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RedPath88 last won the day on June 2

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About RedPath88

  • Birthday 05/24/1975

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Basics: 1988 Nissan Pathfinder SE-V6 4x4 5Spd, 430,000+ Miles.Background Info: I originally purchased this truck in December of 2001, but held off on doing any modifications, for the most part due to the many problems I had with it early on… such as vary poor performance that ended in the truck being completely un-drivable. This was corrected with the replacement of the ECU (which was the root of most of my problems). Soon after that was repaired a broken Camshaft gave me quite the headache, but I luckily came out of that with minimal damage. This was followed by both keyways in the crankshaft rounding out, which led to a new(used) engine.Engine: Performance camshafts, Dual Oil Filter Relocation Kit. The engine was replaced with a used unit (131K) at 291K when both crankshaft keyways rounded out on the original. And this was after the right hand camshaft broke around 270-280K. Waiting on Install: Headers Drivetrain:WARN Premium Manual Hubs, Nissan Hardbody transfer case shift lever (to compensate for the 3in Body Lift). Waiting on Install: LockRight Rear locker, 4.6 in Rear Diff. Convertion to Rear Disk Brakes, Front Diff with 4.6 R&PSuspension: Superlift UCA's, JGC Coils (approx 3in Lift), Sway-a-Way Torsion Bars, ProComp ES3000's, Energy Suspension coil spring isolators/spacers.Steering: Upgraded TK1 Style Centerlink (fixed by Trailchaser since Phil Dawkins of L&P Performance refused to replaced the life endangering Centerlink which he supplied me with) Double Shear Pitman and Idler Arms, Idler Arm Brace. Steering Stabilizer.Body: Performance Accessories 3in Body Lift, Custom Roof rack (adapted Chevy S10 Blazer rack), Ventshade vent visors, Deer dent behind drivers door... and a dent "in" the deer by the ARB *grin* Thule Roof Rack/Cargo Basket. Waiting on Install: Factory Fender Flares, Xterra Roof RackElectrical & Lighting: 110AMP (Quest/Villager) Alternator. JVC HDR1 High Definition Radio/CD Deck, Overhead DVD system, Navigon 2100 MAX GPS, 1100 watt power inverter and a Cobra 25LTD Classic, Rear High Mount Speakers from a '94, nothing really special yet in the speaker departments. And a pair of PIAA Fog Lamps on the front of the ARB. 5-6 100watt Offroad Lamps. Waiting on install: Two 55watt Rear Facing Lamps for the Thule Basket.Tires/Wheels: 33x10.50 BFG Mud Terrain KM2's on Ultra 589 15x8 wheels.Armor/Recovery: ARB BullBar, HiLift, 12.5K T-Max Winch, recovery straps, portable shovel, axe, First Aid kit, dual tow hooks, etc.Interior: Rear Belts w/Shoulder Harness from a '94, '95 Center Console w/tall arm rest, rear floor ducts for the climate control.-------------------------------------------------------Did I mention that Phil Dawkins of L&P Performance built and sent me a Centerlink that seems to have been made to endanger my life??? And that he has refused (by ignoring all my attempts at contacting him) to correct the situation by sending me a properly made Centerlink or reimbursing me for the costs involved in having it properly fixed... did I also forget to mention that this has been going on for well over a year now???Can you guess what my opinion of such a stand up business man and all around great guy Phil Dawkins might be???Contact Phil Dawkins @ 217-351-8316 and ask him why he has not corrected this situation and why he would endanger my life, my kid’s lives and the lives of those around me by building such a poor product and then actually sending it to me thinking that I am some idiot customer who blindly installs anything I get (Phil, I look at EVERYTHING before I install it, I will not install anything that is questionable to me before making sure that it is safe.. and everyone agreed that the CL you build was NOT even close to safe!!)If you get an answer from him, please let me know, because he sure as hell will not answer those questions for me!Pictures of the Centerlink in question, along with the story can be found here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14730
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
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    RedPath88 at gmail.com
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    Western OR USA
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Interested in one day getting one of those "lives" people talk about.

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Community Answers

  1. I experienced this years ago with my '83 Yota's alternator, turned out 1983 was the experimental year for the upcoming redesigned 1984 models. My truck was one of only 300 units produced in the NA, with that alternator. Anyway, after striking out at several different parts stores, private, local and larger chains I managed to walk into just the right Schucks Auto Supply. The guy behind the counter refused to believe that he could not get me the correct part. So, after hour or two of searching, pulling parts and physically comparing, I walked out with the right one! Turns out it had been used on a 70's Corolla or something, don't remember and doesn't matter anyway as they, now O'Rielly Auto Parts, can properly identify the alternator... coincidence? Anyway, my point is that unless someone here can get the part number right for you, perhaps you should take it to, or into, a local parts store.
  2. Hopefully they don't find any of this...
  3. I think you may have missed the part where I said "IF all else fails"... I should have noted sooner that you not going to get much movement out of it, it all depends on the amount of space between the MC and FW opening.
  4. Since you have another penetrating oil on order, I'd recommend that between now and then, if you have not already done so, saturate the front AND back (firewall side) of the lower stud with PB Blaster (which has been my decades long, go too.) Now you may need to pull/flex the MC a bit to make space between it and the firewall, for the oil to effectively run down to the lower stud. This may resolve the issue or help until you can acquire and apply the use of a dead blow hammer to it, as Frenchy rightfully suggested. That said, IF all else fails, I absolutely would not be afraid to (carefully) take an angle grinder with a narrow disk to it. Disconnect all lines and protect them. Then drain and suck out all the fluid you can (using a simple baster or fluid vac) and cover every open line to prevent contamination. Keep water and/or a fire extinguisher nearby, just in case. If you don't overheat it (grind in steps, using water as you go to cool the metal in between) or grind into the fluid chamber, then this should not be an issue. Simply trim off the upper MC mounting flange near the top of the center core. And if need be, the forward reservoir (nearer to the reservoir) to allow you to effectively get to the firewall side. Once separated and removed, it should allow you to start rotating the remaining MC mounting flange on its lower axis, back and forth (with penetrating oil) using locking, adjustable pliers, or a similar clamping tool, to break it hopefully free of the stud. Ask me why I know this could work... well, because I've done it before. I just don't recall if it was on the '75 Monarch or '82 Escort...
  5. Not sure how long the forum was down, but it was caused by a PHP error on the server. And a thanks goes out to @adamzan for bringing it to my attention.
  6. Welcome to NPORA! Got your email and all your "backup threads" have been deleted Guessing you're using Tapatalk? It has been a known problem for a very long time, where it does not appear to post a new topic, only to find out after multiple submissions that it did... every time the button was pressed. I'd take it up with them, again, but in multiple times I have over the years that we have, they always blame us rather than offering an actual solution.
  7. Banned for assuming that AARP cares how "old" you are, or are not, before sending you some free fire tinder.. err, I mean, junk mail...
  8. Banned for not realizing it himself
  9. Banned for thinking that very many people today know what Dukes of Hazzard reruns are
  10. Banned for not understanding the illusion that is, or may be, linear time!
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