PrecisionX

I currently own a 2001 Pathy with 225k on it. It’s tired but still works. The wife is looking for an SUV that can pile the miles, off road capability isn’t super important and neither is MPG. She’s just tired of her 2007, things not working as they should due to age and so on. Low maintenance is important and so isn’t reliability/size. Open to any hidden gems that aren’t stupid expensive and or under the radar SUVs. She’s thinking pilot but I’m hoping for other ideas too. We drive a ton 20-30k a year and her outback is at the point where it’s nickel and diming to death.

I have an 01 R50 with 225k on it. New battery, starter, alternator all within the past 2-3 years. Just drove it the other day, it’s been parked for a day and I went to fire it up this morning and... nothing. Dash lights up when I turn the key but no click, no tick just dead silence with a super faint whine of some kind that’s so faint you don’t even know if it’s that you’re hearing. What could it be? The end of the Pathy or something stupid and simple? Over the years there have been random times when I drive it all day, shut it down to gas up and then it won’t start... I let it cool down a couple minutes and it fires up. It comes and goes but I’m wondering if the ignition was on its way out and finally randomly quit?

The entire door panel?

Looking for info and pics on how to remove fender flares for POR rust stopper treatment. 2001 R50

I have a 2001 R50 and I’m getting bubbles around my driver side mirror and was hoping to get some DIY help to remove it so I can do some POR ing.

Where is the bleeder nipple and is the incline supposed to be engine at highest point or lowest point? I have ramps I can drive up on. currently the original upper his is leaking, I’m just replacing the upper hose what does the heat and fan blower need to be set on and how do I know when it’s done?

The other day I noticed a coolant drip from under my vehicle at idle and when I got it home I noticed that the upper radiator hose was spitting out coolant. I did not overheat but I ordered a new upper Radiator hose and clamps which seems like a pretty straightforward job however I have never bled a cooling system before and can’t find any good videos on it either so I was hoping someone could help me out and give me a step-by-step how to so that I can keep my 216,000 mile Pathfinder alive! Thank you

What are the bolt specs on this?

I have an 01 Pathfinder with a 3.5 and 212k. The alternator is a year old and the battery is less than that. I started up my truck this morning just fine and I’ve been driving it all day but when I went to shut it off to get fuel it would not start. I tried three more times and it would not start I gave it a minute and then it turned over . Is my starter on its way out and if so how easy is it to replace ? I am not even getting a click when it decides not to start

Replaced the rear drums and shoes, pads, rotors and calipers and the vibration is gone but I do have a slight humming from the diff. Fluid is clean with no metal shavings at all.

The vibration feels like it’s throughout the truck and in the steering wheel it’s more faint. It’s not WTF is that I need to pull over but it’s prominent enough that you notice it. I’m picking it up today and will update

This started happening after my rear drums were replaced, I’d get brake shake from the rear and then this turned into cutting the drums and it ended up turning into consistently shaking at highway speeds only between 60-80. If I’m below that it’s gone. My steering rack is leaking internally, a tie rod has play, just had both front axles replaced. The shop mentioned it to me because they wanted to let me know that the shake probably wouldn’t go away once the brakes were replaced. He’s “95 percent sure it’s the dif” but all these things point to wheel balance

To get a little deeper about the symptoms it’s essentially a vibration between 60-80mph, there is ZERO vibration before. The truck is naturally noisy that I can’t tell if it’s louder or not. I’m running Hankook Dynapro ATMs in 245/75. My rear drums and shoes have given me an issue enough that they’re getting replaced after a few months of getting brake shake in the rear under braking. The fronts are being replaced too but the Vibration starts without braking, just on the highway. The truck is clean with minimal to no rust, it’s a Texas rig. I’d hate to see this be the end as I think a differential rebuild or replacement is probably more expensive than the trucks worth keeping. Mechanics have told me to check a wheel balance first and drive it on the highway, put it in neutral and if the vibration goes away it’s a drivetrain issue, if it’s still there it’s a wheel balance issue.

Is my differential toast? 2001 LSD with 210k? Fluid is honey colored, dif is hot to the touch and there’s a vibration between 60-80mph only. Nothing before. Shop put a stethoscope to it and said he can hear the pinion bearing grinding I think? What are my options and is it worth it or is it a wheel balance issue? Fluid was changed at 135 and 30k ish after, both front and rear.

Is my differential toast? 2001 LSD with 210k? Fluid is honey colored, dif is hot to the touch and there’s a vibration between 60-80mph only. Nothing before. Shop put a stethoscope to it and said he can hear the pinion bearing grinding I think? What are my options and is it worth it or is it a wheel balance issue?