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msavides last won the day on February 24

msavides had the most liked content!

About msavides

  • Birthday 10/14/1972

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1991 Nissan pathfinder MT 4X4
  • Place of Residence
    White City, Or
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    White City, Or
  • Country
    United States

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  1. about 4 years ago I was in search for the elusive parking brake cable for my 1991 SE with disc brakes in the rear. I searched for months. I ended up finding a brand new one from https://www.euro4x4parts.com/en paid a bit for shipping but it was a perfect fit. At the time Total was $73.86 Part number Quantity Description BCA2499 1 Parking brake - cable part # qty description price BCA2499-1315 1 Parking brake - cable 29.17 EUR Express delivery 34.00 EUR ----------------------------------------------------------------- total 63.17 EUR
  2. I too have had mixed results with aftermarket Half shafts. I had ripped boots and bought some half shafts off of Rock auto. I noticed with my front torsions cranked up that they were binging after install. I lowered them and got realigned and ran them for about 6 months and then cranked them back up and there was no binding anymore. I did end up grenading one of the half shafts about 3 month later 4 wheeling it hard. I put the original stock one back in after I replaced the boots and repacked them. No issues. word of advice Keep the stock ones if you are lifted in the front. They have much better angles than the aftermarket ones.
  3. keep in mind that the oil fill port is too low on these transmissions. filling just to the fill port is not enough and eventually will cause the symptoms you had with your last transmission.. the output shaft does not get properly lubricated with it filled too low.
  4. We just had a new windshield put in about a month ago. they replaced the rubber seal with a new one. probably not stock nissan but there is hope for a replacement option for you. It looks good and I was surprised that they had the windshield and seal in stock after just calling them a day in advance.
  5. 1. corrosion - the line runs right next to the battery. 2. In my case it was light front end damage plus some corrosion, the grill pushed into the receiver/dryer and it pushed back enough to bend the line, also took out the passenger head light. the corrosion kept me from being able to braze the crack shut, all i managed to do was erode the aluminum even more. after messing with it for half the day, I gave up. I cut it because I was going to use a splice kit, I am glad I didn't case the splice kit would have costed about the same as the entire new line and I may still have had some cracks in the aluminum line. and the line was not entirely round so I was not sure the splice fitting would seal around a out of round line.
  6. took line to a local Auto repair shop. they made me one on the spot. charged me $59. took it home hooked it up and put the vacuum on the system. been holding at -25 for about 2 hours. I think I am good to put the freon in now.
  7. I have been trying to find the Air conditioning line that goes from the heater box to the Receiver/Dryer. I have not been able to find a trace of it anywhere on the webs I am coming to the conclusion that I am going to have to have one custom built. If I do I want it made out of rubber A/C hose. I believe they call this a liquid line. I have found a few places that will custom build one online, however I am having a hard time identifying the type and size of the connectors on the ends. I believe they call it a swivel type end and it is female. It has a spot on it to put an o-ring on it. I am not sure it there are standard threads for A/c or it they have metric or Standard threads. I can post some pictures of the ends. From my testing I know that both ends are the same Female swivel, but not sure on the size or thread. I have tried looking up the receiver/dryer specs to try and get some clues on the size and thread, but not having much luck. My other thought was to take the line into a automotive shop that works on A/C lines to see if they can make me one, Just not sure if there are any placed around here that do that kind of work. Any input or similar experiences would be extreamly helpful. Thanks
  8. New part needed. Air conditioning line that runs from the expansion valve to the receiver/dryer. mine has a hole in it right at the bend before it goes into the receiver dryer. edit- went to a local Auto repair shop and had them make me a custom line. $59 I think I am better off with the rubber line, these aluminum lines are really fragile at this age. mine had a bit of erosion/corrosion on them in spots as well.
  9. Material wise is was really cheap. If I factor in my hourly wage for the time I spent on it. Then I paid way too much for it. But If I bought the factory one at $120 I still would have got fake leather. I am debating on whether to make another one with my left over leather once I get the sewing machine fixed.
  10. I went to the leather shop and bought some scrap finished leather. Grand Total $6.99 I ripped the seams on the old boot and made a template and cut all the pieces out of the new leather (I used about half the leather I bought) I dug out the sewing machine. I had some issues with it since it had not been used in years. (time to have it serviced I guess) I ended up having to sew most of it by hand. I am not that great at hand sewing, but I figured that even with some messed up stitches it has to look better than the ripped up one that was on there. Here is the almost finished project. Just have to get some new snaps and put them on the boot and insert the metal rod and sew it up Not too bad. I may redo my stitches once I get the sewing machine serviced. The stitches I made with the sewing machine are prefect.
  11. I coming to that realization that the part I need will be hard to find. I want to keep my Pathfinder for as long as I can So I posed this question to give me insight to what parts are the hardest to come by. so I can keep an eye out for them, Knowing that I will probably eventually need them . I am also thinking of creating another Thread with Requesting substitutions that people have used instead of overpriced or rare parts. I bought a rubber boot for a jeep that I used for the the 4x4 shifter ( the one that goes under the leather boot) It fit pretty good after I glued the metal trim onto the boot. I bolted in on just like the original one. If you get a chance post up a pic of the boot. I have not heard back from Adam. He is probably busy. If something does not come up I am probably going to pick up some scrap leather and sew one up myself. The one I have is in pretty bad shape, But I have managed to rip the seams and get it to the point where I can us it at a pattern. The local leather shop has scrap leather for $5 a pound that I can pick through to find pieces that are the right size and shape.
  12. I believe you can use the adhesive That they use to glue the rear view mirror wedged on glass. they sell it at any auto parts store. I had to buy the little piece that the sunshade rests on. (it actually screws on) Was able to find one from a Nissan dealer for 7 bucks
  13. when it was sold to me they said the stereo did not work. it was obvious why, the foam filled in just about every vent in the stereo, I am sure it overheated. went straight into the trash
  14. I found the sunroof seal for the rubber trim on Ebay. they want like $80 ish for it. then I believe it is recommended to have a glass shop adhere it to the glass so it sits correctly. It is on my list to but have more important things to spend $ on first. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Nissan-Glass-Panel-Spacer-73872-01M05/263726281345?epid=1722113266&hash=item3d674fb281:g:-poAAOSwyHJcd1pD
  15. I agree, I recommend crimestopper sp-502 if you want remote start ($99). sp-302 if you do not have remote start. ($79) even if you have the door lock actuator problem (key does not lock all the doors) this will make it so you don't need it. as long as your switch on the door panel works it will lock and unlock you doors. The latest model will automatically unlock your doors if you have the key in the ignition to avoid locking your keys in the vehicle with the remote. I have them in all of my vehicles

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