kiwipete

For the foot well lighting, if you use LED's you will not need a relay. Just tap into the dome lighting wiring somewhere and run with that. I like the idea of foot well lighting, I have work to do now. If a rear view mirror with lights fits, where is the problem? My 95 truck has 2 map lights in the rearview mirror and I have recently swapped out the stock lamps for LED's, same with the dome light and boot light. What a huge diference that has made.

All I can suggest is you sit down and do some serious "Googling" as that's where I found my Diesel engine manual. It took a while, but it was worth the trouble in the end.

Is it a lot different from the 94, 95 years as I have them?

Took me 5 seconds! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26616

The only trouble with that arrangement I see is if you go through water, it will enter the cabin area and kick start that dreaded rust issue. I used a similar idea in that I used some marine grade vinyl. This I formed into a cone shape similar to the original rubber one. I glued and sew the joining seam and siliconed it between the metal plate and the body. Where it went around the shaft, I siliconed and used a couple of cable ties to secure it in place. The vinyl is inside out so to speak so the cloth is inside, making it less likely to rot. Been like this for over 3 years now without a sign of a leak.

Factory driving lights on mine.

Yep. Mine is really tight, spins both 33's up on the pavement no problems. And its a 2.7 Diesel.

#5 Nissan Z300 LSD will fit the front with a small modification.

Well done, you have learned well my son. lol Saved yourself a lot of headache and hassles too, and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

I replaced all mine with the LED types, am presently working on the indicators and tail lights. The dome LED's give out a much nicer light IMHO. Mine were 4x6 rows of LED's and the map reading ones were smaller at 3x5 from memory. Edit..... I must take a picture of the install too as I had to mod the map lights a little, but it wasn't rocket science. The LED's I used were on a small board, larger for the centre and boot light, and had the appropriate ends on the wires for 3 types of sockets to fit where you want them; bayonet, push in and tubular.

Why would you bother? anyway, just disconect your power steering belt and see for yourself how bloody hard it is, lol

Same, I ripped mine off! Now I have a custom 5mm steel one fabed, won't bend that bugger.

[rant on] You really need to read what people type before you comment. I mentioned "plastic" not "ABS" and for a bloody good reason too. I only said 3" diameter as that's what the diameter of the hat is that's on the top of my snorkel, use what ever size suits your needs, it's only a guide line I suggested. If I do remove my POS ABS plastic one, it will be replaced with 3" steel, the more air rammed down it the better, even if it reduces at the intake end. [/rant off]

Feel free to share any info you find in my thread. I'd love to remove my moulded plastic snorkel and replace it with a fabbed steel one, I just might do it one day soon...............

I have to add a comment here. IMHO the only decent way to fab a snorkel is to go to your local exhaust shop and get some 3" steel or stainless tubing bent to suit. It may be ok for you guys with petrol engines to get some water in the motor but us with diesel's are @!*% scared of water. One teaspoon is enough to hydraulic an engine, trashing it. Your plastic fabs are ok, but again they will not stand up to any type of abuse. Run the tubing out the guard at a suitable place to minimise bends, along the guard and up the pillar, finishing off with a proper snorkel hat.

Yep, you got it. ;-)

Glad you have it sorted.

Mine is the TD2.7 Diesel, but the positioning should be similar to the V6 petrol From the battery the ground cable runs along the fender to behind the power steering reservoir as in this picture. It has a clamp type bracket around the bared section of wire with another grounding wire in the same place. Then it runs across to the manifold where it is terminated to the engine block as shown thus.

My rims are 15x8" and the tyres are 33x12.5. No problems there at all with fitting.

Thanks with the compliments re my rig, I am a bit of an electrical enthusiast, but I am always open to ideas and suggestions. As you can see from those pictures I posted with mu light plugs, the black (ground wires) are NOT the centre wires as far as the pin configuration is concerned, as is shown when you look at the one I opened up after putting in the heavy duty wiring. I think this may be a misconception as most see this black (ground) wire going into the centre of the plug and making an assumption it is the centre pin from there. I would strongly suggest you have a good hard look at your wiring and try too do something similar along the lines of what I have done, you will not be disappointed. A small selection of wire (1.5 diameter), heat shrink, two 10A fuses (waterproof), two relays, crimplugs and some tools is all it takes. Heat shrink all wire joins after you have soldered the wires, remembering to slide the heat shrink on first, been there, done that too.... Please do not twist and tape the wires together, you will be asking for trouble. Do it once and do it properly I say. G'luck. Just as a foot note, I paralled the wires together at the old light sockets and made a new harness for each socket via the new relays. with a simple voltage meter you can work out which is the HI and LO beam wires in each side and then just pair them up. Same goes with the ground (black) wires too.

So, you are after some of these? Plenty available here in good old NZ. Mine are 15x8 with -19 offset, most seem to go for the -24 offset. Just std 6 lug pattern.

Yes the switch has 2 sets of contacts on it as has been covered many times before. One set does the LH side, the other the RH side. This is why some people complain of one side or the other not working as one or the other contact has worn or corroded etc. I bridged my "pairs" up at the light harness near lights themselves and added new relays to operate both Hi and LO beams. I have not had any issues to date with this modification. I include a wiring diagram here in this message that "may" be of assistance to you. Lighting circuitry Rewired socket RH socket LH socket Wiring relay to lights Hope this helps some, search my posts, I have a thread on here about the above mods.

Perhaps you could contact your local Nissan dealer as there is a special tool that is used to adjust the front ones, maybe there is one for the back too? I have only used a needle on the front, haven't had to adjust the rear yet.

I'm just guessing here but cant you use a needle to move nozzle jet like you do for the front ones?

Check with TerranoNZ He is doing the rear seal as we speak. He will let you know=w the inns and outs of the process.