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Mr_Reverse

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Everything posted by Mr_Reverse

  1. Yep, I am the one that posted the starter mod. Did that back when AC was Nissan only and had an active discussion forum. Still have the diagram I drew up stashed away in a dusty corner of my hard drive. I much less savvy these days and a hard time figuring out how to do pictures, but can email. Basically what I did with my Pathfinder was seperate the connector I mentioned before. I then used a standard Bosch style 30 amp relay. The harness side black/violet wire went to terminal 85 on the relay. Ran a wire from terminal 86 to ground(the coil is non polarized so can be reversed, works the same). Ran a 12 gauge wire from the positive terminal of the battery to terminal 30 on the relay. Finally, the black/violet wire going to the starter was attached to terminal 87. The relay will reliably operate down to 6 volts, so it covered the problem that was in my ignition switch. When the relay triggered, it fed full battery power through the very short circuit between the battery and starter. I still have a relay in there to run the starter but these days it is fired by the keyless ignition I installed.
  2. My problem with the poly bushings might just be a combination of my crappy luck and the environment I live in. Seems what happens to them with me, is dirt and sand gets between the bushing and the inner sleeve, then starts grinding away on the bushing. After about a year the sleeve is flopping around in the bushing. Didn't seem to matter if I installed them dry(squeeked horribly), used paste lube, or dry lube. They just wore out around the sleeve. The environment here is pretty dry, so plenty of dry dirt willing to act like sandpaper.
  3. Don't see why not. Only differences I can think of is the ABS and that is no problem
  4. I am different. The only poly bushings I used was the UCA bushings, but I got tired of getting less than 10k miles out of them before they were worn out enough to clunk. After the 3rd set, put in the extra effort and run the rubber. Those give me much better life. That said, still have the original front lower control arm bushings. Oddly they don't seem to have worn out on my truck. Every other bushings have been replaced a few times. Just remember to mark your torsion bars so they go back in the way they are now. Installing them backwards and or on the wrong sides can lead to breakage. I suggest getting replacement bolts for the LCA before you start, odds are they will not come out clean.
  5. 230000 miles on the original U-joints in my 93. More than a few of them off pavement in Utahs forgiving climate. No problems with them, so no plans to replace. Plenty of other things to work on if I can find the interest. Working on automobiles 50+ hours per week, I don't have much interest in working on mine.
  6. Had carbs in the past, yes I am old. I refuse to go back to them. Partly because of where I live, get temp swings of 40°f in a day, can change elevation by over 5k feet in 30 miles and do regularly. I like the better fuel economy, better power/response that fuel injection offers and know that it will start when I need it to. Honestly with a VG, a carb will not give any benefit. If you do switch over to a carb, you will also have to find a distributor to go with it. The one in there is run by the ECU and it will get mad when it can't control the fuel. You think you are having issues now, you will find a carburetor conversion to be more expensive and difficult than just fixing the existing system.
  7. I suggest pulling the distributor cap and rotor. Then inspect the cap and rotor for damage. I also suggest removing the dust plate in the bottom of the distributor under the rotor. Look for red or silver dust under the sensor plate. That dust will indicate the bearings in the distributor are failing/failed. Very common problem I have seen here in my area with the VG33 in the R50 Pathfinder. Don't know why I don't see it in the Frontier and Xterra, but seen it a lot in the Pathfinder.
  8. The info doesn't go to the dealer, it goes to a part of Nissan Corporate. The info that the system requires to release the code is the VIN, the ID code in the BCM for the immobilizer, the person doing the key program, and the identification code assigned to the locksmith or dealership. That is the basics that I remember anyway. The dealership doesn't know or need to know about that, it is information that was put in a different browser than the Consult software. When you got the release code assigned to that particular BCM, you put it in using Consult to put the immobilizer into learn mode. As I said before, it is much harder to bypass the immobilizer than hollywierd makes it. If I was interested in stealing cars, I would use a rollback tow truck. Much faster, easier, and less destructive to take a car that way and if anyone saw it, they would just assume it is a legal tow or repo.
  9. From what I have gone through and seen, I am going to recommend a NEW ignition switch. It is cheap and easy to replace. If you have an auto trans, next to the battery, you will find a grey oval connector with 2 wires. One wire will be yellow with a blue stripe and quite thin. The other wire will be heavy and black with a violet stripe. If you seperate that connector and use a volt meter with the positive probe on the black wire on the harness plug and the negative probe on the negative battery post, have somebody turn the ignition to start. You should have battery voltage. You will probably have 9v or less. That circuit is quite long and goes through a few switches and relays, but still shouldn't be more than 1v drop. If you have a manual transmission, you will find a large(double sized) relay next to the transmission. Same thing there though. Unplug the relay and check the voltage on the thick black/violet wire. It is very common for older Nissans to have the starter contact in the ignition switch to fail after 10-20 years. Had that happen with all my old Datsuns from the late 70s and 80s. I made the discovery that the switch was failing in my 93 last year when I pulled it for my keyless ignition system installation.
  10. The Toyota method is what I used on my friends 95 Pathfinder while camping in Moab. It can work, but it is miserable and if any access to a press is possible, that is a much easier and less painful way to go. With the ABS tone ring, it gets more difficult since you don't want to hurt it. I did a few rear axle bearings on later Fronter/Xterras that have the small lug pattern. Even with the special tools at the dealership, it was a destructive process. With those, the bearing retainer has to be broken to remove. The process was to drill a hole in the retainer ring then use a hammer and chisel to crack it where the hole was. We found it easier to use a die-grinder with a small cut-off wheel to cut most of the way through the retainer then get violent with the hammer and chisel. With those, a press was the only way it was going back together with new parts. The one we had had a pressure gauge and it would usually run between 13-17k psi to seat the retainer. Good times, glad I haven't had to deal with them at my current job. The evil first gen IRS Explorer rear wheel bearings are bad enough. We will just say that it got a new hub to go with the new bearing and it can't be tight if it is liquid.
  11. The couple times I had the 605 code, it took a new ECU to fix it. Unlike Mopar, Nissan systems don't get mad and ignore a module with the wrong VIN in it, so changing the VIN is just to make life easier for the guy doing emissions tests.
  12. The braided I got for mine helped. They are longer so don't act like limiting straps for me. Also DOT cerified, so have the braid covered to prevent problems with dirt abrasions outside diameter is smaller so if you have clearance concerns, a plus there. Over all, not a noticable difference in normal driving, but did notice a slight difference in pedal height and firmness under hard braking. For the record, I have managed to lock up the 33x12.50's on my Pathfinder a few times. Not easy or fun, but a bit comforting to know that the brakes can apply that kind of pressure. I am running ceramic pads and slotted/drilled rotors. I opted for rotors that are designed for it rather than the regular ones that got machined. The construction is a little different and have been working great for me. But what works for me, is often different than what works for others. The stock 3.3 from an Xterra shifts my truck along fine. Have no problems keeping up with traffic or reaching freeway speeds on the on ramps, but hear all the time how under powered they are. Last winter got a F350 sunk to the axles in the snow out and rolling, though I think the kenetic rope was a factor as well.
  13. You could get creative and make that space into another storage box and/or just put a Dashmat over it.
  14. Around here salvage yards won't sell airbags either since the Takita recalls. It is a violation of Utah law apparently. The covers are an integral part of the airbag, so not replaceable seperately.
  15. The Duratracs are a good general purpose tire. The state Fish and Game here in the northern part of the state are running them on their trucks. My 2004 Sorento had Firestone Destination LE when I inherited it from my sister. When my mom bought it new it had Michelin tires that even she hated. We put the Destination LE on because it stayed on the pavement most of the time with just some dirt roads when my mom went camping. I ran them until they wore out(my sister had replaced them once or twice while she had the truck) and then I put a set of Bridgestone Dueler Revos on because it saw more off pavement use with me. They worked great for me, but they did get slippery when they got down to 4/32" and my daughter put a set of Ironman ATs on. She seems happy with them (I lost the Sorento to her a bit over a year ago, my Pathfinder is not happy being a DD again and living on the pavement again). Many years ago, I had BFG AT on my truck, the first gen and I found them a bit disappointing. They worked ok, but not great for me. I have always paid the extra for LTs on the SUVs I have had because I like having the stronger tire on my trucks because I do go off pavement. I have also stuck with the load range C, (10 ply) because I felt the heavier D and E are too stiff and heavy for good performance in my applications.
  16. Been running a K&N in mine for 21 years. Still have the same MAF sensor it had when I bought my truck Feb 99. If the filter is oiled properly, there is no problems. One of those situations of less is more. When the filter is over oiled like many people do is when you get problems of oil on the MAF sensor. Actually on my second K&N. The first one died a terrible death protecting my engine when the mud hole got too deep and the airbox filled with mud. Clogged the filter and the suction unfolded and mangled the mesh.
  17. Yep, did the install in the middle of the night. Both my friend and I were scrambling to get ready for a week in Moab so swapped the center sections of our Pathfinders after work the night before we left for a week of 'wheelin and camping. Only took us about 4 hours to swap centers, install the LockRight, and some other last minute work on our trucks. It really is a simple project and doesn't even need to adjust the gear mesh since you don't touch the gears.
  18. The locker will only lock while under load. If you maintain or let off the throttle, or push in the clutch, it unloads and allows the wheels to have different speeds. It basically acts like a ratchet and will let the outside wheel speed up in turns so you are not fighting the turn. Hit the throttle in the turn, and it loads up and locks the axle so the inner tire is forced to try and turn faster than it normally would. One of w things will happen, either the grip will be high enough that the truck will plow straight in a turn, or the inside tire will break traction and either make a lot of chirping/squalling, and or snap the back end out when the outside tire breaks free as well. One reason I disliked daily driving my truck on snowy city roads. Other reason was I just knew some idiot without insurance would hit me. With a manual transmission, you will find the LockRight pretty easy to live with in all reality. Just a bit of a learning process, then you won't really think of it, but will love the extra traction until you find that a locker like 4wd is great at getting stuck deeper. But then again, getting stuck is part of the fun. At least for me it is, it adds interest and knowledge. We tend to learn more from our mistakes than when coasting after all.
  19. Hmm, don't know with that one. I went the simple and cheap route of buying a LockRight for the open H233B and traded center sections with a friend that had an open but wanted my LSD. Both WD21s had autos and 4wd, so didn't have to mess with the gears. There was a bit of a learning experience with the autolocker, but my LSD was a good one with a higher break away torque, so not too bad. It is funny watching the expression on friends faces when in a parking lot and I power brake with the front wheels turned and they see the truck go straight pushing the front tires sideways.
  20. Easiest way to go to disc brakes in my opinion is to just swap the whole axle assembly. My local salvage yards sell complete axle assemblies for about $75, so just makes sense to me. Also need the master cylinder and park brake cables, but for less than $200, a simple and inexpensive way to upgrade the brakes.
  21. Oh, I think the Firestone has the thickest tread also. I think mine were 24/32" new. Not sure with the Wildpeaks, but my Destinations are pretty light weight. My 33x12.50 15's mounted on a set of Ultra aluminum wheels actually weigh a bit less than the 31x10.50 15 BFG AT I had on my stock aluminum wheels back when my truck was new to me. People around here don't seem to be too happy with the current version of the BFG. A lot of them have really liked the Goodyear Dura Trac. Apparently they are really good in snow and rocks.
  22. No idea. Mine didn't have it. I suspect that it might prevent proper assembly since the axle shaft is different between the disc and drum brake H233B.
  23. Lol, yep, that little block floating in there keeps the axles pressed into the bearings. The rear disc H233B uses a double bearing setup so doesn't have the spacer. As my buddy and I discovered, very important in the drum brake axle. And as far as weight of the T-case, it is heavier than the auto trans my truck has. Tough though, only parts I haven't messed with in the 21 years with my Pathfinder is the front diff and t-case.
  24. My favorite has been the Firestone Destination MT. The MT designation is for Maximum Traction rather than the Mud Terrain, and they live up to their name. Started with the first gen back in 07, and was amazed at the grip they give in everything including snow. Last year, replaced them with the second generation (the current one) and found them to be even better. 13 years, and never had a flat, and survived several Moab trips. Have to figure out a new photo host and how to do all this photo stuff. Used to use Photobucket, but they decided ads didn't bring in enough. Oddly I can still see the pics with my computer, but can't make it work with my phone. In this photo on Kane Creek, I was running a bit high, I had about 13 psi. Those were the first gen. I spent last winter romping around in the snow up in the mountains mostly in 2wd till I needed more. Got bogged down once pulling a F350 out up there, but once the rope was unhooked, was able to climb back out of the hole. Reattached and managed to get the Ford out, kinetic rope is fantastic. The tires have held up great on the pavement with my locker and loaded truck.

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