RedPath88
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RedPath88's Achievements
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Agreed and removed
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Having never been a fan of (un)Social Media (for several reasons), I agree... and have spoke against the existence of the group for years.
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FYI ALL, this has not gone unnoticed. I have recently spent a massive amount of time working "out of town" and sadly will be again in just a handful of months. I also need to get the forum software company engaged for some long overdue and much needed updates, which, at this point requires their support. This is the overwhelming issue at this point, which dates back to 2020'ish, as in my line of work the needs that arose then resulted in demands for those within my line of work, well have simply not stopped. Not making excuses, just pointing out my failures to the community. More to come as I reach out to the backend support team... On the flip side, I scored a deal this past weekend on a 99.9% new MIG welder, w/full setup, including a gas bottle! In the mean time I may contact some for anti-SPAM support, even if it's only in the shorterm.
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guess not...
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Volunteering?
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off Script
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Hey Lucas, in response to your report about multiple posts, if you posted this via the Tapatalk app, then it was not an "internet error" but was actually a well-known Tapatalk error that has been a thing in our, along with many other communities, since the advent of Tapatalk... Basically, when you post via Tapatalk and it gives you an error... or no response at all... please DO NOT refresh/repost. Instead, go back and check the forum listings, where you'll most likely find that your topic was indeed posted. The NPORA Staff, brought this up directly with the Tapatalk staff many years ago (documented here on the forum, somewhere). But they have ever since, remained 100% unwilling to correct the issue!
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Combination Joiner
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Order New A/C compressor & 3 in a row have the wrong wiring
RedPath88 replied to PamPoovey's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
I experienced this years ago with my '83 Yota's alternator, turned out 1983 was the experimental year for the upcoming redesigned 1984 models. My truck was one of only 300 units produced in the NA, with that alternator. Anyway, after striking out at several different parts stores, private, local and larger chains I managed to walk into just the right Schucks Auto Supply. The guy behind the counter refused to believe that he could not get me the correct part. So, after hour or two of searching, pulling parts and physically comparing, I walked out with the right one! Turns out it had been used on a 70's Corolla or something, don't remember and doesn't matter anyway as they, now O'Rielly Auto Parts, can properly identify the alternator... coincidence? Anyway, my point is that unless someone here can get the part number right for you, perhaps you should take it to, or into, a local parts store. -
Hopefully they don't find any of this...
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I think you may have missed the part where I said "IF all else fails"... I should have noted sooner that you not going to get much movement out of it, it all depends on the amount of space between the MC and FW opening.
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Since you have another penetrating oil on order, I'd recommend that between now and then, if you have not already done so, saturate the front AND back (firewall side) of the lower stud with PB Blaster (which has been my decades long, go too.) Now you may need to pull/flex the MC a bit to make space between it and the firewall, for the oil to effectively run down to the lower stud. This may resolve the issue or help until you can acquire and apply the use of a dead blow hammer to it, as Frenchy rightfully suggested. That said, IF all else fails, I absolutely would not be afraid to (carefully) take an angle grinder with a narrow disk to it. Disconnect all lines and protect them. Then drain and suck out all the fluid you can (using a simple baster or fluid vac) and cover every open line to prevent contamination. Keep water and/or a fire extinguisher nearby, just in case. If you don't overheat it (grind in steps, using water as you go to cool the metal in between) or grind into the fluid chamber, then this should not be an issue. Simply trim off the upper MC mounting flange near the top of the center core. And if need be, the forward reservoir (nearer to the reservoir) to allow you to effectively get to the firewall side. Once separated and removed, it should allow you to start rotating the remaining MC mounting flange on its lower axis, back and forth (with penetrating oil) using locking, adjustable pliers, or a similar clamping tool, to break it hopefully free of the stud. Ask me why I know this could work... well, because I've done it before. I just don't recall if it was on the '75 Monarch or '82 Escort...
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Not sure how long the forum was down, but it was caused by a PHP error on the server. And a thanks goes out to @adamzan for bringing it to my attention.
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Welcome to NPORA! Got your email and all your "backup threads" have been deleted Guessing you're using Tapatalk? It has been a known problem for a very long time, where it does not appear to post a new topic, only to find out after multiple submissions that it did... every time the button was pressed. I'd take it up with them, again, but in multiple times I have over the years that we have, they always blame us rather than offering an actual solution.
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