MY1PATH

There may be some small gains to be had on an N/A engine but the real benefit is for heavily modified engines that require larger MAF and injectors than stock. Stock injectors can take you up to 200HP WD21 MAF appears restrictive BUT I have not measured any significant restriction on my cam'd 3.0. I have not tested a wd21 MAF on anything larger (yet) If you have a 3.3 swap and your vacuum gauge 0-3 HG under wide open throttle.

Idle timing adjustment now works properly. I have not tested it in "neutral" because I may have a bad neutral switch but I can bypass that to generate test results this weekend.

Here's a video I made showing the ECU and some screens inside Nistune.

Matt from Nistune is helping me iron out a few kinks since the d21 ECU is not something that's had a lot of attention before. Idle speed can now be adjusted based on engine temperature. - It did not take long for Matt to find this feature and make it available for tuning. - 900 idle yields better cleaner smog test results without exceeding maximum allowed idle speed - Really wild cams some times need up to 1100 idle for the engine to run smoothly Main Fuel maps and Main Timing maps do everything they need to. - This is the most important part, everything else is secondary I checked this first and everything for the main maps was good to go! We are troubleshooting idle timing adjustment. This may or may not get solved, most people will never need to touch it. - Stock idle timing of 15 degrees works fine for N/A vg30/33/34 or N/A engines with boost added. - Engines with compression ratios below 9:1 (for higher boost) need more idle timing to idle better. Unfortunately fuel trims cannot be reported with this ECU, nor can they be quickly reset. -For now, there's a % in the fuel trim boxes but they are not actual trims -Fuel trim reporting is mostly useful when swapping MAF or resizing injectors. It can be done without it just not as easy. There are countless other things that can be adjusted. -Most of them don't need to be touched and I'm not gong to bother listing them. -But if you are curious ask away! ...yes rev limits can be changed but I wouldn't take a vg above 6500rpm!

Its Working. Quick shot of some consult gauges and a very useful RPM triggered stopwatch. Without a dyno, repeated runs on a flat road with this stopwatch will tell you if your actually getting faster or not.

Sorry for your loss. How do you feel about a blue 2 door `89?

Hey its finally in the country! Now watch it take another week from LA to my door (2hr drive).

I hate wait.

You you can order directly from Nistune website or you can talk to a more local Nistune vendor but they will need to source a special order board directly from Nistune Australia and make sure they know that.

Yes

UPDATE: I completed install on Friday but there was a communication hiccup and this daughter board will not connect to PC. There are a few vehicles that need "Special Order Boards" modified in-house by Nistune Developments, Australia The pathfinder is one of those vehicles. More info here: NISTune Tech Bulletin: Special Order Boards Looking like a week and some change for the Special Order Board to arrive.

no torque converter.

This is wrong, I have r33 GTR transfer case (ATTESA) in the garage. It uses a clutch pack in a basket/drum similar to a motorcycle clutch. A transfer case chain similar to the Pathfinders TX10 chain is attached to a basket/drum around the rear output shaft. The alternating clutch plates transfer torque from the rear output to the chain which then turns the front driveshaft. Instead of a clutch spring, an electric pump pressurizes a hydraulic system to apply pressure against the the clutch pack, its literally just a hydraulic piston. A PWM solenoid valve on the return line regulates the system pressure from 20~200 psi and this is controlled by the ATTESA computer. While ATTESA is an AWD system, it is a transferase system (not a center differential). The rear wheels are always powered regardless of how much torque is sent to the front wheels. Simplified: In a transfer case system, if you stop the permanently driven wheels then everything stops. But in a center diff system, if you stop ANY pair of wheels the other pair will continue to spin.

Spin an egg on the table, now stop it very briefly and let go... it will try to start spinning again because you stopped the shell but not the fluid inside. Moving parts next to other moving parts will translate some fluid friction. If its a clutch type engagement the moving parts are really close to each other so lots of fluid friction is translated over. This is actually how torque converters and viscous differentials work but the fluid energy transfer is maximized even more by way of specially shaped turbines. I've run out of time to go in depth, but in a nutshell I prefer manually shifted 4x4 for off roading vehicles and true AWD systems for street vehicles that may encounter adverse conditions. (r50/qx4 auto mode is not true AWD...)