msavides

I had been going through the exact same thing. I believe we have even collaborated on a few ideas. Well what has finally fixed it was. I purchased the factory Maf Ground harness repair. Ever since then my truck has not acted up once, it has been over a year and a half. It costs about $30 If I remember correctly. I had tried cleaning the ground connectors, replaced all injectors, replaced AAC, TPS, All Vaccuum lines, O2 sensor, Plugs, Plug Wires, Coil, ECU And IAC. Nothing fixed it. Now that I think about it I am kinda pissed that it was the ground all along. Mark

And just as I thought, the warn Fuse did absolutely nothing to save My Half Shaft. Although I was looking at posts of other people who have busted Half Shafts and Nobody's broke in the same spot as mine. Theirs all broke at the inner or the outer CV. Has anyone else seen a half shaft break at the splines? I am thinking that buying those cheap half shafts at rock auto may be the reason it broke there. Perhaps a defect. hmm. Well one of my rebuilt factory ones are back in now. Lets see if I can brake the other cheap china one.

what actually happened it the half shaft broke at an angle. when I continued to drive it pushed the broken piece outward and busted the Hub. There is no way Warn is going to honor a warranty on this. the inside of the hub is all gouged out by the broken pieces as it turned. I will just keep the one I have as a spare. This Probably would not have broken if I had not had my locker engaged. I ended up putting my nissan factory half shaft back in (replaced the boots on them 2 years ago). I still had fun breaking them, But the verdict is still out weather is was worth a broken half shaft and a broken hub. Mark

Ok Here's what really happened. Pictures worth a thousand words http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/828/1001103w.jpg/

I went wheeling for the first time in over a year. I did not really want to go, I was forced. But once I went over a few obstacles and having a car full of people encouraging me I actually started to have fun and remembered what it was like to wheel. then I got too confident and too impatient and well there you have it brought back down to reality. It was well worth the $150 for the new hubs. I would do it again in a heartbeat. The problem now is, there is nobody here to go wheeling with anymore. sniff sniff

Just got my replacement hubs I just purchased from amazon. Now to just make some time to swap them and ship them back to Warn. I must have misread I thought you were missing the bolts. That is some major release of force to bust that hub apart like that. Guess there was some weak spots in the casting of that hub. HMMM. Perhaps I should carry 2 as spares.

Yea I think yours broke more because of the missing bolts then impatience. Mine broke from 100% impatience. Live and learn.

Same thing happened to me. Although I think your tire was spinning a lot faster than mine. I had my front Air locker engaged as well. I Should have took it a bit slower. But Breaking things makes you learn patience. DID you get yours covered under warranty?

I did not notice that. But I have not tore it apart yet. Warn says to send them in. They said that I have to send them both in cause they only replace them as a pair. Seems strange. But I don't want to leave my truck hubs torn apart during the exchange. So I think i will buy a new set and put them on and then when they are swapped I will have a spare set. However I will not need 2 hubs as a trail spare only one. Perhaps I can find someone who wants a trail spare and will buy 1 off of me. Anyone?? Mark

If you wheel hard or are putting 32 or 33 inch tires on. I would splurge for the moog. I went cheap autozone ones without zerk fittings and my boots are torn and they are already worn. I only have about 10,000 miles on them, But most of those miles are hard wheeling miles with 32 inch tires My next set I will not be going cheap on.

They run about $100 at your local auto parts store. Lifetime warranty 73.00 at rockauto.com You can put an extra external cooler after the radiator if you want, while your at it add a spin on external filter as well (A lot easier to change than the internal filter) newer OEM radiators are plastic end caps now. Some applications you have no choice but to go with plastic (unless you go custom $$$$) Mark

Well I did not think i could break them But I did. The selector flew off well after the hub quit locking. I had a great time breaking them though

I do believe that the 2WD models have a drive shaft bearing that mounts to a cross-member. I would get under the truck and make sure that your drive shaft is not loose. Grab it and see if you have in play in it. You could be getting enough movement that the splines disengage and it starts slipping. This would explain why it only happens on an incline. Your drive shaft will more thank likely need to be replaced if it keeps this up. Also check the u-joints as well. Mark

If you start having a stiff shifts in the future. The redline mt90 will smoothen the shifting out. That is why I put it in my new transmission to begin with. Yea it is a bit pricey but still cheaper than a transmission overhaul. Mark

Redline Mt90 is the best stuff IMO. I had my tranny fail and got a brand new transmission and the first oil it ever saw was Redline Mt90. I get mine at summit racing. Mark

I have a lifted wd21 about 300 lbs of gear, 80lbs rockrails winch and Arb Bumper and steel rear bumper. I really notice the sluggishness after adding all that weight. I also have headers,32in Cooper MTs, 5 speed trans, and 2 open diffs (Arb lockers disengaged). I think I have done about every so called gas saving mod and I am getting average 17mpg on the freeway. One time I pulled a trailer full of camping gear uphill and got a whopping 10mpg. Mark

If you want to make sure everything is working correctly with that part of the ecu. I would do the diagnostic procedure starting on page 250. Looks like it has something to do with the ignition when starting the truck. Page 302 explains what pin 36 and 38 do and what voltages they carry at what state the truck is in. pin 36 goes to ignition switch and should have 11-14v with ignition switch on and 0v with the ignition switch off pin 38 is the power supply for the ecm. Should have battery voltage when the ignition switch is on. Hope this helps. Mark

see this thread http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26616 download the FSM The factory service manual has all the pin-outs of the Ecu in it and what they do. Will also let you know what other use the potentiometer on the ECM does. Apparently the link now longer works on that page. you can find it using the second link. or use this link http://rapidshare.com/files/301854759/1994_Pathfinder.zip pass: carpdf.net Mark

except most cell phone browsers are complete crap. I still have not found one that I really like. They all have there nuances. Tapatalk has basically push button UI that takes you through the forum. You don't have to zoom in to see buttons, or scroll side to side to see the other half of the messages. Maybe this will change when we get some real good browsers for mobile devices. Not sure how much work it en-tales to put the site on tapatalk but it is free. so I just thought I would put it out there. Mark

I know it works great using the browser, But posting and reading messages are some much easier using tapatalk. It also could get NPORA a little more visibility since tapatalk users can search for forums and then register to forums that strike their interests. Mark

Hey was wondering if the forum admins have considered getting NPORA on tapatalk. Tapatalk is an application for iphone and android to ease access to forums on mobile devices. Would be great to have this feature. Mark If you can't find your forum in this app, contact your forum admin to activate. It's free. Tapatalk supports vB, IPB, SMF and phpBB forums

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1211881&m=wc&l=en&html=true Get the parts while they last.

Damn. You got a Awesome Deal. I bought my 91 pathfinders 5 speed tranny and tranfer case from them Brand new in crate for $900.00 shipped to my door about 3 years ago. Worked great still had all the factory nissan tags on it. Those guys are awesome. Mark

And it will keep the bottom of the engine free from diaper rash.

PART NUMBER: 24079-40F00 ENGINE SUB HARNESS (NISSAN LIST $32.50) I ordered it through Alkorahil on this forum Pm him and he can give you his price for it. I have spent almost 3 years trying to get rid of My code 45 (leaking injector) Check engine light. If this POS harness fixes it. I don't care if it is hokey. So far so good. AN interesting thing happed when I installed it. though. For the first 2 miles (until the truck warmed up) my truck missed and spat ans sputtered and was cutting out. I thought crap This thing is doing mor harm than good. Then after it warmed up it was like a switch was flipped and it smoothed out. I have not had a problem yet in over a month. Mark