Mr_Reverse

Yes, the larger pipe has the low side port. If it isn't getting cold, that is telling me that either the refrigerant isn't flowing or flowing too much. Is the small pipe hot? Either way, it sounds like your problem is not the temperature door. With the AC on and engine running, the hub of the AC pulley is turning with the pulley, correct? If so, you will need a set of pressure gauges to see what is going on. General rule of thumb I have seen with most ac systems, with ambiant temperature about 80-90°f, the low side should be about 30-40 psi and high side about 200-250 psi. If both are low, then the charge is usually low. If both are high, then the system is usually over charged. If the low side is low, high side normal or high, usually a restriction on the system. Low side pressure high with high side low or normal usually indicates an expansion valve stuck open. If both the high and low are close to the same, usually indicates a failed compressor. Fluttering needles on the gauges, usually happens on the high side, indicates failing valves in the compressor. If the hub of the compressor pulley is not turning or starts and stops frequently, you have either a pressure switch or electrical problem. All this assumes that your AC has a proper charge +/- 1/2 pound of 134a refrigerant.

Yep, if the engine is starting and running happy, not something to worry about. The ECU controls the timing anyway, so that is why it is only the base timing that can be set, and idle speed and all the other sensors have to be just right to use the light. Just the observation angle will make it look off. My light died last year, and I still haven't replaced it because I really don't use it much anymore. Perhaps once every year or two.

Is yours the manual a/c or automatic? If you have a full charge and the compressor is working, problem is likely the temperature control door in the HVAC system. One test you can do without tools or gauge set, is to start the engine, turn on the AC and after a minute, carefully touch the pair of pipes at the firewall. The large one should be cold to the touch and the small one should be hot. If that is what you get, that indicates that the system is working properly. If not, then there is a problem in the system that requires more work to diagnose.

Nope, nothing special other than having the engine warmed up and idle speed at spec. You do have to have the pickup on #1 cyl. Does your timing light have a 2cycle/DIS setting? Does it have advance? If so on either of those, you need to have it set for standard 4 cycle and the advance set to either 0 if you want to use it in the traditional way or set to the spec if you want to do the easy adjust. If none of that works or you don't have adjustments on your light, it is possible the crankshaft pulley has been off and reinstalled clocked incorrectly. That puts the timing marks in the wrong place.

Well, the distributor would be off, but don't believe it would be 180°, you have a 6 cyl 4 cycle engine. My mind is tired and don't really want to figure all the variables. I find it easier to just ensure TDC compression. You can do this by pulling #1 plug, put something like a cotton ball in the hole and turn the crankshaft by hand while watching the ball. When it pops up, you know you are on the compression stroke. Then you can use a long screwdriver or other rod that is long enough to reach the piston top. Watching the rod, turn the crankshaft until the rod hits it's highest point. That will have you at TDC compression. Then you can install the distributor with the rotor arm pointing to #1 tower on the cap. I find it easier to mark the base of the distributor where #1 is so aligning that rotor is easier. Set the distributor into place and see how far the rotor turns. Then pull the distributor back out, turn the rotor the same distance the opposite side of the mark. Then when you put the distributor back in, the rotor should be lined up with your mark. That should get you pretty much at 0° TDC. You should be able to get the engine to start and finish setting the base timing.

Sounds like either you had a timing belt jump, or you don't have the engine at top dead center on the compression stroke. I suggest you ensure you have the engine at TDC on compression and try reinstalling the distributor since that is easier. Otherwise, you will need to pull the top timing cover off to ensure the cams and crank are properly aligned.

Glad it was a simple and cheap fix. You have adventures ahead with the rest of the fleet.

Yep, the cam and crank sensors are combined and mounted under a dust cover in the distributor. It is an optical unit that uses a rotor plate that has 6 slots with one larger one for the crank sense and 360 tiny ones on the edge of the rotor for the cam sensor. Generally it is about $20 more for a complete distributor than just the sensor assembly. Seems like it is working fine until it goes into closed loop. It is possible the problem is a failing O2 sensor that is reading wrong. I don't recall exactly which mode you can put the ECU into to monitor the O2 sensor switching, but that info is easily found. Another possibility is a bad engine coolant temperature sensor. If it is giving incorrect readings, the engine will not be happy. Try checking the spark strength when engine is cold vs warmed up. If the coil is breaking down or the distributor is starting to fail, you might be getting a weaker spark when everything is warmed up. Those are the best I have off the top of my head when I am supposed to be asleep.

More likely something loose or missing. It was working until you pulled it out, the shaking it got in the removal and install could have knocked a loose solder joint out. I have and use a Snap-on Zeus that I use daily at work, but it is anything but inexpensive. I also have an Autel Autolink AL329 that I got a while back for $70 on a tool truck. I use that little thing a lot too, mostly when doing test drives to reset the emissions monitors to see when the car is ready for testing. It is nothing great, but does offer some data monitoring. You can probably find something that lets you use your phone for basic OBD2 data and code reading for pretty cheap.

If you think the oil filter location on your 3.3, you would really hate the filter on the VG30 in the WD21 and pickup. As said, it is simple, just pull the splash panel off(I find it hard to call that flimsy plastic panel a skid plate) and using a piece of cardboard or similar as a funnel to direct the oil to the catch pan. A little degreaser when done and good to go. I can think of so many other cars that are much worse for making a mess or hard to get to the filter. Suzuki Vitara with the V6 comes to mind. Pretty much any 4wd GM truck is a bit special in oil changes as well.

For the ignition switch, I suggest your favorite parts supply that has it. You can check it by accessing it and see if the back of the switch is loose from the body. That is what I found with mine last year when I installed a keyless ignition. I had done a work around about 16 years ago when the 3rd starter gave me problems after install. It was tested before install, so knew it was good. Found a substantial voltage drop at the solenoid wire at the starter, so I installed a relay by the battery. The starter wire ran the relay which took a lot less current to work. The relay then sent power to the starter solenoid. Simple fix that I have retained. Also makes it a lot easier to hotwire the starter in case of issues with the rest of the system and to see if the problem is the starter or somewhere else, like the gear selector switch or inhibitor relay.

If you have access to a cheap scan tool or better code reader that can show data, you can see if the VSS is sending a signal because both the ECU and TCU use that data. If you have tried unplugging and replugging the connectors, you might want to check for damage on the connector pins and sockets. If the VSS is working and the connections are good, then you might have to go into the cluster and inspect the speedometer itself for anything visible. If you have access to another cluster, you can try plugging that one in to see if it works.

Probably inside the cluster. Either you don't have a good connection between the harness and cluster for the speedometer or it is possible that the speedometer has an internal failure. I doubt the speed sensor or wiring is at fault since the ECU apparently is getting the information. It will throw a VSS code if it can't tell the speed. It won't know and couldn't care less if the speedometer in the cluster is dead. That is for newer cars where the cluster is another module on that network.

Is it an automatic transmission or manual? If it is an automatic, I suggest replacing the ignition switch on the back of the ignition lock. It is a common fail part that causes a lot of starter issues. If it is a manual transmission, try replacing the big blue relay on the fender next to the battery. That is the starter relay and had a reputation for causing starting issues back when our trucks were young. That relay is only on manual transmission trucks. If neither of those work, it is possible that you simply have a bad starter. Seeing that you have replaced the starter already, you probably got a parts store remanufactured unit. I did that a year ago on mine. A couple days later, the starter solenoid stuck on for a while. I had to pull a battery cable to get it to shut off. Being up in the mountains by myself in a snow shower at the time, was kind of stressful. A couple wacks on the starter got it working again but was in the back of my mind that it's days were numbered since the motor was smoking by the time I got the power disconnected. Last month it simply died in the driveway. All that story is about, is just because the starter was replaced, it doesn't mean it is not the problem, it could simply be a bad one out of the box.

With the age and distance on the engine, cost of the new parts and machine work, you are better off just swapping in a good VG from another truck. With that milage(don't know what you call it when in kilometers, kiloage just doesn't sound right) you don't want to do the top end and not do the bottom as well. You will shortly have bottom end and piston issues. I did what I consider a simple and inexpensive swap in my 93 when the key for the timing belt sprocket on the crankshaft broke and the pistons and valves had a fight over territory. I swapped a VG33 from a first gen Xterra in. I swapped the distributor and intake plenum from my original engine, parts from both subharness for the new style injectors and my older solenoids, sensors, and distributor. Was pretty simple in my opinion. I kept the 33's accessory brackets and power steering pump. I had upgraded to a Quest/Villager alternator years before and found that it fit fine on the Xterra/Frontier bracket. I just swapped back to the multirib pulley that it originally had. I don't have a/c in my truck, the compressor gave out years before the engine and I never got around to fixing that. I also swapped the exhaust manifolds from the 30 to the 33, they fit just fine. I think I changed the oil pan as well, but not sure. My engine did have a side trip in a 96 R50 for a couple years before it moved into my 93. So there was some other fiddling I wound up doing, but if I had just pulled it from a Frontier/Xterra, I would not have had to mess with.

Just replaced some of mine recently, but can't recall the PN. All. 8 bushings are the same. I got mine through Amazon, though I think your local parts store should be able to get them as well. I have pretty much given up on the things in my Pathy, considering building new links and using Jonny joints or something similar when I can find the extra money and interest to work on my truck again. Currently looking for a transmission for the 09 Altima I bought cheap a couple weeks ago and fixing the neglected and worn out stuff in my DD, the 04 Sorento my daughter gave back to me a month ago.

Only suggestion I have is to go under the dash and where the cable is attached to the linkage, disconnect the cable and see if you can move the linkage to the vent positions. If so, you have a cable problem. If not, you have a problem in the HVAC mode doors or their linkage. If you set it to floor only, you will get the cooling with less window fogging.

From the back of the front doors to the front bumper, the 2 door and 4 doors are the same. The frame and running gear is the same between both. Here in NA, the pickup trucks in the same years were the same from the front doors forward as well in the bodies. Frames were a bit different though.

In answer to the original question, if the distributor and cap/rotor are like what we had here in North America, the dual spark cap/rotor is physically too big to fit the single distributor. My experience was with my 1980 200sx(Silvia for the rest of the world since it was a hatchback). My car was a federal emissions so had the single spark ignition. 1980 California and 1981 on for NA had the dual ignition on the Z series engines. I crushed the oil pan and wound up welding #2 rod to the crankshaft. So replaced engine. The replacement was a low mileage Japan engine and required lots of changes to work in my car.that one required me to swap the distributor/oil pump drive to fit my distributor to the engine. Move on a few years and the engine I built for that car used the dual spark head and I found the distributor/oil pump shaft was different length between the single and dual spark distributor. I had updated the electrical in the car from an 83, so was easier to swap to a dual spark distributor and drive than make the single spark work with my ECU and wiring.

The capacity specifications for engines is a base line. There are little differences that affects actual capacity. I would trust the dipstick more than the manual from my 20+ years as a professional auto mechanic. If you fill to the dipstick full marking, run the engine up to operating temperature, then shut it off. Pull the dipstick, if the oil looks normal, you are ok. If it is foamy, you have too much, and need to reduce the fill a bit. You will want to check the oil level with the engine at operating temperature, since it will affect the level in the sump. You only need to let it sit for a minute or so, longer won't affect the level in a measurable way.

I installed a T into the cooler line. Threaded the sensor into the T and so get the temp of the oil as it comes out the trans before it gets to the cooler. The return line will give less accurate temp readings so make sure you get the right line.

With the heavy gauge cabling used to power a winch, even in the unlikely event of a dead short, the chance of fire is pretty low. The heavy cable usually can handle more amps than the battery can provide for the short time before the battery has an internal melt down killing it. In the grand scheme of things, a battery isn't particularly expensive, often less than a tire, and if a little care is used in the winch install, chances of a dead short are pretty small as well. Like everything else in life, it is a balancing act of, cost vs effectiveness vs practical. We each have our own levels of risk we are comfortable with in everything. Myself to example, the Covid virus doesn't worry me and I am high risk due to severe asthma from birth. I don't bother with a mask, gloves, and sanitizer. I use soap and water and just go on. Seems to have worked for me even though I spend 50+ hours per week in other people's cars. However I am less confident in people around me, so I carry at least one loaded firearm with at minimum, a full reload pretty much all the time. Seems odds are more likely I will catch the virus and suffer harm from it than be attacked by someone, but that is just me and my fears.

You won't find a fuse for the winch power due to the high current draw of the motor under load. Much like the starter motor but winch motors pull more and much longer than starters. That is why many winch install kits have a shut off switch near the battery. It is possible there is a high amp breaker switch somewhere in the circuit. My current battery in my Pathfinder is a large(group 48?) AGM made by Deka but branded as Duracell from Sam's club. $160 with 3 year free replacement warranty was hard to beat for an AGM that seems to get good reviews from the boating world. I added a voltmeter many years ago to my truck and have observed voltages running everywhere from 13v to almost 16 with it and I know the alternator charging control is completely in the built in regulator in the alternator. My alternator is from a late 90s Quest, so has twice the current output than the stock unit my truck had. I did up size the charging cable when I observed the original smoking while I was jump starting a truck shortly after the alternator upgrade, but other than that, basically stock and has been working fine for more than 15 years.

Honestly don't think that it really matters. AGM batteries have lower internal resistance than conventional wet cells. The higher charging voltages on the label are generally for external charging within certain conditions. I have been running AGM batteries in all my autos for over 20 years and haven't had any issues from operating alternators according to the battery testers. I do try and do an external charge and equalization a couple times a year to keep them healthy. I don't believe the R50 has an ECU control on the charging system, I believe it is all contained in the regulator built into the alternator. If you want to try it out, get the fuse and replace the alternator fuse in your fuse box. Doubt there will be a noticable change.

That price sounds about average for a used TB installed. The throttle relearn process isn't hard, but does go faster and easier when you have a scan tool that can do it. Just for the record, a throttle relearn should be done anytime work is done involving the intake system right down to throttle body cleaning. Also, it is a good idea to either disconnect the battery or unplug the throttle body before cleaning or manually opening the throttle plate. Sometimes the motor drive or sensors can be damaged if done while there is any power in the electronics.