msavides

The thing that's a pisser. is insurance is so you don't have to take a loss on your vehicle and to minimize inconvenience in case something happens. and so you can get it replaced (with one just like it) Now how are you suppose to replace it with one like it for what they offered. I think in California they have a little stricter guidelines regarding where they get their cash value amount from (that was then could be different now). If you get your ducks in a row and get some replacement cost figures on what it would take for you to replace it and confront the adjuster maybe you could sway them. The thing that sucks is in order to get this resolved to your satisfaction you are probably going to have to take them to court. Insurance is so you don't have to go to court and be sued. It is a sad state of affairs when you have to sue your own insurance company after you have been paying them for so many years.

This is awesome. They even tell you what row it is in and how long it has been in the yard. http://www.picknpull.com/check_inventory.aspx mark

The problem with car insurance is that your premiums are based on the actual cash value of your vehicle. Unless you get special insurance or special riders on your policy. They will only pay you KBB value. Even if you put in a solid gold dash and platinum steering wheel. In order to get the special riders or special insurance you have to take your car and get it appraised by an appraiser of the insurance company choosing this is all before they issue you a policy. Unfortunately there are few insurance companies that offer this type of insurance. And the ones that do are very expensive. On newer vehicles most of the time you owe more than the vehicle is worth and if the insurance company totals it you will still owe on the loan for your vehicle. (this happened to me) This is why I only have liability coverage on my pathfinder and I park it in my garage. My new daily driver stays in the driveway. If they steal my daily driver I will get more of my investment back than if I had my pathfinder fully covered and it was stolen. Because I know the insurance company will only pay the blue book value and that would not even cover my front and rear arb lockers. Let alone the Arb bumper and winch. It is getting pretty sad, seems like more and more of our vehicles are being targeted for theft. Unfortunately the cooler we make our vehicles the more people want to steel them and joyride them or just take all our cool parts. I put a pager alarm in my pathfinder that will page me if my trucks alarm is sounded. that way I can meet them guns drawn. Standard alarms are just ignored nowadays since they go off so often for no good reason. anyways, Just be glad you got it back. Mark

OSH has that bearing for around $5. I installed one last year, Took 5 mins and $5 Easy repair

It is called a diversity antenna system. Both antennas work for FM. Window antenna works for Fm only. If you remove the window one you will lose the benefits of the diversity antenna. If you remove the mast you will lose Am reception. The original radio had a special antenna plug that contained two connectors. If you replaced the factory radio an adapter would be required to use the factory antennas with the new radio. See link Below. What it is: A diversity antenna system uses two antennae mounted at different locations on the vehicle and automatically chooses one that provides the better FM radio signal. The customer is therefore less likely to notice static or weak audio signals due to obstructions. How it works: Power lines, traffic lights and buildings can cause local areas of weak FM signals. When driving through such areas, a listener might notice decreased volume or increased noise or static often when the vehicle is stopped for a traffic signal. With two antennae, there is a better chance that one will receive a clear signal. A circuit inside the radio automatically chooses the better signal. Customer benefit: Better FM radio reception. Adapter http://cableorganizer.com/outlet/DAS-40NI30.html?section=3&catname=CATV+%2F+MATV+%2F+Satellite+]+Switches+%2F+Amps+%2F+Transformers&src=froogle&CAWELAID=299533734

Are you sure the oil is getting to the head. Look through the oil filler with it running make sure your getting oil to the lifters. Could have taken out the oil pump or the passages got clogged with sludge that was broken up by the treatment. If oil is not getting to the lifters that could be what is causing the ticking. This is very serious Don't run it if your not getting oil to the top of the head.

Speaking of Bolts. I did my headers over 2 years ago. I had problems with the collector bolts loosening up in as little as 2 days. NO matter what I did every couple of days they would loosen back up. I finally broke down and bought some stage 8 locking collector bolts. Have not had a problem since. http://www.stage8.com/products_lcb.html I also Used these split lock bolts for the header install. They have not loosened up at all I did not even need to re torque them after installation either. They were the perfect length. You just torque them and then set the locking screw. They will not come out. as a matter of fact if you set the locking screw it you will not be able to remove the bolt without loosening the set screw. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-20008/

It only uses 19 amps. so 2nd battery and higher amp alternator is not required. I have a planned dual batteries as soon as I find a Good ACR. I have a mean green 180 amp installed. I will use it for my air lockers and for airing up after wheeling. I may be able to run a air impact from it for a limited time , Probably enough to break off 6 lug nuts.

http://www.viaircorp.com/OffRoad/460C.html .94 cfm @ 100 psi Fill rates 5.0 Gallon Tank Fill Rate 0 To 105 PSI 4 Min. 20 Sec. 85 To 105 PSI 58 Sec. 0 To 145 PSI 6 Min. 40 Sec. 110 To 145 PSI 2 Min. 11 Sec.

Brass was a little pricey But It was not that bad as it is only 1/8 inch. (looks larger in the picture) If I had ordered all the parts for this compressor the first time I would have bought the 3 way T push locks. But It was a quick swap so I ran down to OSH and picked up the fittings. I think total for all the fittings I used there was like $15.

Tank is the rear bumper. It works out to be about 900 cubic inches of tank (just under 5gal)

After messing with tweaking retweaking, Redesigning, and still having problems. I decided to stop being such a cheap a$$ and spend some money, I went cheap with a lincoln Mark VII air bag compressor. It worked great for the lockers, however it would only air up one tire before thermal protection kicked in and I would have to wait 20 mins for it to cool down enough to reset. Well I decided to spend the money on a 100% duty cycle compressor this time, Of course all my custom mounts had to be rebuilt, SIGH!. This is what I came up with. Let the tweaking begin, Any comments or ideas to tweak are welcomed. Thanks Mark Old set up with Lincoln Mark VII Compressor New setup with Viar 100% duty cycle compressor

the last bit of info would point to the vacuum brake booster. It is the only thing that would effect the engine running. Perhaps a bad check valve in the brake booster.

I think about 9 out of 10 Nissan Starters die like this. I think they say it is a flat spot on the armature of the starter motor. The starter will start fine as long as it does not land on that spot. Then the motor will not turn. I have known several people that have kept there starter going for months by tapping the starter. This causes the the brushes to move just enough off the flat spot of the armature. The problem is eventually it will completely die. and no amount of tapping will work. People will even remove the starter and bench test it and through the act of removing the starter or bumping it as they take the starter out will make it start working again (just ask SLICK) LOL. don't be tempted to put it back in. It will only fail. Also A lot of these re manufactured Nissan starters have these problems right out of the box. They test them at the factory, but it is random to hit the flat spot and with new brushes it will have enough surface contact with the armature to work just fine until it either hits that flat spot or the brushes wear enough to not make good contact on the flat spot. so Buyer Beware when Purchasing Remanufactured starters. also Oil on the brushes or the armature will cause this same thing to happen and we all know where the oil goes when we pull the oil filter off. Just A little more of my 2 cents. As if anyone wanted it. Mark

the bolts will look just like the transmission bolts they will go through the bellhousing of the transmission through a backing plate and then thread into the starter. Bolt head should be visible from transmission side not the starter/engine side. just look at the bolts that hold the transmission on and remove the 2 bolts that line up with the starter.

I think the Key is (pardon the pun) To get the key cut as accurate as possible and not so much the quality of the key itself. If the key works smoothly (cut properly) you should not have to put much pressure to turn the key and it should not break. An improperly cut (even slightly off) will put extra wear on the key and on the tumblers on the lock. That is why I always stick to the 1 copy rule. I have an original cut. and make only 1 copy from the original. I never make a copy of a copy. When I bought my truck. the key that came with it was from Ace hardware and was worn considerably. It did not well in any lock (only when wiggled in the lock) It would not even open the rear glass hatch lock (the most unused lock on the truck) This makes since cause the lock was in practically new condition and the key was worn. The tumblers had not worn out with the key. I was not going to make a copy of that old key. When I got my new keys cut from Nissan it worked perfectly and smoothly in the glass hatch lock. This told me that the key was cut properly and was not going to cause unnecessary wear. This key also work quite well in every other lock on the pathfinder as well. It is much cheaper to replace you key every year then replace the most used lock cylinder when it wears out. especially if you keep an original cut key unused and use it only to make a copies. And getting a key made of a harder metal could cause the tumblers to take all the wear. This is just my take on it. others may have a different opinion. Mark

bolts heads go from the transmission and thread into the starter. If i remember correctly. it has been a while

Interesting! Does the old one and the new one look the same. I did not think the stock starter was a gear reduction. Perhaps it is.

I am guessing from the price difference and that it is smaller, that the vg-33 starter may be a gear reduction starter. Trust me if it is $40 more is well worth it if it is indeed a gear reduction starter. It will use less amps and create less heat when cranking which translates into longer life. Can someone confirm if the vg-33 starter is in fact gear reduction? Mark

There is a little shelf like area under the starter that likes to collect oil when you pull the oil filter off. as you drive this will cause the oil to dribble down the back of the engine. Check to make sure there is not oil collecting there.

Man, I would almost want to try another ECU. Perhaps check the wiring to the ECU

arb lockers and airing up tires after wheeling

here is a photo of the key. It was a curtis brand key.

I could have put mine there but where would I put my compresssor

Here is a pic of the greased Idler Arm with the new Bushings