RedPath88

@mjotrainbrain I honestly don't recall this thread But there have been a few RC related threads over time. But in the interest of moving forward. I currently have some old R/C's, not as old R/C's and a newer clone of an older, but updated, R/C. Kyosho Double Dare, a 1/10th scale 4WDS Nissan Hardbody monster truck. This was my very first hobby class RC. Kyosho Turbo Ultimate, a 1/10th scale 2WD off road buggy Yokomo YZ10, a 1/10th scale 4WD off road buggy. One of my favorites and has been modified extensively. Duratrax 835B, an 1/8th scale 4WD Nitro Buggy. Bought three of them (two for the boys) tons-of-fun! Always wanted a Kyosho Inferno when I was a kid, but could never afford one. Tamyia Bruiser clone, a 1/10th scale Toyota 4WD replica. This replaced the Tamyia Mountaineer (different version of the same model) that I sold to my brother to by my first, real, car. Thee agreed condition was that if he ever sold it, I got first option to buy back. 3-5yrs after he sold it, I found out that he had, sold it! I actually have two of these, as one is slated for a special project at some point. No longer have my Plane or Helo. Also sold/traded away my Losi XXT and gold pan RC10 long, long ago.

Yesterday: Jumped my neighbors van after he left his dome light on all night. After parking and locking the Pathy back up I noticed smoke coming from under the hood. Popped it and found that where there is smoke, there is fire! On the RH side of the intake manifold next to the TB. Today: Replaced all the soft fuel lines from the frame rail to the TB. Problem solved

As far as I can remember it was in regard to the instance I mentioned above, which was quite a few years ago. Have you called or emailed SuperLift about it?

Front shock length requirement does not change with lift. SuperLift/Rough Country UCA's would be my recommendation as well. See my post in the following thread

Yeah the Calmini and SL/RC arms all correct ball joint angles as part of their design, AC are the only ones that do not. But that said said many have reported no alignment issues, with our own @5523Pathfinder being one of them.

Looks good! Just adding the following context for other members... People have reported in the past that Calmini UCA's has had, iirc, premature bushing wear issues and AC UCA's have given many alignment problems. Neither of these are across the board,but the numbers were high enough to be a consideration. My personal recommendation, and what I run, is SuperLift/Rough Country D21 UCA's. Superlift manufactures them and the difference is only in the coating, nickel on SL & a rough textured powder coat on RC. The only complaint about them that I can recall was a bad production run that left their inner mounts out of alignment. Once the issue had been identified, it was corrected and affected units were replaced with just a call. I originally bought RC branded arms, and SL quickly replaced them with SL versions. This issue is documented here on the forum. If they are still available, assuming they still make and sell in the same way, they come as a package lift for 4x4 Hardbody's (with rear blocks) only and are not available for a Pathfinder. However, they are equally compatible with all WD21 pathfinders as they use the same front suspension as the 4WD HB's The way to get just the arms years ago was to call RC and request just the arms (with bushing/accessories) and to not tell them that they were for a WD21. Some have said that they don't do this anymore, while I believe some have got them. So I can't say if you can still get a set or not. But I can say that how you spoke to them, perhaps even who you spoke to, back when many people were buying them directly from Rough Country, effected your success.

Careful, you might inadvertently summon the v"6"

I recall nothing of the sort!

Welcome to NPORA Forums Pathy1996! I've moved your post to the R50 section to try and give it more exposure. Consider making a new post in the new members section to introduce yourself.

Forum was offline for less than 60 seconds for a minor software update.

Does it work well for you? Have you had any problems and would you do anything differently if done again? BTW there's no issue with reviving old posts. Honestly it helps keep related info together

It's been quite insane, 'cuz, ya know, every1 needz der internetz!!! Only if you never visit the NPORA Home Page

You are correct, but it's been a long while since I've updated and added new ones. May still be a bit, I'll try and let you know when I start doing it once again. Also, I see you sent a PM a while ago. My apologies for not responding, I honestly didn't even see it as I have been slammed at work during the shutdowns.

Replaced the alarm siren.

"Essential Worker" here... whatever that means.... Work hours up SUBSTANTIALLY, personal life, in any and all fashion, pretty much non-existent at this point... if either of those scenarios are even possible! I believe there are a few cases within the county, more one county over, including Veteran's Home deaths.

Very Cool!

Good job! I am going to have to do this on my drivers door again to my 88. Seems the aftermarket pins did not last as long as the factory ones..

I'd give them a call, but as mentioned several times here on NPORA tell them you have a Hardbody and do not mention the word "Pathfinder" They used to be willing to sell the arms separately and directly. If they still offer them (probably in a leaf sprung Hardbody kit) they may still sell them alone if you ask nicely *don't forget to ask for the bushings and hardware as well! If not, then as @FirstGenFreak mentioned, you can go with Superlift arms (same thing, different finish)

That's what I figured you were talking about. An Xterra rack, people have been putting them on WD21's for a long time now. I actually have one in the garage that I have never got around to installing. It's meant to replace the S10 rack I originally installed, and currently still have, on my '88.

Installed new hatch struts Which truck?

Forum was offline for less than 60 seconds for a minor software update.

This thread may be of help, this of course kinda assumes that its a mirror image to the LHD models... https://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-replace-cabin-air-filter-t440515.html

I bought a cheap Bluetooth adapter years ago and used Torque (as mentioned above by @jjmwilkinson) Still use both of them to this day. It's proven to be very reliable and great for basic OBDII code reading. In addition to giving real-time information. The Adapter is actually plugged into my cars OBDII port full time. but note that I use these with Android, so YMMV. I remember when I was researching these things that iOS had compatibility issues with BT devices IIRC.. wasn't my focus so I don't remember exactly. But I see the one linked by @XPLORx4 uses WiFi, his word is good enough to trust in it, but if you look at other devices do your research to make sure they will work with your iOS version and device.

Ditto, though I need to replace the entire exhaust system, which I have in the garage minus one minor custom coupling requirement, it still starts first on the first turn if they key. I kinda feel bad for only calling upon its services now and then lately. It's easy to just stick with the norm and drive the same vehicle, in this case the Lincoln, regularly. As such, I've decided to rotate more regularly between the two. Granted, we're only talking 4.4 miles per day between home and the company vehicle, on days I don't simply work from home. Plus what little I do on weekends, but it's something nonetheless.

Drove it, as I have a more often than not over the past couple weeks.