Jump to content

kiwipete

Members
  • Posts

    627
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

kiwipete last won the day on May 19 2012

kiwipete had the most liked content!

About kiwipete

  • Birthday 07/23/1960

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Slightly modified, that's all you need to know........
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    Terrano R3m
  • Year
    1995

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    gummy_bear_nz2001@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/kiwipete/
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand
  • Interests
    4WDriving, Fly Fishing, Electronics, Computing, Home Carpentry, and a fast learning home mechanic to name but a few.

Recent Profile Visitors

6,588 profile views

kiwipete's Achievements

NPORA Old-Timer

NPORA Old-Timer (5/5)

23

Reputation

  1. I have had a further tinker with the simple latching relay circuit to energise the "solenoid lockup" from a momentary push button switch, and de-energise with the break pedal circuit. It works on paper. And here it is on the bench. Left switch and right lamp mimics the "lockup button" energised Right switch and left lamp mimics the "brake switch" energised Right lamp (lockup) energised via white lead connected to 12V as it would be when powered by ECU I am toying with a similar circuit to this that will be used to fool the ECU when the TC is open circuited as per the start of this post. This would involve a resistance so the ECU still thinks the TC is in circuit, thus no error codes. I have a little experimenting to do first.
  2. It could also be a crappy connection in the plugs too. Take them out and place a multimeter across each end of the wires and check for continuity to see if they have fused out or not.
  3. These auto transmission pdf files may help you? https://mega.co.nz/#!C8A0iAwA!esVTMUHXrjqzNe_66CW6b_pFiW66Gw5QhhPuLq4kil8 https://mega.co.nz/#!n4hGnBbK!ZsS3NZQPe4SlF68p5S7Nv1vqy0_A78L2pSPHhSdER1g https://mega.co.nz/#!78RASZoY!hFp71E05GCoc_tuUK-0O7pNY3vtO2ZvS3ZS-SKVQs8o https://mega.co.nz/#!7xxVSazI!wDaDjH8pUW-ISXp8gA88wR_04im9sSf2-au40biAapA
  4. I have the engine files here in pdf format but they would be too large to email. If you know somewhere I could upload them to I"ll do it.
  5. To check if you have a LSD; chock the front wheels and jack the rear so both rear wheels are clear of the ground. Turn one wheel by hand and observe the opposite wheel. If they both spin in the same direction then you have a LSD, if not then it's an open diff.
  6. I just used a small IN4001 diode for the test bench layout but I will get some power diodes from our local electronic parts store. http://www.jaycar.co.nz/products_uploaded/p600a.pdf Thanks for the insite too as I was thinking just going to go off the gear selector switches for the signals. 1st gear when in D probably would only be selected after braking therefore disabling the circuit? Still no harm in looking further into this all the same. Thanks for the input.
  7. Nath, I have tried this circuit on the test bench and it does in fact work, many thanks indeed. All I need to sort out now is the trigger input section where a feed from the 2 D or OD switch sense wires allows the above circuit of yours to be activated. I just do not want to have the manual over ride of the TC to happen any old time.
  8. I think you are on to something here Nath, You are a master of all things electrical I had not gotten around to testing my theories with a dummy set up, but will try to get out to the workshop today and test your theory. I think I have enough parts available to give it a try. I like the idea of a dual colour LED to indicate the state of the TC too.
  9. Yes I thought about a cooler with a fan too but I am not sure there is clearance for the fan between the cooler and the grille. Another thing I would have to be most careful about with the fan is remembering to turn it off should I be going through any water. Be a bugger to have the blades go through the core.
  10. Yes you are right about the LED, it was a quick slap up drawing, sorry. The diodes for 2 D and OD are to allow voltage to travel through the relay only, prevent voltage going back to the other selector wires. The same for the other two diodes, I only want the voltage to flow through to the T/C. The way I see it the ECU can supply 12V to the ECU at any time it likes, but with the relays there I can manually supply 12V to it too without the 12V I supply going back to the ECU. Does that make sense?
  11. I have revised my schematic drawing to show the trigger relay, this is to be powered by the sense wires from the gear selector switch. I have not yet tested this diagram, but will do so just as soon as I have enough parts available.
  12. The air gauge is still on the "to do" list when I redo the on-board air system.
  13. You could make something like this? [/url]">http://s195.photobucket.com/user/kiwi_pete/media/IMG_9049.jpg.html'>
  14. I have decided to start a new post on this topic. Now I know there is one from years ago on here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/999-cool-easy-auto-tranny-mod/, but my query has a slightly different twist. This "old" post mentioned cutting the wire to the TC to disable TC lock up, this in turn sends a fault code to the ECU and it then disables further TC lock up when the switch is closed until a reset with the ignition key has been actioned. What I am proposing to do is have the TC 'lock up" by activation of a switch, and deactivate by another switch (brake pedal). This deactivation is important because the last thing I want to do is stall the engine! There is some input already about this on my "members ride post" http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22195-kiwipetes-td27/page-17 but I thought I would also post here to get a wider audience and further input on the matter. I have tried the "unlocking" of the TC for towing my caravan (1700kgs) and it works great when in OD and travelling along the highway at 90kph, but the unlocking of the TC causes massive heat to be generated in the TC and I have subsequently destroyed one doing this. I did not think it would have gotten so hot seeing as I have an after market cooler in place. I am currently in the process of ordering a temp gauge for the AT oil and also thinking about getting a larger cooler too. With much toing and frowing I have settled on the following circuit, unless I find something better . I propose to use this circuit to "lock" the TC when in D by way of another relay being supplied by a diode from the D switch on the gear lever selector. My reason is that this would be a fool proof way of ensuring I do not accidentally press the "activation" switch and enable the TC lock up when in P, N, R 1 or 2 What I need is further input to see if this is indeed a viable way of achieving manual lock up of the TC when needed? It has been suggested to me that I simply drive it in D when towing on the highway, but at 90kph and pulling 3500rpm and being a diesel, revs = noise and almost zero acceleration.
  15. I have a pdf file here of the egr system, it shows what you have to dispose of ;-) PM me your email and I will flick you a copy if you need it.
×
×
  • Create New...