Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

PATHFINDER95NI

Members
  • Posts

    49
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

PATHFINDER95NI last won the day on May 3 2021

PATHFINDER95NI had the most liked content!

About PATHFINDER95NI

  • Birthday 11/01/1979

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    SE 5SPD 4X4INSTALLED THORLEY HEADERS 4.15.4OTHERWISE STOCK
  • Place of Residence
    DENVER
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    Choose
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Choose
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1995

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Denver

Recent Profile Visitors

2,091 profile views

PATHFINDER95NI's Achievements

NPORA Newbie

NPORA Newbie (1/5)

8

Reputation

  1. Put in a new loaded strut due to wallowed out strut mount that I installed a year ago. I noticed Monroe put the spacer ON TOP of the strut mount. Last year I put the spacer UNDER the mount. Has anybody else made this mistake?
  2. I actually resolved this. It was a combination of lack of grease and some debris blocking the track.
  3. The title pretty much sums this up. Truck has 235k miles. The sunroof was working fine until it didn’t. The motor sounds fine and the rails are well greased and nothing in its way. There’s no binding sounds, it just sounds like it normally would when at the fully open/closed position. I took the motor out to inspect for missing teeth, but there’s just dust and normal looking teeth. After a bit of research it sounds like it might be a position sensor issue. I’ve looked at the reset procedures and they all start with the assumption of the sunroof being fully closed. I cannot for the life of me force the sunroof closed without worrying about shattering the glass. Do you guys have any ideas?
  4. I appreciate the reply guys. I will just be going to the junkyard and swapping seats, see what fits. Ill start w the same year Maxima and go from there. Thanks again!
  5. Gentlemen, I have a 99LE that needs new seats. I’ve looked through the junkyard for a few months and all the seats I find are in the same condition. So that got me to wondering, I wonder if any of Nissan‘s other models seats would fit the Pathfinders? Has anybody tried this? I would think that maybe the Maxima or the Altima would be the best choice, but of course there is the Quest. What do you guys think?
  6. When I swapped an LS into my 95 Suburban, I found a LM7 for $450 at a salvage yard, a harness for $45 on Craigslist, and I already had my tranny so I didnt need that. My Suburban needs yearly smogging and it passed with flying colors. My trick was, I took it in late on a Friday afternoon, one of the last cars to get tested. I figured its friday afternoon, all the seasoned guys are outta there, it should be a breeze. It was. I passed no problem. Of course the new engine tested much cleaner then the old unit, so that helped. The LS will test cleaner then any VG/VQ engine, so I wouldnt be too worried.
  7. Im the same way, Im about as loyal to GM as they are to me. A 302 in a Triumph? Mmmm, an LS w/dry sump sounds better😋 I am going to start a new thread, instead of continuing to hijack the OPs thread. But I did want to share this before I go. It is a couple LS motors sitting next to a VQ motor. The LS motor is indeed a mouse motor when compared to the VQ. Hmm, cant figure out how to post a pic from my phone. Thats ok, its gonna be in my new thread.
  8. Yeah, its terrible. I can take low HP, but the fuel consumption should be inline with the power. I thinking the all aluminum block, the Nissan electric fans, and the 6spd AUTO will help fuel economy get into the 20's with ease. Things like displacement on demand could be a bonus, but Ive heard it can be temperamental. Yeah 16 is my high, in the 5yrs Ive had this, Ive never seen 19mpg. No matter how miserly I drive it. You should take a serious look at it, with a 6spd manual, I think the MPG's could be even higher. The only thing that gives me pause is the rusty strut mounts. Ive taken a look at mine, they look fine. Id have to look into them more in depth before I committed to a swap. Now heres a guy to put an old 350 in an R50. The LS is physically smaller then the 350, so I'm thinking the LS swap is looking more and more feasible. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGhEpa-IfYM
  9. I edited my last post. I meant to put a emoticon at the end of the first sentence. True, GM did fskc up in the past and still to this day. Honestly, I would rather them gone out of business then getting bailed out. But they did hit it out of the park with the LS motor. Power is not the main concern, MPG is at the top of the list. I just cannot stand how bad the 3.3's fuel economy is. Even at 16-19mpg, I'm not happy, especially with the lack of power. I'm thinking with an LS swap and 6spd AUTO, I should be touching 20 in the city maybe 24-26 on the highway. I'm really looking forward to that.
  10. Well opinions are like assholes, everybody has one. Where do you get your info from? Everywhere Ive read, they have praised the reliability of the motor. Post your info, Id like to see what you are referring to.
  11. I appreciate the suggestion, and understand about keeping a Nissan truck all Nissan, but the truth of the matter is the LS motor is the bargain of the two. The aftermarket has wider support and the initial buy in will be much cheaper. I plan on buying a donor truck from Copar for dirt cheap and then parting it out. Not to mention the LS is a much tighter package. Ive seen an LS next to a 3.5, and there is no contest.
  12. Im looking at doing the same. I have a 99 w/a 3.3. The gas mileage of a V8, with the power of a 4cyl. LS is the way Im going. The 3.3 and 3.5 are just terrible engines when you take power and fuel economy into account. The LS is a sweet motor, but shoehorning it in seems daunting. That is until I saw GMs LV3🤔 285hp/310tq, and its shorter then a LS. That and a 4wd 6L80E would be tits. What do you guys think? Brakes would have to be a consideration. I want all OEM equipment. That means scouring the interwebs for info on swaps from Patrols, Xterras, Armada/Pathfinders. Electric fans would be a must, again looking for OEM. Youll be wanting to source Corvette/Camaro accessory brackets, they are quite narrow. There is a plethora of oil pans to choose from. I dont believe this swap will be as expensive and difficult as everyone thinks. Ive done an LS swap before, and in the end it was the engine harness integration that was the most difficult. http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/lv3/
  13. Well the radio in my '99 is giving up the ghost, so I'm looking for a new head unit. I'm looking for OEM, aftermarket is too flashy and too many buttons. How much newer can I install before the harness plugs don't match? Anything? Found this, originally for '05-'07 Fontier/Xterras. The plugs match the 1999 radio. The only problem is the orange backlighting. https://m.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-Xterra-Frontier-Rockford-Fosgate-Radio-6-Disc-Changer-MP3-CD-Player-AUX/172824848018?fits=Year%3A2005%7CMake%3ANissan&epid=566142261&hash=item283d29e692:g:BaMAAMXQaBRRjB~0
  14. I need to replace the hinges on my trucks drivers side front door and hinge pins on the passenger door. Whats the best way to go about this? From what it looks like, and written in this thread, the front fender has to come off? Really? Just to change out the hinges? Is there any other way to go about this? Thanks, Nick
  15. Sorry for being absent so long after asking a question guys but Ive been busy with work and finding a solution for the 'Finder. Well thanks for the all the replies, but I was able to get the key cut after all! Yup, after all the searching high and low I call to order a new drivers door lock cylinder (thats the lock the key was broken in, and now cant be removed) and after talking with the parts person, she tells me to call 1.800.NISSAN1. SO IF ANYONE NEEDS A KEY CUT, JUST CALL 1.800.NISSAN1 AND THEY WILL BE ABLE TO GET YOUR KEY CODE IF YOU HAVE A VIN AND ARE AT THE DEALERSHIP. Thanks again! Nick

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...