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msavides

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Everything posted by msavides

  1. about 4 years ago I was in search for the elusive parking brake cable for my 1991 SE with disc brakes in the rear. I searched for months. I ended up finding a brand new one from https://www.euro4x4parts.com/en paid a bit for shipping but it was a perfect fit. At the time Total was $73.86 Part number Quantity Description BCA2499 1 Parking brake - cable part # qty description price BCA2499-1315 1 Parking brake - cable 29.17 EUR Express delivery 34.00 EUR ----------------------------------------------------------------- total 63.17 EUR
  2. I too have had mixed results with aftermarket Half shafts. I had ripped boots and bought some half shafts off of Rock auto. I noticed with my front torsions cranked up that they were binging after install. I lowered them and got realigned and ran them for about 6 months and then cranked them back up and there was no binding anymore. I did end up grenading one of the half shafts about 3 month later 4 wheeling it hard. I put the original stock one back in after I replaced the boots and repacked them. No issues. word of advice Keep the stock ones if you are lifted in the front. They have much better angles than the aftermarket ones.
  3. keep in mind that the oil fill port is too low on these transmissions. filling just to the fill port is not enough and eventually will cause the symptoms you had with your last transmission.. the output shaft does not get properly lubricated with it filled too low.
  4. We just had a new windshield put in about a month ago. they replaced the rubber seal with a new one. probably not stock nissan but there is hope for a replacement option for you. It looks good and I was surprised that they had the windshield and seal in stock after just calling them a day in advance.
  5. 1. corrosion - the line runs right next to the battery. 2. In my case it was light front end damage plus some corrosion, the grill pushed into the receiver/dryer and it pushed back enough to bend the line, also took out the passenger head light. the corrosion kept me from being able to braze the crack shut, all i managed to do was erode the aluminum even more. after messing with it for half the day, I gave up. I cut it because I was going to use a splice kit, I am glad I didn't case the splice kit would have costed about the same as the entire new line and I may still have had some cracks in the aluminum line. and the line was not entirely round so I was not sure the splice fitting would seal around a out of round line.
  6. took line to a local Auto repair shop. they made me one on the spot. charged me $59. took it home hooked it up and put the vacuum on the system. been holding at -25 for about 2 hours. I think I am good to put the freon in now.
  7. I have been trying to find the Air conditioning line that goes from the heater box to the Receiver/Dryer. I have not been able to find a trace of it anywhere on the webs I am coming to the conclusion that I am going to have to have one custom built. If I do I want it made out of rubber A/C hose. I believe they call this a liquid line. I have found a few places that will custom build one online, however I am having a hard time identifying the type and size of the connectors on the ends. I believe they call it a swivel type end and it is female. It has a spot on it to put an o-ring on it. I am not sure it there are standard threads for A/c or it they have metric or Standard threads. I can post some pictures of the ends. From my testing I know that both ends are the same Female swivel, but not sure on the size or thread. I have tried looking up the receiver/dryer specs to try and get some clues on the size and thread, but not having much luck. My other thought was to take the line into a automotive shop that works on A/C lines to see if they can make me one, Just not sure if there are any placed around here that do that kind of work. Any input or similar experiences would be extreamly helpful. Thanks
  8. New part needed. Air conditioning line that runs from the expansion valve to the receiver/dryer. mine has a hole in it right at the bend before it goes into the receiver dryer. edit- went to a local Auto repair shop and had them make me a custom line. $59 I think I am better off with the rubber line, these aluminum lines are really fragile at this age. mine had a bit of erosion/corrosion on them in spots as well.
  9. Material wise is was really cheap. If I factor in my hourly wage for the time I spent on it. Then I paid way too much for it. But If I bought the factory one at $120 I still would have got fake leather. I am debating on whether to make another one with my left over leather once I get the sewing machine fixed.
  10. I went to the leather shop and bought some scrap finished leather. Grand Total $6.99 I ripped the seams on the old boot and made a template and cut all the pieces out of the new leather (I used about half the leather I bought) I dug out the sewing machine. I had some issues with it since it had not been used in years. (time to have it serviced I guess) I ended up having to sew most of it by hand. I am not that great at hand sewing, but I figured that even with some messed up stitches it has to look better than the ripped up one that was on there. Here is the almost finished project. Just have to get some new snaps and put them on the boot and insert the metal rod and sew it up Not too bad. I may redo my stitches once I get the sewing machine serviced. The stitches I made with the sewing machine are prefect.
  11. I coming to that realization that the part I need will be hard to find. I want to keep my Pathfinder for as long as I can So I posed this question to give me insight to what parts are the hardest to come by. so I can keep an eye out for them, Knowing that I will probably eventually need them . I am also thinking of creating another Thread with Requesting substitutions that people have used instead of overpriced or rare parts. I bought a rubber boot for a jeep that I used for the the 4x4 shifter ( the one that goes under the leather boot) It fit pretty good after I glued the metal trim onto the boot. I bolted in on just like the original one. If you get a chance post up a pic of the boot. I have not heard back from Adam. He is probably busy. If something does not come up I am probably going to pick up some scrap leather and sew one up myself. The one I have is in pretty bad shape, But I have managed to rip the seams and get it to the point where I can us it at a pattern. The local leather shop has scrap leather for $5 a pound that I can pick through to find pieces that are the right size and shape.
  12. I believe you can use the adhesive That they use to glue the rear view mirror wedged on glass. they sell it at any auto parts store. I had to buy the little piece that the sunshade rests on. (it actually screws on) Was able to find one from a Nissan dealer for 7 bucks
  13. when it was sold to me they said the stereo did not work. it was obvious why, the foam filled in just about every vent in the stereo, I am sure it overheated. went straight into the trash
  14. I found the sunroof seal for the rubber trim on Ebay. they want like $80 ish for it. then I believe it is recommended to have a glass shop adhere it to the glass so it sits correctly. It is on my list to but have more important things to spend $ on first. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Nissan-Glass-Panel-Spacer-73872-01M05/263726281345?epid=1722113266&hash=item3d674fb281:g:-poAAOSwyHJcd1pD
  15. I agree, I recommend crimestopper sp-502 if you want remote start ($99). sp-302 if you do not have remote start. ($79) even if you have the door lock actuator problem (key does not lock all the doors) this will make it so you don't need it. as long as your switch on the door panel works it will lock and unlock you doors. The latest model will automatically unlock your doors if you have the key in the ignition to avoid locking your keys in the vehicle with the remote. I have them in all of my vehicles
  16. the new parking brake cable ended up costing about $80. it was 35 euros and 35 euros shipping. still a pretty good deal for a brand new cable.
  17. yes that is the part I am looking for if you have time can you send me a pic of it. showing any wear or imperfections. and how much you want for it? thanks
  18. Just rebuilding a 1994 se. Have been trying to find some parts. Some of them are getting really hard to find. What part was the most difficult for you to find.? The parts I have had the hardest time finding are. Drivers side parking brake cable. (1994 Rear disc Brakes) ( found it new from France) Abs Pump ( had to tell the wrecker where to find it) 4WD shifter Boot. ( still looking) Don't want to pay $120.00 for it.
  19. the 1994 I just rebuilt the front end on, was not that bad either, however the upper control arm busshings were completely trashed, the wheel bearings were loose and the center link had quite a bit of play. The tires were about done. I thought maybe that the light pull was just tires, I took it in for an alignment before the new tires. that is when they told me about the bearings and the UCA bushings. I figured since I was into it I would do it all. It was not that bad since most of the items were on clearance at rock auto. sometimes a vehicle will steer fine, all the while are wearing out your tires unevenly. a quick check of your tire wear pattern will tell you that though rotting bushings can make your car go quickly out of alignment at any time though.
  20. here is a new one. the guy used electrical tape to tape the single din car stereo to the pocket,. then since he did not have the bracket to mount it in. He used expanding foam to hold it in. I almost drove the car into a ditch and left it after finding that GEM. Took me almost 4 hours to cleanup that mess
  21. one word. allignment. start with all parts involved with your allignment at the same time. get it alligned and then work on the other stuff. if your tires are good . if your tires are in bad shape then you can do the alignment last. but changing all of your bad parts with good parts can make your allignment worse until you get it done. the parts that can effect your alignment are upper and lower control arm bushings centerlink, inner and outer tie rods, adjusters and idler arm upper and lower ball joints inner and outer wheel bearings. I just went through all of this. edit: btw shocks while they may not affect the alignment can ruin new tires if they are bad. best replace them before new tires, if your tires are good right now you can replace the shocks without needing re-alignment Almost forgot, Torsion bars will also effect your alignment, especially if one of them starts to weaken and cause one side to sag.
  22. Hey you describe the previous owner perfectly, do you know him?
  23. the 3m stuff is really good and does not shrink. it is used for sealing up boats. not all stuff is created equal. I have done the 1994 but not the 1991 yet. the plastic trim on both started to warp out away from the chanel. I used a heat gun to heat it up and shape it back into the channel. Then used the 3m adheasive to fill the gaps. I will snap some pics when I get a Chance. BTW when I got the 1994 the previous owner put about 2 inches of clear silicone all the way around the glass. It looked like crap
  24. how much work is it to swap from a manual setup to the auto setup. my 1991 SE has the auto fan control. the 1994 SE does not. . not sure if it is worth the work
  25. Pulled off the rear hatch panel, the rear wiper wireing was all melted. I had to rebuild the wiring. Then found the cause. The wiper motor was seized. The motor should be fused somewhere but could not find a fuse anywhere. ordered replacement used motor and installed. All is now working great. hopefully it does not happen again.
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