msavides

Be careful of the cheap china cv half shafts. They are not as strong as the factory nissan half shafts. This was a new GSP half shaft (not rebuilt) GSP laughed at me when I asked them to cover it under their lifetime warranty.

so your saying they did not have it smogged for you for the transfer of ownership. I think that is pretty much the norm. I know they say that the smog is the responsibility of the seller, but every private party vehicle purchase I have done I had to get it smogged. When I bought my Pathfinder it had a clogged EGR Cleanout and bad egr sensor. The reason he got rid of it was because it failed smog and did not want to deal with it.

It takes me about 5 min to swap cats. with air tools since I converted to ball flanges so I can say goodbye to them damn Nissan gaskets (Only another 3 min to change the o2 sensor). My old O2 sensor only had about 2200 miles on it, So it should be good still. I Just want to have the same new parts to put back on in 2 years when I have to smog it again. Who knows what they will lower the max emissions to in 2 years.

Have you ever tried to drill through the frame. I tried to and after 10 min and only drilling through one side I gave up and welded mine to the frame. they are plenty strong just welded to the outside of the frame. I drilled nice and slow with quality bits and using oil. That metal is freaking strong.

Actually I just pull it out and wash it off in the sink and wring it out to dry it. I have an HKS super hybrid Air Filter. I think i need to put a rubber gasket around it though, that is how the muddy water got to the MAF. I should not have been in that deep of water to begin with. IT PASSED SMOG TODAY! here are the numbers

IT PASSED After it passed I went home and pulled off the new Cat and the New O2 sensor. Those will be my smog test parts I will use again in 2 years. I like this smog guy. He does not give any coupons or discounts but he will put the engine at 3500 rpm for 45 secs right before starting the test. He also knows his stuff and we had a discussion about the other smog shops around town. Costed me $70 but at least I know if I had failed he would have told me exactly what to do to pass the test.

Today: change oil, replace PCV valve, Clean mud off MAF sensor, Fix exhaust leak on header crossover pipe, and fill tank with gas Tomorrow: Hopefully pass smog. Over the Next few months : Break in new clutch

Even with two people and a transmission jack. it took me over 45 mins of finagling the transmission into the splines. You have to get the transmission perfectly level with the engine to get the splines to slide right in. Both times I was not lucky in getting it to slide right it. I wish you guys all the luck.

Damn. your basically going through all the stuff I have the past month. Although I did my timing belt 2 years ago. Fighting California enhanced smog right now. Just did my clutch this weekend and would have much rather did the timing belt twice. It sucks. Well have fun,

I just replaced my clutch this weekend. According to the FSM it does state to use sealant on the two backing plates.(helps keep the lower plate connected to the large plate (let it dry and clamp it together) while trying to reconnect the transmission to the engine) If you look at the plates you will see the factory sealant spots. If they are still good on the plates you probably wont need anything. However if it was coming off the plates like mine was you may want to reapply in those spots. It also says to apply sealant to to the other side of plate where transmission bell housing makes contact. Even if all your plates look good I would put a thin coat of sealant on the plates where the FSM say to. I used the ultra grey RTV silicone. Good luck Clutch job is a PITA.

when I replaced the plugs they were all normal light brown. there were only in there for 5,00 miles. Never had antifreeze go into the engine. A new O2 sensor was put in 5 mins before the smog test. I get about 17-20 mph highway. While replacing my clutch this weekend I did notice a leak at my header crossover pipe under the transmission that is before the O2 sensor. I put a new clamp on it so it should be good now. I also will be putting in my new cat right before my next smog. I will swap it back to the old cat after the smog. I will make it my smog cat. I put ball flanges on my new and old cat so I can just swap them back and forth with 4 bolts and never have to worry about gaskets again. I did the lean rich test way back when i was trying to diagnose the leaking injector code. I have not done it since I replace my injectors. I will have to do that next weekend. Thanks for the advice. Mark

I had a leaking injector code a year ago. That was fixed with a new MAF Harness. No codes in over a year.

yes cap and rotor was also done about 5,000 miles ago, I put a brand new O2 sensor in right before it went to get smogged. miss is only at idle does it all the time. I believe i tried this before and the miss went away when i pulled the ( #1 ?) (passenger side closest to the firewall) compression test was also done about 5,000 miles ago. Can't remember the numbers but they were all withing 3-10 psi of each other. reason wires and plugs were just replaced was because i suspected the autolite platinum plugs were causing issues. I put NGK Copper plugs in place them. timing is at 15. I have been unable to change this on this truck. If I move the distributor it momentarily changes then goes right back to 15.

little history. the cat has about 5,000 miles on it. but the truck has had a slight miss at idle for a long time the plugs & wires were just changed trying to fix the miss, the following was changed withing the last 3,000 miles. IAC valve TPS sensor MAF sensor ECM Temp sensor Fuel injectors Fuel filter Air Filter EGR Solenoid EGR Valve Timing belt water pump Thermostat We are enhanced smog in manteca, it is done on the dyno I just ordered a new cat, I am going to make it my smog cat, I will only swap it in for my smog check. going to do the same with a new O2 sensor.

SO for the first time since i bought my truck I failed smog. only failed on hydrocarbons at the 15 mph test. after I failed I decided to look at my smog report from 2 years ago when I failed. From the results above looks like California has reduced the MAX emissions by about 30% my results are on par with what they were 2 years ago as I have only driven about 2200 miles from the time of the last smog. looks like I only need to reduce my hydrocarbons 12 points to pass. should be pretty easy to do with some FI cleaner.

since you went through mud and water. I home you checked your air filter. Me and a buddy of mine just went through mud, (not as deep as you) and he had mud all the way up to the butterflys in the intake. Mine had mud in the MAF. check and clean everything in your air intake path. I bet you will find mud everywhere. we both suffered dead alternators for our mudding pleasures. Good luck

just to add some info to this old thread in case someone searches for it http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30788&st=0 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/828/1001103w.jpg/ this should help decide what is the weak spot

Replaced my 9 year old optima red top with a new optima yellow top. seems I was using the wrong battery in my truck, since it runs Hid lights and a winch. I probably would have bought another red top except that the yellow top was the same price as the red top at autozone. Next will be to get it smogged on Saturday morning. I hope it passes. Wish me luck

Funny that is seems that both of trucks had the same issue and we both battled it for years replacing everything. It would be even better if both of our problems were the same exact thing. I hope it stays fixed mine has for

There was a thread (I think on here) that detailed retentioning the connectors for better contact. My connectors did not have a speck of corrosion on them and a retentioning the connectors did not help my problem.

I have one that I cannot use. It is not compatible with an ARB bumper. I crawled under to see if I could maybe alter it, but I had no ideas. Mark

Seems awfully fishy to me. Perhaps this is your problem. Or a makeshift fix from a previous owner gone wrong. I never messed with mine so I am not sure if that is stock or not. Since all I did was install the factory retrofit harness. I think you may have stumbled on your problem. I would check to see if that wire is indeed going to ground with a volt meter. Mark

I agree It is real simple to make something similar. As a matter a fact probably more reliable than the piggyback connector. However I decided to just but the harness since it comes with a new plug that goes on the MAF then the old plug plugs into it. Since I did not know where the problem lied. still not sure

I actually had a check engine light come on, however it was a leaking injector code that did not get added to federal ecu until 93-95 California ecu have this in 1990 - on. So I Imagine the intermittent ground when it acts up the Maf senses incorrectly and causes the ecu to trigger the injectors to add too much fuel, And that continues for a while until the ground is restored intermittently and the excess fuel burns off. So wiggling the connector would not fix it fast enough to diagnose. I only drove my truck on the weekends so that is why I say it was fine for a week. If i drove it everyday I think I would have the same frequency of the problem showing itself. I really hope this fixes your problem. I banged my head against the wall for 3 years until I finally replaced the harness. I knew about the ground issues But figured since I had tested the ground wire and cleaned it that it could not be it. Another theory is that it is not so much a bad ground but maybe a problem with the common ground with other components creating some kind of interference that is affecting the ecu's reading of the MAF. Sounds far fetched to me. The ground harness adds a second ground to the harness and does not just replace the current ground. So perhaps adding diversity to the ground reducing interference. I can sit here a spout all kinds of theories but in the end successfully remedying the problem is the most important thing. Someone here may know more about the electrical system grounds and its effect on sensors and the ecu. Mark

I got my MAF harness through Rob. Just call him and tell him what you need He will look it up. Grabbing it and wiggleing it around will not help. The issue is intermittent. I tried to use volt meters to check for ground and it was all ok. I think the intermittent ground puts the ecu in a weird state and it takes the ecu a while to recover from it. This was a really weird problem and sometimes it would go weeks without acting up then just when I am about to pronounce it fixed it comes back. I have pronounced this fixed several times and it has not come back. I hope this fixes your problem as well. PART NUMBER: 24079-40F00 ENGINE SUB HARNESS $19.83 (NISSAN LIST $32.50) Make sure to mention you are a NPORA member! WWW.FACTORYNISSANPARTS.COM phone 1-866-742-0297 Rob Lacy Parts Department 1-866-742-0297 1-214-491-6565