kiwipete

Nice mod there. I have the same dash in my Terrano, but have placed a PRS FM base radio in there instead.

I might just grab those spare links off you please, it has been suggested that I try to get the certifier to ammend the cert for no front swaybars. At least the rears are easy enough to modify.

As long as the Bottom A arm section of the bolt and the swaybar part too, does not come into contact with anything as the suspension moves when it is all disconnected?

The only thing that worries me with your set up Dave is the bottom section hanging down. i'td get knocked about a bit wouldnt it, or do you discon both sides and hang the bar up somehow? I thought only one side of the rear needed disconnecting? What plans have you for the front?

Somehow I don't think i'd get away with that either, humph. I get better flex without the bars all the same. That would have to be one hell of a pin with the loads placed on it, wouldnt it? Better to sleeve it, and place a fake pin in it so it just looks like its pinned, he he he, now there's a thought.......

Well I have had to re-install my sway bars because I failed a WOF with them removed. Now, I want to be able to continue with the excellent articulation I get without them so I am thinking of making some disconnecter's for them, saving me the hassle of fitting them back in place every 6 months for the WOF. The rear ones are easily enough modified by cutting the shaft, sleeving it and welding the sleeve to one half, assembling the unit, drilling and pinning it together. The front ones are going to be harder to work out. As you can see by the pictures below there is not much length of the connecting bolt to work with. What suggestions do you guys have for me here please? edit, fixed photos up.

I'd like to see pictures of this.

Both please.

Have you any pictures of the front setup at all, from underneath?

I really do not see why people are obsessed with removing weight from pathies. They are a truck not a sports car. Hell I have put 100's of pounds of extra weight in and on mine with all the recovery gear, tools, winch, roof rack, skid plates etc etc and hardly notice a difference. Mind you mine is a TD27 so I spose the diesels have a bit more pull lower down. Sure braking takes a little longer with the weight, but it is a truck.

I think you will find the "spoiler" is for forcing air over the back window to keep it clear of dust etc when on dirt roads. Not for aerodynamics. Come on, think about it?

No, the alternator runs all the time, It does not switch on and off like an air con pump does.

Your alternator, is not going to fry anything. It is rated at 180 amps. This means it will be able to supply up to 180 amps to any circuit that draws tha many amps. It only puts out the std 13.8 volts. You will most likely be only drawing 30ish amps from your fan and lights so that is all the alternator will be supplying. I have a stock std 70 amp alty on my TD27 and it is more than enough to supply charge to 2 batteries as well as the winch and 5 driving lights. I draw with calculations, 43 amps with the driving lights alone so there is sufficient amperage left over to charge batteries etc. I would not use the winch with the lighting running all the same. I have run this scenario through with my local auto sparky and he has no issues with what im doing.

OldSlowReliable and Trenton163. As per the above postings, have you checked the fluid levels in the brake reservoir? You may find that it is getting low.

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That is exactly what mine did, came on when cornering. The resivour seems to have a sensor in it and will put the handbrake light on when it is getting low.

Low brake fluid is my guess, it happened to me recently too.

This is all that was necessary for me when I did my 2 inch body lift.

I too would like to see some nice side on picks too, please. Both the front and back guards.

Try the search feature on here too, do some research, then ask away.

That's quite normal for a lot of Pathies/Terranos. Mine is in the rear side panel however. I never did find an amp in the front, even after all the local radio specialists advised it was there. I simply ran new wiring for my sound system.

When I had troubles with mine, showing the same symptoms, it was the clutch in the starter. They have a habit of doing this. It prevents the starter from engaging properly.

Love to hear where you get after market headlights from for these trucks. The originals are a PITA IMHO. the rubber boots at the back of them do not seal properly. I have tried to silicone grease mine to prevent water ingress. I have even placed a silicone rubber tube in the breather part, siliconed it in place, and ran the tube to a small plastic container with those gel beads in it that absorb water. It has helped, but still the water gets in.

That looks so cool, can you post where you got the LED's and what type they are?b They look like Hi density blues as used in many car alarms. How hard is it to get the cluster out?

Ok, I have thought about replacing the small lamps that illuminate the switches on the dashboard and doors etc, with miniature LED's. My thoughts on this are that the miniature LED's are readably available and last for years, where the miniature lamps in the switches have a limited life and are near impossible to obtain. Has anyone done this?