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ShadowTek

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    120,000 miles
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1995

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  • Location
    Earth
  • Country
    Switzerland

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  1. I finally got around to replacing the tie rod today, and I could get a better look at the old one. http://oi57.tinypic.com/bdta2x.jpg The bolt threads were mashed, and there was what looked like a piece of thread left from the nut wrapped around it. I guess that snapping off was when it went, then the flat threads allowed it to jump. The torque specs in the fsm say 40 to 70 ft lbs, so I probably put it at 70 ft lbs. It looks like that may have been to much for this aftermarket tie rod (Master Pro) to handle. Or maybe that's just too high of a torque regardless of what the fsm says. I didn't torque it down as tight this time, so hopefully it'll hold.
  2. I had a nut come off a tie rod that I installed about 1,000 miles ago. I'm certian that I torqued the nut to the FSM's spec, and I used a new cotter pin to finish. The nut seemed to have simply twisted off, shearing off the cotter pin. I think I used anti seize on the castle nut, so I'm assuming that I should not have done that. Would it be better to use some low strength tread lock instead to proctect the treads? Or should I use nothing at all?
  3. I finally found the proper socket for the wheel bearing locknut at a local Napa for like $15. Evercraft 776-9179 (2 lug spindle nut wrench) It's a 1/2" drive socket, but they still call it a wrench. lol Just figured I'd post this since it seemed hard to find.
  4. I just had this same issue when installing a new half shaft. I thought maybe I didn't seat the inner-most grease seal down far enough, but that wasn't it. The driveshaft just doesn't like to fully seat into the knuckle without a fight. The best method I found is to stand in front of the knuckle (while it's mounted), grasp the middle part of the drive shaft, and pull toward you steadily while rapidly tapping on the side of the outer end of the shaft from all directions with a soft mallet. It'll quickly find its seat, and the second snapring groove should out far enough. It seemed easier to do without the driveshaft to flage bolts in yet. I then put the snap ring on the shaft so it wouldn't slip back out again.
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