kiwipete

Just make sure you can remove the filler bung before you remove the drainage bung; like you would do with your diff.

My '95 just had a plastic type belly plate that covered that area, I soon lost it and made my own skid plate.

I dont know if this is too late for you, but here is what I did to run the wiring for my roof rack lights. Here I took the wiring loom out from the back passengers door wiring bung. It was a very tight fit as I used heavy gauge trailer wiring in my set up as I am drawing over 45 amps with all 5 lights running. 7 core wire was used with one to each light, an earth and a spare that was used for reversing lights at the back of the rack. Where the wiring runs up the pillar, I used some black double sided ultra sticky rubber tape to hold it in place, then a layer of black duct tape over it for aesthetics. A heat gun was also used to mould the wiring harness first and where the top of the door is I took the sheathing off, flattened the wires out and put some heat shrink over here. On the roof I have used a flat trailer plug to allow for future removal of the rack should it ever need removing. All this may be an over kill, but I do not like the idea of drilling holes in the roof. Yes I had to to mount the roof rack, and used RTV to seal each one.

I'm looking at replacing mine too, but we here in New Zealand don't have a supplier of these wee bulbs. I am however going to try small 12V LED's instead.

Yes, but remember when push it through disconnect the hose from both ends. Last thing you want it a blocked nozzle. A small sewing needle clears the nozzle jets.

And one crazy Kiwi as well. We have used a tank from a GQ Patrol, but as it turns out it is the same size as my WD21; however I think there is someone who may be able to cut it for me and add another 2 inch strip into it, giving me about an extra 20L Diesel. My tank std is 80L. With my truck the GQ tank fits bolt for bolt, just the wiring plug is different, but that's an easy fix too.

Oh do lighten up, it was a joke !

Or passenger side if you drive a RHD truck

Use the facility on here first, then when you are stuck ask some more. This topic has been covered many times on here.

Cmon, think about it. The TD42 has an extra 2 cylinders, where are you going to hide them?

Petrol or Diesel; Its like the old "Ford"/"Holden" or "Toyota"/"Nissan" argument. Each to their own at the end of the day. They all have their merits, good and bad.

I recall a similar post on another forum recently and my answer remains the same. The 2.7TD is so under rated. It has heaps of low down torke and IMHO will do just as well as the V6 models in the sand, mud or what have you.

^^^^ what he said ;-)

Those hard rubber garden edging strips will rip mu guards to bits should I make contact with a clay bank or deep rut. That is precisley why I asked about the moulded rubber flares thanks. Its worth paying a little extra for something that will have some give. I broke one of the original flares and that caused damage to the fender, garden edging wont be any different IMHO.

Let us know how you get on with airing down your tyres with the next sand crossing. Don't thrash it, just keep a stady speed and pace and you should be right.

Morning Kiwi's. I have posted this in the Aussie section too and will also ask here for your input. I am after some reasonably priced flare rubber to replace my plastic flares I have removed. I am gett ing some new Maxxis Bighorns (33's) and need the extra fender clearance, hence removal of the plastics was necessary. Have any of you sourced or seen anything suitable? I really like the Bushranger type with the steel reinforcing wire in them, but they are way too expensive.

If any of you Aussie cousins have taken off your plastic fender flares and used something like the Bushwacker rubber ones, can you please post some pictures of them? I have just removed the plastic flares from my 95 widebody to accommodate some 33"buckshots and need rubber flares.

Yep, what he said. Get yourself an air compressor and air down your tyres before crossing the soft sand to about 20PSI. I used to regularly run my tyres at 27PSI both on and off road. They are Savero AT's and have done well in all conditions. More power is not the answer on soft sand at all, you need steady revs and pace. Blasting the sand away just digs it in deeper, believe me, been there done that. What tyres are you running? Air compressors are cheap at Supercheap, or shop around. Don't know if you have Supercheap in Aucks.

Depress the clutch or place into neutral if an auto. This takes the engine braking etc off the rear wheels and allows you to gain steering control of the vehicle.

The Kiwi trucks (wide body) look like this, ex Japan of course.

Yes please I'll be in for that for sure.

Might I suggest that those of you having issues with 31 inch tyres, look at your sagging old suspension? As many have said, their trucks came with 31's from factory like mine did with no issues.

:search: and again.Them when you cannot find what you are looking for, feel free to ask away.

Don't forget to post pictures up of the new one too.

This was coverd in another post recently. I have one and posted the faults as I saw them when mine was fitted. At the end of the day you cannot beat getting a steel tube bent by your local exhaust outfit at well under half the cost. I think mine cost me NZ$450 then there was the fitting cost, because my truck was under warranty at the time. I can get a steel tube bent for NZ$170 and fit it myself.