Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Was once the family daily driver. Has been sitting for potentially 10 years. Looking to have her up and running for summer 2017.
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

1,332 profile views

awyisss's Achievements

NPORA Newbie

NPORA Newbie (1/5)



  1. Thanks for your input guys, I think i'll be ordering just the UCAs, and the low pro bump stops. I'll do the bushings in the LCA in the future if i decide to put SAW TB's in or when they are toast, whichever comes first. They seem fine at the moment. RP88, I called SL and they unfortunately don't sell the kits or parts anymore, guy i talked to said they have been discontinued for about 2 years now. I spoke with two different people at Rough Country; first guy told me that they won't sell the arms outside of the kit ($360 for the kit), the second guy i spoke with said they would remove the arms from a kit for $330. Looks like i may have to bite this $300 bullet, unless you have other suggestions. I appreciate the heads up on the price, i'd have no clue otherwise.
  2. Hey everyone, I have my front suspension, for the most part, disassembled as I have been replacing much of the components (upper/low BJs, Inner/outer TREs, strut rod bushings, front shocks, sway bar end links, sway bar frame bushings) that were original parts from 1990. Before i took apart the front I had put in JGC coils in the rear and cranked the T-bars so it wouldn't be so raked in the back. I have ordered a grassroots centerlink that will be arriving some time next week at which i had planned on installing and buttoning up everything so i can have the truck back on the road for the upcoming trout fishin/camping season. Howevever, I recently had some family things come up and I wont have time to work on the truck for the next couple of weeks. That said, i'd like to order in the rest of the things that i had planned on replacing "next time i rebuild the front end" and doing that work this time around and being done with the front end. The parts i am planning to order are SL upper control arms, idler arm brace, low profile bump stops, and energy suspensions UCA + LCA bushings. I had some questions about these parts that i'm hoping you guys may be able to provide some input on before I continue with ordering from 4x4parts. For the SL upper control arms, 4x4parts mentions in their description that these require larger aftermarket wheels. My future plans with the truck were to put 33x10.5s on the lego wheels after doing a 3" body lift at some point. Will this upper control arm let me continue to use my lego wheels? I personally love the look of those legos... For the low profile bump stops, I noticed these are sold in pairs. Is the pair for one side of the car? ie. replaces the bump stops attached to the bottom side of the UCA as well as the bump stop on the frame? Or is the pair intended to be one per side of the car, replacing the just bump stop attached to the frame on the driver and passenger side? Lastly, for the energy suspension bushings, should i replace the UCA bushings that come with the SL control arms with these? (if i decide to go with those arms) Also, what is the best procedure for removing the LCA so I can replace that bushing? My concern is that I will need to relieve tension or perhaps remove the T-bars to do this, which i have not done before so just want to make sure i'm doing this safely. I am open to any suggestions you guys may have on my plans. Thanks in advance to anyone with input.
  3. Perfect, that's exactly the information i was looking for. Thanks guys!
  4. Hi all, just installed jcg coils and turned up the t bars slightly and am looking to get new shocks all around to take advantage of the lift. I've found some rancho shocks on 4x4parts i'm interested in but would like to buy them locally or on amazon/rockauto to save on shipping cost. I know they are the rs5000 and rs9000 series, but when I look those up they have other submodels. for example, the rs999166 or rs5255. Wondering if anyone might know which specific models will work on our vehicles. For reference, these are the ones i've been looking at from 4x4parts rs5000 http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981597-rancho-rs5000-front-shock.html http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981598-rancho-rs5000-rear-shock.html rs9000xl http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981652-rancho-rs9000xl-rear-shock.html http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981651-rancho-rs9000xl-front-shock.html
  5. Hey guys so I think I have two injectors that are not working, #1 and #2. I pulled each spark plug wire while the engine was running and #1 and #2 had made no change in RPM. The spark plugs i had put in the day before, and the plug wires are working because i could see spark when putting the ends up to a set of pliers. I pulled the spark plugs from those two cylinders, and they seem dry and did not smell of gasoline at all, which leads me to believe its an injector issue. So far i've pulled #1 injector and checked the resistance, it says OL which leads me to believe there's no continuity within the coils of the solenoid. I'll be pulling #2 tomorrow. I noticed there's a blue dot on the injector #1, and when looking up replacements on RockAuto, some do not mention the color of the dot, one says blue or black, and two other ones are specifically blue or black dot. If #2 also needs replacing, i plan to purchase the beck/arnley injectors that specifies that it can be used for blue or black dot (unless my local parts store has them cheaper, i doubt it but i'll call tomorrow). I was wondering if any of you may have purchased these before, and what is the difference? Also, if the resistance of injector #2 is okay (between 10 and 14 ohms from what i've gathered), is there a way to test whether or not I have a problem with the harness? If so I should probably test the #1 harness as well. Believe it or not, i thought the car was running decent on 4 cylinders since from what i've read on here, these cars are not too quick hahaha can't wait to see how it feels running on all 6!
  6. thanks for the tips guys, i'll be looking to get one from a wrecker or someone parting out a vehicle. probably replace the gas tank at some point too. my local dealership wanted $400 to order the sending unit! if i buy online i'm looking at around $350 after shipping/currency exchange. didn't think the sending unit would be such a costly part.
  7. UPDATE: Tried to start the car today. Stuck a hose and siphon pump into the gas tank...nothing came out. Uh-oh. Filled 20L of gas, topped up the rad with water, pulled the ignition coil plug and fuel pump relay then cranked it a bunch to get some oil on the cylder walls. Starter sounded great. reattached the ignition coil plug and fuel pump relay then debated whether i should run out and get a new fuel filter before starting....i opted out on the extra errand lol. went to start the car...doesnt turn over. ok maybe i didnt get that relay back in all the way. i get a friend to turn the key while my finger is on the relay, i can hear and feel the contact close. so now im wondering if the engine is getting fuel.. so i pull the hose on the top of the fuel filter and turn the key... nothing coming out the filter. ok so maybe the filters clogged so i pull the filter off the hose, and a little bit of fuel dribbles down from the filter and a bit from the hose. thought i figured it out at this point just need a new filter, but then i turned the key, and no fuel comes out the hose. Another uh-oh. lets take a look at the fuel pump. once i get the carpet in the trunk pulled back, pull off the gas tank cover and what do i see...fuel sender cover was rusted as hell. started taking off the hoses, and the one on the right, i think thats the one that sends fuel, just broke off with the metal tube rusted to the inside of the hose. fuel started coming down from that hose, seemed to stop once i pulled off the gas tank fill cover, definitely relieved some pressure. I continued to get the fuel pump out of the tank, and the whole sender unit/pump was covered in rust. ill be posting pictures of that and the broken fitting. i guess i'll be getting a new sending unit/pump. couldnt find a sender unit online (rockauto or ebay), just pumps. anyone know somewhere i can get one for a reasonable price? also, do you know what size fuel lines i'll need?
  8. alright lots of info to absorb here. thx for all of it, i don't feel like i'll damage anything by removing the cams if i take my time and have the right tools for the job. i'll probably use a strap wrench and something going through the cam sprocket holes to keep the sprocket still while i remove the bolts. a friend says he has a crank pulley/balancer removal tool I could use, hopefully that works out. I ordered a gates timing belt + tensioner + waterpump kit and a thermostat from rockauto, should be here in less than 2 weeks. Seals are cheap enough to buy locally. if i have enough time this weekend i'll probably get the old gas out of the gas tank/fuel lines and crank it a bunch to get oil on to the cylinder walls as suggested by adam, then see if it'll fire up.
  9. Thank you, hopefully I wont damage the crank pulley. When you say 'as long as none of your pistons are at the top of the stroke' im a bit confused as to what that means. When I orient the dimples on the pulleys with the marks on the cover, and ensure that the distributor is pointing at cyl 1, doenst that mean that the #1 piston is at the top of the stroke? I'm concerned that I might rotate the cam pulleys a bit while removing them. Maybe this is much simpler than I think though. Its my first time.
  10. Thank you, I have not checked Rockauto. I will cross reference with them aswell.
  11. Also, I know people suggested a whole bunch of other things to do (spark plugs, wires, trans cooler, grounds, cleaning throttle body, etc), and i'll be getting to as much of that stuff as i can as well, but for the next bit i just wanna focus on getting the old gas out and getting the tbelt/cooling stuff in order.
  12. It's been a while, but better late than never. So after chipping away cleaning the vehicle here and there in my spare time and waiting out the weather, its time for the fun stuff. I changed the oil yesterday and ordered a hand pump to get the old gas out of the tank. I was about to drain and refill the rad but i figured since i'm gonna change the t belt and waterpump anyway, it should wait til I have the parts in hand. A few questions before I wreck something. I was thinking about pumping the fuel out + replacing with fresh, topping up the rad, throw in a battery and fire it up just to see if the car will start. I don't plan on driving, or even revving it, it until all the fluids, tbelt, waterpump, and thermostat, are replaced. I just want to know if it'll fire up, or if there will be other things ill need to replace to get it running. Like the horribly placed starter motor that I likely dripped some oil on when changing the oil filter. Is this a bad idea? Should i just go ahead and replace the tbelt + waterpump + thermostat before starting it? Also, i'm planning to get a cheap tbelt +tensioner + waterpump + cam/crank seals from ebay, a kit made by DNJ. The seller has good ratings, and from what i can gather online about DNJ, the belt should be of comparable OEM specs. Before i place the order, have any of you guys used a DNJ kit? Also, i'm not sure if the belt has timing marks, is that a problem? I also seen a Gates kit, but its ~30$ more and doesn't come with cam/crank seals. I may be pursuaded to purchase this kit if any of you guys have horror stories with DNJ. Also, i'm a bit worried about taking off the cam and crank sprockets to replace the seals. I know i'll have to pull them off after I orient everything to TDC and get the belt off, but how exactly do i stop them from rotating when taking them off/putting them on? Will I need some type of puller? I have access to impact tools if that will make anything easier. Any advice is welcome!
  13. Thanks for the replies guys looks like i'll have quite a bit of work to do before I get the wheels turning. I must say, for someone that hasn't done a ton of work on cars some of the measures mentioned sound a bit overwhelming. Luckily i'm in no rush to get the car running so I can take my time and make sure i'm getting everything done correctly. My first task as soon as the weather clears up will be to clean up the engine bay and the interior of the car, for safety after i get the car running and just to make it a bit more of a pleasure to work on. The car was stored in horrendous condition. It was next to a tree that had a grape vine also growing on it that somehow grew over to the car and partially made its home in the engine bay. Some of the vines were seen growing through the air vents! A bit of mold on the passenger seat/dash panel area aswell from what i remember. Hope to get some pics up sooner than later.

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...