I see P0128 codes all the time right now. If coolant is full, you can rely on it being an issue with the thermostat. I gave up testing the things and just replace them. I prefer oem parts but most aftermarket t-stats work in Nissans. I suggest either getting a new one or warranty the one you have. Code P0128 is set when it takes too long to reach operating temperature or does not reach operating temperature. It looks like your thermostat is not able to restrict coolant flow enough to reach operating temperature. It could just have a weak spring and the pressure from the water pump could be opening the thermostat a bit causing it to open more than desired. Try a new thermostat, they are cheap and will likely fix your problem. It does for me at work.

Try running a separate ground wire from the stereo chassis to a good body ground. It is possible the DRL module could be causing your electrical noise. If you unplug that and the noise is gone, then you found the problem. Is the noise only in the radio or all the stereo functions? If just radio, possible issue with antennas or wires. You can also try a noise filter on the power wires for the stereo, the yellow always hot wire is the one you will want to filter. The red is only for switching on and off.

Evap system on the R50 is simple, a smoke test will show a leak if it is there. If there is no problems with the lines, canister, fuel filler neck, or fuel cap, you might want to test the vent and purge valves. Cycle them manually a few times by feeding power and ground to them and insure they seal completely every time. I have had a few small leaks in various cars caused by a leaking purge valve. Easy test for it is to unplug the valve, disconnect the hose that is on the tank side and with the engine running, check for vacuum on the port on the valve. It shouldn't have any at all.

Likely the car thinks the window is not latched. Could simply be an adjustment issue for the latch, a failure in the switch built into the latch, or the switch wires are shorted together or to ground. I believe it is a normally closed switch that is held open by striker when the window is fully latched closed.

The o-ring is an air seal for the idle control valve. Coolant doesn't normally come in contact at all. It simply has a small passage around the Venturi zone in the throttle body to prevent icing in cold moist conditions. The hoses are the 2 small rubber hoses that go to the throttle body, when they leak, the coolant drips onto the outside of the idle valve and intrudes over time generally at the electrical connector. This problem is found only on the VQ35, the VG33 doesn't have this problem. The picture you have posted is for the engine with the throttle cables, so the IAC is subject to the problem that the drive by wire throttle body doesn't suffer from.

My starter fix was for automatic transmission trucks, basically it was similar to how the manual transmission trucks are set up. Intermittent issues like yours is difficult to nail down. The symptoms do sound like a poor connection somewhere between the the battery and the starter solenoid mounted on the starter. Like others have said, it is possible that the problem is with the factory alarm/security system. It is a known problem child. It is a very simple unit that uses a starter interrupt. If the unit is failing on you it might not be powering the starter interrupt relay or that relay could have failing contacts. I don't have a wiring diagram handy at the moment, but if you trace the start wire from the ignition switch, you will find where it goes to the alarm module under the driver's seat and back to the harness in the steering column. Bypass the alarm starter circuit and that will eliminate the possibility that it is the security system causing your starter issue. Sorry, it sounds more complicated than it really is, only takes a few minutes to find the wires where they leave the harness and connect them together.

When I did my Quest/Villager alternator swap many years ago, I found the plug fit fine and the stock wiring works unless you put a heavy load(like jump starting a F350 with the power stroke) on the electrical system. Then the charge cable gets a bit hot. Upgrading a it a couple sizes solved that issue. The rest of the electrical system is fine because the various components use only what they need and the regulator in the alternator only puts out what is needed up to the maximum output. Most of the time, it will be less than 40 amps in a near stock truck.

I just get an assortment from a local parts store and usually there is one or 2 that work.

Your symptoms sound a lot like ones I have had in the past with my 1980+ frankenstein 200sx. It sounds like the sensor unit that is built into the distributor is failing. I suggest replacing the entire distributor, since around here they are only about $20 more than the sensor module and you won't have to worry about wear in the shaft bearings. Get a spark tester (they are cheap) and see if you have lost spark when the engine dies. You can also try cooling the distributor when it does on you and if it starts back up after cooling, you know it is the problem.

The parts stores sell replacement "wires" for the coil on plug ignition systems. They are replacement wires, boots, and seals that go between the coil and spark plugs. My experience with COP systems is unless there was mechanical damage to the coil, if one is failed or failing, replace them all together, or you will be chasing issues.

My 93 Pathfinder is very unhappy on the street, though due to life events has spent most of the last year as my daily driver. That said, it has been driven to and from all trails it has run since I bought it 22 years ago. Used to do annual trips to Moab for vacation in better days, though those were only about 300 miles each way. If your ride is a trail only machine, that is another reason for a trailer to transport it. That way getting home when something serious breaks is a lot easier. A small tandem axle flat bed can be found for not too much money and will be much more practical than a dolly or flat towing. However that is just one old guys opinion and we all know about opinions. To me, manual hubs were a no-brainer, but my truck came with autos. Yours has the drive flanges that are bullet proof, but sometimes being able to detach the front wheels from the drivetrain has advantages. I do recall a few years ago when I worked at my local Nissan dealership a customer had an Xterra that was set up to be towed. He had a rear drive shaft disconnect at the rear axle that all he had to do was pull a lever to disconnect the axle from the driveshaft. Perhaps look into something like that.

Biggest problem I see is that when I used a dolly to tow cars, you needed to have the front wheels on the dolly with the steering unlocked so you could turn around corners without having binding issues. That said the dolly's I used had no or limited pivot between the frame and wheel plates. It is only 4 nuts and bolts to undo at the pinion flange on the rear axle, then just tie the driveline up to the bottom of the car, you don't have to completely remove the driveline. How much towing are you planning for this car? If it is a lot, a trailer is the best option just to reduce wear on the car and if a tire fails, less damage is likely.

How about the reclining back seats?

I suggest starting with a pressure test. Find out what the actual oil pressure is. If a test gauge shows good pressure, then I would suspect a faulty sensor or wiring. If the pressure is low, either there was a mistake in the engine rebuild or a problem with the pump or pressure regulator. Is the engine running normally and not giving any codes? Usually low oil pressure will cause cam timing codes since the phasers are sensitive to oil pressure. If they are happy, odds are the pressure is good.