct offset for 3.75" backspacing but this will do for the time being! Excited to share the lift and the build as I go. Here's a pic of everything stock. Will post the lift tomorrow. Cheers

Cb radio, stock except for wheels are from the 1999-2001 model.

Hey all, I've got a 2001 Pathy SE (RWD). I will do a 2in lift. The one plus to rwd is that i dont have to mess with cv joints. I have been talking with pathydude17 about my build list below. KYB STRUTS - https://www.shocksurplus.com/products/kyb-excel-g-oem-strut-front-pair-fits-2001-nissan-pathfinder Front Coils- https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981165-pathfinder-front-lift-coils.html Rear Coils- NRC9447 LR coils https://www.lrdirect.com/product.php?productid=28608&cat=413172&page=1 Shocks (bilstein 5100 [33-185552]) https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/bilstein-5100-series-shock-absorber-33-185552/_/R-BBGL-33-185552 or https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/bilstein-5100-series-shock-absorber-33-186009/_/R-BBGL-33-186009 (this one has a 12mm mount same as stock r50 mounts) (Camber kit) - rockauto pt#89056267 0r https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CB2GOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=502505&cc=1432945&jsn=898 Spring Seat [54034-0W000] - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4490748&cc=1432945&jsn=894 Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1028512&cc=1432945&jsn=902 The shocks have 26'' of extended travel, doing this so I dont have to extend my brake lines. If you want a longer shock (29) here are the links: (BRAKE LINE) https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-18J1473-Professional-Hydraulic-Assembly/dp/B000C9G0O4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=2000+frontier+rear+brake+line&qid=1577944626&replacementKeywords=rear+brake+line&sr=8-1&vehicle=2000-67-883------------&vehicleName=2000+Nissan+Frontier&linkCode=sl1&tag=tylersmith0a-20&linkId=9c53e63130f80bea521fddc0a2666067&language=en_US (LONGER 5100 shock) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FU6I6G?pf_rd_r=ZDSDNW52N6KC2VBQZWJV&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee GOOGLE DOCS with the links: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1EW3HZ7SSGSIaT4RBRRrkRrceZTYH2maWGEopqBGLRN0/edit?usp=sharing My current issue is that I do not know what the exact bolts& parts are needed for the rear shocks. If anyone has the exact mounting part specs, that would be a great help. Besides these, I am not sure what else I need for the lift, please let me know what else is needed. I plan to slowly start doing the upgrades over the end of the year to next year. Im first gonna change the brakes & radiator hoses. FYI the pathy has been in my family since new. Rust free and it just hit a trail for the first time over the weekend. It has 137,xxx miles and it runs smooth except it tends to get hot with elevation. Check out my ig: @irvine.r50 for build updates & trail stuff

Hi to all the NPORA members, this is my first post. I have a new dashboard light that seems to be the tire carrier warning light (next to door ajar). To clarify, I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder LE, that does not have a tire carrier fitted. I tried disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it immediately to no avail. I also tried disconnecting it for 5-10 minutes and starting the engine, to no avail. I’m located in Houston and it has been raining very heavily recently and my car was in the driveway. The light was on yesterday night, very dimly, but it turned off and I didn’t see it again until today when I had already been driving around town. It came on after a bit of a burnout in the slick road. I was in 2wd mode and had just switched from the AUTO mode, but like I said I had been driving it last night and didn’t slip the wheels or anything and the light was on. I was driving in the AUTO mode last night, but the light was on dimly. Today when it came on it was on dimly but then became fully lit when I got to my destination and is now fully lit and won’t turn off.

On 4wd systems there are two bull bars that are fitted on a Mazda and a Holden but the website says that they are compatiable if you type in r50 pathfinder. Can somebody tell me what models they are if so if they fit on a r50 pathfinder ? https://www.4wdsystems.com.au/index.php?id=125&cat=109

I’ve lurked enough on this forum, so this is my little contribution. Hopefully helpful for people wanting more storage in their center compartment. I got this idea from a picture of a Land Cruiser using Wits End APU-1 for EDC organizing mounted under the console lid. Did a little measuring and found a decent fit for pretty cheap. This fits perfectly in my ‘01 QX4 center console, not sure if Pathfinders have identical center armrest? The QX4 has a top compartment and a bottom, larger compartment, each with its own flip top lid. I found these $10 elastic organizer panels from Propper. One is 10”x5” which fits under the top lid. The other is 7”x5” which fits under the bottom lid. https://www.amazon.com/Propper-10-Elastic-Organizer-Panel/dp/B011TWWYIS https://www.amazon.com/Propper-Elastic-Organizer-Panel-Black/dp/B00V7F6NAS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=propper+7x5&qid=1591340857&sr=8-2 For the top lid using the 10”x5” panel, I used some heavy duty double-sided 1”x1” sticky pads and 1” Velcro loop strips cut to the same square sizes. Stuck the Velcro on the pad and the pad under the lid, total of 6 and lined up with the hooks on the back of the panel. (See progress pictures). For the bottom lid, I used the 7”x5” organizar panel. There is a removable plastic plate that divides the top console from the bottom, so I did the same process under this plastic plate using the 1”x1” double sided squats and Velcro loop strips cut to size. I have to cut some squares a bit smaller to fit the geometry molded under the plate (See picture). I also double stacked the double-sided 1”x1” squares to protrude past the plastic molding. Once I stuck the Panel into the Velcro squares, this things holds sturdy, hasn’t gotten loose even in the hot sun. Adds much more storage pens, knives, flashlights, really any EDC items. (See picture of final install). hope this helps someone. Ask me any questions. I’ll try to add better pictures. thanks!

So I have really done it this time.. pulled the engine off of a 2001 pathfinder with a 5 speed and I broke the front cover. Just was wondering if anyone out there had any good suggestions for a place to get the parts. The piece that I broke is the front cover and I've searched high and low. cross referenced the transmission model and found a front cover but unfortunately while bolting up I discovered that it will not work. I am up in Canada and our selection is limited. Thanks to all in advance.

So I’m new to the forums as a member but would browse through for useful information, well anyway I was on market place just browsing and I see a nice Qx4, has some rust on the doors but it could be fixed. Well that got me thinking, I’m not too sure but isn’t the body, chassis the same for the Qx4 and pathfinder, so would you be able to in theory swap the fenders hood, front bumper, etc or is the Qx4 wider or something else that would stop it from fitting right? I’m not really sure what category to put this in, but I just wonder, could be cool if you could not sure though, if anyone could explain why or why not I’d appreciate it.

Haven't posted anything information wise or pictures of my pathfinder" Abeona" as she has become known to us haha but now that's it closer to being "done" I feel as though I should start taking progress pictures and documenting so here we go I bought a 2001 le pathfinder that seemed to be rust free, to start building into a light offroad vehicle for back road camping and adventures so far I have installed ome heavy duty Rear springs, medium duty front springs, with ome shocks, after that was done I progressed to remove the flares and discovered the common rusting out issues, so I completely cut out and re welded in patch panels and then decided to paint Raptor liner along and the bottom of the rockers and behind all bumper as well coat the bumpers as well, bought new rain guards as the factory ones were all cracked and broken, installed front led lights for better offroad wide visibility, and have installed led rear back up lights,. Installed a surco roof basket and Yakima cross rails to carry more weight, as well as made and installed a " missing link" to help with body roll, removed the side steps and flares, and have unfortunately had the ECM fry due to iacv failure so I have fixed all that and tore down the top end and replaced everything I could, knock sensor vacum lines, manifold gaskets, serviced and new o ring gaskets on injectors, plugs and coilpacks, new iacv new throttle body gasket,new fuel pump/ filter the works as I want her to be reliable down backroads, have installed 15" wheels with 265 75 r15 tires, tried to install a strut spacer lift but found the CV axle angle was to great and created binding issues so removed and had to trim bumpers and heat gun some fender lining to prevent rubbing. So after all the work so far she has been great and we have and will continue to take her out and explore/ mod post pictures as we go

TL;DR at bottom before pic. Hey all, Been lurking here for a couple months reading up on guides and how-to's and looking at mods other people have done. Now it's my turn to post. My buddy's dad bought this 02 back in 2004 and drove the hell out of it. Mid-2018 he started having transmission problems. With 287k on it, he opted to just park it and he bought a new 4Runner. Well finally talked with him about it and I told him I'd buy it off of him. And that was that. Wouldn't stay running due to the idle air control valve, so replaced that and then test drove it hard and had no issues with the transmission. I didn't want to throw a transmission at it without confirming that's what it was. So I started doing other things to it. I bought some old 4Runner wheels with tires off craigslist for a few hundred dollars, great deal especially since the guy said the PO had just installed them before selling the 4Runner, and then the current owner put some aftermarket wheels and mud tires on, so I came out with tires with only 700 miles on them and date code is end of 2018. I installed some Warn hubs, a new alternator (bearing had started making a ton of noise and I screwed up reassembling the old alternator with the new bearings), new idler pulley, replaced the oil cooler o-ring and the rack boot on that side that the oil had deteriorated. Got some AC lift springs with Bilstein 33-185552 rear shocks and KYB 335032/335033 front struts and new strut bushings, also replaced the rear upper trailing arm bushings, they were absolutely wrecked haha. Also replaced all fluids in the truck except brake fluid (will probably do that next oil change). So after all of that and the looming question of "when the hell is this transmission going to fail" and driving 200 miles with no issues it finally bit the dust on me at 70 MPH cruising on the freeway heading home from my parents place after watching the Seahawks lose the divisional game. Felt like it dropped 4th gear and went into 3rd, was at 3500-4000 RPM. I needed gas anyway so I filled her up, started driving again and couldn't do much but crawl. Then it clunked and shifted fine a couple times. Luckily I was a couple miles from my work (I work at a car dealership as a technician). Unfortunately I didn't make it, after getting stopped at a light, it wouldn't shift out of first anymore and the metal on metal grinding noise coming from underneath me was enough to convince me to call for a tow. AAA got there and towed it to my work. I ordered up a transmission from a wrecking yard with 87k on it and bought the 1 year warranty on it. Now I'm just waiting for it to get here. TL;DR->> So here are my questions, I am already planning on replacing the internal filter on the 'new' transmission (I know its just a metal screen and doesn't do much but I'm planning on looking in the pan anyway), I am also planning on installing an aftermarket tranny cooler to bypass the factory one in the radiator (Hayden 678 if anyone is wondering). I was thinking if I should do the rear main seal as well, even though it looks like you are supposed to remove the oil pan, are you able to just add liquid gasket to the bottom of the seal retainer and call it good, or is it an actual fitment issue that is blocking you from replacing the RMS without dropping the pan? Also when I did my ATF change I used Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF. Do you guys recommend that or should I do a different fluid with the new transmission? Anything else you guys recommend I rock out when doing the transmission? Thanks! Jack

Hey all, I know there are a few topics on this, but I'm feeling a little lost. I know very little about lifts and suspension work and I'm taking this opportunity to get some education. I want to lift my R50 at least 3", however, I kind of want to lift it the highest possible without breaching a crazy cost/labour threshold. what parts would you recommend? is there a relatively complete package I can use/tweak? at what height do I need to start worrying about joint angles etc.? Should these be replaced, and is it relatively easy? what is the process for installing manual hubs? Recommendations on parts? Thanks a bunch! Joe

Anyone replaced the headlight bulbs with LEDs? I'm looking to do so and hoping to only spend around $40 cdn. Any help/ info would be awesome. Thanks everyone!

Hey all! Anyone have experience getting a couple more inches leg room in a manual R50? I'm looking at new brackets, remounting the current ones, or maybe playing with the pedal positions? Any help would be great. Cheers,

Hey all, I've got a 1998 nissan pathfinder that recently had the instrument cluster die on me so I sent it off for repair. Only problem is I need to drive the pathy to and from work and it only makes it about a day before the battery dies due to the alternator being triggered by the cluster. Does anyone here have any experience bypassing the cluster to make the alternator charge the vehicle when its on? I did a test with a multimeter and as soon as I unplug one of the big plugs on the cluster while it runs it goes from 14+ volts immediately to 12-12.7v. Any way I can jump a wire anywhere to bypass it for the next couple weeks? Thanks

Good day everyone 2 summers ago we lifted our pathy with all the goodies . Bought the expensive steering shaft and u joints from woodward . 2 weeks ago driving home we lost all steering and found out the u joint to the rack busted out and blew through the u joint housing. I was reading a few posts ago and and noticed someone mentioned using a shaft out of a honda .Any help would he great as it's the wifes daily and being in Canada it's a bit costly to get the parts shipped up .

Congrats to theexbrit

Hey everyone, excited to officially join the group! I've been using the site for the last few years researching everything involved with a 2" suspension lift which I installed a couple months ago. Figured it was about time I actually joined. It's been a fun learning experience and looking forward to taking advantage of being in one of the best places in the world for 4x4ing. Anyone else in Colorado let feel free to reach out!

It's there anyway to save the reverse? Ie change fluid, coolers? Or am I stuck with getting new tranny? I just did a vg30e cam swap along with timing pump, knock sensor head gasket. So don't want to get rid of vehicle.

Hey guys, complete newbie to forum here... but just got my 2002 QX4 lifted and put some 265/70/17 (31.6”x17) rims and tires on her and had a few questions about how to get a bit more clearance/ reduce rub. Researched it a bit and ended up ordering the 2” strut lift by sf creation. Parts came and looked good put them in and definitely lifted it 2” as they said. Got the 31.6” tires on it (bfg ko2’s on American racing baja wheels) sucks the photos won’t allow me to post my pictures... anyways, I’m getting a lot of rub on rears when I articulate even a little bit. A guy at shop said to get longer sway bar end links which I’m probably going to do. Also camber bolts? Same guy said not to worry about them for the 2” strut lift only. What else can I do to get a bit more room in back? Or should I just do the 1” spacers and get new suspension all around?

I plan on lifting my 2001 Qx4 but i cannot find anything more than 2.5'' in the front and 3'' in the back. Does anybody have any solutions to this? I thought about ordering two sets of the strut spacers and just stacking to desired height but wasn't sure if that was the safest route to go. Not sure about doing an SFD, still researching those. primarily looking for a suspension or body lift. If anyone has any ideas or alternatives please let me know! Thanks!