Jump to content

RedPath88

Admin
  • Posts

    29,163
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    76

Everything posted by RedPath88

  1. I experienced this years ago with my '83 Yota's alternator, turned out 1983 was the experimental year for the upcoming redesigned 1984 models. My truck was one of only 300 units produced in the NA, with that alternator. Anyway, after striking out at several different parts stores, private, local and larger chains I managed to walk into just the right Schucks Auto Supply. The guy behind the counter refused to believe that he could not get me the correct part. So, after hour or two of searching, pulling parts and physically comparing, I walked out with the right one! Turns out it had been used on a 70's Corolla or something, don't remember and doesn't matter anyway as they, now O'Rielly Auto Parts, can properly identify the alternator... coincidence? Anyway, my point is that unless someone here can get the part number right for you, perhaps you should take it to, or into, a local parts store.
  2. Hopefully they don't find any of this...
  3. I think you may have missed the part where I said "IF all else fails"... I should have noted sooner that you not going to get much movement out of it, it all depends on the amount of space between the MC and FW opening.
  4. Since you have another penetrating oil on order, I'd recommend that between now and then, if you have not already done so, saturate the front AND back (firewall side) of the lower stud with PB Blaster (which has been my decades long, go too.) Now you may need to pull/flex the MC a bit to make space between it and the firewall, for the oil to effectively run down to the lower stud. This may resolve the issue or help until you can acquire and apply the use of a dead blow hammer to it, as Frenchy rightfully suggested. That said, IF all else fails, I absolutely would not be afraid to (carefully) take an angle grinder with a narrow disk to it. Disconnect all lines and protect them. Then drain and suck out all the fluid you can (using a simple baster or fluid vac) and cover every open line to prevent contamination. Keep water and/or a fire extinguisher nearby, just in case. If you don't overheat it (grind in steps, using water as you go to cool the metal in between) or grind into the fluid chamber, then this should not be an issue. Simply trim off the upper MC mounting flange near the top of the center core. And if need be, the forward reservoir (nearer to the reservoir) to allow you to effectively get to the firewall side. Once separated and removed, it should allow you to start rotating the remaining MC mounting flange on its lower axis, back and forth (with penetrating oil) using locking, adjustable pliers, or a similar clamping tool, to break it hopefully free of the stud. Ask me why I know this could work... well, because I've done it before. I just don't recall if it was on the '75 Monarch or '82 Escort...
  5. Not sure how long the forum was down, but it was caused by a PHP error on the server. And a thanks goes out to @adamzan for bringing it to my attention.
  6. Welcome to NPORA! Got your email and all your "backup threads" have been deleted Guessing you're using Tapatalk? It has been a known problem for a very long time, where it does not appear to post a new topic, only to find out after multiple submissions that it did... every time the button was pressed. I'd take it up with them, again, but in multiple times I have over the years that we have, they always blame us rather than offering an actual solution.
  7. Banned for assuming that AARP cares how "old" you are, or are not, before sending you some free fire tinder.. err, I mean, junk mail...
  8. Banned for not realizing it himself
  9. Banned for thinking that very many people today know what Dukes of Hazzard reruns are
  10. Banned for not understanding the illusion that is, or may be, linear time!
  11. Banned for accepting the "New Normal" *BTW, prior posts crack me up lol
  12. The 3mo cert is a newer feature included with the backend database management software and is free, so I can't really complain to much. I just need to set a reminder a few days in advance, since the "auto" part of it is clearly not. lol
  13. And once again we are back to the not-really auto auto-renewal... SSL has been renewed and restored.
  14. So I've watched Andy for quite a long time now, and although he bought this Pathfinder a bit ago he's finally made a video, about it, specifically. Perhaps members of the NPORA Community can reach out to him, directly or in his comments section. Maybe even get him to join the NPORA Forums, help him out with some helpful information and advice. Thus giving him more exposure to true Pathfinder/Terrano enthusiasts and maybe providing NPORA with more YouTube exposure! ???
  15. Went to renew it and found that it auto-renewed 2 days ago. This is it was it supposed to do before, so hopefully on Mar 23/24 this won't happen again.
  16. Same here, both the Pathy and the Suburban have maintainers on them.
×
×
  • Create New...