Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Mr_Reverse

  1. I see P0128 codes all the time right now. If coolant is full, you can rely on it being an issue with the thermostat. I gave up testing the things and just replace them. I prefer oem parts but most aftermarket t-stats work in Nissans. I suggest either getting a new one or warranty the one you have. Code P0128 is set when it takes too long to reach operating temperature or does not reach operating temperature. It looks like your thermostat is not able to restrict coolant flow enough to reach operating temperature. It could just have a weak spring and the pressure from the water pump could be opening the thermostat a bit causing it to open more than desired. Try a new thermostat, they are cheap and will likely fix your problem. It does for me at work.
  2. Try running a separate ground wire from the stereo chassis to a good body ground. It is possible the DRL module could be causing your electrical noise. If you unplug that and the noise is gone, then you found the problem. Is the noise only in the radio or all the stereo functions? If just radio, possible issue with antennas or wires. You can also try a noise filter on the power wires for the stereo, the yellow always hot wire is the one you will want to filter. The red is only for switching on and off.
  3. Evap system on the R50 is simple, a smoke test will show a leak if it is there. If there is no problems with the lines, canister, fuel filler neck, or fuel cap, you might want to test the vent and purge valves. Cycle them manually a few times by feeding power and ground to them and insure they seal completely every time. I have had a few small leaks in various cars caused by a leaking purge valve. Easy test for it is to unplug the valve, disconnect the hose that is on the tank side and with the engine running, check for vacuum on the port on the valve. It shouldn't have any at all.
  4. Likely the car thinks the window is not latched. Could simply be an adjustment issue for the latch, a failure in the switch built into the latch, or the switch wires are shorted together or to ground. I believe it is a normally closed switch that is held open by striker when the window is fully latched closed.
  5. The o-ring is an air seal for the idle control valve. Coolant doesn't normally come in contact at all. It simply has a small passage around the Venturi zone in the throttle body to prevent icing in cold moist conditions. The hoses are the 2 small rubber hoses that go to the throttle body, when they leak, the coolant drips onto the outside of the idle valve and intrudes over time generally at the electrical connector. This problem is found only on the VQ35, the VG33 doesn't have this problem. The picture you have posted is for the engine with the throttle cables, so the IAC is subject to the problem that the drive by wire throttle body doesn't suffer from.
  6. My starter fix was for automatic transmission trucks, basically it was similar to how the manual transmission trucks are set up. Intermittent issues like yours is difficult to nail down. The symptoms do sound like a poor connection somewhere between the the battery and the starter solenoid mounted on the starter. Like others have said, it is possible that the problem is with the factory alarm/security system. It is a known problem child. It is a very simple unit that uses a starter interrupt. If the unit is failing on you it might not be powering the starter interrupt relay or that relay could have failing contacts. I don't have a wiring diagram handy at the moment, but if you trace the start wire from the ignition switch, you will find where it goes to the alarm module under the driver's seat and back to the harness in the steering column. Bypass the alarm starter circuit and that will eliminate the possibility that it is the security system causing your starter issue. Sorry, it sounds more complicated than it really is, only takes a few minutes to find the wires where they leave the harness and connect them together.
  7. When I did my Quest/Villager alternator swap many years ago, I found the plug fit fine and the stock wiring works unless you put a heavy load(like jump starting a F350 with the power stroke) on the electrical system. Then the charge cable gets a bit hot. Upgrading a it a couple sizes solved that issue. The rest of the electrical system is fine because the various components use only what they need and the regulator in the alternator only puts out what is needed up to the maximum output. Most of the time, it will be less than 40 amps in a near stock truck.
  8. I just get an assortment from a local parts store and usually there is one or 2 that work.
  9. Your symptoms sound a lot like ones I have had in the past with my 1980+ frankenstein 200sx. It sounds like the sensor unit that is built into the distributor is failing. I suggest replacing the entire distributor, since around here they are only about $20 more than the sensor module and you won't have to worry about wear in the shaft bearings. Get a spark tester (they are cheap) and see if you have lost spark when the engine dies. You can also try cooling the distributor when it does on you and if it starts back up after cooling, you know it is the problem.
  10. The parts stores sell replacement "wires" for the coil on plug ignition systems. They are replacement wires, boots, and seals that go between the coil and spark plugs. My experience with COP systems is unless there was mechanical damage to the coil, if one is failed or failing, replace them all together, or you will be chasing issues.
  11. My 93 Pathfinder is very unhappy on the street, though due to life events has spent most of the last year as my daily driver. That said, it has been driven to and from all trails it has run since I bought it 22 years ago. Used to do annual trips to Moab for vacation in better days, though those were only about 300 miles each way. If your ride is a trail only machine, that is another reason for a trailer to transport it. That way getting home when something serious breaks is a lot easier. A small tandem axle flat bed can be found for not too much money and will be much more practical than a dolly or flat towing. However that is just one old guys opinion and we all know about opinions. To me, manual hubs were a no-brainer, but my truck came with autos. Yours has the drive flanges that are bullet proof, but sometimes being able to detach the front wheels from the drivetrain has advantages. I do recall a few years ago when I worked at my local Nissan dealership a customer had an Xterra that was set up to be towed. He had a rear drive shaft disconnect at the rear axle that all he had to do was pull a lever to disconnect the axle from the driveshaft. Perhaps look into something like that.
  12. Biggest problem I see is that when I used a dolly to tow cars, you needed to have the front wheels on the dolly with the steering unlocked so you could turn around corners without having binding issues. That said the dolly's I used had no or limited pivot between the frame and wheel plates. It is only 4 nuts and bolts to undo at the pinion flange on the rear axle, then just tie the driveline up to the bottom of the car, you don't have to completely remove the driveline. How much towing are you planning for this car? If it is a lot, a trailer is the best option just to reduce wear on the car and if a tire fails, less damage is likely.
  13. How about the reclining back seats?
  14. I suggest starting with a pressure test. Find out what the actual oil pressure is. If a test gauge shows good pressure, then I would suspect a faulty sensor or wiring. If the pressure is low, either there was a mistake in the engine rebuild or a problem with the pump or pressure regulator. Is the engine running normally and not giving any codes? Usually low oil pressure will cause cam timing codes since the phasers are sensitive to oil pressure. If they are happy, odds are the pressure is good.
  15. Good to hear. Just wondering, what product did you use? Also, how long has it been since you replaced the fuel filter?
  16. Sounds like an internal mechanical fault in the transmission. Most likely leaking seals internally. Best bet is to go to a reputable transmission shop for diagnosis.
  17. I perform injector cleaning like you are describing at work quite often. That said, it doesn't sound like you have a leak to be concerned about if it takes 25 min to drop 11 psi. That is well in the normal range. The injection cleaning won't hurt though. With your symptoms, it can be a variety of things that can drive you crazy to track down. Could be fuel quality since they have different blends for the seasons, wear in the ignition system, a temperature sensor that is reading a little off, worn O2 sensors, general engine wear, and combinations of the above.
  18. Easier to just pull the bulb. It isn't like newer OBD2 cars where they are a LED built into the cluster.
  19. The interference that is being referred to is with the car, not the key. The antenna that reads the key is in the ring around the ignition switch. It is most likely the antenna unit is failing, or the connection to the wiring is poor. The key just has a RFID chip that isn't bothered by any RF radiation, but the antenna amp(Nissan name for the unit) around the ignition lock can get 'jammed' by signals from other sources. Check the key and ensure the little rectangle block is still in it next to the key blade. I have seen a few over the years that were damaged. If that is the case, you will need to get a new key and have the system reprogrammed either at a Nissan/Infinity dealer or locksmith that can do Nissans. If you have a second key for your car, try it and if it works normally, then the problem is the key. If not, most likely the antenna. Replaced a few of them over the years too.
  20. I have a pair of the Nilight amber LED fog lights on my truck that are similar to the ones pictured. They are actually designed as a fog light and the amber color works great. I have mine wired so I can shut off the headlights to minimize the glare and back scatter by just running the marker lights and fogs in heavy snow/rain/fog. Done all 3 and have been pleased with my $35 set of Nilights. Enough so that I added a small bar and a couple floods angled out to my front bumper of my 93. Amber or yellow lights have always worked better in inclement weather than white. Probably would in dust storms as well, same principal, the longer wave length is less dazzling. A little tip I was given almost 30 years ago living in rural deer country, have a set of yellow lights to help prevent ramming the mule deer in my region. The yellow light helps keep them from freezing in front of you like they will with white lights. I found that when I ran my yellow fogs with the headlights that I had fewer close calls driving the roads back then.
  21. Mounted mine in the center of my spare tire carrier so it is looking out of the center of my wheel. Works well enough over the last 15 or so years. Would be nice to have a lower one that can see my hitch for when I need to hook up to a trailer though.
  22. My 93 came with the factory fog lights installed before I bought it in 99. I suspect they were factory installed rather than dealer since it was a loaded SE. The web in the plastic insert was cut out to fit the lights and there was a pair of plastic trim covers to finish each end of the light if I recall correctly. You will need the 93-95 Pathfinder bumper mounting brackets as well to attach the bumper to the truck. You will also need the fog light mounting brackets if they are not included with the lights. If they are replacement lights, probably won't have them. I don't recall exactly but I think there was a small fender extension that attached to the bottom of the front fenders at the bottom to match up to the steel valence/trim under the front bumper. All that I removed many years ago from mine when I lifted my truck and built a front skid plate that has proven to be serious overkill. As has been said, the bumpers are light and pretty much decoration. If you are willing to spend a little more and put in some work, a custom or aftermarket off road bumper would be good way to go.
  23. Well, I was working at my local Nissan dealership until almost 2 years ago. Not sure about the Zinc deal and how much it changes things. My 93 Pathfinder had a bit over 200k miles before I replaced the engine due to the woodruff key for the timing belt sprocket destroyed the crankshaft and the pistons and valves got to know each other. My 85 300zx had over 200k miles too before I suspect the oil pump broke. I was tired of working on that car so never bothered to figure out what went in it. Neither one showed any noticable wear in the lifters or cams. I did have a cam failure in a Z20 engine, but that was caused by a broken rocker arm. None of my other Nissans or the ones I worked on have shown problems with wear on the lifter faces or lobes. Where I work now, we see a few failed cams per year in GMs and Chrysler engines. Almost never caused by the oil though.
  24. I don't recall any special break in process. It is said that when reinstalling used ones that they should be put back in the same spots they came out of. I know when I worked at the dealership there was nothing special we did when replacing lifters.
  25. It does sound like the drums are out of round. Not uncommon and easily fixed by having them trued on a brake lathe. A slight movement only at 12 and 6 is an indication of wear in the ball joints or sometimes in the suspension bushings. Once I saw the issue was caused by wear in the strut of a car. If it is less than 1/8" at the outer edge of the wheel, generally not a big issue. If it was bearing play, it would be all around. The best way to track it down is to have a helper wiggle the wheel while you are looking to see where the movement is. We do it all the time in the shops I have worked in. With the soft brake pedal, find a soft or slick surface you can get some speed on and do a few hard stops where the ABS activates. That will help push air out of the ABS valves and cycling them also ensures they are fully homed. Then do a gravity bleed and that should take care of the problem. With gravity bleeding, just put a piece of clear hose on the bleeder, open the bleeder a half turn and take the cap off the reservoir. Keep it full and when the air bubbles are gone out of the hose, indicates you are good. You can actually do all 4 at the same time, just close valves when the fluid is clear of air.
  • Create New...