kiwipete

Thanks for that, I have seen most on Ebay while trawling, it is just the freight that is putting me off at this stage; that's the killer buying parts from the USA. I have some other options up my sleeve too.

I have a nice shiney new 2wd centrelink sitting here now, I just hope the ball joint tapers are correct for my Pitman and Idler arms. Now to source the inner and outer tie rods and adjusters and I am sorted.

Thanks guys, I have a 2WD centrelink here, it's been stored out the back for some time. I took it to work today and waterblasted it. Seems the ball joints on it are naffed, two are siezed and the others look very rusty so I may have to scrap this until I source a new one. Or see if I can get the ball joints replaced at a reasonable price.

Pity the seller does not ship to New Zealand, I will keep searching............................ Here we can only get the original Nissan ones and aftermarket one of a brand that I do not know of. I keep wearing out the ball joints on my TRE's, that's why I am looking for a heavier duty one.

Or do something like this, just 2x18mm thick MDF spacers and some vynal covering. Bolt the spacer to the roof and a new 6x9 speaker to the spacer and you are done.

This is 2 Thule racks joined together to suit my needs. I do not have a sunroof. You could just as easily use one rack over the hump as you suggest. Don't worry too much about what other people have used, just find something that looks nice in your mind and go for it.

Do you have a link to them on Ebay at all? (just so i'm sure to get the correct ones)

Yeah, im chomping at the bit to see this finished too. I have a 2x4 linkage set here, has been sitting out the back for a couple of years now. I am looking at starting this mod for my truck now. Just have to source some new outer tie rods and adjusters so I can get them retapped without having to take the truck off the road. I might go for factory Nissan outers as they lasted 13 years on my truck before I had to replace them. The aftermarket ones available here wear out too fast for my liking.

Yerp, she's got 33's under her now!

what a great truck

While I cannot help you with your symbol question, I do like the digital clock and trip meter you fellas have on the bottom L/H and R/H corners of your dash layouts. Mine is very much the same, being a diesel, and has blanks in the two areas I question. Humph..........

You may have a dodgy earth connection from the relays, a broken wire somewhere or loose plug connection. Best you get voltage meter and start tracking from the relay back. Disconnect the source (feed) wire from the relay and track from there.

That's OK, please let me know what postage will be when you can, thanks.

Is there any chance of doing a 2" drop bracket as well?

Hmm, what drop is this for? 2" suits me.

Probably 5 at this stage at a guess?

Probably 5 at this stage at a guess?

And of course the cost to post some to New Zealand

Think about the principle of the unit and my answer would have to be no. Air entering from the outside of a vehicle via a decent snorkel is always going to be cooler than air being sucked in from inside the engine bay, no matter what unit you use. Stick with an external snorkel and proper hat, as the hat helps disperse rain particles from entering the pipe and you won't go wrong.

Might be something in my build thread? My link If not I will see if I can find something for you.

Being an Aussie truck we have one of the same :-) One end attches to the centre link as you said and the other to the passenger (L/H) chassis rail near the idler arm mounts. Here you will see two holes, one above the other, where the dampener pin mounts. I had to get this pin from Nissan, but the dampener was just a common one listed for a Terrano. Hard to see as everything is black except for a rusty washer looking part of the dampener, where it mounts on the pin.

Keep it on there, it is a noise suppressor.

When I had my fuel pump tweaked last weekend the guy just adjusted the mixture screw at the end of the pump and adjusted the idle. He did not remove the pump, manifold or any other parts. It goes like a rocket ship now too with 17Psi boost. The only time my pump was removed was when they reconditioned the "O" rings in it. I will troll through those links at a later stage. BTW, most links appear broken in my browser.

Yes I agree.

Yep, that's the same hooks we commonly use here. BTW I have long travel shocks on my rig, no issues with them falling off, no issues with drive shaft binding and I made simple drop down brackets for the handbrake cable brackets too.