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Mr_Reverse

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Everything posted by Mr_Reverse

  1. When I did my Quest/Villager alternator swap many years ago, I found the plug fit fine and the stock wiring works unless you put a heavy load(like jump starting a F350 with the power stroke) on the electrical system. Then the charge cable gets a bit hot. Upgrading a it a couple sizes solved that issue. The rest of the electrical system is fine because the various components use only what they need and the regulator in the alternator only puts out what is needed up to the maximum output. Most of the time, it will be less than 40 amps in a near stock truck.
  2. I just get an assortment from a local parts store and usually there is one or 2 that work.
  3. Your symptoms sound a lot like ones I have had in the past with my 1980+ frankenstein 200sx. It sounds like the sensor unit that is built into the distributor is failing. I suggest replacing the entire distributor, since around here they are only about $20 more than the sensor module and you won't have to worry about wear in the shaft bearings. Get a spark tester (they are cheap) and see if you have lost spark when the engine dies. You can also try cooling the distributor when it does on you and if it starts back up after cooling, you know it is the problem.
  4. The parts stores sell replacement "wires" for the coil on plug ignition systems. They are replacement wires, boots, and seals that go between the coil and spark plugs. My experience with COP systems is unless there was mechanical damage to the coil, if one is failed or failing, replace them all together, or you will be chasing issues.
  5. My 93 Pathfinder is very unhappy on the street, though due to life events has spent most of the last year as my daily driver. That said, it has been driven to and from all trails it has run since I bought it 22 years ago. Used to do annual trips to Moab for vacation in better days, though those were only about 300 miles each way. If your ride is a trail only machine, that is another reason for a trailer to transport it. That way getting home when something serious breaks is a lot easier. A small tandem axle flat bed can be found for not too much money and will be much more practical than a dolly or flat towing. However that is just one old guys opinion and we all know about opinions. To me, manual hubs were a no-brainer, but my truck came with autos. Yours has the drive flanges that are bullet proof, but sometimes being able to detach the front wheels from the drivetrain has advantages. I do recall a few years ago when I worked at my local Nissan dealership a customer had an Xterra that was set up to be towed. He had a rear drive shaft disconnect at the rear axle that all he had to do was pull a lever to disconnect the axle from the driveshaft. Perhaps look into something like that.
  6. Biggest problem I see is that when I used a dolly to tow cars, you needed to have the front wheels on the dolly with the steering unlocked so you could turn around corners without having binding issues. That said the dolly's I used had no or limited pivot between the frame and wheel plates. It is only 4 nuts and bolts to undo at the pinion flange on the rear axle, then just tie the driveline up to the bottom of the car, you don't have to completely remove the driveline. How much towing are you planning for this car? If it is a lot, a trailer is the best option just to reduce wear on the car and if a tire fails, less damage is likely.
  7. How about the reclining back seats?
  8. I suggest starting with a pressure test. Find out what the actual oil pressure is. If a test gauge shows good pressure, then I would suspect a faulty sensor or wiring. If the pressure is low, either there was a mistake in the engine rebuild or a problem with the pump or pressure regulator. Is the engine running normally and not giving any codes? Usually low oil pressure will cause cam timing codes since the phasers are sensitive to oil pressure. If they are happy, odds are the pressure is good.
  9. Good to hear. Just wondering, what product did you use? Also, how long has it been since you replaced the fuel filter?
  10. Sounds like an internal mechanical fault in the transmission. Most likely leaking seals internally. Best bet is to go to a reputable transmission shop for diagnosis.
  11. I perform injector cleaning like you are describing at work quite often. That said, it doesn't sound like you have a leak to be concerned about if it takes 25 min to drop 11 psi. That is well in the normal range. The injection cleaning won't hurt though. With your symptoms, it can be a variety of things that can drive you crazy to track down. Could be fuel quality since they have different blends for the seasons, wear in the ignition system, a temperature sensor that is reading a little off, worn O2 sensors, general engine wear, and combinations of the above.
  12. Easier to just pull the bulb. It isn't like newer OBD2 cars where they are a LED built into the cluster.
  13. The interference that is being referred to is with the car, not the key. The antenna that reads the key is in the ring around the ignition switch. It is most likely the antenna unit is failing, or the connection to the wiring is poor. The key just has a RFID chip that isn't bothered by any RF radiation, but the antenna amp(Nissan name for the unit) around the ignition lock can get 'jammed' by signals from other sources. Check the key and ensure the little rectangle block is still in it next to the key blade. I have seen a few over the years that were damaged. If that is the case, you will need to get a new key and have the system reprogrammed either at a Nissan/Infinity dealer or locksmith that can do Nissans. If you have a second key for your car, try it and if it works normally, then the problem is the key. If not, most likely the antenna. Replaced a few of them over the years too.
  14. I have a pair of the Nilight amber LED fog lights on my truck that are similar to the ones pictured. They are actually designed as a fog light and the amber color works great. I have mine wired so I can shut off the headlights to minimize the glare and back scatter by just running the marker lights and fogs in heavy snow/rain/fog. Done all 3 and have been pleased with my $35 set of Nilights. Enough so that I added a small bar and a couple floods angled out to my front bumper of my 93. Amber or yellow lights have always worked better in inclement weather than white. Probably would in dust storms as well, same principal, the longer wave length is less dazzling. A little tip I was given almost 30 years ago living in rural deer country, have a set of yellow lights to help prevent ramming the mule deer in my region. The yellow light helps keep them from freezing in front of you like they will with white lights. I found that when I ran my yellow fogs with the headlights that I had fewer close calls driving the roads back then.
  15. Mounted mine in the center of my spare tire carrier so it is looking out of the center of my wheel. Works well enough over the last 15 or so years. Would be nice to have a lower one that can see my hitch for when I need to hook up to a trailer though.
  16. My 93 came with the factory fog lights installed before I bought it in 99. I suspect they were factory installed rather than dealer since it was a loaded SE. The web in the plastic insert was cut out to fit the lights and there was a pair of plastic trim covers to finish each end of the light if I recall correctly. You will need the 93-95 Pathfinder bumper mounting brackets as well to attach the bumper to the truck. You will also need the fog light mounting brackets if they are not included with the lights. If they are replacement lights, probably won't have them. I don't recall exactly but I think there was a small fender extension that attached to the bottom of the front fenders at the bottom to match up to the steel valence/trim under the front bumper. All that I removed many years ago from mine when I lifted my truck and built a front skid plate that has proven to be serious overkill. As has been said, the bumpers are light and pretty much decoration. If you are willing to spend a little more and put in some work, a custom or aftermarket off road bumper would be good way to go.
  17. Well, I was working at my local Nissan dealership until almost 2 years ago. Not sure about the Zinc deal and how much it changes things. My 93 Pathfinder had a bit over 200k miles before I replaced the engine due to the woodruff key for the timing belt sprocket destroyed the crankshaft and the pistons and valves got to know each other. My 85 300zx had over 200k miles too before I suspect the oil pump broke. I was tired of working on that car so never bothered to figure out what went in it. Neither one showed any noticable wear in the lifters or cams. I did have a cam failure in a Z20 engine, but that was caused by a broken rocker arm. None of my other Nissans or the ones I worked on have shown problems with wear on the lifter faces or lobes. Where I work now, we see a few failed cams per year in GMs and Chrysler engines. Almost never caused by the oil though.
  18. I don't recall any special break in process. It is said that when reinstalling used ones that they should be put back in the same spots they came out of. I know when I worked at the dealership there was nothing special we did when replacing lifters.
  19. It does sound like the drums are out of round. Not uncommon and easily fixed by having them trued on a brake lathe. A slight movement only at 12 and 6 is an indication of wear in the ball joints or sometimes in the suspension bushings. Once I saw the issue was caused by wear in the strut of a car. If it is less than 1/8" at the outer edge of the wheel, generally not a big issue. If it was bearing play, it would be all around. The best way to track it down is to have a helper wiggle the wheel while you are looking to see where the movement is. We do it all the time in the shops I have worked in. With the soft brake pedal, find a soft or slick surface you can get some speed on and do a few hard stops where the ABS activates. That will help push air out of the ABS valves and cycling them also ensures they are fully homed. Then do a gravity bleed and that should take care of the problem. With gravity bleeding, just put a piece of clear hose on the bleeder, open the bleeder a half turn and take the cap off the reservoir. Keep it full and when the air bubbles are gone out of the hose, indicates you are good. You can actually do all 4 at the same time, just close valves when the fluid is clear of air.
  20. The only hoses under there are the vacuum lines and a couple coolant hoses. Since you are planning on replacing the vacuum lines, just go on and use some bulk hose for the coolant lines. There is a couple short sections under the lower intake that you might want to go on and replace since you are most of the way there anyway. The lower manifold gaskets aren't too expensive or hard to get. My experience here in Northern Utah is the dealer parts are very close to aftermarket and sometimes even a bit less when it comes to the small bits like the gaskets.
  21. Just remember that the Z is a rear wheel drive and many Pathfinders are 4 wheel drive. The rear housing and output shafts are different between the 2wd and 4wd. Often the gear ratios can be different as well between a car and truck application. When I was a teenager, my first car was my 1977 Datsun 200sx with 5 speed transmission. My mom had a 1979 Datsun 620 pickup with a 5 speed transmission. Both were 2wd rear wheel drives with L20B engines, but the engines had different firing orders and internals. The trans in the car was much shorter, had a different gear pattern and different ratios. Made things interesting when jumping from one to the other, all the gears were in different places. Trying to go into reverse thinking it was 5th in the truck at 50 mph made bad noises.
  22. Biggest problem I see is the alignment issues. A couple of inches of change in ride height will have a big effect on the alignment angles since the suspension was designed to stay at a specific height.
  23. I don't believe so. I would have to look it up but I believe those relays are for something else entirely.
  24. I suspect either the replacement radio is bad or the factory amplifier is probably the problem. Wouldn't hurt to check that the speakers aren't bad also. The front and rear should be the same, can switch them and see what happens but my bets are on the amp or head unit.
  25. With the trans, you want to check the level with it at operating temperature for proper measurements.

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