RedPath88

Meh, if you have a fairly priced wrecking yard nearby then JCG springs are cheap and you can get a right angle grinder and cut off wheel for under $20 from Harbor Freight if you don't already have one. Cutting the pigtail off is easy enough and I don't even notice the slightly increased spring rate anymore. And not having spacers means that it's one less thing at risk of falling out or "slipping" at full articulation.

Macrow can you edit your signature either with new links that work (aka not PB, unless you upgrade your PB account) or remove them from the sig. Unfortunately PB has decided to screw over all of their customers and the result is a log of info lost and/or wasted space taken in forums because of it. Thanks!

Yeah pretty sure that when I did mine many years ago, I just took the strut off the ball, as mentioned above though, wacth the glass! Side note: A trick I leaned a long time ago about the hatch... when the hatch struts are blown/will no longer support the door, open the glass and then the hatch. The weight transfer of the open glass, combined with the leverage that the now open glass has on the door will hold the hatch up

***tapatalk strikes again* *5 duplicate topics removed Please ignore future failure errors when posting via tapatalk, as they are not valid. Long standing issue that they still have not fixed!

I agree with statements above and I really I hate to see this, but I also cannot say that it was totally unexpected. And aside from simply not "taking anything away" from or just appearing to "copy", NICO... this is exactly one of the reasons that we did not choose to host them here at NPORA.

Forgive me if this has been covered already, if so then I missed it in my quick skimming... what condition are the soft lines in? K9 had an issue a couple of years ago that he traced to a line bulging when the brakes were applied. Now in his case, iirc, was due to replacing the line and getting the wrong type of hose. Change that, problem solved. I'll see if I can find it...

Even if the generic reference caused confusion, the fact that I referenced a design intent to run without doors, should have cleared up the meaning. That sucks, did they break from just being worn out or maybe from some impact damage at some point? ...or perhaps someone in the past who heavy handed them, I can see that as a possible cause. The handles, inside and out, on my 88 are still good and it has over 435k worth of door openings one it! Even the rear hatch handle is going strong and its has suffered the weight of the door numerous times when the struts have gone bad... although that one is metal.

I never said nor implied that they were.... and you just validated my point. If I had been referring to a Cherokee I would have mentioned that. A generic reference to a Jeep in an off road discussion is not about a Cherokee. Also, a little applied (un)common sense... and given that I referenced a design intent to run without doors, eliminates Cherokee's from the possible Jeep models I was targeting with that example. But anyway, the intent of my original post was simply to bring up safety concerns to the original poster, not to open the door up for and get the moving on now...

Pathfinders doors were not designed to be removed in any case but service or repair situations, nor do they have roll bars/cages from the factory.... bud

Couple things.... Unlike Jeeps, Pathfinders were designed to have their doors on.. they are part of the structure. Without them (or suitable and properly built tube replacements) you run a higher risk of serious injury in an accident. Your ECM is on the floor under the passenger side front seat, if you get a freak rain storm, it could be compromised.

I broke a cam (just behind the pulley) on my 88 once while driving 60mph and instead of just trying my luck I took the head to a local machine shop to have checked out. Wish I could remember exactly what but they found a few things that needed attention as a result (it's documented here somewhere.) in addition to planning the head(*s) they also found *slightly* damaged valves. Once they were done, I put it all back together and it fired up and ran normally. I guess my point here is, don't just assume that everything is okay, just a little damage invisible to the eye could be the issue. Check the timing again and be 100% SURE that it is correct in EVERY aspect. Then if it seems to be right, it might be time to pull the head... or heads... and have them checked by an engine machine shop. Maybe one of the valves is bent just a little and is not fully seating.

Good starting point: The Garage > Suspension lift information

Yeah, that's the primary understanding that I've always had. Same thing occurred with the 4Runner.

https://www.autoblog.com/2018/02/19/nissan-pathfinder-junkyard-gem/

Tapatalk updated to the most current version.

Noticed that the summer heat is getting to a second side trim now. Pass door trim already fell off this summer, now the panel directly behind it is starting the peel.

Here's the thread, or at least one of them, from when RC's was first discovered as an option. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4844-ucas-upper-control-arms/

It's not, unless they have changed them, which I doubt. As far as I can see SL does not even seem to list them on their site anymore. RC still does and I see that the kit includes shackles for the rear of the HB, not an add-a-leaf or block. Either way, they are the same. The RC arms at not advertised and sold separately under normal conditions, instead they are sold in a kit for the HB only (NOT marketed for Pathfinders) and that kit gives a 1.5-2in lift, thus they reason they are listed as 1.5-2in. Again this is a "safe" range for them to market to limit blowback from people going higher and destroying ball joints. The typical effective "MAX" of our IFS's systems is actually 2.5, and even at that some have had BJ issues, whiles others have had little to know problems going further. Several members have back them down some after eating BJ and/or just to smooth the daily ride some. A little history, when we first discovered the RC arms as an option, you could only get them by calling RC directly and ordering "UCA's for a Hardbody" if you mentioned that you planned on installing them on a Pathfinder, some people found that they would not sell them to you. That is how I ordered mine, but over time I believe they eased up on that some. We have an UCA thread here where much of this info is contained (including the manufacturing flaw that was discovered) where we even tell members looking to buy to say HB and not PF when calling them.

See that is my whole point, you already HAVE those arms. RC and SL arms, structurally are EXACTLY the same. The ONLY difference is the final coating on them. SL zinc coats the arms they sell under their own brand name, while the ones sold under RC are powder coated. Having personally talked with a SL rep in the past (when they had a run of bad arms - documented here in the forums) they are made is the same fixtures.

Okay, so what arms are you going to buy for a 3" MAX lift?

I did read both and the following posts in the thread... but the arms are listed as 1.5-2in because that is a safe range for them to market them as to minimize wear on BJ and the fact that they sell them as a kit for Hardbody's that includes either Add-a-Leaf's or blocks (don't recall which, but iirc it's blocks) for the HB's rear leaf springs. The range limit of lift on the front is due to the design restriction of the IFS and operation angle range of the CV's, not the arms. Don't matter if you go with stock, AC, SL, RC or Cal UCA's, the actual limit is the same. What I am asking here, and really for your benefit (or the benefit of your wallet perhaps), is why you are selling the RC arms only to turn around and buy SL arms of the exact same design? Just trying to make sure that you know that the end result will not change in regard to function. And also, that changing the arms are not going to provide you with any "additional" lift range above and beyond what you already have after cranking the torsion bars. But what they will do is correct the BJ angles, which is something that the stock arms do not do with a T-Bar lift.

From Parts far Sale section: *the arms themselves do not provide lift, they simply correct BL angles when you do lift (by cranking T-bars) *Rough Country UCA's = Superlift UCA's with a different finish (Superlift manufactures them) From this thread: So let me see if I have this straight. Between this thread and the one you have in Parts for Sale... you currently have and are selling Rough Country arms and plan to buy Superlift arms to replace them? If that is right... Why? RC & SL UCA's are the same thing with the exception of the finish.

The are pretty easy to make... having said that I did not make mine, but mine was made by a member here who is no longer active and it's been on the truck for years with no problems. The one on AC is not expensive, can't speak for the construction though. Calmini arms correct angles just like SL/RC once do, but lots of people have complained about bushing failures with them in the past... and yeah, the cost, there is that. As Adam said, go SL/RC an call it good

iirc you want to get the 3.8L Taurus (dual speed) fan, which is what I run in mine. have had it in there for a very long time and other than a burned out controller, I've had no issues with it.