Jump to content

If you receive an influx of emails from the forum, please disregard as they are cached.  Our email provider changed server settings without notifying us.  The new settings have been applied so normal mailings should resume, per system settings and user preferences.  This includes new account signup validation emails. - Updated: 06/11/2022 2:48PM PST

_______________________________________________________

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Mr_Reverse

Members
  • Posts

    645
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    31

Everything posted by Mr_Reverse

  1. I did with my 93. Your trans is starting to die and if you get it repaired now it is cheaper. First to go was reverse, but after a little while started losing forward gears. By the time mine went into the transmission shop, I only had 3rd left. Shop found my clutches and bands had lost all the friction material and scored the drum. Also found one of the planetary sets was heavily worn from lack of lubrication.
  2. I have had both bad starters and a failing ignition switch. I did things the hard way and replaced the starter a couple times when it was just the switch. You didn't mention if it was an auto trans or manual trans. If manual trans, there is a double size blue relay near the battery that is known to fail over time. It is the starter relay for the manual trans trucks. If auto trans, near the battery is a grey oval 2 wire connector. One wire is black with a violet stripe. That is the starter wire. A simple test is to unplug that connector and using a jumper wire, jump the black/violet wire to the positive terminal of the battery. If the starter cranks normally, then your problem is most likely a worn ignition switch. If it is still a slow or no crank, then the starter is bad.
  3. I swapped in a 3.3 into my 93 when I killed the original 3.0. the engine I go was from an Xterra(WD22) originally, was installed into a 96 R50, then into my WD21. I installed my plenum and exhaust manifolds from my 3.0, the manifolds fit fine, the holes were big enough to go over the 10mm studs without drilling. I swapped my 3.0 distributor and I believe I did the oil pan as well. Motor mount brackets bolted into the same places. I did get accessory brackets from Frontier/Xterras for the alternator, power steering and ac compressor. I was already running a Quest/Villager alternator that actually fit better with the D22 brackets. My steering pump was leaking so replaced it but only needed the pulley from the D/WD22 to make it work. Water pump is the 3.3 unit and the pulley is for the D/WD22. I had gone electric on the fan long before, but expect the clutch and fan will fit fine. I kept the lower intake manifold and injectors from the 3.3 and simply used parts of both engine wiring harnesses to connect everything. I wound up extending the oil pressure switch wire to reach the switch on the oil filter adapter, but could have simply pulled the plug in the block and put the switch in the same place as the 3.0. I put the sending unit for my aftermarket oil pressure gauge there in mine. All in all, not that hard a project and has been working fine for almost 20 years. I still don't have an ac compressor, but that is because it hasn't been a a daily driver for a long time and I find other expenses to take my money. Most of the time it isn't hot enough make living without ac in a truck that is mostly used for off pavement recreation.
  4. Sludge build up like you describe is usually an indication of neglect, though coolant leaking into the oil can also be a factor. A PCV system that isn't operating correctly can cause it too. If you have the heads off, go on and clean them up and put some assembly line on the cams and valve lifters when you reassemble. Then I would probably do a full with ATF and new filter. Let the engine idle for a while, drain and change the filter and refill with some 5W-30. Run it for a few hundred miles and change again. That should clean it out. Something the old timers would do is replace a quart of oil with kerosene or diesel fuel and do the idle routine. You don't want to put a load on the engine while cleaning it out, the lube will be too light and allow damage. One thing that concerns me is the condition of the bottom end. The main and rod bearings might be damaged by coolant contamination. My niece bought herself an 05 Altima last September. A couple weeks later either the head or head gasket let go, something the first generation 2.5 suffered from. I told her it would be cheaper and better to just replace the engine with one from a wreck. It wound up costing just under $200 for me to swap the engine. Can get them pretty cheap here, about $130 is what hers cost and a few hours of my time that she paid me for. My 93 Pathfinder has a 3.3 from an Xterra in it because it was cheaper and easier than repairing my original 3.0. Fits fine and runs well. With the 2 coolant hoses at the back, bulk hose will work fine for the straight one, but the space and bend is too tight, you need a molded one and I have found in my area at least the dealer part is competitive in price and the easiest to use.
  5. Friend of mine has a 31x10.50 15 tucked in there. Fits just fine on his stock 99 with I think a Nissan branded hitch.
  6. Once you get the magnet back in the pan, you don't need to drop the pan again on fluid changes. That "filter" you replaced isn't actually a filter. It is simply a fine screen that self flushes when the engine is shut off. So simply pulling the drain plug and replacing the fluid every 15-20k miles will keep the trans happy. Little trick to make reading the dipstick easier is to use a white paper towel and simply laying the dipstick down on the towel. The fluid will wick onto the towel showing where the the level is.
  7. The bolts I use to pull the balancer is a couple of 6x1.0 about 80mm long. I have a couple small fender washers on the head end to keep things from binding in my puller. I simply cut those 2 little rubber hoses at the back and replace them with new on reassembly. My local dealer stocks them and they don't cost much. With the heads, I would have them surfaced and the valve seals replaced at the very least. I would also use new headbolts since they are torque to yield and supposed to be replaced. That said, I did get away with just a new head gasket and bolts on my 1980 280zx when the 2.8L injested about 3L of water and blew out the gasket at #6 while crossing a flooded road.
  8. Regular use of the parking brake should keep the rear brakes properly adjusted. I live in an area with mountains, run 33x12.50 tires on my older and heavier WD21 and haven't had any warping issues. I have an automatic transmission also, but I also tend to manually down shift for the grades and pretty light on the brakes when driving.
  9. Whichever you like, both are good synthetic ATF.
  10. Friend of mine has a 99 with the same wheels. We put a set of Firestone AT in 31x10.50 on his with no mods and completely stock suspension. He gets light rubbing on the inner fender on a flat area when he makes full lock turns, but other than that, fit fine. He has a 31x10.50 spare stuffed up in the stock location as well.
  11. Full synthetic fluids. Front and rear axles use GL-5. With synthetic I find 70-90 works great. Manual transmission uses GL-4 do NOT use anything that says GL-5 in the transmission, it will destroy synchros and bushings. Once again, 70-90 works well. Automatic transmission, Dextron ATF up to Dextron VI, the fluid is backwards compatible. Transfer case uses the same fluid as transmission. Spec says ATF, but with manual trans GL-4 works as well. Steering uses ATF. Brake fluid should be changed if a couple years old. DOT 3 or 4 fluid.
  12. In the US, the 90-95 Pathfinder used the H233B rear axle with 31 splines. There were a couple of variations, disc brake and drum brake versions used different axle shafts and bearing retainers. The LSD and open diffs used different carriers. Finally transmission determined if the final drive ratio was 4.3:1 or 4.6:1. Somewhere along the line between 1987 and 1995 the H233B in the WD21 gained 2 more studs for mounting the center section, but I have heard it isn't a big deal. All this information is for 4wd WD21 All that said, disc brake versions usually had LSD. Drum brake had either open or LSD depending on options. 4.3 gears were found in manual transmission and 4.6 was auto. Years ago my 93 SE had its original equipment LSD and disc brakes. I liked it but wanted more. I had a friend that had a 95 XE with drum brakes, and he wanted a bit more as well. Both trucks were autos so had the same 4.6 gears. I bought a Lockright and the night before a Moab trip we swapped out the center sections of our rear axles. I put the Lockright into the open diff, it was very easy and simple and bolted in the center section into my disc brake axle. 18 or so years later, I am still driving with that same setup. Works fine. The LSD center section went into his drum brake axle housing fine, but we did make the discovery later that we had to add the spacer block I took out of his old differential carrier into my old LSD carrier to keep his axle bearings happy. After we got back from a week in Moab we did that and he had no problems for the couple years he had his truck. The Lockright was inexpensive and has been completely reliable in my truck running 33x12.50 tires, VG33, and an idiot behind the steering wheel. It will only fit the open diff, but it is a simple install and does make a noticeable difference over a LSD, even a healthy tight one like mine was.
  13. Jumping back into my way back machine, when I had Nissans with manual transmissions, I recall my 300 ZX and my Frankenstein 1980 200SX I built both had 3 switches in the transmission. One was for the reverse lights, and the other two were for the ECM. One was a neutral switch and the other was the overdrive (5th gear) switch. One part of the confusion is that what we call a transfer case is actually an auxiliary 2 speed transmission that is attached to the main transmission. They are separate units and the switches do different functions. The switches on the transfer case are for the 4wd indicator light. The reverse switch will always be on the transmission as will the neutral and overdrive. The speed sensor with the D and WD21s is a mechanical drive gear up to the 93 model year and doesn't have any wires, just a cable to drive the speedometer. 94 on uses an electronic sensor with wires. The speedometer drive or speed sensor (for the 94+) is mounted in the tail shaft housing of the transmission in the 2wd trucks. In the 4wd trucks it is mounted in the rear output shaft housing of the transfer case.
  14. Most likely your rear brakes are out of adjustment if your truck keeps warping the rotors. If the rear brakes are not adjusted properly, they will cause the front brakes to work harder and generate more heat into the small rotors. The automatic adjusters in the rear brakes are operated by the parking brake. If you don't apply the parking brake every time you park the truck, the rear brakes will not maintain proper adjustment.
  15. 5 is the back one for the right bank and you can see it. 6 is the rear one on the left bank and under the intake plenum.
  16. I relocated mine to the right side of the block above the oil filter. There are unused threaded holes in the side of the engine block and I just used one of them.
  17. If you want to go from an auto to manual, you will also need to get the clutch master cylinder, tubing, center console, floor plate, and transmission sub harness from a WD21. You will also need a flywheel and clutch assembly. You will also have to do some work on the wiring to make everything work correctly.
  18. Here in the US, from 1990 to 1995, the only engine available for the WD21 was the VG30. For a 4 cyl trans, your best bet would be from a Frontier. Once again, here in the US, if it is 4wd, Nissan pretty much used only the V6.
  19. From what I remember, the switches have a single wire and ground with the case. The reason for the 2 switches is one is for 4hi and the other is 4lo. No separate indicator lights between high and low range I think (haven't paid much attention for a long time), but the 2 switches are used so the light is on when in 4wd regardless of range.
  20. Sounds like a fault in the wiring to me. I would start by checking the voltage on the pump side of the relay to ensure it isn't burned contacts. If it is good there, but 8v at the pump, I would inspect the harness and connectors for damage or corrosion.
  21. Probably just a bad pump. I have replaced a few where the motor runs, but the impeller is bad.
  22. I have a similar problem with mine, though it is the left cancel that is not reliable. In my case I believe it is wear on the tabs on the steering wheel and the switch. With mine, it got worse when I replaced the steering wheel.
  23. I have no problems with most aftermarket bearings. Timken are good and an OEM supplier. For the races, all you really need is a brass or aluminum punch to drive the new ones into the hubs. You can use steel to knock the old ones out since you are not worried about damage to them. Once you clean the grease out, you will see that there are notches where you can put the punch to knock out the old races. The screws that lock the nut are soft, so easy to cam out the phillips heads. I find an impact driver works well to loosen them without damage. Biggest challenge is to find the socket that fits the nut. The socket for an early 90s Isuzu Trooper is easier to track down and works fine.
  24. Problem is the R50 is a unibody. There isn't a separate frame like the pickup and the WDs. You have the subframe, but the body is a structural part and the struts are bolted to the body. Generally, the R50 just doesn't have the value to make the expense of fixing the body structure properly worth while when wrecked like that. My daughter's 18 Versa was totaled and all the damage was in front of the front doors and windshield. The engine and trans were ok and even the windshield was unbroken.
  25. Do you have the auto or manual controls? It sounds more like the control head has a problem. If it was a bad resistor, it would work on high setting since that bypasses the resistor.

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...