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Everything posted by RedPath88

  1. Tapatalk updated to latest version. -No forum site downtime -Minimal app access downtime
  2. Banned for assuming wiggling vs animation!
  3. I don't drive it as much as I used too!
  4. Groundbreaking for new construction happened yesterday, right next door... So unless they fence the whole thing off , I might have an easy reason to break out the 1/8 and 1/10 scale offroad RC's!
  5. BANNED, for killing the thread!
  6. No need for this around here
  7. Forum was offline for less than 5 minutes for a security and minor software update.
  8. First thing I suggest would be to review this thread and see of you have similar symptoms, this may be your issue and fix...
  9. Your are correct about deletion... in this instance I'll just lock this thread. But, given that new/recent threads are already given attention in the sidebar, as this post was as well, please refrain from doing this in the future. ?
  10. Building off of @Slartibartfast, I would lean towards low pressure... in my personal experience, that has always been the issue, on multiple vehicles, but YMMV. As for the light, in my '88 (not sure about '97s) the light does not turn on unless the clutch is electrically engaged. Meaning no light if the system pressure is below the pressure switches minimum threshhoold.
  11. @mjotrainbrain I honestly don't recall this thread But there have been a few RC related threads over time. But in the interest of moving forward. I currently have some old R/C's, not as old R/C's and a newer clone of an older, but updated, R/C. Kyosho Double Dare, a 1/10th scale 4WDS Nissan Hardbody monster truck. This was my very first hobby class RC. Kyosho Turbo Ultimate, a 1/10th scale 2WD off road buggy Yokomo YZ10, a 1/10th scale 4WD off road buggy. One of my favorites and has been modified extensively. Duratrax 835B, an 1/8th scale 4WD Nitro Buggy. Bought three of them (two for the boys) tons-of-fun! Always wanted a Kyosho Inferno when I was a kid, but could never afford one. Tamyia Bruiser clone, a 1/10th scale Toyota 4WD replica. This replaced the Tamyia Mountaineer (different version of the same model) that I sold to my brother to by my first, real, car. Thee agreed condition was that if he ever sold it, I got first option to buy back. 3-5yrs after he sold it, I found out that he had, sold it! I actually have two of these, as one is slated for a special project at some point. No longer have my Plane or Helo. Also sold/traded away my Losi XXT and gold pan RC10 long, long ago.
  12. Yesterday: Jumped my neighbors van after he left his dome light on all night. After parking and locking the Pathy back up I noticed smoke coming from under the hood. Popped it and found that where there is smoke, there is fire! On the RH side of the intake manifold next to the TB. Today: Replaced all the soft fuel lines from the frame rail to the TB. Problem solved
  13. As far as I can remember it was in regard to the instance I mentioned above, which was quite a few years ago. Have you called or emailed SuperLift about it?
  14. Front shock length requirement does not change with lift. SuperLift/Rough Country UCA's would be my recommendation as well. See my post in the following thread
  15. Yeah the Calmini and SL/RC arms all correct ball joint angles as part of their design, AC are the only ones that do not. But that said said many have reported no alignment issues, with our own @5523Pathfinder being one of them.
  16. Looks good! Just adding the following context for other members... People have reported in the past that Calmini UCA's has had, iirc, premature bushing wear issues and AC UCA's have given many alignment problems. Neither of these are across the board,but the numbers were high enough to be a consideration. My personal recommendation, and what I run, is SuperLift/Rough Country D21 UCA's. Superlift manufactures them and the difference is only in the coating, nickel on SL & a rough textured powder coat on RC. The only complaint about them that I can recall was a bad production run that left their inner mounts out of alignment. Once the issue had been identified, it was corrected and affected units were replaced with just a call. I originally bought RC branded arms, and SL quickly replaced them with SL versions. This issue is documented here on the forum. If they are still available, assuming they still make and sell in the same way, they come as a package lift for 4x4 Hardbody's (with rear blocks) only and are not available for a Pathfinder. However, they are equally compatible with all WD21 pathfinders as they use the same front suspension as the 4WD HB's The way to get just the arms years ago was to call RC and request just the arms (with bushing/accessories) and to not tell them that they were for a WD21. Some have said that they don't do this anymore, while I believe some have got them. So I can't say if you can still get a set or not. But I can say that how you spoke to them, perhaps even who you spoke to, back when many people were buying them directly from Rough Country, effected your success.
  17. Welcome to NPORA Forums Pathy1996! I've moved your post to the R50 section to try and give it more exposure. Consider making a new post in the new members section to introduce yourself.
  18. Forum was offline for less than 60 seconds for a minor software update.
  19. Does it work well for you? Have you had any problems and would you do anything differently if done again? BTW there's no issue with reviving old posts. Honestly it helps keep related info together
  20. It's been quite insane, 'cuz, ya know, every1 needz der internetz!!! Only if you never visit the NPORA Home Page

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