sonyslave

Many good lessons to be learned, thanks for sharing that one!

Thanks! I went with the Moogs too. Prob only about 15k ago. No problems.

Thanks Slartibartfast, yep gonna bite the bullet and do that today. Will post my findings.

This method is not perfect, but it is easy for you to to do by yourself and gets your toe alignment set fairly accurately provided you don't measure incorrectly. Tips: Gorilla tape holds fast to the tire. Use a flexible, light weight tape measure (mine was a freebie from the bank), or perhaps a cloth tape measure that flexes easily. Do not thread screws into the tire, just barely go into the tread block, this step is not necessary but it makes it easier to check that you are setting the tape measure on the exact same plane for an accurate measurement. Set 1st screw in tread. Measure distance to floor, use this distance to set the 2nd screw at a similar distance to floor -doesn't have to be perfect, just close - because this method measures difference. I like to mark the position and the measurement value on the tire itself to make things simple, use a pen mark traced on the tire. This helps to remind yourself if you are lacing the tape over or through the tread blocks so you can duplicate the lacing for the 2nd measurement. Roll Pathfinder to 2nd position for measurement, leave screws in place while rolling. Do not roll over screws. Retract tape measure and leave tape measure attached (taped) to tire during rolling, do not run it over. NOTE: the tape measure is still on the SAME SIDE of the screw relative to the screw. -don't lace the tape measure along the top(or bottom) of the screw for both measurements. The tape has to be in a straight line under the vehicle, obstructions to the tape forcing it to wrap/bend around will err your measure. The closer to 180 degrees out for the 2nd measurement will the aid the accuracy of the measurement. I can't take credit for this method, it was originally posted elsewhere -using pins/needles in the tread and measuring the distance between the pins. Seemed too difficult to do by myself so I modified it to this method. Hope this helps out somebody, I've gotten a ton of help from NPORA!!!

Doing a quick and dirty alignment, does anyone know the ratio of turns on the tie rod vs. inches/degrees of adjustment at the wheel? I have Moog tie rod outers if that matters...are all manufs standardized as far as threads per inch? So many questions... Thanks in advance for any help!

Thanks for passing that along Alkorahil! I'll check out those Nismo pads, great price! I try to stick with Japanese made replacement parts, usually they last longer than other brands.

Thanks all for the help and input. I wanted to stick with stock because based on what I've read the manufacturers put a lot of effort into optimizing pad performance and rotor life, often their oem pads offer the best trade off between the two. I originally checked rock auto, just wanted to confirm with others that the Akebono brand was the stuff Nissan would use. Thanks!!

Anyone know? Thanks! I'm swapping pads and want to stick with what Nissan uses. ....Yes I did a search, -a short one.

Nice! Like the door moulding too!

Looks sharp! Nice job.

I changed out my struts and had very similar problems to yours. I put the strut bearing in the wrong place upon installation. I took everything apart and put the strut bearing in the correct place and all was good after that. The problems I had were because of the friction due to there being no sliding bearing surface that is normally provided by the bearing.

For those considering doing the same: Another happy camper. Installed Kyb struts, Kyb bellows, Moog strut mounts, Kyb shocks and split poly trailing arm bushings(I forget the brand since I ordered it 2.5 years ago when the death wobble started -yes I procrastinate) . -The split ones are easier to install. I did the same as many others before me, installed KYB and they made the Pathy drive great. After installing only the new struts the death wobble was much less pronounced. A day later I did the shocks and split poly trailing arm bushings, now it drives fantastic. I wish the rear shocks had a little less dampening though. If I have about 200lbs in the back it's real comfortable, when empty the compression dampening in the rear is just a bit harsh but that may go away after the shocks bed in? Still happy I went with KYB since their shocks are known to be quality pieces. I have never dealt with struts before. I bought a spring compressor off of Amazon for $40(it goes by the name "OEM 25550 Strut Spring Compressor"). It worked well, but kinda scary the 1st time you use it. Mistake: I installed the strut bearing in the wrong spot on both assemblies. Fyi, you can still drive without strut bearings but the steering won't center on it's own and i'm sure the added stress and wear and tear is terrible. I took everything apart the 2nd day and reassembled it correctly. Surprisingly there was hardly any wear in the metal to metal contact points normally separated by the bearings. I attempted to cut out the old trailing arm bushing sleeves on my own with a hack saw but said fiorget it after half an hour and took it to a shop to have them pressed out. I'm so happy now with the way she drives that I'm going to fix the a/c. The old suspension had 160k on it and one strut was so worn that it would make a metallic loud 'whack' noise when going over mild potholes. Note: I do not live in a place where the roads are salted. I did use PB Blaster thread penetrent on all the bolts/nuts about a month before and then again the day before I removed them. They all came off pretty easily with air tools.

Thanks clkindred! That info helps!

Anyone know where is that steel ring spacer is supposed to go? It came with the Moog strut bearing mount. There doesn't seem to be enough room on top my KYB GR2 strut for it. Thanks!!!

My 96 at 150k had the same problem, thanks to these great NPORA folks I had the inside line to an easy fix. Seems the shifter interlock switch has the same rubber bumper as the brake switch, maybe that's why my cruise control doesn't work anymore. Related: like ahardb0dy my old 91 Sentra SE-r had the same brake issue, I fixed it and the Pathy the same way. Gaffer tape stuck to the pedal arm with a small piece of wood held in place by the gaffer tape to emulate the height of the rubber bump stop. This will have to do until I have time to get the right part.