kiwipete

It really is not that difficult to do, after all I just used a $15.00 grinder, cheapo electric drill and an aincent arc welder, 15+ years old. It was all done on my cobblestone drive, no drill presses etc here. Yes mine is the TD2.7 95' wide body model. I just installed an after market auto trans cooler too, mounted it in the front of the air con radiator as behind the radiator it only achieves 60% cooling. The only suspension mods were tweaking the torsion bars, longer travel shocks in the rear, new shocks in front and heavier springs in rear giving it a 2" suspension lift. There is a 2" body lift there as well. Next project, in a year....................... is 33" tyres and rims. I will have to do some simple guard mods for this though.

Yes there is about 1" of sag in the front. I will tweak the torsion bars sometime to get it back, then it a case of doing another wheel alignment. I think thre is about 70kg of weight all up in it.

I will measure it up in the comming week, when time permits for you. It really was a case of just cutting and welding as I went on.

Cheers 88.......... Im going to make some basic tube hoops from 50mm ID pipe to go from both sides , up to the bonnet catch area. A 30mm ID one across this hoop to stop one from walking into the aairlead and possibly a couple of side bars too, but im not sure about these. I just want something to hang the recovery strap off basically and to make it look finished. Will use some 50x50mm angle iron bolted to the sides to weld the hoop to.

Cheers guys for the praise. Just got to sort out the electrics now. The 3 short, (yellow, red and blue), leads to the winch from the solenoid need extending, but that will not be a problem as I work in the electrical industry (Linesmechanic) and have access to the cabe, crimp sleeves, lugs and heatshring. Want it operating by next weekend if possible for an advanced training day with one of my clubs. Would be nice to try it out with the New "Lan-Cor" http://lan-cor.com/about-land-anchors.php ground anchor that im buying for it.

All bolts are 8.8 rated and range from 10mm to 18mm in size. The 2x18mm ones are the rear ones, the rest of the mounting bolts are 12mm. Three on each side mount onto the chasis rail, (I used the factory mounting holes already there), and there are 4 to hold the tray in place on the side brackets. The winch itself is bolted on with 4x10mm bolts to the tray. This is what comes with it, it is not possible to use bigger ones here as the nuts recess into the winch feet.

Well I have finally got my lazy ass into gear and mounted my winch, the full thread can be found here. http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/viewtopic....=18&t=10222

Inside boot lining on right hand side above the rear wheel.

I will try to gt some pictures of how I got around the 6x9 issue on my Terrano, speakers on roof, tomorrow. Its an easy job to do without modifying the metalwork. Just a simple MDF spacer coverd in vynal.

Cheers GrimGreg, I will have another look at mine.

I agree with th others, it will not be the swaybar but panhard and controll arm bushings that are causing this swaying.

i had all sorts of heating problems with mine when the alternator was not working properly. ie. the guage ws showing cold. Replaced the alternator (reconditioned one) and temp guage worked a treat, but was still cold. Turned out I also had a dud thermostat.

This is what I have done for my front bumper brackets. This is for a 2" lift. Simply cut the irons and stagger the joins to suit your lift mesurement. I still have to add some extra bracing to my weld joins, which I will do when I install the winch, because the bumper has to come off again. Cut lines marked out. Bumper irons cut. Tack welded and waiting further bracing. Im going to use some steel strips 20mm x 3mm x 75mm, to fit in the recessions between the tac welds. This is looking at the rear bumper irons, un-modified. I am toying with whats the best option here as there are no extra holes on the New Zealand models for raising them. As well as this, my towbar is also attached here as seen by the two lower bolts.

Dont file the contacts with a steel file, use an old "grey pencil eraser" they type with a gritty texture. Rub the contacts clean with this then allpy contct cleaner. I would also be looking at placing 2 relays for the headlights in there too as the stalk switch takes all the load of switching the lights, Hi and Lo beams. There ar from memory 2 pairs of wires from the stalk to the lights, hence why one works and the other dosnt. Find the pairs and paralel them up on the relays, this way you have two pairs of stalk switch contacts operating one relay each. I will be doing this myself over the next month or so, as well as installing a 2nd battery for the winch and accessories, but thats another thread.

Rear windows only go part way down as you describe. The front windows go all the way down. I would look at the switch contacts on the switch pannel. Sounds like they are dirty to me. Also remove the lining from both front doors and check there is nothing bent or binding that is preventing them to fully retract.

When the funds allow, I will purchase the kit and get someone to make a rverse of the said bracket. Cheers for the advice. I take it the idler and pitman arms can be inserted either way up to reverse them, ie. ther is no silly tapers on them etc?

Thanks for all the replies guys. Can anyone confirm if I am right in my origonal post that I just need a mirror immage made of the idler arm brace to convert it to right hand drive? Our idler and pitman is on the opposite side to you guys.

I would love a pic of it please.

Go to your local exhaust shop and get them to bend you up some tube. PVC will cause you nothing but heart ache IMHO as it will surley crack and in gets the water.

Has anyone fitted one of these kits to their truck, I would like to hear just how good they are? http://www.purenissan.com/wd21_steering.htm We here in New Zealand cannot use the Hooha ones or similar ones as these centre links have been alterd/welded. That is not certifiable here. But to me there seems to be no reason to me why the Calmini one wont do the trick. The only drawback is it is not made for our right hand drive vehicles, but I think this is just a matter of making another idler arm bracket to suit our RHD, ie. a mirror immage of it. What do you guys think?

On the New Zealand models thre are two squirter motors. One for the front and one for the rear. Here you can see the two pumps, one on the top and one on the bottom. You may have a burnt out pump, unplug the wires and check for voltage when you switch them on.

Of course, you will be posting up pictures as you go too wont you?

The drive shaft hoop is there just to retain the drive shaft should it pop off the front end. Retains it so it wont make a hell of a mess underneath, and if there wasnt a cross member under it, it would also prevent it from dropping to the road, digging in and tossing the truck over. I have seen this happen many years ago with a car as it was passing me on the highway. I dont know who got th biggest fright, me or him. All of a sudden this car was beside me, then it launched itself like a rocket! Those "Airflow" pics are of an ex shop here in Christchurch NZ, must have been the NZ agents for them. If I was ever to replace it, I would go for some professionaly bent exhaust tubing, powder coated black as these ones look so much nicer. The airflow does not fit so well along the guard and inside the guard. I had to have mine re-sealed inside the guard 3 times.

Well done

Its an "Airflow" snorkle, made in Australia I believe. Completed a couple more mods left over from the lift. Lngthend the driveshaft hoop and fitted a Calmini Idler Arm brace. I had to trim a little material from the brace as it woud not fit. As well as removing the washer from the bottom of the Ider Arm as when it was re-instlled there was insufficient thread for the nut.