kiwipete

Message sent, many thanks.

Hello all, I have spent the past couple of nights Googling away trying to source a (free) workshop/service manual for a QD32T engine, but I have had no success. Does anyone know where I may locate one please?

Something to consider when installing CV boots is to spread out them slightly before you tie off the bands or cable ties on the small end of them. This prevents them from being bunched up too tight and rubbing against itself with the axle rotation which causes friction and heat buildup, weakening the boot.. In this photo the CV boot is bunched up at the top. I do not have a picture of the boot spread out sorry, but just pull it along the axle shaft slightly and tighten the band.

You can also use a "grey abrasive" eraser on the rings too to clean them up so they make bettrer contact with the pins too. Just wipe any eraser residue away with a cloth with meths on it.

For those asking for a photo, this is the best I can do sorry, it is of the original. I have yet to do this mod myself but I will take some pictures of it when I do; very soon.

Which is what I suggested right at the start of this thread.

I would suggest a relay or fuse has blown, more likley a faulty relay as the power goes through the switch first then the relay. The switch light is independant of the lighting circuit. Time to get a multimeter out and start working your way back from the lights to the switch. It is a simple method of elimination really. Also check your lamps are not blown. You are going to have to do a little homework sorry.

Are you using low ratio gearing?

Mine is a '95 TD27 auto with 33's and I have 4.88 gears. I have no problems with this combo.

You shouldn't have to remove the fender, just the inner liner. Be easiest to jack the truck and remove the wheel for better access. The flexy aerial will more than likley fit directly into the same hole. If you want the aerial in a diferent place, just cut the power motor wire where it comes out of the radio.

This confirms my suspision that the core is blocked. I had a similar issue with my TD27 recently. Check towards the end of my "members rides" post for the issue..................

It may have clean water in it, but as I said, take the radiator into a specialist shop and get the cores cleaned out, they get clogged over time. They will take the top and bottom tanks off and clean it properly for you. Can you not source the pads etc yourself from a brake shop and replace them, there is bno diference from petrol to diesel running gear there?

Get the radiator professionaly cleaned out inside first.

I hear you there, it is a simple water jacket type tube in the bottom of the radiator. I think it is more that the old radiators are full of crud and this maybe blocks the jacket?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22195-kiwipetes-td27/page__hl__kiwipetes__st__240

I have done the side marker and lisence plate lights and if I recall correctly the side marker are the same as the lisence plate ones. (didn't affect the flasher rate either.) I too am toying with the idea of doing the same as you too and I think Tex has done this conversion to his truck already.

Only if your truck comes with a potentiometer

My EGR is all gone too, but I have a sneaky feeling this is separate to it?

Pictures will help me understand what you are talking about, thanks.

Text is a tad small, it says; These two are tied together with a Y joiner, the other end goes to the back of the brake booster in the next picture. The green /yellow striped hose on the L/H (fender) side of the booster goes to the Y join in the above picture.

Mine being a RHD 95' x Japan had that switch blanked off, but the wiring loom was all there for the factory fog lights, which I have up and running by swapping out the blank for the appropriate switch. Some of the RHD ones do indeed have the headlight washer, but Nissan has been known to place the switches in different places. Another anomaly is where my Power/Economy switch is, it is in the console by the handbrake where I have seen some up near the steering column where the mirror adjustment switch is? There is no rhyme nor reason.

Wax; if you placed a washer behind the heads of those bolts, no one would know the holes in the power steering box had been slotted.

I think you will find the diameter of the spline holes are of a different size from the 91 to 95.

Can you post some before and after pictures please, maybe some pictures of the rubber profile too if you can?

Would you care to point out the side effects please?