Backpacker

Also, Nicoclub won’t list a 1987 pathfinder service manual. Pick the 1987 pickup truck manual. The manual will cover all the 2 door pathfinder specific stuff as well. They only made the manuals specific for pathfinder after I believe it was 1990.

How was the wiring and connector? Something I figured out when I did my coolant temp and pigtail repair: you can sneak a deep well socket on the sensor, then stick a large flat blade screw driver right under the timing cover into the square drive on the socket at a sharp angle and remove the sensor using pliers on the screwdriver and replace it without removing anything. I would disconnect the battery for some time then go on a decent drive to let the ecu do it’s thing and recognize the new sensor if you haven’t already. If that doesn’t do it, go through the test procedures in the service manual for the ECT code. Do you have a service manual? You can download them from Nicoclub forums.

Are you sure the old fluid wasn't shot or the wrong kind? If it were me I wouldn't risk it. People get many miles out of those transmissions with properly rated GL-4 and good maintenance schedule. Not all transmissions are the same. It will definitely feel like it shifts smoother with the thinner stuff in it but that doesn't mean its lubricated right. I would look into the type of ATF your using and at least make sure it wont react badly with the yellow metals in the transmission like the synchros.

Nice I will have to order one then. Also I think I was wrong above, it wouldn't cause a vacuum leak because it's before the throttle body.

I've never searched for the hose before, but you can measure the inside diameter (ID) and just search " whatever the ID is" 90° hose and anything close to the size should work. Honestly I'd go slightly bigger if you can find and use some tighter hose clamps, it's in such a tight spot, the only part I hate about removing the intake. Mine cracked pretty bad several years ago, I have it just taped up so it's a looser fit and haven't had any problems. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure it goes in before the filter anyways so if any dirt did get past wouldn't be a big deal, could still cause a vacuum problem though. I can figure out the thread tomorrow, my truck is at work under repair, I can yank it and see what thread pitch it is and let ya know.

You have to torque the bearing down to spec, loosen, them make it hand tight.

Two screws on the throttle body. One is horizontal and controls the base idle, you can adjust it easily with the truck running. There is also the fast idle screw, It points upwards at an angle and controls the idle speed before the truck is warmed up. You have to push a screw driver into it hard enough that it opens the butterfly valve pretty wide to get it to turn, otherwise you can't get the screw driver on it without removing the air filter housing because the angle it points at with the throttle body valve closed. Adjust it with the truck cold and off, then start the truck and see if it's where you want it. Rinse and repeat till satisfied. I have mine set around 1100 cold and 800 warm.

Here's the link and some shots with the first prototype on my truck. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/15l-NlSyDP_i69i3zcxD7mja0w7wJcLhy?usp=sharing My printing skills aren't the best so it turned out not so well first try, but a professional could probably make a nice one. Here's what it looks like on the truck. https://imgur.com/a/JhC1wid

Take a look at your rear control arm bushings. When they get really worn it can make driving in a straight line difficult.

The full Rough Country D21 lift kit fits. You'll be tossing the shackles and have to buy coil springs separately, but the shocks do just fine. I've been running them for 3 months now and put maybe 5000 miles on them without issue on 3 inches of suspension lift.

Check the lower control arm compression rod mounts on the frame. They wallow out the metal. Easily fixed (but a pain in the ass) if you own a welder. I've never really had a hard time finding any part in store or online or through junk yard for my 1989. Look up "fS5R30A TSB", it's for the transmission info. There is a picture of the drain plugs to compare. Unless they had the trans case replaced at some point, it will have the lower fill plug that won't fill it enough. To see if it's had the proper amount of oil with the lower fill hole, just pull the fill plug and if a quart of trans oil comes out they had it filled correctly. To fill it, easiest way is to remove the shifter and fill it to what the TSB says. I think it's 5.1 liters

For future readers, TBI injectors should be around 1.5 ohms. I've tested good injectors at 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 values in the past. The 1.3ohm died a year later after lots of aggressive driving. I had a bad one that was only 0.9 as well. Always check that first if you suspect a fuel problem, the connector is right on top and super easy to reach.

Not a whole lot you can do but you can definitely get some more from it. Here's a build someone did to give you some ideas. https://motoiq.com/category/projects/nissan/pathfinder/ *merged posts -RedPath88

Thanks Red, I'll make sure to post when I make the doors.

My moon roof glass broke and I need a replacement for my 1989 pathfinder before the monsoon season starts. I'd also like to pick up a spare set of doors to modify into half doors. Although there are a ton of wd21's in scrap yards around me, none of tem are two door pathfinders. I've seen some pathfinders with the removable sun roofs (don't remember what generation) but they looked like they were larger. Are there any wd21's or d21's with the same size sunroof? Are there any pathfinder or pickup doors that are the same size as the 86'-89 pathy's? Thought I read somewhere that the tw doors had longer doors than the 4 doors.