Mr_Reverse

ECU, wiring harnesses, intake hose, air filter assembly, O2 sensor that matches the ECU. That is the major parts, it should all be a bolt in otherwise.

You can say the same when putting HID into a halogen light. Not a proper housing and performance will suffer. The new gen of LED headlights do work well. Also the auto manufacturers have gone away from HID in favor of LED for the headlights. One thing that kept me from trying HID in my Pathfinder was I would have to give up the high beams and that was not acceptable for me because until last year, my truck had to pass an annual safety inspection to be licenced for operation on public roads. High/low beams were a requirement. A friend of mine who went LED in his Tacoma a few years ago said they were better than the HID's he had in it before, until the first big snowstorm, then he found that his headlights were too cold and wouldn't melt the snow build up on the lights. Me, my lights don't seem to ice up.

Not always. You can have good voltage but if the amps aren't there, the battery won't charge. Most auto parts stores will do a free charging system test for you. I have in the past had a diode fail in the alternator and that caused excessive ripple that shortened the life of the battery. They don't seem to like AC current.

Wasn't sure that they were still making them. Haven't had much interest either since I like a wider tire, just my personal preference. Just for the record, I didn't notice much of a power loss when I went from my factory 31x10.50's to my current size of 33x12.50. Possible it is because I have the automatic trans, they are a little less sensitive than the manual trans. Also for the record, I love the Firestone Destination MT. I put a set on 11 years ago and thought they were the best truck tire I ever had. Smoother, quieter, and better grip than the BFG AT's I had. The new MT2 they have now is even better, at least for me. They actually grip snow and even with the locker there was no drama or 4wd needed the last snow storm.

Just be prepared to pay a lot with very little selection if you choose to go the 33x10.50 15. I am not sure if even BFG is still making that size. I am running 33x12.50 15's on my Pathfinder and the selection there is less than half of what it was only 10 years ago. The 2 Firestone Destination MTs I put on the rear a couple months ago still cost me $550 and that was with my work discount of cost + 10% and I did the install. Trying to save up for a couple more for the front to replace the ones I put on a bit more than 11 years ago. You will have better pricing and selection with a 31x10.50 15. Even more so if you were to go with a 265 75 16, but that requires changing the wheels to a 16x7 with about 4.8" of backspace to fit your truck.

I never could understand why people feel fluids like steering fluid, brake fluid and such are "lifetime fluids". Why do we change the oil in the engine, trans, diffs, coolant? Because the fluids break down over time and the additives get used up leading to problems down the road. That said, yes steering fluid used in our old Nissan trucks is simply Dextron ATF, so no legitimate reason to not change it once in a while. The fluid does break down over time and neglect will cause wear in the pump and gear. A cooler is also a good idea in trucks with larger tires and or used off road.

Well, you can always replace the spark plugs while the plenum is off, #6 is a lot easier to get at then.

I would have to look it up, but I believe the 1448 is a fault in the circuit for the valve. So probably the valve. Leaking cap usually sets a P0440 and or P0445 for a system leak. You can test it by removing the valve and using a couple of jumper wires to the battery. It should make a solid click as it closes with power on. With it on, try blowing through it, it should not allow you to blow through it. Off should be open and blow through it easily. I have replaced a few of the vent valves because they will get dirt and water in them preventing them from sealing and a couple simply seized and wouldn't move.

The Sealight bulbs in my Pathfinder are replacements for the 9004 halogens and they are much better. They do have some interesting patterns on walls but on the road do a better job. They are listed as 6000k. To me they are a cold white. I see better in the higher end of the spectrum, so works for me much better than the warmer light from the halogens. Same thing with the Hikari bulbs in the Sorento. They have a good pattern and are more white than the halogens, so I see better with them. I went with the $40 Hikari rather than the higher end ones, because I am cheap and my research led me to believe that the difference was not worth the extra money. My brother put the Hikari Ultras in his Armada, and they don't seem to be any better than the "Eye of Megatron" units I got. With the Sorento, it was an easy decision since I would only get about 9 months out of the H7 low beam bulbs anyway. Got over a year so far with the LEDs and they were only about $10 more for the pair than the halogens. Pathfinder has had her Sealight bulbs for about 6 months so far and no issues.

Which lights are you thinking of? I have Hikari LED conversion headlight bulbs in my 04 Sorento that have worked well. I have a pair of Sealight conversion bulbs in my 93 Pathfinder that are working good for me. Both brands were not very expensive and bought them on Amazon. As for the rest of the lights, just a random mix of LED bulbs that I got from Amazon cheap, but had decent ratings. They have been working fine. I replaced my flasher unit with one that is LED compatible and that solved the hyperflash problem without messing with resistors. I really do need to take some photos and figure out how to post them sometime.

There is a pair of small coolant hoses at the rear of the engine that T off the heater lines. They connect to hard lines on the bottom of the intake plenum. They are a PITA to deal with, so anytime I have to pull the plenum, I just get a pair of replacements before I start. Then I will just cut them to get the plenum out of the way and replace them when I put it back together. One is a straight hose about 3-4" long and the other is L shaped and similar size. Most likely the source of your leak. The other possibility is the heater line that runs from the thermostat housing to the back of the engine down in the valley under the intake manifold. This is a hard line, but does have a rubber hose at the back of the engine.

Aren't you worried about damage to the sensor since it will be on the bottom of the pan and begging to snag something? I had briefly thought of doing the same thing, but decided it would be too exposed there. So it wound up in a T fitting on the transmission outlet line.

If you are talking about the the green cap, that is the evap service port for attaching a smoke machine to look for leaks in the evap system. It is very low pressure 1-2 psi and higher pressures can do damage. The only way to clean out the lines is to disconnect at both ends and then flush them out. If carbon is in the purge or vent lines, the canister must be replaced because it is damaged internally.

The lean code takes priority since a lean condition will cause a misfire. I am more inclined to think an air leak than fuel delivery since the misfire is happening at low engine speed. Do a visual inspection of the intake hose and the breather hoses. The intake hose has a tendency to crack in the bottom of the pleats where it is not as noticable. Cracks in the intake hose and or the breather hoses will skew things since there will be more air drawn in than the MAF is measuring.

I would have replaced all 3 chains, tensioners, and the guides at the very least when the front was off the engine. Possible the timing cover has an internal oil leak preventing proper oil pressure to the cam phaser, or the filter screens in the cover are clogged. Just spit-balling since online diagnosis is difficult.

Yes and yes. The relays don't require much power to operate. And the led lighting uses even less. If still concerned about adding loads, you can just add a power bus that is turned on by a relay triggered off an ignition circuit.

Nope, nothing special. Whatever you have laying around will work fine.

Should work fine. The ET is the offset in mm. The Nissan wheel has 5mm more offset than the Toyota in those specs. It just means the wheels will be pushed out 5mm, not enough to notice. You will need new lugnuts though. The Toyota lugnuts are the wrong thread pitch for the Nissan lugs. Toyota also uses a shank style nut for their alloy wheels and the Nissan acorn style won't fit properly and give proper clamping force. The proper lugnuts should be easy to get from a local tire shop or auto parts store.

A little silicone sealant will work fine. The gaskets are there simply to prevent intrusion of dust, water, and fumes.

Possible that there is just not enough pressure. Try clamping off the return hose an see if it will start and run. If it does, then it is likely a fuel pressure problem. That could be a failed regulator and or a weak pump. Getting a pressure test will at least narrow down or eliminate that as part of the problem. Diagnosis on cars is simply a process of elimination. Made a lot harder when the bloody thing refuses to act up when they bring them to me. Have 2 that refused to act up for me today.

Try unplugging the switch on the brake master cylinder. If the light turns off, then the switch is stuck. Or you can follow the wire from the park brake switch until you find the short to ground.

Pull the distributor cap and rotor off. Then remove the metal plate on the bottom of the distributor. It is a dust shield to protect the crank sensor. Look under the disc into the bottom of the distributor. If you see what looks like dust in there, the bearings have failed and the distributor needs replacing. It is a problem I have seen in the 3.3 Pathfinders. Don't know why I haven't seen it in the Frontiers and Xterras with the same engine though. If the noid light is showing signals for the injectors, then I doubt there is a problem with them and the fuse and relay for them is ok.

With the Nissan (and many others) the antenna for the key chip is in the ring around the ignition lock. With Nissans, near as I was able to tell, it is very short ranged and the chip needs to be less than a couple of inches from the antenna for it to read.

You need 3 things for the engine to run, fuel/air, spark, and compression. You say you have fuel and spark, does the engine crank normally it does it seem to spin easier than normal? Are the fuel injectors firing? Is the spark firing at the right time? Can you smell fuel? It is harder to flood our fuel injected engines than the carbureted ones that the old guys wearing their rose colored glasses say are so wonderful, but can and does still happen. If you are flooded, holding the throttle to the floor while cranking the engine puts the ECU into flood clearing mode where it will shut off the injectors until you release the throttle. Finally, check all your fuses, you might have one that popped preventing something that is needed from working.

As an auto mechanic, I remove a lot of wheel locks. I have a wheel lock remover kit that works like the 12 point socket, but doesn't scratch the socket. The method I use to get the nut out is to use a deep socket that is just a bit larger than the nut and use that as my anvil. The nut will fit into the socket and the removal socket will be supported by the rim of the deep socket. Then I use the hammer and punch to knock the nut out of the remover socket. Couple years ago, Chrysler Corp found a way to defeat the easy wheel lock removal without a key by putting a hardened ring around the outside of the nut that free spins. With that style, if you don't have a key, best bet is to weld a nut on or break out the drill.