RedPath88

Looking at the bearing races (from all possible angles), is there a difference in the angle they sit at? Basically, what I mean is it possible that one was not align properly when it was welded on and is now causing the bushing on that side to not seat properly all the way around.

I split this off of the "Common Problems" thread and moved it into it's own where you should find better exposure and hopefully more assistance

Yeah, your right, I skipped right over that

Yes you will need a TCM, but perhaps not the one from the R50 (96) I am sure others who may have more insight into such a swap will around to clearify this a bit more. But regarding the 88, I take it that this is a manual? If so then the ECU in it will not be able to control the transmission (via the module), you will have to find a replacement from a 2dr, TBI, VG30, WD21 with an auto trans (good time to get the TCU if needed as well.) There is a bunch of info regarding ECU's here, but to help you get started ECU Unit Although this thread is specifically about 4dr MPFI WD21's, it has info worth reading regarding ECU interchange.

Jumping ahead a bit here, just in case... but if cleaning does not work and you decide to look for another, say in a wrecking yard, do not limit yourself to Pathfinders. Look at other four door Nissans and Infinity's of similar era. When we rebuilt MrJim (a 1994), I was unable to find a good switch assembly in a Pathfinder and decided to give other vehicles a once over. Well I found a matching one in a car. I "think" it was a Maxima and iirc had a slightly different bracket or housing, but the switch assembly was the same, clear down to the connector.

yeah, just use isopropyl alcohol

Well first of all, Welcome to NPORA. Second, If you must use tapatalk, please ignore the errors that it gives you when posting. Refresh the post/topic view after you receive the error and you will see that your post/thread was in fact submitted. *goes to delete the other two identical threads* tapatalk sucks Now about your window problem. Does it work using the passenger side switch? If it does then pull the drivers side switch assembly out, make sure the connectors and fully seated. If they are then pull off the connector, clean the contacts and see if that works. Still not working? Take the switch assembly apart and clean the button contacts.

Congrats, that makes you at least the second person to do it

Not sure exactly what your asking here... Electric Fan swap? Yes of course, many people have. Quest e-fan swap? Not sure if anyone has ever used that one or not. Here is one of many results that you will find if you search for "electric fan" http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36769-electric-fan-question/?hl=%2Belectric+%2Bfan

Nothing beyond \/ If you look at the first post you will see that I edited it and fixed the link so that it now works as intended. The only reason I posted about it was to let people know that it had been corrected, and to try and stem the ongoing conversation about the links problem

*Original Post link fixed*

And just to be clear! ^This is ABSOLUTELY Correct!^ Even though I mentioned engine type, that was so that you get one from a matching truck. I am in no way saying or implying that different generations VG equipped ECM's will work, they won't.

I can't remember now but the parts guy that I worked with and I spent a long time going over info he had on the ECM's and we came to the conclusion that "to be safe" there was a key section of the identification number that had to match and iirc it was in addition to the MECM-vxxx number, though I want to say that the MECH number was just a year by year progression and may not be as critical as long as the key points mentioned below match. That info was posted along with these images, which was why I was trying to find the post and thread that I had the images in originally. But that portion of the discussion may very well have happened on the WD21Forums, which were basically a younger sister forum to NPORA, but has been gone for years now. Using that info I found a matching one in a wrecking yard, installed it and the truck fired right up and ran (without the miss) correctly for the first time in years. Based on the charts above there is no difference between 2WD and 4WD and I honestly would not expected there to be one. Four key points are Engine (VG, Z, KA), Intake (i = TBI, e= MPFI) Transmission (MT, AT) and Emissions Specs (FED and CAL for the US) But again and aside from the above, differences in years could play into it, thus the reasons why we identified the "safe route"

The ECM numbers here are interesting because a number of years ago when I had to replace mine we had this discussion, although it may also have taken place on the defunct WD21Forums as well because I posted the images seen below of an ECU print out that I got from the Nissan parts counter in Olympia, WA, but cannot seem to find them here now. Anyway, the V number on the ECU above does not appear on this print out at all. At first I though it was just due to 95's not appearing on the list, but if this was actually and originally from a 93, it says that there were more than this print out showed. Maybe Alkorahil can dig this info up and see if there was more than I was given, of it it's been updated since then.

I've bought from them a number of times and to date have not any problems. Since I have never received a bad or wrong part I can't speak to their customer service because I have never had to interact with them on that level. My only interaction with them beyond ordering on their website has been for NPORA and that is with their marketing department, which has never been a problem.

But you said "wheels" not "fix the flat" or "replace the spare" etc

Address any real problems first, like any mechanical issues and other functional needs before worrying about the minor issues like wheel preference.

I'm sure people may have accessory belt brand preferences, like Goodyear, Gates, etc maybe even line specific like Goodyear Gatorbacks. But honestly for me I have not had any problems with specific belts in a long time, brand name or store brands (Napa, etc) have all been reliable for me. Just make sure you get the pulley on right and the nut tight

The alternator pulley is missing? Or the water pump pulley and fan and fan clutch? So the best bet to get either would be the wrecking hard or check the Classifieds section here and see if any one is parting a VG30 (V6) WD21 Pathfinder or Hardbody (D21) out. You could also post in the Classifieds > Parts wanted section. Note that is also assumes that the Alternator output shaft and/or Water pump are in good condition so as to allow a replacement pulley to be mounted without any problems.

Belts the best place to start

Removed the roof rack so I could get it in the garage... prepping to address some of the leaks. PS comes first, it left a trail from the driveway into the garage. Scrubbed the concrete, suggestions on fluid stain removal on concrete?

Although I was still awake at 2 last night, when I posted that it was only 11:13 here

Moved to the 90-95 section based on your profile entry.

So you opened up the system? The glaring issue I see here is that you did not put a vacuum on the system once it was closed back up, which means you did not get enough back in. At the minimum, it's probably not going to cool as good as it should, and you likely have air and other contaminates left in it

Do it right, if your going to open up the system then have it properly purged before doing so, many shops do it and it does not take long. I don't know if 94's came stock with R134a, but it is possible that someone converted it in the past (unless your the original owner). And even though you have found the answer to your own question... yes, the compressor has a pressure cut off to prevent it from running when the system is to low. Along with the coolant there is an oil added to the system and that provides the lubrication for the pump. So if the level is to low then the pump risks damage if ran without proper lubrication. I converted mine quite a few years ago, reusing the same seals, just having the R12 evact'ed, added the R134a valve adapters, just before filling I put a vacuum on it myself to be sure (it had been a week or two since I had it purged), and then refilled with store bought R134a and oil (this was a kit that included the adapters, R134a and oil) but I also added stop leak and have had no problems. You could just pick up a can, top it off and see if it becomes a problem later. If it does, then deal with seals and such later, if not then you saved your self a bunch of time and money. If your system was R12 originally then you "should" have a sticker designating the R134a conversion over the original R12 sticker. You can also tell by looking at the high valves, if there is a screw on adapter on the welded on one then it's been converted.