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Mr_Reverse last won the day on February 9

Mr_Reverse had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Jezzy is a beat-up, neglected 1993 WD21 SE. She has a 3"BL, 3+" SL, 33x12.50 tires, VG33 engine with a lot of odd little quirks and mods.
  • Place of Residence
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Syracuse, Utah
  • Country
    United States

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  1. When I did my Quest/Villager alternator swap many years ago, I found the plug fit fine and the stock wiring works unless you put a heavy load(like jump starting a F350 with the power stroke) on the electrical system. Then the charge cable gets a bit hot. Upgrading a it a couple sizes solved that issue. The rest of the electrical system is fine because the various components use only what they need and the regulator in the alternator only puts out what is needed up to the maximum output. Most of the time, it will be less than 40 amps in a near stock truck.
  2. I just get an assortment from a local parts store and usually there is one or 2 that work.
  3. Your symptoms sound a lot like ones I have had in the past with my 1980+ frankenstein 200sx. It sounds like the sensor unit that is built into the distributor is failing. I suggest replacing the entire distributor, since around here they are only about $20 more than the sensor module and you won't have to worry about wear in the shaft bearings. Get a spark tester (they are cheap) and see if you have lost spark when the engine dies. You can also try cooling the distributor when it does on you and if it starts back up after cooling, you know it is the problem.
  4. The parts stores sell replacement "wires" for the coil on plug ignition systems. They are replacement wires, boots, and seals that go between the coil and spark plugs. My experience with COP systems is unless there was mechanical damage to the coil, if one is failed or failing, replace them all together, or you will be chasing issues.
  5. My 93 Pathfinder is very unhappy on the street, though due to life events has spent most of the last year as my daily driver. That said, it has been driven to and from all trails it has run since I bought it 22 years ago. Used to do annual trips to Moab for vacation in better days, though those were only about 300 miles each way. If your ride is a trail only machine, that is another reason for a trailer to transport it. That way getting home when something serious breaks is a lot easier. A small tandem axle flat bed can be found for not too much money and will be much more practical than a dolly or flat towing. However that is just one old guys opinion and we all know about opinions. To me, manual hubs were a no-brainer, but my truck came with autos. Yours has the drive flanges that are bullet proof, but sometimes being able to detach the front wheels from the drivetrain has advantages. I do recall a few years ago when I worked at my local Nissan dealership a customer had an Xterra that was set up to be towed. He had a rear drive shaft disconnect at the rear axle that all he had to do was pull a lever to disconnect the axle from the driveshaft. Perhaps look into something like that.
  6. Biggest problem I see is that when I used a dolly to tow cars, you needed to have the front wheels on the dolly with the steering unlocked so you could turn around corners without having binding issues. That said the dolly's I used had no or limited pivot between the frame and wheel plates. It is only 4 nuts and bolts to undo at the pinion flange on the rear axle, then just tie the driveline up to the bottom of the car, you don't have to completely remove the driveline. How much towing are you planning for this car? If it is a lot, a trailer is the best option just to reduce wear on the car and if a tire fails, less damage is likely.
  7. How about the reclining back seats?
  8. I suggest starting with a pressure test. Find out what the actual oil pressure is. If a test gauge shows good pressure, then I would suspect a faulty sensor or wiring. If the pressure is low, either there was a mistake in the engine rebuild or a problem with the pump or pressure regulator. Is the engine running normally and not giving any codes? Usually low oil pressure will cause cam timing codes since the phasers are sensitive to oil pressure. If they are happy, odds are the pressure is good.
  9. Good to hear. Just wondering, what product did you use? Also, how long has it been since you replaced the fuel filter?
  10. Sounds like an internal mechanical fault in the transmission. Most likely leaking seals internally. Best bet is to go to a reputable transmission shop for diagnosis.
  11. I perform injector cleaning like you are describing at work quite often. That said, it doesn't sound like you have a leak to be concerned about if it takes 25 min to drop 11 psi. That is well in the normal range. The injection cleaning won't hurt though. With your symptoms, it can be a variety of things that can drive you crazy to track down. Could be fuel quality since they have different blends for the seasons, wear in the ignition system, a temperature sensor that is reading a little off, worn O2 sensors, general engine wear, and combinations of the above.
  12. Easier to just pull the bulb. It isn't like newer OBD2 cars where they are a LED built into the cluster.
  13. The interference that is being referred to is with the car, not the key. The antenna that reads the key is in the ring around the ignition switch. It is most likely the antenna unit is failing, or the connection to the wiring is poor. The key just has a RFID chip that isn't bothered by any RF radiation, but the antenna amp(Nissan name for the unit) around the ignition lock can get 'jammed' by signals from other sources. Check the key and ensure the little rectangle block is still in it next to the key blade. I have seen a few over the years that were damaged. If that is the case, you will need to get a new key and have the system reprogrammed either at a Nissan/Infinity dealer or locksmith that can do Nissans. If you have a second key for your car, try it and if it works normally, then the problem is the key. If not, most likely the antenna. Replaced a few of them over the years too.
  14. I have a pair of the Nilight amber LED fog lights on my truck that are similar to the ones pictured. They are actually designed as a fog light and the amber color works great. I have mine wired so I can shut off the headlights to minimize the glare and back scatter by just running the marker lights and fogs in heavy snow/rain/fog. Done all 3 and have been pleased with my $35 set of Nilights. Enough so that I added a small bar and a couple floods angled out to my front bumper of my 93. Amber or yellow lights have always worked better in inclement weather than white. Probably would in dust storms as well, same principal, the longer wave length is less dazzling. A little tip I was given almost 30 years ago living in rural deer country, have a set of yellow lights to help prevent ramming the mule deer in my region. The yellow light helps keep them from freezing in front of you like they will with white lights. I found that when I ran my yellow fogs with the headlights that I had fewer close calls driving the roads back then.
  15. Mounted mine in the center of my spare tire carrier so it is looking out of the center of my wheel. Works well enough over the last 15 or so years. Would be nice to have a lower one that can see my hitch for when I need to hook up to a trailer though.

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