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Everything posted by Backpacker

  1. Hmmm.. I think one of the clutches might be the piece I'm thinking of. Is one smaller than the other, but they look similar? There's a chance I was just so out of it I missed something and read the manual wrong. This all happened the day I replaced ball joints, and LCA rod bushings along with welding new cups. Hadn't welded in maybe a year prior and first time doing ball joints so I was at it for quite along time. I guess I just need to tear it apart again. I was too tired by that point to give the hubs a good cleaning so I should probably do that. I pretty much just wiped the old grease out, cleaned the removable parts and put some fresh grease in. I'll look into what you said about the shims too, not really following that part but I'll read up on it. Thanks!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. After doing my ball joints, I might've put one hub back together in the wrong order, as the drivers side was clunking and catching randomly. I also read too much grease can cause them to lock up(I put a lot in there probably too much) but only drivers side caused issues and I put roughly the same amount of grease on each side. I just pulled the internals really quick to prevent further damage(didn't look like any damage occurred luckily) as a temporary solution till I had time to pull it apart again. I went to the FSM but it looks like I have an extra washer like thingy that isn't shown in the exploded view. It was a few weeks ago last i had it apart, but I believe it was the larger washer with the two crimped ends, that I thought compressed the spring down so that's how I put it in there, last before throwing the hub back on. Passenger side hasn't given me problems so I was thinking about just repeating what's on that side, but I'd like to be sure. I'm fairly certain I kept the order on the side that has no problems but not 100% confident on that. I've had no luck with google on this subject. I found one post that had pictures o all the parts and the order they go but it was old and the photos were no longer viewable. I can pull it apart and take a picture of all the parts if that makes it easier to tell me how it goes back together correctly. Thanks guys! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Over the last week I installed new bearing race bushing cups for LCA rods and new upper/lower ball joints. Almost everything needs replacing or disassembling and cleaning with the front end. It's my dd and I can't work without it and lack the funds and time to do it all at once, so it's been very tedious. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. So I figured out a while ago how to get tons of leg room, fairly easily, for sleeping in the wd21 comfortable. If your tall like me this will make a world of difference. It's quickest done with a cordless drill and socket adaptor, but a ratchet works just fine. Before flipping the rear seats down, remove the four bolts that secure the hinges that the lower portion of the back seats rotate on. From there you can pull them out entirely and set aside. Here's a photo of the hinges I'm referring to: Fold the upper section of the rear seats down like you normally would. Next remove the head rests from the front seats. Slide the seats as far forward to the dash as possible. Now you can recline the front seats to be flat and level with the rear cargo area. Lastly slide the seats back to fill the gap. Here's a picture I took of doing this to just the driver side. Took me 3 mins to set up take a pic and return them to the original configuration. Makes great sleeping room for two with your head near the rear hatch and could possibly fit an air mattress. I'm 6'2" and this is the only way I am fall asleep back there unless I'm absolutely exhausted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I'm not sure. when I did ball joints the upper bushings seemed pretty stiff with no play. Not sure about the lower arms though, I didn't loosen the torsion bars so I couldn't really tell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Good idea I hadn't even thought of that as a possibility. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. It happens at any amount of turning not just full lock. I can just barely swerve back and forth going down a neighborhood street and it'll pop back and forth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Been having loud pop/clanks I can hear and feel through the floor boards in turns. It's loud. I've addressed the issues I thought it was, both on the more intense side of suspension work but the problem persists. It's only when there's some momentum, I can idle through a turn at full lock with nothing, but once I give some gas it does it and several times throughout the turn. Let's say I make a right turn and it pops a bunch and stops, if I make another right turn immediately after there is no popping. But once I go left it will pop a bunch and settle to the left side then won't pop on left turns till I make a right. So it's settling to each side. At first I though it was my compression/tension/strut rods on the lower control arms (whichever you'd like to call them). Had the classic worn out frame mounts from the lack of bushing cups. Welded some bearing races and installed new bushings, problem persists. Next I replaced all 4 ball joints, since the original 28 year old one were still installed and not looking to good. Only one of the uppers had a lot of play in it. The noise maybe reduced by 10% but is definitely still there. My sway bar bushing look a little rotted, and also look like they could use a good tightening. I'm going to pull it tomorrow and see if that's the culprit. If not, what else do you think it could be? My steering joints look like they could be replaced, but under the circumstances of when and what is happening, I'm thinking that's probably not it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I'll keep an eye out. Any pros to running a wider rim? I do like the look of the tires slightly ballooned out. Are the xterra rims the same back spacing? I think the truck would look a lot nicer with a slightly wider stance. I took the flares off because I just hated the look and perception it gave with the tires a couple inches recessed into them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Sounds good. I'm about to tear the suspension apart tonight and weld new bushing cups on the control arms so I will tinker with the ps while I'm at it. They just run atf? Is all power steering fluid atf? Simpler days back then when they made things strong and used similar stuff all around it seems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I hadn't thought to check the belts. They're probably time to be changed anyways. I've put 30k miles on them since I bought it and I'm not sure how many they had from the previous owner. They stroll look good but maybe starting to stretch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Hey all, so my power steering has started to whine and I can feel it through the steering wheel. It's not super bad, my ford ranger was way noisier than this but that's a ford for ya. I first noticed it on my last camping trip. Aired down my 31x10.5 to 20psi for the first time for a 40 mile dirt road drive at moderate speeds. The last 7 miles was pretty rough but 2wd, and the last 100 meters or so required 4lo to crawl over boulders. Reason for airing down was the deep sand at the bottom where the camp site resided. I noticed it on the way out when we left. I use my truck for city delivery driving short distances 5 days a week of about a mile or so at a time. It usually won't start making noises till an hour into my shift. The fluid is a little low, doesn't read on the dip stick but I looked in there while turning the wheels and it's high enough to not suck air. I actually just had a thought while typing this, but I do some high speed turns maybe the momentum of the fluid being pushed around in the reservoir allowed air to be introduced into it? Anyways got any other ideas or things to try or look for? The fluid looks pretty dark, but I've been told there's no need to ever really change the steering fluid. My pitman arm has a small leak but I've posted about it before and came to the conclusion that almost everyone's pitman arm gets some fluid seep. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. shouldn't be a problem for me. There's tons of d21's in my local yards with the same steelies, I can probably get one for very cheap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. oh duh. It went right over my head that the original tires were different. There was a full size wrangler tire on it that matched the rest so I assumed the original was matching in size too. That makes sense though. But even still it would seem with a rear tire carrier and the ease that comes with it for removing the tire, that they would have put a full size so you can rotate the spare as you rotate the rest of the tires and it not looking funny with a slimmer tire on the truck for that long. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. What gives! I have steelies but they are Nissan branded, I'm not sure if they came with the pathfinders originally or where they are from. But since getting 31x10.5r15 I finally took my spare over to the tire shop to have a 31 my buddy gave me mounted to the spare, but they couldn't get it to seat. I assumed they Rim was the same since it looked similar and was a full size spare, but turns out it's a 15x5.5 instead of the 15x6 that are on the truck. What's the point of a narrower spare if it's running the same size tire as the rest of the wheels? I don't get it. Now I have to buy one from the junk yard and hope I can find a match. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. I'll look at my truck in a few and let ya know. What year is yours? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. There's a d21 pick up that fell off a cliff near one of my local swimming spots I go to. It's upside down, smashed up and real rusty. But I was lookin at the manual hubs it once used. They look like some parts are aluminum, the outside doesn't look too rusted or bad either. What ever material that makes up the middle of them, between the Casing and the "manual" part of the hub is rotted away looks like it was plastic or something. What are the chances I can pull them off and rebuild them to their former glory?? I wanted to take something off of it and swap into my pathfinder like a bolt or something just for @!*%s and giggles but I really want some manual hubs and I just noticed it has them the last time I was there. Next time I go there (in the next few days I'm sure) I'll take some pics and port them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Or accidentally backing into things. Spare tire turns you into a bumper car lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. My 1989 does this if I'm really low. I got a new cap and it still does it. But if I have half a tank it won't. I'm also in a really hot climate and I've just assumes it's because of that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Maybe they are the same? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Got my first dent this weekend RIP rocker panel Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Did you test the old one? The fsm has testing procedures for each check engine code to make sure the sensors bad and it's not another problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Where are you getting your materials from? I want to build one but I'm not really sure where to buy steel not in bulk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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