RedPath88

Shocks are made and available in many different lengths and even if they are not listed for your truck it does not mean that they will not fit. So if you know the lengths you want, check their site for a comparable one with the same mounting type or an aftermarket retailer (local or online.) The ones we often recommend to WD21 owners to gain more down travel will appear in no compatibility listings for our trucks.

Well the first thing you need to do is step back and take the time to learn about your Pathfinder's suspension design. Once you do you will find that the list of available options is smaller than the ones you mentioned above because some of those items cannot be installed on a WD21 as they are for completely different suspension system designs. Second, ask your self "why" you feel the need to replace them. Third, re-index them and see if that resolves your why's. Check the Garage > How-To's section for instructions. As for sway-a-way, use the tools provided on the website to identify parts that fit your vehicle, they only have one torsion bar model for WD21 Pathfinder's and D21 Hardbody's. If you do not see any tools, then use the full website, not the limited mobile version.

If you are buying from a family member then you should either know pretty much about how reliable this one aas been (often a direct result of how well it was taken care of... not just "said" it was taken care of) or you likely know people who can fill in the gaps for you. Another note about it is that it must not have been much of a problem, if any, since they have kept it for 11-12yrs, assuming it was purchased in late '03 or '04.

exposed

Never worry about reviving an old thread here at NPORA. Posting in an old, but related thread helps keep all the info in once place, which helps make searches for it easier. And even if the thread was made in '06, most all have much later recent posts in them #1 thing... DO NOT STACK BODY SPACERS! Use ONE spacer that is the CORRECT height. Second, what body spacers are you talking about? All I can imagine is that you are referring to body lift blocks because HB's (D21) do not use add in spacers, the mounts welded to the frame are different than those of a WD21. Alternator info found here... how to install a 90 amp alternator and/or here... How to install a 110 amp alternator in your Pathy Fan info: Several topics are available take a[nother] look around, but most people use an aftermarket fan controller, just because they are readily available, fairly inexpensive and easy to install. It does not matter how old the info is, if it's good, then it's good

Since it is for a different engine, don't expect it to be a simple bolt on (under hood plumbing). If it works out that way great, but go into it planning on some custom work adapting it to the VG intake.

Per report I deleted the duplicate thread. Please note that when using Tapatalk, you need to ignore the false errors that it gives you when posting. Just refresh your topic or post view and you will see the content that you submitted did in fact get posted to NPORA... no matter what crappytap tapatalk says And as for editing, you can edit for 10min following your submission of a post or new topic, but after that all desired edits must be done by submitting the requested changes (preferably as a complete quoted post) to a Member of the Mod team. We used to allow unlimited editing to Members, but because it was heavily abused by some, the restriction was put in place.

A difference in caster angle should be fairly easy to spot and measure site to side with the wheels off. Another thought would be to get some fresh eyes on it, if you have that option. Someone who has not been involved in it thus far.

There comes a point where you may find that you are just running in circles. May be it is time to replace the bushings, take it in for an alignment and see if they find anything wrong. It costs more initially but if you have, or get, a Forever Alignment from Firestone then paying again if you have to rework the cups (or anything else) won't be an issue. But having it professionally checked and adjusted may help expose any actual problems in the suspension.

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Given that there is no difference in the stock bushing cups I doubt it was a problem. I would compare measurements to another Pathfinder and see if it is the same. Also consider where you are measuring from when checking them. It would not be unreasonable for the brackets to actually be different side to side. So make sure the measurement point is common to both. Best possible point would be exactly as it is shown in the FSM. Ass for a Bent T-bar causing an issue with the lower control arm, I suppose anything is possible, but I think that would be unlikely. And even if it was the cause I would think that it the bend would have to be pretty extreme to effect it that much. A vary hard it, with a easily seen bend. At the point that the connect tot he LCA, they would not have much leverage against the LCA mounting points to "pull" the arm back.

Tapatalk strikes again! Please ignore error messages that it gives when posting. Just refresh the Post/Topic view and you will find that your content as been added. Post 4 & 5 above have been merged into this topic from the duplicate, as noted on each post. Remainder of duplicate topic has been removed.

Oh and you might find that whomever you buy from can or will ship directly. In the prior example they would not, so it was shipped to a US address then sent out from there.

You might check and consider check prices and shipping from the US... have done that for a member in NZ due to the high cost there Bought online + Shipped to US member + Shipped via USPS to NZ = Cash saved But there was a few more parts in the order.

I still say that the bearing race in question looks smaller than the other. Again that could just be due to the images and I know you said that they are the same part number... but just to make me feel better about it, did you actually compare the two side by side and back to back before installing? Could one have been the wrong race, in the right box?

unit6uas, By "body" I assume you mean "frame" Because a misalignment of the body is not going to effect the suspension, unless said "misalignment" was so great that the body was crunched down and into the patch of the suspension, preventing it from moving through it's full range... remember that WD21's are not UniBody, they are Body on Frame construction. RCWD21, No bad shocks are not going to cause a misalignment of the suspension nor the bushing to be pressed up and bulging out on one side.

Because it timing key begins to shear... or shear completely... it will allow the timing pulley to shift with a change in the timing. Or you could have them shear and the crankshaft keyways round out like this. Oh and the #1 recommendation to all new members, or those who just bought [another] VG3x Pathy is to change the timing belt unless you have rock solid documentation that it was recently done!

His is a 4cyl diesel with a chain

So your frame is damaged? How can the bracket be 1/8th in further forward? I suppose this could have been a manufacturing flaw, but given that these are built using jigs, I would question that based solely on no one else ever seeming to have this problem/cause. How did you measure to find out that the bracket is further forward? Look at FSM pages BF65-67 for more info on measuring the frame. Is it just possible that the LCA is sitting further back? Which is what I was implying as a possible problem before. I wouldn't changing anything about the current setup until you double verify the issue

yeah even the originals are not that great. The thread above talks about cleaning and tweaking as does the Common problems thread in the new members section. I did that a couple of times, but in all honesty that is a temp solution that may extend the life of an old switch a little, but not permanently solve the problem and eventually replacement becomes necessary. The best solution is to install the relays to move main power off or the swtich.

I don't know of anyone having used the aftermarket ones, I personally bought mine from a dealer. What's the going price on them? Since both are ebay, it's your money so what are you most comfortable with? Either way, a potentially cheaply made part from china or a used (possibly OEM) one that could have more usage than your current one. I suggest that in addition to replacing the switch you consider relay'ing your headlights to eliminate this issue in the future and give better overall performance in the way of light output. You can find info regarding both in The Garage > How-To's > Headlights Performing Poorly

Why do the races look like they are of different sizes? Maybe it's just the pic that makes them look this way, but the one in question looks smaller in both diameter and height. Have you measured them?

I don't doubt one bit that every attempt top align them right was taken, I just can't help but to think that the cause is somehow the alignment once assembled. with added pressure on just one side, "something" has to be out of alignment. To they eye everything may look right but just a single degree or even less depending on where could throw it all out of wack. And it really sounds like something is out of alignment. So the control arms bushing were uneven, or from under the truck (as best you can) do the arms look straight side to side and top to bottom? Maybe take some measurements of various points from a fixed location and see if there is a difference between the sides or even have the alignment checked by a shop?

Looking at the bearing races (from all possible angles), is there a difference in the angle they sit at? Basically, what I mean is it possible that one was not align properly when it was welded on and is now causing the bushing on that side to not seat properly all the way around.