msavides

There are 3 wires on the lights. Black = ground Yellow = Turn signal Red = Ignition power The Black and yellow can be connected to the turn signal connector. I believe Green and Black. Black is ground Green is turn signal. The red you will have to find a source that has Power when the ignition is on. If you want to you can connect them to the driving lights (corners) if you want to be able to turn them off while driving. (first click on the headlight switch) Very easy.

here is a better Video of the operation of the turn signal, hazards, and DRL The camera cannot pick up the color difference between the upper and lower light. But the lower light is dimmer and more yellow than the upper light. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bprip2N_y5M&feature=youtu.be

$35 per pair & I used 2 pairs to fill the space in the bumper

Actually I added one. so Yes it does. However I think it is still leds

Yes I do. I am not sure if it is the leds or the electronic blinker relay.

The DRL is white. when the turn signal is on it blinks from white to amber. The white light was washing out the amber and the camera was too slow to detect the change in color accurately.

My cruise control works but it does something strange. As soon as I turn on my blinkers its cancels.

high NOX is generally EGR if it was high on the 25mph test If it was high nox at the 15mph changing cat may help universal Cats are not that expensive but the muffler shop may stick you for welding the flanges depending on how much they charge it may be cheaper for the bolt on https://www.catalyticconvertersonline.com/c-nissan-pathfinder-catalytic-converters-19474

Ok i did the install First of all let me clarify. I purchased one pair from this seller http://www.ebay.com/...ht_10203wt_1163 then I found what looked like the same item from this seller http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_6886wt_1396 Let me tell you this the ones that I paid $15 more for are much better quality. The lenses are sealed the wire is better quality and the lights are a nice bright color. The screws that mount do not go all the way into the case so it stays water tight. The cheaper ones. The lenses just snap off are not sealed, the wire is cheap and flimsy, The light is not as bright and slightly yellow, and they put loose nuts on the inside so when you remove the bracket the nuts fall off inside the case with no way to put the screws back in. I spent the better part of the day making brackets for for the lights to mount inside the arb bumper. I used 1/2 square tube stock to make a frame around the outside of the lights to fill in the gaps from the side and the bottom of the lights. I then put a thin piece of metal between the 2 lights so that they both had something to rest into. I then used a piece of metal to bolt the 2 lights behind the metal strip the lights rested on. this secured the lights in the frame.I then put nut rivets in the arb brackets and use angle brackets to come around the back side of the arb brackets. I then bolted them into the arb light brackets from the back so no screw holes are seen from the front. Not modifications were made to the arb bumper (besides installing the nut rivets). I sealed up the cheap ones since I had to take them apart to get the 2 nuts that were rattling around in the case and threatening to short out the lights. I also sealed up the holes where the screws went through with RTV Grey. I sealed up the grommet where the wire was coming out of as it was a loose fit and also not water tight. I then glued the lens on so it would not leak. I will post up pics when I get home tonight as I forgot to take pics as I was building it. I will aslo try and get pics of the back inside the arb bumper so you can see how it is mounted. They do stick out of the bumper quite a bit and that is my only concern. Pics Video Link of the turn signal and DRL http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AIQuXR61vo&feature=youtu.be

Well let me clear some stuff up Spal Claims their PWM unit is suitable under the hood. People who have put them under the hood have had problems with either heat or water tightness. Spal discontinued the controller do to these warranty issues. I already had ran my wiring in the cab because my previous controller was not waterproof at all (Centech) This was the biggest POS controller. only lasted a month and I had to tap the controller for it to come on. I am using a 87 nissan maxima dual fan. The metal fan and shroud fits a body lifted pathfinder radiator perfectly. (non body lift has steering box clearance issue) I am using the small low speed fan as my PWM fan and the larger fan on a relay. The PWM fan variably turns on at the low temp setting and gradually spins faster as the temp rises. When/IF the temp rised to the high temp setting / or ac is turned on the second fan that is controlled via relay (mounted in engine compartment) turns on. Low temp and high temp can be set to anything you want. the smaller fan only takes about 14 amps max and sense it is a soft start controller it does not use the full 14 amps to start the fan, so really is only pulling about 11 amps. the 2nd fan is the 19 amp fan that is powered on via the relay in the engine compartment so it does not need a long heavy gauge wiring run. I have been running this setup for about 3 years now with no issues whatsoever. And i do not have that loud fan howling when I pull up to that stop light. since it is variable PWM fan speed. also spal does not recomend using the controller with PWM with fans that use more than 30 amps max

I picked up a couple pair of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130692697883?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_6886wt_1396 I figured I could stack 2 of them to fill the space. It will be a little gap on each end as they only measure about 6.5 inches. Still a little cheaper than the ones above. I will have to work out how to mount them though. BTW These are going in my arb bumper so when I mount them it will be a different setup than the stock bumper. I will update with pics and how I end up doing it.

looks like they are too small. 1.3inches by 5.3inches

yea that is for a pair. Mine had mud in them so the crappy seal was not even filtering the water. I read that all ARB bumpers use the same turn signal cutouts. IS it just coincidence that pathfinder turn signals are the same and that is why Arb does not include them with pathfinder bumpers. I will wait until I get a reply back on the size before I order them .

Well After the factory ones were cracked and leaking water. into them. I bought some cheap clear turn signals off ebay. First puddle I hit fills them with water. I know they have a vent port on them and they will always fill up. However I plugged that vent and the lenses don't seal worth a crap. The molded plastic is not even straight.. Is there an option for better quality lenses that seal. Perhaps even a completely sealed LED option. I found these but I am not sure if they will fit. I wrote to them asking for dimensions. http://www.parts4eur...roducts_id=1078

I still say transmission fluid. if the wrong weight was used then it would be thicker in the cold weather and would make it hard to shift.

The chatter in reverse is becoming less and less. I think it is pretty much broke in know. I won't worry too much about the 500 miles break in. 99% of the people I have talked to said they only drove about 100 miles before they either stomped on it or took it hardcore wheeling. I think the drive to Hollister tomorrow will put me over 250 miles however most of tomorrows driving will be freeway. I will try to be a little gentle on it while wheeling but I Know I can't help myself once I get out there.

Yep high humidity in Florida would warrant the A/C being on all the time. They had 3 different version try to waterproof/insulate the controller. Then I think they just gave up. I think even condensation was messing them up. I had previously bought a centech controller and it was not at all waterproof. It was extremely unreliable, so when I replaced it with the spal controller the wires were already run to the cab.

I have been running a Spal PCM Fan controller for the past 3 years with no issues. I heard the issues with the spal Pcm controller is when it is mounted in the engine compartment and with running them with fans that draw more than 30 amps. I mounted min in the cab under the Ac evap. Andreus009 was yours the PCM version. The one where you can set 2 temp settings Low and high. I know Spal has now discontinued this model. So Far I have had great experience with it.

You said you just changed the transmission fluid. What type of fluid did you put back in. I bought a brand new nissan transmission (factory nissan) 5 years ago. I drained the stock fluid and put some cheap sta-lube gl-4 gear oil in it(it was an old stock transmission that had been sitting for 10 years) to run it for the first 500 miles. It shifted like crap when it was cold. After the 500 miles I drained it and put in red line MT90. What a huge difference. It shifted like butter after that. I will never put anything in my Manual transmission but MT90. I think that sta-lube Gl-4 I put in was the wrong weight and that is why it was so hard to shift when it was cold.

Yep I definitely got a defective one. I could see an air pocket in the end where it broke. I bought it from rock auto and they no longer carry GSP (due to warranty acceptance problems) I hope advanced auto does not ditch GSP and no longer accept warranty. I contacted GSP Directly and they ignored my warranty request. I am also runnning a front arb locker and that put a bit more strain on the half shafts.

100% sure New flywheel, pressure plate, clutch. The pilot bearing had only 5,000 miles on it as well as the throw out bearing. I had a bad rear main seal that took out my last clutch at 5,000 miles. I also used a clutch alignment tool to ensure the clutch was centered to the pilot bearing.

Split boots are generally a band-aid fix. they do not work for very long. They eventually end up spraying grease all over the place.

I know a few of you guys have installed one in the past. I was wondering if any of you experienced any chattering. Mine has a bit of chatter when going in reverse. Shifting perfectly in 1-5 I only have about 100 miles of stop and go miles on the new clutch so perhaps it will go away.

unfortunately, not as easy as in the video. You have to remove the auto locking hub and then to get it out you will have to either break loose the upper ball joint and Tie rod end or just the lower ball joint. It is not that hard. just a few more steps.

In addition Dirt is a CV joints worst enemy. It will grind away at the joint until it is so loose that it is not worth repacking with grease and a new boot. I saved my factory nissan half shafts after my boots ripped. I then cleaned them repacked them and put new boots on them and put them on the shelf. when my GSP hald shaft broke I just swapped 1 of original ones back in. I still keep a look out on rock auto for the boot kits to go on sale. I picked up 12 of the outer boots for 2.59 each. Still need 12 inners, mark