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Backpacker

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Everything posted by Backpacker

  1. Are you sure the old fluid wasn't shot or the wrong kind? If it were me I wouldn't risk it. People get many miles out of those transmissions with properly rated GL-4 and good maintenance schedule. Not all transmissions are the same. It will definitely feel like it shifts smoother with the thinner stuff in it but that doesn't mean its lubricated right. I would look into the type of ATF your using and at least make sure it wont react badly with the yellow metals in the transmission like the synchros.
  2. Nice I will have to order one then. Also I think I was wrong above, it wouldn't cause a vacuum leak because it's before the throttle body.
  3. I've never searched for the hose before, but you can measure the inside diameter (ID) and just search " whatever the ID is" 90° hose and anything close to the size should work. Honestly I'd go slightly bigger if you can find and use some tighter hose clamps, it's in such a tight spot, the only part I hate about removing the intake. Mine cracked pretty bad several years ago, I have it just taped up so it's a looser fit and haven't had any problems. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure it goes in before the filter anyways so if any dirt did get past wouldn't be a big deal, could still cause a vacuum problem though. I can figure out the thread tomorrow, my truck is at work under repair, I can yank it and see what thread pitch it is and let ya know.
  4. You have to torque the bearing down to spec, loosen, them make it hand tight.
  5. Two screws on the throttle body. One is horizontal and controls the base idle, you can adjust it easily with the truck running. There is also the fast idle screw, It points upwards at an angle and controls the idle speed before the truck is warmed up. You have to push a screw driver into it hard enough that it opens the butterfly valve pretty wide to get it to turn, otherwise you can't get the screw driver on it without removing the air filter housing because the angle it points at with the throttle body valve closed. Adjust it with the truck cold and off, then start the truck and see if it's where you want it. Rinse and repeat till satisfied. I have mine set around 1100 cold and 800 warm.
  6. Here's the link and some shots with the first prototype on my truck. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/15l-NlSyDP_i69i3zcxD7mja0w7wJcLhy?usp=sharing My printing skills aren't the best so it turned out not so well first try, but a professional could probably make a nice one. Here's what it looks like on the truck. https://imgur.com/a/JhC1wid
  7. Take a look at your rear control arm bushings. When they get really worn it can make driving in a straight line difficult.
  8. The full Rough Country D21 lift kit fits. You'll be tossing the shackles and have to buy coil springs separately, but the shocks do just fine. I've been running them for 3 months now and put maybe 5000 miles on them without issue on 3 inches of suspension lift.
  9. Check the lower control arm compression rod mounts on the frame. They wallow out the metal. Easily fixed (but a pain in the ass) if you own a welder. I've never really had a hard time finding any part in store or online or through junk yard for my 1989. Look up "fS5R30A TSB", it's for the transmission info. There is a picture of the drain plugs to compare. Unless they had the trans case replaced at some point, it will have the lower fill plug that won't fill it enough. To see if it's had the proper amount of oil with the lower fill hole, just pull the fill plug and if a quart of trans oil comes out they had it filled correctly. To fill it, easiest way is to remove the shifter and fill it to what the TSB says. I think it's 5.1 liters
  10. For future readers, TBI injectors should be around 1.5 ohms. I've tested good injectors at 1.3, 1.4, and 1.5 values in the past. The 1.3ohm died a year later after lots of aggressive driving. I had a bad one that was only 0.9 as well. Always check that first if you suspect a fuel problem, the connector is right on top and super easy to reach.
  11. Not a whole lot you can do but you can definitely get some more from it. Here's a build someone did to give you some ideas. https://motoiq.com/category/projects/nissan/pathfinder/ *merged posts -RedPath88
  12. My moon roof glass broke and I need a replacement for my 1989 pathfinder before the monsoon season starts. I'd also like to pick up a spare set of doors to modify into half doors. Although there are a ton of wd21's in scrap yards around me, none of tem are two door pathfinders. I've seen some pathfinders with the removable sun roofs (don't remember what generation) but they looked like they were larger. Are there any wd21's or d21's with the same size sunroof? Are there any pathfinder or pickup doors that are the same size as the 86'-89 pathy's? Thought I read somewhere that the tw doors had longer doors than the 4 doors.
  13. Anyone know exactly where the power for the dome lights in the back seats and cargo area run to? I got a dome light for the front, from a 4 door and gonna install it, just wondering if I'm gonna have to run more wire to the back or if it passes up near the rear view mirror. Thanks
  14. The internals aren't in the best shape, combined with the old plastic they don't last too long. I'm missing some sort of lock nut, so it needs to be adjusted every couple months for easy opening. That's the driver side at least, the passenger side just broke with no warning. My friend broke it, and she doesn't tend to strong arm things so i think the plastic just saw its time.
  15. Perfect thank you. That washer with the tab is what's screwed on mine im thinking, it's the only one that doesn't want to seat right. Sent from my SM-G360T using Tapatalk
  16. My handles have been busted for about 6 months now, so I think the constant reach around and pulling the inner handle from the outside is what is making them start to go. Sent from my SM-G360T using Tapatalk
  17. The big washer on the driver side doesn't fit flush in the hub anymore like on the passenger side making it hard to get the hub on completely. I'm buying manual hubs tomorrow, do you think this will be a problem? Or do all the moving parts in there get trashed when the manual hubs are installed?
  18. I was under the impression that only applies to a uni-body structure, like a Cherokee or second gen Pathfinder. Doesn't the Pathfinder and Hardbody Pickup share the same frame? If they do, wouldn't the truck variant be more susceptible because it has a much smaller cab? Or did I completely misinterpret what you said, and your only talking about the safety in the event of a roll-over? That makes complete sense. As for the ECM, I'm aware of that. Its getting relocated in a couple days. While we are on the topic of safety, could you recommend good aftermarket door handles, preferably metal, so I can put the doors back on? I removed the doors because the inside handle felt like it was on its way out, and i didn't want to deal with getting the door open with both handles busted. Thanks for the input though!
  19. I still have the rear speakers and I haven't had much of a problem with volume levels. With it equalized more on the mid/high range, I can still hear fine doing 75mph on the highway. I plan on re-mounting the speakers at some point, or maybe going with some smaller high quality ones to try and fit them up near the A-pillar or something cause I don't think the stock size will really fit anywhere. Maybe mount them to the ceiling in a spot that no one will hit their head on them. I'm fixing my subwoofer this week so hopefully that will make the quality much better with just the two rear speakers for now.
  20. Hmmm... For now at least! I was sure it would rain the second I had them off, how it usually goes. Both my handles busted for the second time so had to keep my windows down all the time anyways, and my moonroof shattered a few weeks go and haven't looked for a replacement yet. I'm gonna look into waterproof seat covers for when the rain comes, and when my tax return comes in, I plan on bed lining both interior and exterior as the first step to waterproofing everything. I feel bad for her, the trucks been abused pretty hard cosmetically since I've owned it, but I make sure to keep all the important parts that make it go in decent shape.
  21. Pulled the doors off my 89' a few days ago. Everything I read said it would be easiest to un-bolt the hinges because the pins tend to seize from age. Luckily my 29 year old truck has no rust at all! Only took me about 30 minutes to get them off plus an additional 15 minutes to cut the passenger wires and waterproof them for the time being. The pins came right out. I supported the door with a strap through the moonroof making it pretty easy to disconnect the driver side wires from under the dash via factory connectors. Couldn't find there the plugs are for the passenger side. Now I just gotta splice some connectors onto each, I was thinking of mounting them almost flush to the door for easy access. I daily mine delivering food for work, and its so much nicer and fun with the doors off driving the stick. Sent from my SM-G360T using Tapatalk
  22. My front stops don't look bad. The rears were toast and I pulled some from a yard a while back. The noise ended up being the 4 bolts on the front crossmember that holds the diff and engine(I think?). The bolts right by where the LCA mounts up. Gave them about a half turn each and my noise has disappeared. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Hmmm.. I think one of the clutches might be the piece I'm thinking of. Is one smaller than the other, but they look similar? There's a chance I was just so out of it I missed something and read the manual wrong. This all happened the day I replaced ball joints, and LCA rod bushings along with welding new cups. Hadn't welded in maybe a year prior and first time doing ball joints so I was at it for quite along time. I guess I just need to tear it apart again. I was too tired by that point to give the hubs a good cleaning so I should probably do that. I pretty much just wiped the old grease out, cleaned the removable parts and put some fresh grease in. I'll look into what you said about the shims too, not really following that part but I'll read up on it. Thanks!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. After doing my ball joints, I might've put one hub back together in the wrong order, as the drivers side was clunking and catching randomly. I also read too much grease can cause them to lock up(I put a lot in there probably too much) but only drivers side caused issues and I put roughly the same amount of grease on each side. I just pulled the internals really quick to prevent further damage(didn't look like any damage occurred luckily) as a temporary solution till I had time to pull it apart again. I went to the FSM but it looks like I have an extra washer like thingy that isn't shown in the exploded view. It was a few weeks ago last i had it apart, but I believe it was the larger washer with the two crimped ends, that I thought compressed the spring down so that's how I put it in there, last before throwing the hub back on. Passenger side hasn't given me problems so I was thinking about just repeating what's on that side, but I'd like to be sure. I'm fairly certain I kept the order on the side that has no problems but not 100% confident on that. I've had no luck with google on this subject. I found one post that had pictures o all the parts and the order they go but it was old and the photos were no longer viewable. I can pull it apart and take a picture of all the parts if that makes it easier to tell me how it goes back together correctly. Thanks guys! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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