msavides

Make sure you overfill the Transmission.

That is the factory sub harness that Nissan released to fix the MAF ground wiring. I expected a little better build quality out of it myself. I just installed one on my truck and so far (knock on wood) My CEL has not come back. I will hold my breath. But It is Authentic Nissan. Mark

I have an new cable sitting in my garage If you want it. Mark

They go together perfectly. Just have to run a drill through the holes to straighten them out and get longer bolts. I welded up that useless radiator drain plug hole as well. I still have not got under the truck to take a photo of the carnage. Mark

I took 2 of the stock skid plates and welded them together. I drilled holes every 4 inches and plug welded them and ground them flat. I had to get longer bolts. So far it has held up. I Put a huge dent in it slamming it into some rocks last year. I will post of couple of pics of how well it took it. I powder coated the inside silver so I can see better in the engine compartment and used roll on bed liner for the bottom. Here some pics of the build

Summit racing has redline Mt-90 they get it to us californians in a day. Only stuff I use in pathfinder Manual Transmissions. Although I only use Royal purple ATF in all my autos.

I have changed a starter on one without a lift and headers and one with a lift and headers. Let me just say the one with the lift and headers was 100 times easier. This was a manual transmission though.

The pause at 1000 rpm is normal in a manual. From what I was told it is controlled by the ecu to allow for better syncro shifting. after a few sec it figures out that you are not going to shift and settles down to normal idle. I am thinking of putting in a federal ecu to take care of my check engine light. since federal in 91 did not have the injector trouble codes. I will see if it works. But first I want to install the Mass air flow sub harness to see if that takes care of the problem. Mark

Cool.. Got out an get a lotto ticket now. Your extremely lucky. I got the same deal at rock auto in November. I did not think they had anymore. But good score. Mark

I wish you luck. And my idle has been still perfect. Stupid check engine light!!

I guess it depends on your luck. I had no such luck. It took me 2 hours. and about 60 attempts to get it correctly set. See here for my tips http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25451&st=20 Mark

I have the fuses installed in my hubs, I also have an arb in the front. I have not broke any cv's or any fuses. However I have replaced both of my cv's with new ones from rock auto. In going over the specs for the fuses. They are still stronger than what the cv's are rated at. I think even with the fuse the cv's are still the weak link. The fuses are designed to fit many different hub model and I don't think they are rated to break before our lowly nissan cv's break. Also if your Cv's are breaking because they are binding then the fuse will not offer you any protection whatsoever. since the bind occurs well before the fuse. Also replacement cv's I have noted have less angle before they bind. I tested this against my stock Nissan ones when I replaced them with new ones. (I replaced my boots on my old shafts and kept them as spares for this reason. Now my only thought about this is that the nissan ones were worn so they did not bind as easy. So I eased the new one in to try and break them in before giving them the extreme stress of hard wheeling. This is just a theory. Just My 2 Cents Mark

If you do not already have a factory service manual get one. It has detailed instructions on how to set you base idle and troubleshooting for figuring out your idle. you also have an aac valve that controls your idle. I just went through some wacky unstable idling problems that turned out to be my Throttle Position Sensor. your problem seems to be with your cold idle and there is really good troubleshooting for that. you could even look at the 1995 manual that in online in pdf format, I don't think there was any troubleshooting differences between 91 and 95. Mark

I have had zero success adjusting timing on my truck. every time I try to adjust it it moves then goes right back to 15, i then turn the dist again it move for a sec then goes right back to 15. So i don't think adjusting it will help. I think the ecu corrects it. When I was doing a tune up I read the proper way to adjust the base timing is to disconnect the harness plug from the Throttle position sensor, and that disables the auto timing adjustment then you adjust the timing to as close to 15 BTDC as possible. as soon as you reconnect the TPS it adjusts itself anyways. I am not 100% sure if this is correct operation, This is from my experiences with my truck. Mark

For anyone who is dealing with broken Bolts. These are the SHIZIT! I had no problems removing my 3 broken studs with these. they drill reverse and once you drill into the bolt far enough you turn the extractor on the bit to remove. They are truly AWESOME. I have also removed other broken studs with ease. My antenna just snapped off flush on my pathfinder so I will be trying them out on it as well. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00953153000P

just an update. Idle is still perfect. I think this high idle problem is licked.

I agree. they will price match costco. I always buy my tires from them. opposite of Costco. one time when i went to Americas tire to get my tires rotated they had all of their bays filled with vehicles. they sent 2 guys out with floor jacks to rotate my tires in the parking lot. That is the type of service I appreciate.

This Has got me thinking. I have a front locker. and it is really hard to steer with it engaged. I thought about hydro assist. But then i saw this thread ans it got me thinking. Would if I was able to get a power steering unit from a right hand steering (uk or aus) and use a Toyota MR2 electric power steering pump to power it. I would be able to get power steering from both sides of the steering system that should give me More power to move the wheels. Just a thought. Anyone have any suggestions or can tell me if this would or wouldn't work. Now to obtain a Terrano power steering box.

one thing to add about buying tires from costco. Prices are good and all. However if you ever go to get a tire rotation it takes them hours to do it, They always put priority on people buying new tires, so as long and they are selling tires they will bump you to last. I once waited over 3 hours to get a simple rotation, when I went to pick up my car they said they were just getting to it now. I told them forget it and I would never be buying tires from them again. So if you rotate your own tires or don't mind waiting go for it. Now I would hope that your costco would be different. All 4 costco stores near me do the same thing.

I found another TSB on the code 45 CEL. It involves checking the ecu ground. It comes from pin 115 to the body under the passenger seat. I check my ohm reading there and at pin 115 they were both at 0.00. so still looking for the problem. I got to thinking, if i can't find the problem. what would be the possibility of a non-California ECU working in a California truck. I have read that some people have installed a California ecu in a federal truck and everything worked great except they kept getting an egr temp sensor CEL. Since there in not one on the federal truck. My thought is that the federal computer will ignore the egr temps sensor that a California truck has and will work perfectly. and since the federal ecu does not have the injector and egr codes I should not have the CEL come on and should not have a problem passing the visual inspection at the smog shop. Does anyone know someone who installed a federal ecu into a California truck?

i wish i had some times that could magically make it easy to adjust. However only adjusting one of them does not make me a pro. It would take me just as long to do another one I am sure. The only thing I can say that can help is IT IS A PAIN IN THE A$$. Sometimes being mentally prepared for a battle is better than what happened to me. Thinking it is just 2 screws and that it was going to be a simple thing and then reality slaps me in the face and says OH no your going to have to work to get this thing fixed. However if you are an extremely patient person who is unflappable in the face of failure (like the person who can build a house of cards and when they fall can just start right over again without getting pissed off.) This job is for you. basics of the install is this. replace the sensor with a new one. tighten the screws enough to still allow the sensor to move. The hook a ohm meter to the top 2 pins on the sensor itself (not the wiring harness connector) disconnect your aac harness connector (on the top front passenger side of the engine should be 4 plugs there, it is the 2 pin plug) start the engine set your idle to be 700-750 rpm (Manual Transmission) using the screw on the manifold drivers side next to firewall. (screw turns toward the firewall lowers idle screw toward the front of the engine raises idle) there should be continuity with the accelerator pedal in rest position and it should be open at your base idle plus 250rmp + or - 150rpm So if you set your base idle at 750 you should make sure that sensor is open at 1000rpm + or - 150rpm but have continuity when the pedal is released. Sounds Easy! Unless you are extremely Lucky (like win the lottery Lucky) your going to be playing with this for a really long time. after it is set. turn off the engine. reconnect the AAC and connect the new tps to the tps harness and the tps sensor plug. (do not do this with the engine running or your ECU will wig out and give you a high idle about 2000 rpm.

I rerouted the ground straps to adjacent bolts in the vicinity. I also checked the engine ground with a volt meter. it was 00.000. Quite impressive to have no resistance. I noticed when i replaced the tps sensor that the distributor ground wire had broke off the connector and I replaced that. The only thing that has changed not is the CEL comes one reliably now instead of intermittent. I obviously fixed something to make the light come on every time all the time. Just another bit of info that could be something or could mean nothing.

Basically running rich or the o2 sensor sensing your running rich. if the computer and all sensors are working properly the ecu will close down the injectors to get it to lean out. if the o2 sensor still sees a rich condition it assumes that an injector is leaking and that is why it is still at a rich condition. then it trips the code.

I Think my Idle problem is fixed. I went on a wheeling trip today and i had a perfect Idle all day. No issues at all. The part I replaced was indeed the TPS. It is a total PITA to adjust though. took about 30 tries an almost 2 hours. now i just need to get rid of that check engine code 45 problem.