kiwipete

I have had a further tinker with the simple latching relay circuit to energise the "solenoid lockup" from a momentary push button switch, and de-energise with the break pedal circuit. It works on paper. And here it is on the bench. Left switch and right lamp mimics the "lockup button" energised Right switch and left lamp mimics the "brake switch" energised Right lamp (lockup) energised via white lead connected to 12V as it would be when powered by ECU I am toying with a similar circuit to this that will be used to fool the ECU when the TC is open circuited as per the start of this post. This would involve a resistance so the ECU still thinks the TC is in circuit, thus no error codes. I have a little experimenting to do first.

It could also be a crappy connection in the plugs too. Take them out and place a multimeter across each end of the wires and check for continuity to see if they have fused out or not.

These auto transmission pdf files may help you? https://mega.co.nz/#!C8A0iAwA!esVTMUHXrjqzNe_66CW6b_pFiW66Gw5QhhPuLq4kil8 https://mega.co.nz/#!n4hGnBbK!ZsS3NZQPe4SlF68p5S7Nv1vqy0_A78L2pSPHhSdER1g https://mega.co.nz/#!78RASZoY!hFp71E05GCoc_tuUK-0O7pNY3vtO2ZvS3ZS-SKVQs8o https://mega.co.nz/#!7xxVSazI!wDaDjH8pUW-ISXp8gA88wR_04im9sSf2-au40biAapA

I have the engine files here in pdf format but they would be too large to email. If you know somewhere I could upload them to I"ll do it.

To check if you have a LSD; chock the front wheels and jack the rear so both rear wheels are clear of the ground. Turn one wheel by hand and observe the opposite wheel. If they both spin in the same direction then you have a LSD, if not then it's an open diff.

I just used a small IN4001 diode for the test bench layout but I will get some power diodes from our local electronic parts store. http://www.jaycar.co.nz/products_uploaded/p600a.pdf Thanks for the insite too as I was thinking just going to go off the gear selector switches for the signals. 1st gear when in D probably would only be selected after braking therefore disabling the circuit? Still no harm in looking further into this all the same. Thanks for the input.

Nath, I have tried this circuit on the test bench and it does in fact work, many thanks indeed. All I need to sort out now is the trigger input section where a feed from the 2 D or OD switch sense wires allows the above circuit of yours to be activated. I just do not want to have the manual over ride of the TC to happen any old time.

I think you are on to something here Nath, You are a master of all things electrical I had not gotten around to testing my theories with a dummy set up, but will try to get out to the workshop today and test your theory. I think I have enough parts available to give it a try. I like the idea of a dual colour LED to indicate the state of the TC too.

Yes I thought about a cooler with a fan too but I am not sure there is clearance for the fan between the cooler and the grille. Another thing I would have to be most careful about with the fan is remembering to turn it off should I be going through any water. Be a bugger to have the blades go through the core.

Yes you are right about the LED, it was a quick slap up drawing, sorry. The diodes for 2 D and OD are to allow voltage to travel through the relay only, prevent voltage going back to the other selector wires. The same for the other two diodes, I only want the voltage to flow through to the T/C. The way I see it the ECU can supply 12V to the ECU at any time it likes, but with the relays there I can manually supply 12V to it too without the 12V I supply going back to the ECU. Does that make sense?

I have revised my schematic drawing to show the trigger relay, this is to be powered by the sense wires from the gear selector switch. I have not yet tested this diagram, but will do so just as soon as I have enough parts available.

The air gauge is still on the "to do" list when I redo the on-board air system.

You could make something like this? [/url]">http://s195.photobucket.com/user/kiwi_pete/media/IMG_9049.jpg.html'>

I have decided to start a new post on this topic. Now I know there is one from years ago on here http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/999-cool-easy-auto-tranny-mod/, but my query has a slightly different twist. This "old" post mentioned cutting the wire to the TC to disable TC lock up, this in turn sends a fault code to the ECU and it then disables further TC lock up when the switch is closed until a reset with the ignition key has been actioned. What I am proposing to do is have the TC 'lock up" by activation of a switch, and deactivate by another switch (brake pedal). This deactivation is important because the last thing I want to do is stall the engine! There is some input already about this on my "members ride post" http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22195-kiwipetes-td27/page-17 but I thought I would also post here to get a wider audience and further input on the matter. I have tried the "unlocking" of the TC for towing my caravan (1700kgs) and it works great when in OD and travelling along the highway at 90kph, but the unlocking of the TC causes massive heat to be generated in the TC and I have subsequently destroyed one doing this. I did not think it would have gotten so hot seeing as I have an after market cooler in place. I am currently in the process of ordering a temp gauge for the AT oil and also thinking about getting a larger cooler too. With much toing and frowing I have settled on the following circuit, unless I find something better . I propose to use this circuit to "lock" the TC when in D by way of another relay being supplied by a diode from the D switch on the gear lever selector. My reason is that this would be a fool proof way of ensuring I do not accidentally press the "activation" switch and enable the TC lock up when in P, N, R 1 or 2 What I need is further input to see if this is indeed a viable way of achieving manual lock up of the TC when needed? It has been suggested to me that I simply drive it in D when towing on the highway, but at 90kph and pulling 3500rpm and being a diesel, revs = noise and almost zero acceleration.

I have a pdf file here of the egr system, it shows what you have to dispose of ;-) PM me your email and I will flick you a copy if you need it.

That tube that goes from behind the fire wall to the manifold only needs the one end blocking off with a thin blanking plate such as you drew, then bolt it all back together, it is only to cut off the gas return. The hoses to the valves as shown in the pic near the battery are blocked off like was done in this pic. As for the wee hose from the air box, I believe this needs to stay as it has something to do with a valve that senses the vacuum for the brake light on the dash. Mine was connected in a different place and left off when the engine swap was done, it took ages to find the bugger to plug back in to stop the handbrake warning light to go off. Hope this helps a little.

No ESET NOD32 FF

Not wanting to thread jack your post, I thought I would place a link to my dual battery install on my WD21 so others can get another prospective on what can be done. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22195-kiwipetes-td27/page-7 Please direct comments on my install to my page and not clutter this one

OK; I unplugged the sender and turned the key on, no change of the needle. With the key on I grounded the wires. One side was the low fuel warning lamp wire, the first time I have seen this come on. There are 3 wires, one for the low fuel warning, a ground and the other for the variable resistor on the sender unit. Grounding the other side made the gauge reach the full mark. I turned the key off with the wires open and the gauge went to empty. I am suspecting there is nothing wrong with either the sender or the gauge and am beginning to think it may have been an ailen/gremlin in the system I sprayed the connector I seperated with contact cleaner and some silicone to prevent future water ingress.

You have done well there. Can I put some constructive critisim across please? I would make some serious straps to hold those batteries inplace; as snug as they seem now, immagine how they will be with some serious "Offroad Highway driving" please. Believe me they will try to lift off ;-) All I would change is the two mounting bolts for the solenoid so they face the other way. That'll stop the threads locking horns with the main studs should something go astray. Keep up the good work.

It has been suggested to me that I try the following, just in case someone else is interested. I will post up the results later tomorrow when I have a look at it.

Yep all good ideas and I will be doing as you have suggested this weekend. I am home alone this weekend.............

Thanks, I will look into the sender unit, but as I stated in the top post I have already disconnected this and it made no diference to the gauge at all? It is a wierd situation.

Hi there peoples, I have looked through the site and could not find a specific answer to my issue. I have a Diesel RHD 1995 Nissan Terrano with the rounded dash. After many years of faithful service the "old girl" is starting to fall apart at the seams. My fuel gauge has frozen in place. I noticed it was sitting just below the 1/2 way mark the other day and kept an eye on it. It stayed there for two days and I thought this was strange. I unplugged the cable from the sender unit (there is a plug in my harness on the right rear chassis that seperates this cable, looked at the gauge and it was still in the same place. It does not move when the ignition is off either. I filled the diesel tank just in case I was getting low and the needle went to the full marl, all be it very slowly, now it is stuck on full. Now, I know there has been an issue with some of the older trucks with a faulty voltage regulator on the cluster panel, but I am unsure if mine has one or not as no other gauges are affected. I can find very limited info on this on the net either. Should it turn out to be a voltage regulator, does anyone know what model/type it is so I can get one before I start? This weekends job is to strip the cluster panel out and have a look at it, but I want to know if anyone knows of a check on the fuel gauge wiring I should do?

It could be a "low" brake fluid indicator as well? Top up the fluid and see if this helps.