MY1PATH

Did you forget that you were waiting? I sure did! Fooling the ECU is easy, I just did it this weekend. I believe the ECU is simply looking for continuity so any resistance should do. 1) After I went to bigger tires, I placed a simple on/off switch between the TCU and the Lock Up solenoid too keep it unlocked at low speeds. This worked great until I got on the highway and the TCU won't re-enable Lock up because open circuit triggers a code and disables lock up. 2) I made a dummy circuit between the TCU and ground to close the circuit. This is comprised of a 130 ohm resistor and an LED. Its always connected regardless of my switch position so there's never any break in continuity when I flip the switch. Now I have zero issues turning it back on when I get on the highway. A few things to take note of: -TC unlocked is 1v so LED is dim when TCU is not sending lock up. -TC locked is battery voltage so LED gets brighter when TCU is sending lock up. -The TC solenoid is 10-16ohms and my dummy circuit is about 10x as many ohms. There is zero concern of my dummy circuit robing any current for the solenoid's proper operation.

New Year showed up from Japan last week and I installed it today. 18t blue speedo gear 235/85r16 tires and 4.6 gears vs gps = 1.6% or .96 mile less for every 60miles, (based on a 12 mile drive) For reference, the 17t black Speedo gear was 4% or 2.4 miles less for every 60 miles (based on a 100 mile drive)

Amayama and Megazip are good next-steps when PartSouq comes up dry. They have multiple warehouses as well as some info on production cycles (due dates on out of stock items that are still in production)

I got tired of the clowns on Facebook telling me to check AutoZone so I reached out to Amayama this weekend. They previously had it at $36 for shipping alone. With that fixed, I placed an order. Partsouq UAE is my favorite but they did not have it this time. That's where I got my 16t speedo for the 3.70 differential...

I'm looking for a reasonably priced Blue 18 tooth speedometer gear assembly from an 87-93 4x4 pathfinder or pickup. Anybody have one kicking around in their parts bin? I've found some overseas but the shipping is outrageous and I do not live near any junk yards. I tried 17 &19 in my WD21 but they are too fast/slow, I need an 18.

HA! I didn't read the year, I thought this was 3 weeks ago. Keeping the previous post up for any that it may help in the future

Pump and cam turn half crank speed, they are both driven by a center idler gear shown in the video below.(not mine) 720 degrees by the crank gear = 360 degrees of the other gears because they have twice as many teeth and travel half the speed. Unless your other gears are off, ZZ should mesh with Z as your rotate past TDC compression. Are you experiencing a specific problem or just trying to be cautious? To check the other gears you need the whole timing cover off, engine TDC compression (both #1 valves shut) you should be looking for the matchmarks. "ZZ" to "Z" for the pump and ".." to "." for the others. There is only one way the pump gear can go on so the pump shaft will be correct once you do this. Video below makes it pain as day. Once the matchmarks are verified you need the timing cover on, crank pulley on and a depth gage for the back of the pump to measure the pump's cam plate lift at TDC. You rotate the pump body itself (not the gears) to adjust this to spec... Are you experiencing a specific problem or just trying to be cautious?

There may be some small gains to be had on an N/A engine but the real benefit is for heavily modified engines that require larger MAF and injectors than stock. Stock injectors can take you up to 200HP WD21 MAF appears restrictive BUT I have not measured any significant restriction on my cam'd 3.0. I have not tested a wd21 MAF on anything larger (yet) If you have a 3.3 swap and your vacuum gauge 0-3 HG under wide open throttle.

Idle timing adjustment now works properly. I have not tested it in "neutral" because I may have a bad neutral switch but I can bypass that to generate test results this weekend.

Here's a video I made showing the ECU and some screens inside Nistune.

Matt from Nistune is helping me iron out a few kinks since the d21 ECU is not something that's had a lot of attention before. Idle speed can now be adjusted based on engine temperature. - It did not take long for Matt to find this feature and make it available for tuning. - 900 idle yields better cleaner smog test results without exceeding maximum allowed idle speed - Really wild cams some times need up to 1100 idle for the engine to run smoothly Main Fuel maps and Main Timing maps do everything they need to. - This is the most important part, everything else is secondary I checked this first and everything for the main maps was good to go! We are troubleshooting idle timing adjustment. This may or may not get solved, most people will never need to touch it. - Stock idle timing of 15 degrees works fine for N/A vg30/33/34 or N/A engines with boost added. - Engines with compression ratios below 9:1 (for higher boost) need more idle timing to idle better. Unfortunately fuel trims cannot be reported with this ECU, nor can they be quickly reset. -For now, there's a % in the fuel trim boxes but they are not actual trims -Fuel trim reporting is mostly useful when swapping MAF or resizing injectors. It can be done without it just not as easy. There are countless other things that can be adjusted. -Most of them don't need to be touched and I'm not gong to bother listing them. -But if you are curious ask away! ...yes rev limits can be changed but I wouldn't take a vg above 6500rpm!

Its Working. Quick shot of some consult gauges and a very useful RPM triggered stopwatch. Without a dyno, repeated runs on a flat road with this stopwatch will tell you if your actually getting faster or not.

Sorry for your loss. How do you feel about a blue 2 door `89?

Hey its finally in the country! Now watch it take another week from LA to my door (2hr drive).