msavides

I would get a lot more done If I did.

I will check that stuff out this weekend it is not 108 degrees outside like it was yesterday.

It just recovers after about 30 secs. yea just feathering the throttle. But it never dies. I don't have to start the engine. again. I adjusted the TPS per factory service manual. That was the most pain in the but to adjust. Very touchy. I will check the temp sensor wire for corrosion. again. I checked the wires to the fuel pump all nice and clean. (the connector that is)

Ok I am posting this for 2 reasons . 1 to organize my troubleshooting thoughts. 2 to get some feedback on what to try. My pathfinder has been plagued by this issue for about 3 years now. It has just recently got worse. 3 years ago (aprox) I has having the high idle issue where my pathfinder would idle at about 1500-2000 rpm. I replaced TPS, IIAC,AAV, Mass Air flow wiring (nissan kit), Spark plugs and wires, Cap and rotor, Fuel filter, Fuel pressure regulator, both coolant sensors, all fuel injectors. What finally fixed the high idle was a replacement MAF sensor. However the stalling out is still there. it does not die. It seems like it dies but my engine is still running when it stalls and I pull over. It intermittently seems to stall on acceleration. The other day it did it after a left turn and acceleration. I have checked my battery and connections I though it may be a broken battery mount disconnecting wires. But all is good there. I also have a brand new CAT and O2 sensor. (just got it to pass smog) And before anyone says to asks for codes there are none just 55. This used to happen maybe once a month, it recently went to about once a week and yesterday it did it twice on me. I am thinking fuel. perhaps my fuel pump, Maybe a chunk of something clogging the sock. I have checked my fuel pressure with a gauge and it was fine. (can't remember the pressure reading) But this seems to be intermittent.

I also noted before the smog test that my cooling fans were not coming on. I let the smog guy know this, so the smog guy turned on the heater and ac. ( he had to turn the ac off while it was on the dyno) I am sure that cooled it down before the dyno test and could have something to do with it. I guess I gotta chase down the fan controller gremlin now. I hate not being able to drive my truck that much, Hopefully once I get the fans fixed I can take it on a few trips per week. I had not changed the oil since the smog 2 years ago. I use mobile one synthetic and like I said there was only few hundred miles on it from the last smog. The oil did not look dirty. I still should have changed the oil before the smog regardless. 2 more year reprieve on my pathfinder

Well. i just barely passed. my 15mph HC was at 87, max was 88. This was with my 2 year old cat that was used for about 30 miles and then stored for 2 years, same with the o2 sensor. I have driven it less than 2000 miles in the past 2 years. I actually did not change the oil before the smog, and I put mid grade fuel (my mistake) Well hopefully in 2 years I will pass again my correcting with an oil change and low grade fuel. Perhaps some denatured alcohol in the tank as well

AWESOME!. I hope mine goes as well as yours this weekend. Fingers crossed

Precise, I am sure it was the o2 sensor. But like you said smog checks are not cheap. It takes 10 min for me to swap my o2 sensor and cat. Existing o2 sensor was new as well as the cat. I ditched my punched out cat when I lost my low end torque. I am just taking away the chances of wasted money from failing a smog check. I have replaced all of my sensors when I was chasing an eratic idle so both temp sensors were new 3 years ago.

WOW. smog problems. Been there and may be going back again. I am in Manteca. The last time I had issues with a smog my numbers did not change at all from the previous 2 years. But California lowered the max emissions 20% so I failed my 2nd year. That was 2 years ago, My solution then was to buy a new cat and new O2 sensor and use it just for smog. I installed them and got it smogged, then I took them off and put them in a box. Now it is time to re install them and go back. I am due in April so I am going to have to do this in the next couple of weeks. SIgh. I hope California did not lower them any more. I Got tired of the stock Cat flanges and welded some ball flanges on my exhaust. That way I don't have to mess with gaskets and loosening stock flanges when I swap it out every 2 years. Let me see if I still have those numbers handy for 2 years ago. I am curious if they changed again. Here are my numbers before the new cat and new o2 sensor 2 years ago. where is says 2 years ago is now actually 4 years ago and where is says this time or today that was 2 years ago Uploaded at ImageFra.me

I just got the rear ones. I paid $99.00US total out the door with shipping. The seller had them in his garage for a while and sold his pathfinder ages ago. Only had one set I will post pictures after I mount them, Whenever I get around to mounting them.

I have been watching ebay for the past 3 years I have only seen them come up twice. 1st one I missed, 2nd one I grabbed. They are hard to find.

I have a spare ecm for my 91 I took the board out of the case and dipped it in electronic coating. I still have not tested it to see if it is water tight. I was planning on making a video of starting the pathfinder and then dropping the board into a bucket of water to see is it worked I never got around to doing it. One of these days I will test to see if it is waterproof. I know that is still works after doing the coating, So the coating did not damage it.

if your egr temp sensor is there. It may not be defective. What tends to happen is the passage that routes the exhaust gas to the sensor gets gummed up with carbon and does not heat the sensor. That is what happened to mine, All I needed to do was clean out that passage of the carbon build up and then the light went off. BTW if they did not swap the sensor when you got the replacement engine in and you still have the California ECU then your light would have came on as soon as the replacement engine was installed. More info. the egr is controlled by a little electric vacuum switch. Make sure that the vacuum lines did not come disconnected or cracked. this will also cause your Egr not to engage. Egr valve will generally seize and not move if they are bad, I have seen the diaphragm crack as well this could also be the issue. Hope this helps

here is what i was sent. Came with a drill bit and aluminum rivets. The fuel door does not even come close to the notch. the notch does not need to be there at all. WOW! I assume you remove the stock flares. even though it looks like these things will go right over the stock ones.

does anyone have a picture of these. I just got some but I think they are not for my pathfinder. the rear left side has a notch and the rear right side does not. Only thing I can think the notch is for is maybe the gas door but it is too far away for it needed to be notched for that. Pictures for both sides of the rear Bushwacker extend-a-fender flares would be great if anyone has them. Thanks

I have a remote start alarm on my 5 speed pathfinder. On my alarm you have to leave the engine running, then set the parking brake, then turn off the ignition.(vehicle still remains running) then open the drivers door, get out and close the door, at this point the engine shuts down and remote start will work for this point on. If you open the door remote strart becomes disabled and you will have to do this whole setup all over again in order to enable it again. I did all the wiring for it to work, Tested and made sure it worked, Never used it again. LOL

wow these must me new. Looks like my cooper STT with added armor on the sidewalls. I know what my next tire will be. I cannot say enough about my STT. They are awesome. I went wheeling in the snow and everyone I went with got stuck at some point. I never even got close to stuck. They have taken a tone of abuse and have had some seriously sharp rocks take nicks at my tires. I bought them 5 years ago and they are still holding up. Mind you That I do not use them as a daily driver so I cannot speak for everyday treadwear. The are the best all around tire. They do ok in all offroad categories. They do better than my Mudd Brutes and they were a mud tire, However there are plenty better in the mud, just none as good in mud and in other category. They do clear the mud out of the tread easily. They are rock chuckers though. so anyone driving behind you will not be very happy. Americas tire is where I buy all my tires. They will meet any advertised price and one of the only place where you can haggle the price down. They have done better on rotations than Costco. (costco made me wait 2 hours and they still had not done the rotation)

Have you made sure everything is connected to your interlock switch. especially if you have been pulling on wires behind the dash it may have came disconnected. Not sure if it can be the problem or not. I am not sure as I have permanently jumpered my clutch switch to allow my remote start alarm to work properly

Make sure you use a the correct size fuel injector clamp, they will hold more even clamping force around the hose without digging into the hose.

I at first thought this was an animal abuse thread, I had the same issue with my cat. I punched it out. I then bought a new one. I welded ball fittings to both the punched out cat and the new one. I will swap my new one in every 2 years for the emissions test, then swap the punched out one back in. I passed the first time and failed 2 years later. All the numbers from the test remained unchanged (put only 1000 miles on my pathfinder in those previous 2 years). California reduced the max emissions by 20%. I guess to try and get the older cars off the road. F you California.

double post.

since is is so simple to replace the output shaft seal, you could just replace that and see if the leaking stops. I am a firm believer that if one is leaking the others are soon to follow, If it is not a major job to replace the output shaft then, I always say do the cheaper/ easier one first if it stops leaking your done. if it still leaks you then have to do the big job. Just my 2 cents for what its worth also just noticed you also have a drain plug in the vicinity that could be the culprit.

I put in a centerforce clutch a week before I did the jungle trial at hollister. I did not drive it much except for the drive from Manteca to Hollister. The clutch was a bit grabbie for the trip there but it seemed to break in on the drive there. I have not had a problem with it still to this day. I would think as longs as you resurface the flywheel or replace it, clutch break in should go smoothly. You want to avoid overheating and glazing the flywheel before you wear the clutch linings to match the flywheel/pressure plate surfaces. Most of the time there is not much of a gap and this happens pretty quickly. If you buy a low quality clutch or have a improperly machine flywheel (or rusty/dirty) this will take longer.

Btw, A body lift requires a lot of relocating and extending of fuel lines, ect. Would be a lot of work to do just for the easier access to the transmission only to put it back afterwords.

Rebuild = removing old boots, removing old grease, cleaning any debris, checking for excess play within the joint, then re-greasing and putting on new boots. if they have excess play, are worn or clicking there done. Look for scoring, cracks, and discoloration in the Balls. BTW it has been said that Rockford boots are the most durable boots. I just bought cheap rock auto boots.