Backpacker

Yeah that's next on my list too haha. As of right now I have 5qts of mt90 in the back for the trans but have yet to get the drain bolt off, need to find a buddy with an impact maybe. I bought a 1/2"-3/4" adapter to grind down for a snug fit to the drain bolts, but I want to try the impact before I go through all that trouble. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks RCW, I'll do that. They stopped making noise after I figured out what was wrong but that sounds like the safest solution. Manual hubs were pretty much next on my list of purchases so If that's all that might have gone messed up I'm not too worried now. The CV's have maybe only 15k on them so they shouldn't have any play hopefully. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably trashed my 4x4 today. God am I stupid. Was doin a day trip on some dirt roads and my copilot wanted to know how the 4x4 worked. Showed her but forgot to back it up to disengage the auto hubs. Drove a few miles at 55 on the highway and started feeling some random vibrations/noises. Pulled over to inspect, couldn't find anything wrong that would be grinding/making noise. Continued for about a 1/2 mile till I heard the loudest noise reverberating from the wall I was driving alongside. Sounded like what I would assume is the ratchet mechanism in the hubs, it was loud. But I made it home an additional 100 miles with no issues once I disengaged the hubs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I knows I read about it somewhere before! Thanks you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One of the belts on my 89, not sure if a drive belt or the timing belt, makes a slightly annoying noise at idle. My bet is on the the timing belt, I just changed it but rechecked the tension after 500 miles and it's pretty close to spec. It's sounds like a rubbing noise, someone described it once as a hive of bees lol but that's an exaggeration. Anyways, it goes away the second I give it any kind of throttle, even just a little bit where you can barely notice the tach increase. I don't think it's really an issue so I'd like to get rid of the noise by increasing my idle a slight bit. I couldn't find anything in the FSM on how to do this, is it in there and I just can't find it? Any help would be appreciated! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a noise that sounds just like you described, my timing belt was loose as a goose. If you jumped time it could run like crap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, the first time I pulled the belts was for the timing belt, so my mind was definitely cluttered, since then I've just been on autopilot every time I've had to take them off doing it the same way each time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I feel stupid haha. I usually catch stuff like that. It does indeed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ive pulled my timing covers twice this week and both times with that metal coolant bracket off I couldn't do it. I even tried wacking it with a breaker bar to try an rotate it. I think my problem is that bolt behind the pulley which I think is where it rotates from, is TIGHT. You can't get to it with the pulley on and every time I have it off I forget to break it loose so I can do it right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ive pulled my belts off so many times in the last 2 months I got it down like clockwork. Gotta use the dewalt to buzz 2 of them quickly. I have yet been able to remove the p/s belt without removing the pulley though , pain in my royal ass. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know what kind of clearances are between the valve/pistons? When I did mine last week I slowly cranked it over with a rachet and all plugs removed. It's turns very easy with minimal resistance, so I would think you could feel if the valves/pistons meet depending on how far their respective strokes cross over? Isn't that the whole point for why it's recommended to remove the plugs? I set it at tdc before removing the old belt with the plugs in. It was a little harder to turn over but didn't end up being an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right on. What I really want to do is fab an aluminum one to fit the contour of the A pillar like you said, but will be quite the challenge to my welding skills or lack of I should say. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was just under there and saw mine was an electrical tape/cardboard dealio just for the brake light switch side haha looks like I'll be picking some up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely. I just did mine and the teeth count was accurate but the cam backing plate marks were about a tooth off in each direction. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went to the junkyard to get a door handle. Came back with a 95 center console, practically new rear bump stops, door armrest, hydraulic line clippie things, and an oem spare tire cover for about $55. Fixed the broken door handle, it's from a newer pathfinder so slightly different, but it works good. Readjusted the latch mechanism and some kind of aftermarket power locks. The console was out of an automatic newer model. I cut it really quick and it fits nicely, and it has an armrest finally, makes driving the stick a lot more comfortable. I'm keeping my eye out for manual hubs, their listed for like $15 a pair at all my local yards. I still have a few to check out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure about size. I've never made a snorkel before but I plan to pretty soon. Let me know how your ends up when your done! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If your sure about doing the snorkel, you can cut a small piece of the end off and take it shopping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Use some string to measure it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use view ranger on my iPhone, works really well. I have all the usgs maps loaded in there and it shows pretty much every trail of its ever been on a map for my area Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I might just be paranoid but since doing my timing belt on my 89, my engine makes a loud almost whistling/whirring type of noise that follows rpm. It's much better than the loud rattle I had from the previous, very loose belt. I used the twist method of tensioning it described in one of the threads in the garage because I was in a hurry at that point. I'm going to figure a way to recheck the tension using the 22lbs method in the FSM but probably not for a day or two. I've put about 60 miles on the new belt so far with no change in noise, but it runs great besides that. If the belt is too tight, how safe is it to keep driving it so say, 100 miles before I check it? I plan on re torquing the crank bolt and probably checking the new water pump seal for leaks anyways. On another note, it's possible I put one or two of the old drive belts on backwards which I know can make noise, so I'm going to replace all of them and see if it changes. They're in good shape but I don't know how old they are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's running good and quiet now. The belt makes a kind of whiring noise, but I think it will go away once it stretches a bit, only 30miles on it so far. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or starter. Sometimes they get stuck if they're old. Next time it does it, give it a few good taps with a hammer and see if it starts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just finished my timing belt thanks to this forum! She fired right up after and all of my "mysterious" noises are gone, running so quiet I can't believe it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bought this rig a month ago and put 600 miles on it with only an oil change and new ignition parts. I thought the engine noise was broken studs/heat shields. Turns out my belt is so loose I can deflect it an inch with my pinky finger!!! All the goodies came in today hopefully I can get the job done by the weekend for some wheelin! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk