Backpacker

Are you making one from scratch? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got my coolant temp sensor out without removing all the timing stuff fyi. I slid a socket onto it first, then used a large flat head screwdriver instead of an extension, because the extension won't fit through the space and connect to the socket. But you can get a flathead in there at an angle and with some vice grips on the screw driver you can break the sensor loose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Put the key to ON, flip the switch on the ecu, when it flashes 3 times flip yer switch back to its original position, count the flashes. It'll do red and green flashes for each number. I don't recall if it flashes red or green first, it for example: 5 red flashes then 1 green flash would be 51, then it'll pause and either do the next trouble code or just repeat the same one over and over. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's limp mode. Pull the codes from the computer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My injector was bad and sometimes it would fire up fine but in limp mode (wouldn't rev past about 3k), and other times it would be starving for fuel and wanting to die unless I bumped the throttle over and over Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I literally just had this issue or very similar last week Check what code it's throwing. My guess is 51 fuel injection circuit You can find out which injector is bad if that's the case, they usually go bad one at a time not all at once. First I would check the resistance of the injectors because it's easiest, you can do it from the injector harness connector. They shouldn't be below like 1.4 or 1.3 ohms, if one is much lower than that it's bad. The spec for them is 1.5 but sometimes they're a little lower and still okay. Another test if that leads nowhere: Unplug the injector harness, disconnect just one of the injector leads and try to start, if it still wants to die immediately, plug it back in and unplug the other injector the same way. If it runs and idles nice with one unplugged, that's the bad one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's funny. The only two times I've been stuck were in very dry rutted out river sand. Both times I didn't air down and I think most of it was operator error and being too paranoid because I was the only vehicle. I haven't hit any sand yet with my new 31x12.5 tires and I think that will make it a little easier next time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last time I went wheeling I got stuck in some coarse sand and was doing this pretty hard and almost got out, makes me wonder if that's why I couldn't do it, i felt like I was so close to getting unstuck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't had any problems yet but I've only used the 4x4 a handful of times so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dang that's the one thing I forgot to check for. I found a set on CL 120 miles from me for $40. Even with gas I think it would be worth the drive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah i noticed that they looked similar. I checked all 86-89 pathys and hardbodies. Every single throttle body was gone, I looked at like 10 vehicles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha me too! I'll get anywhere between $10-$20 on a 3 hour shift of maybe driving 25 miles max just for my gas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I did the injector switch and discovered my injector is bad. The last two days I've been driving with the bad injector partially disconnected. When I bought it it had one bad injector and I replaced it. Now 8 months later the other old one finally went bad. The coil went bad in the first one but I'm not sure why the second isn't working. After many trips to salvage yards I ended up buying new with the warranty. It should arrive at the parts store today, I wish they weren't so damn expensive. I'm gonna have my two bad ones rebuilt and kept in the tool box for the future because I feel like it will happen again someday. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I think I was wrong. I had the injector cap off when I primed it causing a major dump of fuel into the tb, enough to hydrolock the engine. I'm waiting on borrowing an air compressor so I can get the dirt out of my plug valleys to get the gas out if it doesn't all drain into the oil. The injectors tested good with a meter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I only have 6 months of school left and I'll have my bachelors in automotive engineering, this is only a temporary thing till I graduate. I wouldn't put her through this for too long especially with these Arizona summers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

$20 an hour on average sometimes a lot more! People either hate or love jimmy johns, and the ones that love it tip pretty well. And they pay me for gas x2 for the miles I rack up. She's only got 140,000 mi, honestly I put more miles on it commuting to school every day, around 100. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I stand corrected, my injector is stuck open. It's dumping a ridiculous amount of fuel into the throttle body. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went down a 6 mile dirt road with no cap and think I clogged an injector. It feels like only one bank gets compression with how violently it's shaking, and eventually goes into limp mode and runs fine(assuming it's shutting off the clogged one). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More specifically; How does the fuel flow to each cylinder under normal conditions? If one injector is clogged, will the good injector deliver any fuel to the opposite bank without adjustments from the computer ie: limp mode? I've read and experienced first hand that one injector can deliver enough fuel for both banks if one goes bad and the computer sees it. I'm curious how it compensates the flow of fuel through the manifold for one injector operation. I believe I have a clogged injector, and before the computer realizes this and goes into limp, only one bank is getting combustion causing a very low and violent idle and almost non existent throttle response. Once it triggers limp the engine operates flawlessly but with the governed engine speed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Long story short I was parked for a weekend of light rain without a gas cap in place. I think rain water got into my half full tank. She ran fine for about 20 miles but upon next start up it idled at like 150rpm. Doesn't die just idles super low and the exhaust sounds like a muscle car with crap acceleration. After revving it for a bit or driving it will eventually activate the fuel limp mode and run fine, idle normally just cut fuel at 2850 or whatever it is. I've had issues with limp mode before when I had a bad injector, but it was always in limp mode every start up because the coil went bad in the injector. With this new injector problem it tries to run both without realizing it's bad for a while. I filled the tank back up and threw some heet with injector cleaner in it. What should I do about this injector? I'm about to pull out the stethoscope to see which injector is not firing correctly, hopefully it's one I replaced last year so I can use the warranty. I could live with it for a while if it stayed in limp mode but sometimes it takes a while to activate and the truck is useless until it does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went camping, accidentally left the gas cap for my 1989 on the roof, lost it. On the drive up to the mountains it ran fine, it was around midnight and we drove 80 miles with no issues without the cap. Driving home just now in 100 degree weather made it maybe 25 miles, stopped at Taco Bell to eat, now she won't run after a short heat soak. If I pump the throttle I can keep the rough idle up, otherwise it drops to 200 or so rpm but doesn't really stall completely out. I was thinking maybe the hot weather is making the gas expand in the tank too much somehow causing fuel delivery problems. I'm currently hitchhiking 15mi to the parts store to pick up a gas cap. If this doesn't fix the issue, any other ideas?? I have my tools with me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My parents have an 07 off road edition xterra and it's a good vehicle. Only issues they had with it was the windows stopped working from the switches going bad, and the timing chain guides are starting to make a whole lotta noise on startup getting close to 200,000 miles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks red. So it looks like the shocks with the d21 RC parts won't fit the pathfinder. Do you know if the stock shocks will have enough travel for 2 more inches? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I read the Rough Country Pathfinder uca's will correct ball joint angle but can't find any, are the d21 the same? I thought d21 and wd21 shared the same IFS but wasn't sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Blew a tire yesterday and found my spare has a leak so I upgraded to some 31x10.5r15 KO2's Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk