Mr_Reverse

Yep, I was a single dad with 2 kids when I got my Pathfinder. Now I have been grandpa for 5 years. Family always has priority. I wish you well and hope you and yours the best. By the way, my daughter practically was raised in that old Pathfinder on many trails. She says it is hers when I pass on and she used to take it out for wheeling weekends a few years ago when I doing better. Now she has my Sorento and I wouldn't be surprised if she has used low range in it a few times.

Yep what he said. 93 model year is the transition year where you have to have the manufacture date as well to hope for the right parts. Lots of little changes. That is when they also changed the bumpers and lower front parts of the front fenders, fog lights, a one year only instrument cluster and even changed the O2 sensor type. I think it was the 87-89 that had the mag style lug nuts for the aluminum wheel. 90 was another big change year, they changed the VG30I to the VG30E, added a pair of doors, and dropped the 2.4 4 cyl engine for the US models.

Sounds like yours was the fully loaded one. Kinda funny how it put high end luxury cars of only 5 to 10 years older to shame with all the touches, and at at a lower price at the time too, isn't it? Me I find myself yearning for usable cupholders these days.

Added a big bullseye rock chip to the windshield directly in front of the driver just below the vertical center line. The thing is a good 24 mm at the moment, probably going to add cracks soon. Was up the canyon again and on my way out and a side by side passed me going up. Somehow it not only kicked the rock up and to his left, but threw it to the front as well. Oh well, at least I have 0 deductable on my glass with the insurance on my truck. Yet something else to deal with sometime.

2002? I knew that Nissan was a very early pioneer of the system, but didn't realize it was that early. Yep it is great. They have really refined it to a great level in the new Nissans. While I was working at the dealership, I decided to give one an in-depth test after going through a training module on it. On my test drive loop I used, I set the cruise at 60 on the freeway, then got off onto a trunk road that the dealership was on about a mile from the freeway. I never touched the brakes all the way back to the dealership. It was kinda freaky that the car slowed down and matched the speed of the car in front of me and kept the distance pretty well. What was really wild was at the red light, the car in front stopped and so did the one I was driving. When the light went green, we both started going again. A few months later, I had a chance to try out a Maxima with the propilot, that was really crazy, the car pretty much drove itself as long as I kept my hand on the wheel. With my hands off, after about 30 seconds (was on a lightly traveled surface street with a 30 mph limit) the car pulled itself over to the right and stopped. It was beeping and flashing warnings to me, but the system worked surprisingly well. I have driven a few different cars with lane assist, but to me, the Nissan system seemed the least intrusive, but calibration of all the cameras and sensors is a PITA.

Yep, those hinges are for the wing spoiler. My 93 is an SE and so came with the spoiler. Years back a friend of mine had a 95XE without it. After a few trail runs together and travel on dirt roads we noticed that the rear window of his always had a thick layer of dust blocking vision, and mine would have only a thin layer that hardly was noticable. We found one in a local Junkyard and that was when we noticed that the hinges are different. Swapped the hinges and installed the wing and his rear window stayed clear also.

Does it blow while just sitting, or while driving? Does your truck have electrical add one? These gremlins are a PITA to track down at times. Sometimes you have to do a visual inspection of the wiring to track it down. Last year had a F150 that kept blowing a fuse that I couldn't find the problem in traditional ways. I wound up going into the harness and cutting the splice where the 6 different circuits were connected near the fuse. I then wired in 6 fuse holders and labeled them. With fuses a size smaller in each of those holders waited for one to blow. I don't recall what was bad ultimately, but that did manage to isolate the problem area. A few weeks ago, I asked the owner if it was still fixed and he said no problems, so it worked.

Governor of Utah said the state is too varied for a one-size-fits-none and is leaving a lot of the restrictions to the local governments of the counties and cities. It does cause some confusion for the idiots and invaders from California, but for the rest of us is just enough to keep us from rebellion for now. If it goes on for another month, I believe all bets will be off and the people will say bite-me and go back to life. Where I am in Davis county north of Salt Lake, a lot of closures, but still able to go out and go for walks and drives within the area.

Yep, my 77 200sx I was running about 32°. That was after removing all the emissions hardware and a bigger carb. Cold starts were sometimes a bit hard, idle was rough, and the engine ran a bit hot, but did free up a noticable amount of power. Never had any detonation problems though. I was running 87 fuel and 4400 ft was about as low as I ever got, so was able to get away with it. The emissions tests here only tested for CO and HC, so was able to pass ok. Shudder to think how high my NOx must have been though.

Like I said before, only need it once or twice a year. Would prefer to just replace the strobe bulb, but can't seem to find one. So I probably will get a new one someday. Just not a priority and have lots of other things to pay for. Like my scan tool, my snap-on rep told me a few weeks ago that they might be discontinuing support on mine in the next year or two. Makes sense, it is about 12 years old, but $8k is a bit more than I can finance right now. That is what it would have been after discounts and trade in of my current Verus Pro.

Yep, bodywise, the parts can be swapped around. A little thing I discovered while working at the Nissan dealership, the QX4 in 2004 I think it was offered an early version active cruise control.

Oops, sorry. Bad memory on the timing spec. The cost on the light I have is about $130 on Amazon. I think I bought mine for about the same price at AutoZone, looking back, closer to 20 years ago than the 10 I was thinking. I liked it because I am an auto mechanic for my profession and found it more convenient than the ones that had a trigger that had to be held while using. Also, the voltmeter, tach, and being able to select between 4 and 2 cycle were bonuses. I think I used the dwell function a couple times, but that was back when it was new. it has been a long time since I had to work on an engine that had contact points. When I got it I was looking for one with advance to replace the light that got destroyed when my home burned down a few years before. That light had advance and I fell in love with that and decided it was a must-have.

In some ways I am. I do love the freedoms of living in the USA and Utah is one of the best states in my opinion. Great variety of terrain, only lacking a sea shore, and enjoys more personal freedoms than most of the country. We even have an official state gun! The 1911 creator John Moses Browning was from Ogden Utah, and created it here about a 20 min drive from where I currently live.

Yep, drove a 280zx 2+2 for a few years before I got the Pathfinder. Had a 75 280z and the 85 300zx. Definitely had fun times with those cars, but was also a bit frustrating at times. The 280s had inline 6 engines that were torque monsters. The 300 had a VG30E, that is why I originally got it, I figured $300 for a good spare engine for my Pathfinder, then I got foolish and decided to fix the car. All my Z cars were manual transmission but by the time I got my Pathfinder in 99, I was done with manuals and didn't find them good to live with. Half hour of city driving and my left knee would start grinding and put me in great pain. I am old, so most of my cars were ancient by today's standards and finding parts got too hard.

I had an Inova 5568 for over 10 years. I liked it a lot, but is a bit overkill for shade tree mechanics and even more so now days when very few cars have adjustable timing. A few months ago, I tried to use it and found the non replaceable strobe bulb has died. I am finding it hard to justify the cost of another one when I need one once a year or so. As for timing, with the old Pathfinder, the hood label gives the spec of 10°BTC. Mine is about 15° due to my elevation. The spec is for sea level, and the old rule of thumb was to add 1° for every 1000 ft of elevation. Same reason regular gas here is 85 octane. The thinner air reduces compression in the cylinder, so requires fuel a bit easier to ignite.

Yep, will be fine. A very familiar sound to people who teach others how to drive a manual transmission. I had an easy one when teaching my nieces, my 85 300zx, but still had the familiar clatter and stall. It gets more interesting when it happens in the middle of a left turn and the niece is panicking while watching the lifted F350 aimed at you at 50 mph. Keeping calm helps a LOT to get the excitable girl to restart and get the car out of the way. I had the job of teaching mine and my sister's kids how to drive because it takes a lot to get me excited. Out of them all, only my daughter appreciates low range and is enthusiastic about using it.

I am still going to work 5 days per week. I am an auto mechanic so one of the "essential" workers. So after I put in my 8 to 6 day, I go home and read, sometimes watch something and sleep. Utah is one of the few states that is still allowing people out if they keep things reasonable. Our governor says the demographics make a one size fits all mandate unreasonable. So it was left to the counties and cities to decide how much they are going to limit our freedoms. So if I am not working on my truck on Thursdays ( one of my off days) or doing some other chores after being lazy and sleeping in, I am able to isolate myself in my truck and drive around. The last 2 Sundays I managed to stay in until noon, then I went out and drove up a local canyon into the mountains. Played in the mud and snow a bit, burned off some ammo doing some target shooting, picked up about 40 pounds of spent brass (folks here are getting a little stir crazy and the ranges are either closed or have lines, so they have discovered the fun of outdoor shooting on public land) and generally relaxed. I have reaffirmed that .40 S&W is a round that simply doesn't excite me. I need to find a 357 Sig barrel for my Sig P239 and see what that does. Still have ammo for the 9's, 380's, .45 ACP, .45 Colt, and .22's, even the .223. But for the most part, been having just as much fun with the lowly .22 rimfires as I do with the center fires. The ammo is cheaper too, so it is mostly just the little ones that are getting used.

Also, don't lose the little filter screens in the front cover for the cam phasers. It isn't a terrible job but does take a lot of time and there are a couple of small O-rings that will need replacing too.

Nope. Just a wild question, but how good is your fuel? If you have an excessive amount of water built up in your tank, it can cause some issues or it is possible that you have some bad fuel. Happened to me a few years back, I had a 2013 Altima SV with the 3.5 that I bought new. My daughter was driving it and it died on her a couple miles after she refilled the tank. I was at work, car was under warranty and had towing on the insurance. Told her to get it towed to the dealership. A little under $500 dollars later, car was fine again. The fuel she put in was contaminated with something. The dealership said that they didn't have any idea of what it was, but the fuel was milky. They had wound up cleaning out the tank and flushing the fuel system. Since it wound up being a fuel problem, I had to eat the cost. No receipt for the fuel, so no reasonable way to have the gas station pay. My daughter always insists on a receipt when she gets fuel ever since that happened. You might want to disconnect the fuel line at the filter and pump about a pint into a glass jar then let it sit for a while. If you have excessive water or other contamination, it will seperate and you will see it. If there is excessive water, you might want to run the tank out to empty and then drain the rest out. If you are still planning on replacing the pump, that is a good idea anyway.

When the engine is under high load and very low RPM, knocking is normal. It isn't good for the engine since it is metal on metal contact but a few times generally won't be a problem. At the low rpms, there is low oil pressure and flow. The oil flowing at operating pressure normally keeps all the moving parts floating so they don't make actual contact. When the pressure drops low enough, the moving parts like the crank, rods, pistons, and cams come into contact and it is violent and unhealthy. That is why most engine wear happens on cold starts.

Takes a surprisingly long time to purge the air out of the fuel rails when injectors get replaced. Takes forever it seems like when on a modern returnless system. Glad it is happy now, good luck with the pump, be gentle with it. The wires are on the delicate side when over 25 years old and the pump module screws are very soft and easily damaged.

Response to the last few posts. I did some driving around after work today, I can confirm that the ProComp ES9000 is a great shock for a WD21. Smooth and compliant, but still keeps the springs controlled. A great value in my opinion. My rears are a pair of Bilsteins that were from a 2018 Titan Pro4x. Had a pile of new ones that were getting thrown away while I was at the dealership. They were removed from new trucks that got lifted. At the price(free), I and a coworker decided why not give them a try? He put a pair on the back of his lifted 03 Pathfinder and I did the same with my 93. We did have to drill out the bushing eyes to 9/16" to fit over the mounting studs on our trucks and had to grind them a bit thinner, but made them fit. Seems to be working good on the rears of our trucks. The Firestone Destination MT's are priced in the mid range, my 33x12.50 15's come out to about $250 per tire. They have a 3 ply sidewall, unbelievable grip, very good road manners, long life due to a very thick tread 22/32". They are also lighter than most others out there. Look at tire rack reviews, most people who try them, love them. The ones on the rear of my truck have about 2k miles on them of mostly pavement pounding, put them on last summer. My Pathfinder has a LockRight locker in the rear and at least 300 pounds of "stuff" in the back. Looking at the tires, they still look new with no cuts, chunking, or noticable wear on the tread blocks. I run mine at about 28 psi for the street and light wheeling. Haven't been out doing harder stuff for a long time, but when I was in Moab I kept dropping until I was about 8-10 psi. Never had a flat with any of them either, but only had one flat with my Pathfinder in the 21 years I have owned it, and that one was on my first Moab trip where I managed to snag a sidewall, so I guess I am just lucky concerning punctures with my Pathfinder. Try them, I honestly believe you will be happy with them. 21 years with my Path, still no broken door handles somehow, knock on wood...

Update. Found some spare time at the end of the day at work today. The old Ranco 5000's are now gone with a pair of new ProComp ES9000's in their place. At less than $40 each a good deal. They actually fit better after I put the small bushing in than the Ranchos. Haven't really tested them yet, but in the short drive home(2 blocks) seemed a bit better. I spent 7 hours last Sunday seeing how far up the mountain I could get, and had interesting noises from the right front where the broken shock was. Another plug for what are in my opinion, the best all around tires I have found for my truck. I loved my Firestone Destination MTs I put on back in 07, but the Destination MT 2's I have now are even better. Smooth quiet grip on pavement wet or dry, and unbelievable grip and control in snow and mud. Made it up the canyon to about 8800 feet to the snow gates in 2wd with no problems at all. Even when I pulled off to the side to wait for a couple others get a stuck pulled out of the middle of the road. Springtime in Utah, started with sunny and warm, got a little rain, then a couple inches of snow with thunder and lightning then just cool and overcast finishing up with a bit of rain after I got home. Truck is filthy, covered with a wierd mix of sand and clay mud but never missed a beat even in 18" of snow. Actually had to work a bit to stay in the ruts, kept climbing out when I was slow to make a turn. Usually I don't like to be in the ruts, but I also don't like the idea of going off the edge of a narrow canyon dirt road when the snow shifts either. I have decided that between the fantastic tires and the rear locker, when I get stuck, I am really stuck.

The WD21 came with them. Took several years for me to find out what those 2 pieces of tubing were for. Don't know if the R50 had them too. I have never used mine that I can think of, I have a sparkplug socket with a universal joint built in. I use it, a short(I think 3") locking extension, a second u-joint and another extension to do the infamous #6 plug. Also use plenty of profanity while lying on top of the engine and radiator support with the hood latch and other sharp bits drilling into my gut while hitting my head on the hood. Not bad to do #6 with my WD21, 3" bodylift makes a lot of things easier to get at, but with the R50, no easy way to do it unless you already have the intake plenum off for other work. That is a miserable job in itself there.

Today was my day off and didn't have any pressing things to do(not that there is much I could do with this stupid overblown virus panic), so did something stupid. I decided to install the bronze idler arm bushings I have had for a while and replace the worn UCA bushings on the right front. I found the idler arm bushings fit very tight. I used my my balljoint press to seat the bushings into the idler arm and then had to use it again to install the arm onto the mount. No more play in the idler arm. If I had been smart, I would have stopped there and found something else to do. I am an idiot. Tried to remove the mounting nut for the top of the front shock. The stem snapped off. Off to order a pair of new shocks, at least I have an excuse to get rid of the crappy Rancho 5000's that have been there since 2001. Not a fan of those on my truck. Moved on and unbolted the UCA from the frame and upper ball joint. Now the fun really begins. I notice the mounting spindle is bent again. I have only replaced that one twice, now I need to do it again. I start pressing it out, and the bushing on one end is siezed to the spindle and the other is showing no interest in letting go of the UCA. Finally get the spindle out and find my UCA is bent and twisted. Not a big deal if my truck was still stock, but nooo, my arms are the AC lift arms. Finally get the second bushing out, by balljoint press got a lot of work today and was doing all this work in my bay at the shop I work at, so I am not completely helpless, but I am doing a lot of swearing. Fortunately, business has slowed so not impeding anybody else. Some work with a hammer got the arm back into shape sort of. Had plenty of irritation to vent so the hammer work was kinda useful. Went on to pound on the spindle and got it close. Still need to find and order a new pair. Got the stuck bushing off by using the torch and air hammer. Killed one of the washers in the process. New bushings were just that, just bushings. Went for a little walk to the local hardware store and found some replacements. Reinstalling the spindle, found the arm had spread a bit. Forced things together and reinstalled the arm. Got everything put back together minus the right front shock, might see the new ones next Monday if the virus doesn't screw with that too much. Time to move to the alignment rack and see how bad everything is. Got the heads on and comped, performed the caster measurement and stood there in shock looking at the numbers. I haven't seen them that good in years. My camber is almost dead on with both and the caster is only 2 degrees below the minimum. The computer is telling me I only need to pull 1/16" out of both rear UCA mount stacks to fix that. Since they are all washers at the moment, not happening, just dealing with having some negative caster and the freeway speed instability it brings for now. Burn that bridge when I get around to finding some replacement UCAs and spindles. So I set the toe and drove about 20 miles to return a throttle body and ECU core for the 2000 Maxima I had been fighting with for the last couple weeks. Yes the truck was a bit unstable and tended to wander and wallow about at 70 mph. Hoping it gets a little better when the right front has a shock to help dampen the movements. Found that the steering gear has a bit of slop in the straight ahead position, hopefully the replacement I have is better. Thinking about reinstalling the front swaybar again, if I can find the mounts for it again, probably just pull them from one in the junkyard. So many things I have to do to my poor old and abused 27 year old truck to get it back to where it can be a DD again. I really need to find a cheap car for DD since my daughter has the Sorento, but really can't afford it right now. Then again, having a hard time finding the money and parts for the old Pathfinder too. Anyway had to vent. Sorry no photos to share, the camera in my phone doesn't like to focus and I have not figured out where to host them anyway. So I haven't bothered taking any snaps. Oh by the way, it isn't just the VQ35 R50s with throttle cables that have IAC issues that fry the ECUs, the Maximas with the VQ30 have similar issues. So much fun...