msavides

Do this!.. Or you will be doing the job again if the rear main starts leaking. (I only replaced the round seal not the gaskets) I replaced my clutch. I did not do the rear main seal. less than 15,000 miles later I had a ruined clutch from a leaking rear main seal. I had to do it all over again with another new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. don't forget to replace the pilot bearing and the throw out bearing. those are all cheap parts compared with having to do the labor of pulling the transmission again. I would recommend dropping the transmission. while it can be done just sliding it back, It makes it a lot easier to replace the RMS and Pilot bearing having free access to the back of the engine.

If you ever plan on a body lift. do it before the clutch. it will give you so much more room for almost everything.

Pick up head lights and tail lights are a bit different. Pickup headlights I believe are completely square, whereas pathfinder headlights have a slanted corner in one corner. Tail lights on a pickup If I remember correctly have a different bolt pattern for the mounting holes. may be some other differences as well

I agree with AndyC, stock is the most reliable. The aftermarket New, (rebuilt is a crap shoot) are good for on road. as soon as you go off road that is where the issues lie. The angles on the aftermarket new units are horrible and if you do not wear them in a bit before going to the extreme angles they will snap pretty quickly. I put some New china made half shafts in my 91 and broke them in for about 6 months before wheeling. The first time i did some serious wheeling I snapped one. I had saved and rebuilt (new boots and grease) the stock ones and put them on a shelf. I put my stock one in place of the broken new one and have not had any problems since. Now before anyone says they have great luck with there new china half shafts. Let me just say, I have a front Locker and with it locked it puts a ton more stress on the half shafts. so if you don't plan on a front locker those half shafts might work fine. The point was to make that the stock shafts are superior to the cheap after market.

One thing I would suggest you guys put in your pack. A snake bite kit. It is basically a syringe with different size cups that go on the end. I Wheel in places where there are quite a few venomous snakes. Never know when your going to come across one of them. http://www.rei.com/product/407144/sawyer-extractor-pump-kit Always good to learn how to use this before you have to. You have to act fast for this to be effective.

very often cv boots will rip (if not ripped already) shortly after a suspension lift. as the half shaft angles will change stretching the rubber from the boot differently from the stock position. the boots have been on there a while in the stock position and the rubber can be old and brittle. A lift stretches the old rubber in a new position and will generally tear within a few hundred miles after the lift. so keep an eye on them after the lift especially after a wheeling trip when you are running the suspension in its full range of motion.

I have had heard quite a few people who had done the same thing. They have put some water pump sealant (rtv) on the end of the bolt and the threads. some have gone more than 100,000 miles with this repair. However since you already had the head off you did the right thing, As most of the hard work was already done. This way you know that you will not have any issues.

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Mine sometimes they unlock immediately after locking them. They have only done this immediately after i unlock them, They have yet to do this while driving or while parked. When They do I will have to tear apart the door panels and investigate. for them time being I do of course have to pay attention that they did not unlock after locking them

Have a look at this video and you may be able to see how they work and determine whats wrong. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NK8zcZJif8

ages ago, when I was living in Arizona when Saturn had an issue with the plastic pocket key that would fit every Saturn. There was a rash of Saturn thefts in my complex. After hearing about this, I would reach under the dash and pull the fuel pump relay when I got home every night. It took 2 secs. well sure enough 3 days later I came out to the car and it was moved back in the parking spot a couple of feet. The doors were unlock and most of my stuff was rummaged through. Turns out that that 2 secs paid off big time. They unlocked the door started the engine started to back out and the car ran out of fuel and stopped. That saved my butt big time. i am glad they found it. keep us updated in the condition of the vehicle and the parts that were stolen. we can then keep an eye out on craigslist for your parts and hopefully catch the bastard.

I did this not exactly bit. I bought some new springs from oreilly (at the time they costed me $100) I did not however cut off the pig tails. I used a torch and a cheater bar and bent them out to match the coil.after longer shocks and track bar extension. I ended up with the rear a bit higher than the front. I then re indexed the Tbars to try and match. The front would not stay after about a couple of weeks the front would lower, I kept trying to reindex but it would not stay. I eventually bought some Sway Away Tbars and then it stayed. Then I had to get Upper control arms to correct the angle of the ball joints. then I had the issue with the CV joint angles. I had to lower the front just a bit for the CVs. but in the end it worked. was not too bad under $400 total

when I first got my 2nd Pathfinder did not wheel the first one at all) I took it out wheeling stock. I got stuck a few times (from high centering mostly) just trying to get to a few placed to camp and hang out Up near Long Barn California. I figure a suspension lift wan in order. I got new T-bars and cranked them up and got dome v8 jeep grand cherokee springs in the back. That was all I needed. Bit it was too late I had already caught the upgrade bug. Next thing you know it was 31 Cooper M/T, Arb Bumper, Body lift, Winch, then front and rear arb lockers. I have not got stuck since, Mind you I have not went out looking for trouble, but the truck takes me where I want to go and for the most part is really surprises me where is takes me.

you think he stinks now try tuning on your AC.

Unless they changed this in later models California models had a EGR temp sensor that would detect if exhaust gas is actually recirculating. if the egr valve were stuck in a California model the Check engine light would come on.

here is a set that includes the correct one http://www.harborfre...-kit-95904.html http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lnc5803.html if you google search grease gun needle I am sure you will find some other retailers. I have heard that napa and oreilly have them as well

I was told that to test to see if your glass can be polished it to run your fingernail over it, if you can fell grooves and bumps with your fingernail then it will require some heavy polishing (probably more work than worth it) But if it cant be felt with the fingernail then you can polish it out.

I can't believe that i did this 5 years ago. I have not had a single exhaust leak or problem since. \ I updated the original post to fix some links and add a link to photobucket as snapfish are now forcing a signup to see pictures.

I have found that that plug is a PITA without a body lift. After my 3 inch body lift it becomes A whole lot easier. Medium extension is all that is needed. I can actually reach my hand around between the engine and the firewall and reach the spark plug.

Bar keepers friend works wonders on windshields, I hear. http://www.barkeepersfriend.com/ It is cheap. 1.99 a can

A handheld fisherman's scale works good for weight measurment .

GSP shafts are not much better. I had a similar experience with GSP.Bought New shafts. They broke my first trip out I then just replaced/rebuilt both of my factory half shafts. They were is great condition just the rubber deteriorated, I wish you luck with getting a refund or even getting it replaced. I contacted GSP and got no answer. I contacted Rock Auto and they could not help me as they stopped carrying GSP (Wonder WHY?) Here is a link to my thread ( Thread says warn hubs broke, but it turns out the warn hub was busted by the broken half shaft.) http://www.nissanpat...-hubs-wheeling/ (see photo) http://imageshack.us...8/1001103w.jpg/

don't even think about drilling through the frame I spent over 35 mins trying to drill just one hole. I gave up and welded on my rock rails.

Damn that sucks. I stop and think about all the times I took my shifter off and I never gave it a thought that that that piece would come off and fall into the transmission. I will have to remember to be extra careful if I ever have to take it apart again. I wish you luck. suck that that little piece is making you have to go through all that just to get it out.

check the torsion bar adjustment bolt. They sometimes snap.